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Spec no. KT 745-3031 I pulled both Kill wires off and tried , found no spark , One of the plug wires was cut nearly in two , it appeared that side has not been firing off for some time b/c the plug was carboned up bad - I think this guy was running on one cylinder for quite a long time then the...

Well it's definatly fuel so go back through the carb and start over with cleaning etc.

Kohler KT 745 Serial no. 4506209833

No fire from the coils , pulled the ground wire off , cleaned and re set the gap on flywheel. It's odd but looks as if both coils failed , can't imagine what else it could be, Any ideas anyone ? Thanks

Look at the wiring for the PTO , from your description it dies as soon as you engage the clutch, Pull the plug off the pto and engage it again , if it kills the machine there is a short to ground from that switch and not the PTO assembly. If it kills the machine start chasing wires and see where...

Pull the seal and get a number off it

12 volts to key switch - from there go to the small terminal on your solenoid, battery cable to large terminal on solenoid, other side of the solenoid ( large terminal ) to starter lug. you'll need voltage supply to your voltage regulator from your key ( on ) position - the Off position on the...

I only try and help and think I usually do. Anyone posting here for help will take advise for what it's worth. I have no access to technical manuals etc. Only from experience. No need to bad mouth anyone here.

I know it's a new carb but sounds like it has a port that may be dirty , your tank might have trash in it

No downside to anything you've done, It may happen again since it's been bent once already.

Make sure it's not your clutch clicking on b/c your blade switch is in the on position , it will not let you start.

Make sure your air filter is clean or not stopped up with dirt, there may be an adjustment screw on that carb , most don't these days. Guessing you have clean gas , that E85 stuff can make it run rough . Might take the carb off and clean it up real good

99% it's Counter clock wise to brake it out , never saw one that is left handed thread

Woodruff key's are there mainly to protect your engine drive assemlby, Why yours they usually shear when you hit something solid and keeps you from bending a shaft or other damage. If it happens again you'll need to dig further to find out why

Sounds like it's still dirty, but carbs are pretty cheap so go for it I say

There are seals and bearings in that gear box , It's a pain to rebuild but I've done a few, Be real careful when tearing into it - there are shims and gears and bearings that need to come off the drive and driven shafts and need to be re assembled in a certain order.

You probably have a jet plugged in the carb, pull the needle valve and the seat , there is a jet under there that has very small holes , easily plug with small particles , you should be able to see through every hole when you hold up to the light.

You can lap the valves with a little lapping compound, How does the compression stack up other than leak down ? Carbon can score the cylinders and is very abrasive , side to side indicates worn valve guides and can be a cause for smoke / low compression lack of power etc.

If you got good compression and fire , that leaves only fuel as the problem, Timing is not an issue since it runs on one cylinder so concentrate on fuel delivery.

EV world aint all it's cracked up to be , Everyone going to be disappointed in my opinion

Depends on the type of meter you have , some sense a pulse from the magneto and read then , if it requires 12 volts then it should read as such when the key is in the On position I installed one on my outboard and if I remember right there weren't any wires to hook up it just picked up a signal...

Pull the wires off at the connection , check both to ground - only one should read ground , engage the switch and see if you have 12 volts on the other wire , if test passes , re connect and engage the switch and listen to the PTO , it should click and engage.

I swapped on a while back and just changed the pully out along with it, had to get a different drive belt because the different pully was not the same diameter. I've seen sleeves from the factory to fit up the clutch / drive assembly before so someone makes them

I think you got about all you goin to get out of that battery. Upgrade will not hurt though

If the needle and seat are holding , it will only allow so much fuel into the bowl, I've used electric fuel pumps on these guys with no problems as to fuel pressure being too high etc. To my way of thinking only the carb or it's settings would make it run too rich, not sure there are any...

Has this happened all of a sudden or a gradual thing ? Is it smoking Black / blue / white ?

Paint my fence with it

Right Huskavara , don't know how to spell it

i've used bad boy mowers for a long time without any issues kuskys have a good Track record as well , I usually stick to Kohler or Kawasaki motors - Not a big fan of Kubota just because they're hard to work on in my opinion , Also stay away from Key pad touch control machines they're trouble .

Don't give up on this forum there are a lot of smart guys here and give good advise, you're problem is unique in that it does not add up logically but Lots of times this happens, my mind set is to keep an open mind when trouble shooting a problem. ( like you installed a new plug but the new...

Stick a straight rod like a coat hanger or welding rod through the plug hole and feel where the piston is , if you can roll the flywheel while doing it you can watch the piston position by seeing the rod go up and down

While it's locked as you say , pull your plug and use a straight rod and see what position the piston is in, Curious if it's BTC or TDC.

Can you feel any compression when the plug is out and you pull the cord ? This will expose a lot

Could be a starter issue

Woodruff keys stick out just like other keys , if it's not then it's sheared

Hard to say at this point but I'd still bet on a fuel / carb problem

How long since it turned over ? Check battery voltage first - at the battery terminals , if 12 volts there , look at the solenoid terminal , should have 12 volts on one side even without the key turned on, if voltage present there , turn key to Start and listen for any clicking noise at the...

Is the governor spring and linkage free or possibly sticking ?

Yeah , I use a clean hose to blow through to keep gas outa my mouth, you'll know right away if it's a bad seat. Seems cheaper these days to change the whole carb rather than a repair kit.

I've done it lots of times it's a good initial test - never went any further with pressure gauges etc. but sure it's a more accurate test.

Try an electric fuel pump and bypass your tank run it straight from a clean fuel source and see what happens

Remove the carb, turn upside down and blow into the fuel port , if you can't blow through it the needle and seat are ok, When you turn it right side up you should be able to blow through it , this will eliminate the needle / seat or tell if they're bad

Will need to be very patient both drilling and tapping this out. Use plenty of lube during both , no down side really because it's basically junk now anyway.

Your shaft can take the next size , get a Drill bit and tap to go one size up and have at it, ( it's not working now so there is no down side) I'm pretty sure it's a fine thread bolt If it was 3/8 - go to 7/16" the same depth , use a bottom tap for the final depth

If you need to jump it there is something wrong

I ran across something like this with a similar machine, took it completely apart and didn't find anything wrong, Found that it gets in a position at the crank angle and binds up, Forced it past that angle and started up and ran fine. Pull the plug and stick a long skinny rod on top of the...

Lots of knowledge on this site , welcome

Pull and clean the carb and all components of the fuel system , hoses , filters , tank etc. then retry

Never liked Craftsman mowers etc. but that's just me , never saw a plastic transmission but guessing it's up to spec.

You'll need to pull the cable off completely, Pull it tight around a round surface back and forth to break up the rust inside the cable sheath - you should be able to free up the inner cable and lube it up with some penetrant and or grease.