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If it's a remote solenoid, it's often a more accessible connection than at the starter. 2 big wires at solenoid, 1 is battery, 1 is starter.

Solenoid mounted to starter, or separate(remote), I believe.

I think he was asking what should be 1/4" past, piston, or flywheel.

Sounds like the factory wiring diagram may not help a lot. While checking on wiring, it's always a good idea to clean up the battery, solenoid, and starter connections. Good luck.

Get out the voltmeter. Check those fuses, voltage at battery, battery connection at solenoid, wire from ignition to solenoid(key in start), solenoid connection to starter, also key in start position. Are there other fuses? Give us model number of mower and motor, so folks can look up details.

I just saw the fuse in Star Tech's diagram. Check the fuse, and the matching wire at the switch. See if you get 12v there with switch turned to start.

When you get it to crank, where are you connecting at the solenoid? Is it a big wire or a little one? If it's the little one, the solenoid seems to be working, and you need to look at the wiring to and from the ignition switch. Check fuses, there is one in the ignition circuit. If connecting...

It worked yesterday. It does sound just like something banging into sheet metal to me, which is why I said to check blades, though you're right it could be the shroud. It's worth looking at that also.

So, you say the key went dead. Is there no sound at all when you turn it to start? You say battery is good, how did you test? When is the last time the battery/solenoid/starter wires connections were cleaned? That usually causes slow cranking, but is worth doing any time you're wondering if...

Rivets has a point, but I've had pretty good luck pulling the bowl, cleaning float needle and seat, blowing carb cleaner through the seat, and cleaning the main jet, passages through the bowl bolt, and the passage above it. There are other passages, but that gets the main route mostly open...

Do you have a voltmeter? Measure voltage engine off, then start, and measure again at full throttle. Measure voltage with blades engaged. Voltage should go up after starting. Engaging PTO will bring it down, but how much it does should let you know if it's a voltage problem. Have you...

I agree that the cap has to engage with the cutout you show. This type of dipstick doesn't usually screw down into the shaft, the tabs on the cap grab the lip when you turn it. It may pull down just a little bit, but not like the ones that are threaded and actually screw in.

Have you checked the blade? Is it bent? Does it seem to be scraping anywhere?

I'm not familiar with your spark tester. I would check for spark directly. Pull the plug, hook it up, ground it, and crank the motor. Do this in the shade, and see how it sparks. I would test starting with throttle at idle also. Choke on, prime, pull several times, then choke 1/2 pull more...

Good call Davy. Collector, can you check for blockage? Thanks Star Tech. I'm thinking this is one of the ones ilengine was talking about with no seal. I'd hate for him to hammer on that bushing till it broke something else.

The diagrams show the bushing outside the case, not recessed. The pic of poster's engine shows that also, but probably not fully seated, with the bushing almost to the hole in the shaft for the cross pin. It does look like this shipped without the seal.

Wasn't someone recently saying NGK stands for No Good Kind?

Did you check fuel flow? Pull fuel line at carb and check for free flow. If there's a fuel pump, crank the motor to check. If fuel flow is good, carry on with ignition checks/wiring. Hopefully someone can speak up about flywheel/coil questions.

It sounds to me like it's pressed in from the outside, so may need to be pressed out from the inside. Looking back at the instructions, it says to ream the bushing. Maybe that's what makes room for the seal? What does the seal look like?

What is manufacturer and model?

I just had this with a Husqvarna trimmer. It has a spring in the start pulley that was slipping out of it's hole, and it chewed up the pulley. I had to replace the spring(it broke) and the pulley. I pulled up a couple parts diagrams, but they have no details on the starter. Parts tree shows...

Bootheal, it's best to start your own thread, it's less confusing. We'll need your mower and engine ID, so people can look up wiring diagrams etc. However, on some machines, if you lock the brake switch in the brake applied setting(so it starts) it kills the motor if you engage PTO, since you...

From what StarTech posted, it looks like the bushing is supposed to come out about 1/16. How does that compare to what you see? Could you fit a gasket, if the seal is too thick? From your pic, there isn't much between the bushing and the hole for the clip.

Thanks Ilengine. So Packard, measure the resistance of the clutch. At 1 ohm, it'll draw over 12 amps, 2 ohms 6 amps, roughly. It depends on the voltage with engine running.

What should the resistance of the clutch be, or is it specific to engine type?

Yes.

The pulse line is the 3rd line to the fuel pump. One to tank, one to carb, and one to engine, to supply pressure pulses from the engine to the pump.

can you grab it? Can you move it? I would try a socket, but be very gentle. I wonder if someone installed the wrong bushing. should he try and seat the bushing? Maybe with a deep well socket?

I think that's what he was asking about doing with a punch. Is that right Collector?

Ok then. Compression or leakdown test then.

The big red wire from the starter goes to one of the big terminals on the solenoid. Where does the red wire go?

I know you pulled the valve covers, did you adjust the valves?

You said fuel was present, but how does it flow? If there's a fuel pump, pull the line from tank to pump and see how it flows. Hook that back up, take it off the carb, crank the engine and see how it flows. If both are good, move on to carb, if not, fuel tank could be dirty, or fuel pump not...

I think he's saying the brass is a bushing, not the seal.

Thanks Forest. By the way, this is one of my favorite online resources for this stuff. It's great to get info from someone you can interact with.

I have friends who are gunsmiths, and they bag parts going into the ultrasonic cleaner, so only the solution in the bag gets dirty, so they are throwing away less degreaser. I've got big ziplocks, is it worth doing with small engine carbs?

I'd try jetting it. It sounds like you looked into the reviews. Good luck.

So, you have good fuel flow at carb, and have replaced the pulse line. As ILengine was saying, it could be the amazon carb You said no adjustments. How did you pick the carb? Did it have many reviews? That's one of the things I check, I don't want to buy it if it only shows a small number...

Welcome!

When you were testing, did you have fuel lines disconnected, so you could see the flow?

I left off the pulse line. Definitely check that for cracks/leaks, and a good connect at the motor end.

You've replaced a bunch of fuel lines and stuff, have you tested the fuel flow? Disconnect line at carb, crank engine, see how fuel flows. Disconnect from pump, see how that flows by gravity. The fuel pickup could be clogged and restricting flow. If you remove gas cap and shine a flashlight...

Double check belt routing, idler pulley and spring. Check hydro fluid.

Another thing to check, is jumper from battery terminal to starter terminal on solenoid. That will help determine if it's in the switching or the battery. Definitely check all the safety switches.

What you said was that it did not turn over. You charged overnight and it started. It would not start later. A few minutes is not enough to recover from starting. If it tries to turn, but does not, it is often insufficient power to the starter. If nothing happens, or just a click when you...

How old is the battery? When you started it, how long did you run the motor? Most likely, the battery is dying, but it could be some circuit isn't shutting down, and is draining it, or charging system. Measure voltage at battery. Charge the battery, then measure voltage again, should be...

Good news! Thanks for the update.

Give model and serial number. One tip is seat switch. Is the problem that the PTO clutch does not engage when you switch it on?

You probably need to adjust the governor. This is the first video I found. I just searched kohler PH-XT-149-0226 governor adjust. The governor uses a centrifugal device to rotate a shaft as the engine speeds up. The shaft comes out of the engine, and hooks to the throttle. It has to be...

If that's the factory carb, replacing needle/seat/seals avoids issues with questionable clone carbs. However, carbs are available, and I've had pretty good luck with them, even Amazon. From Amazon, I look at the reviews. I want to see mostly good reviews, and hundreds of them. I don't want...