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That would be a baby mac with NO cheese at that price. LOL Thanks Kamala

All "new" parts require testing. I know you are in the middle of doing this. Just wanted to state the obvious. All new parts need tested to confirm they are good. Most everything is cloned in "Chyna" (Trump) as we all know. Counterfeit parts are all over the place.

Guy, can you see tiny holes in a black rubber hose? It needs to be pressure tested maybe shooting soapy water at it. "Looking" at most mower parts doesn't cut it for a true test.

Say it again Skippy. (y)

I know these are simple mower engines. Running a super hot plug could lead to pre ignition pings. Probably never happen in a mower engine. Not enough load I would guess. I would stick to the stock heat range and deal with the main jet sizing down from 112. Post up a pic or video of the fouling...

So choking down roughly 50 percent did nothing to smooth her out. That tells me the main jet or circuit might be clogged. Next test, choke it all the way closed like you just did in the last video. You should hear it stumble down in revs. If max choke does not stumble, confirms main circuit is...

Nope. She runs at say 3600 until she needs more fuel/air slash engine load. Governor system opens throttle in attempt to keep revs at 3600. That lever I think you are speaking about is the governor linkage. Take a picture of your carb linkage or video what you are referring to.

Agree. Some carbs offer high altitude mains for less fueling at altitude. In this case we see a variety of sizes.

So oil was perfectly on the FULL mark? Not one bit over full? One side of the stick over the full mark and the other not over FULL? Make sure, for testing, keep both sides of the oil dip stick below the FULL mark. Moral of this is keep her on the FULL mark, nothing more nothing less.

For the most part I agree. Some you can install a different main jet size or a high altitude version of it.

Blue smoke is burnt oil. Black smoke is rich excess fuel.

Looks like oil to me. Threads are covered in oil as well. Look in the thread valleys. How much is the oil over filled? Dump out a few gallons and check oil on flat ground. You know on a Kawi, you park the stick on top of the threads and check oil level. Don't screw it in then check the level...

What is the jet size for high altitudes? I see no mention for an HA main jet. Make sure the needle/seat holds at 7psi. Carb float level? How bad is the fouling? Pictures please.

What is that rye grass? Fine bladed shade grass seems as. That stuff cuts easy but keep the blade sharp. Mow with it. If you really want to nit pick it, bust the carb all the way down. Remove all plastic and rubber slash O-rings and bowl gaskets. Pull all jets and emulsion tubes. Open her all...

From that video, she sounds great. It's only a single cylinder so maybe to you she doesn't sound perfect??? For a Briggs engine I think she is spot on.

That liner as ILEngine was talking about is super fragile. Most around here are just plain rubber hoses lacking the internal lining. I can't find the liner stuff. Even stretching the liner variety over a hose barb for example will stretch it internally and possibly crack the liner. I wish...

Watched your latest video again. Not hearing anything out of the norm for that engine. Maybe the governor spring is bad causing the slight stumble?? Hold your finger on the throttle linkage. See if she smooths out. Or put cardboard over carb inlet giving a slight choke effect. Something has to...

What you need to be talking about is if you have an old gas can, wide open spout type, get rid of it. Water and trash love to pollute you can. Which passes to your mower carb, wondering why we have so many fuel related posts on here. New style cans keep fuel fresher/cleaner.

Octane has ZERO to do with engine cleaning. Let that percolate. The higher the octane "number" is, the SLOWER the fuel burns. Why use higher octane fuel? High compression engines need slower burning fuel to resist knocking. Talking say 10:1 engines and higher compression. Lower octane burns...

Your last video, to me, sounds like the governor spring is/could be fouled up. Sounds like the revs are bouncing around. Hold the throttle plate lever with your finger on top of the carb. See if the revs smooth out. Report back. And don't buy any new parts LOL. Also verify the choke plate is...

What does the flywheel key look like? Take a picture or video of the flywheel key and flywheel.

Stop throwing parts at it. All these new parts require testing. Old parts as well. Test what you have. Keep the credit card in the wallet. Not one time did any of us trying to help you say go buy a new coil. You need air, fuel, spark at the correct time and compression for that engine to run...

5 pages in and I still don't know what engine you have. Lots of talk about 30 minutes old which doesn't mean anything. Could be a twin running on one cyl that dies when you hit the PTO. This has been sitting. Most likely a carb or fuel delivery issue.

Did you download the manual for the mower? Did you call Kobalt telling them your trouble? Ask for a manual? Offer to pay for a manual? Most companies have toll free numbers these days.

Here is what I could pull up to be your carb. Verify this is yours. This might not be 100% accurate in being your carb...

Most old timers would walk the yard, prior to mowing, as to retrieve items like log chains, dog stakes, fence posts, bottles, cars, people, barbed wire, trailer hitches and so on.

See above in red.

You ignored most of my free offerings. Or unaware how to. Should ask if you get stuck. We have no clue if you even cleaned or did anything proper to fix it. Some people say yeah I cleaned the carb. To them, that means sprayed cleaner on the outside of the carb. Inside is what counts. Let's start...

Exactly as Bertsmobile1 said. Trash in the tank, deteriorating fuel lines and plugged filters if yours has one. It all starts at your fuel can. The old type with the open top. Those allow humidity, rain, bugs, dirt, grass, grit and mud dobbers and so on inside. When you fill the mower tank...

Probably never had an initial oil dump. All the break-in metal still floating around. Is this one of those you never have to change the oil on? :ROFLMAO:

For mulching? Most mulchers are standard to low lift. Like Gators for example. Most high lift is for bagging. Unless I missed something. Highly possible LOL. I agree with ILEngine on the wet grass deal. Remember, if you are trying to have a nice looking lawn, mulching just spreads weed...

(y)

I would start at the carb needle hanging open, filling the oil sump. Pull the oil stick and smell for fuel.

This is a Briggs from the supplied pics, not a Kroller. Just stating the obvious. Don't know what it is doing in the Kroller section??

Not direct help but take pics next time so you don't forget. 📸

How many gallons is the oil over filled? Anything over or under the full mark is wrong. Maybe head gasket time.

Musical instrument like the cazoo.

How old was the fuel that was drained out? Last year? Cost is free. You can remove the plug and test for spark by grounding out the plug threads. Do it in a dark'ish room. Cost is free. Pull the kill wire off the coil as Craftsman Garage said. See if she fires off. Cost is free. Do you have...

It's on a tiller. Guess stranger things happen.

You can't have plenty of gas and spark and it not run proper. Unless you have low compression or no air. Pull the air filter for testing only and see how she runs.

Make a youtube video of it so we can see and hear what you are trying to describe.

If you remove during winter, put a Battery Tender on her, she will last 5 plus, agreed. Even those cheap wallymart batteries I've had good luck with.

Stunned that ANYTHING at wally's is that old on the shelf. Weekly ours has the shelves raped clean of groceries. I always check the born on date before buying.

She dead.

Got to ask. What engine speed it all this happening? Are you one of those that idle down and wonder why your battery is dead all the time? Please explain.

Why don't you top off the oil and gas, prior to using the machine, every time you use it?

Right right..........

Look how this the blade is, all the way down. No wonder it broke. Definitely not an Oregon blade LOL.

Tank vent clogged. Bugs, grass, dirt dobbers and grit in the fuel tank. Rubber pieces from tank cap deterioration in tank. All this trash will limit slash block flow from tank. Fuel lines deteriorate from the inside. Replace all lines to carb. Fuel filters plug up. Using an old style gas...