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Carb spray. When it starts acting up, carefully spray the seam and the ends at the head.

In the video it sounded like it was either starving for fuel or getting air it shouldn't be getting. Either way it seemed lean to me. But that's just one opinion. If that engine has a plastic intake manifold, they have been known to separate at the seam and also leak at the o-rings where it...

Okay good. When it goes to die, will giving it a bit of choke help at all?

Pull the tube that goes from the rocker cover to the fuel pump. Is there any evidence of fuel in that tube?

When it's warm and acting up like in the video, how does the engine run if you just let go of the levers and sit still? And if it seems to straighten out while sitting still what does the engine do if you move the throttle to idle?

Yes. Sometimes just a little load can show that it's not working correctly.

Yes I think that is very possible. The blower housing will need to come off to know for sure but the nice thing is the housing holes are slotted so those screws wouldn't have to be completely removed.

Sounds like the starter solenoid is what is making the noise. Can you have someone else turn the key and you put your hand on the starter and feel if it's doing anything?

Awesome.

Ah yes, I see where I read right past that in more than one spot even. I saw regulator in most of the posts so I made the wrong assumption that it was a regulator. Okay so it's a rectifier and yes, as mentioned unlike a regulator it would not need battery voltage to excite it. My next...

Cold. And depending on what you mean by start easier adjusting the valves may make no difference.

The stator is putting out as it should and you've replace the regulator so you should be able to eliminate those two things as well as the flywheel magnets. Is the 6-7 vdc output voltage being checked with everything connected as it would normally be? If so, you should have at least battery...

30560A would be the coil number if it has points and condenser. If it's solid state, which the Sears website shows it to be, the part number is 34443D.

The thing to remember is the Courage single cylinder was the dog. The unfortunately same named Courage twin was a very good engine and was in many ways simply a Command twin with solid lifters.

Just to clarify if I may, the issue with the loose bolts was on only Courage single cylinder engines where there was no removable oil pan and you got to the inside of the engine by removing the top closure cover of the engine. Those did indeed have some loose fastener issues. Ooops... Just...

The only thing Kohler really ever recommended after going to full pressure lubed engines with oil filters was several years ago when they were seeing some flat cam lobes on their Command engines. That really has nothing to do with your 7000 series but a lot of techs started doing this break in...

Okay this is going to be a bit of a long reply but before you go wasting a bunch of time with a lot of tests that may or may not be needed, waste a little time here reading. First, do as Bert mentioned. If you can find a way to do it, gravity feed fuel directly to the carburetor from an...

Yeah they're not all the same. On the Kohler OEM pumps there is an arrow showing the direction of the fuel flow. Not all aftermarket ones have the arrow. One flows right to left and the other flows left to right. I don't remember exactly why they had the different directions but I think it had...

At this point I don't believe you can hurt anything by running it but if that upper bearing is indeed galled it will most likely seize again. But who knows? It might run fine for a long time. I have also seen some 7000 series engines wear the upper main to the point of the hole being oval and...

I'm guessing here but it's a guess from experience. The engine more than likely seized at that flywheel side bearing and some galling there is keeping the crankshaft from coming out. If that's the case the block is toast and there is no fixing that. I had some guys that were able to take a small...

After it dies will it start right back up?

I've dealt with quite a few Kohler engines that had been driven into lakes and ponds and I've never seen one bent connecting rod let alone two. That's really bizarre to me. The ones I really loved were the people who wanted warranty on the engine because they drove the equipment into the water...

The hours you put on your unit in 20 years would probably be about the average number of hours a commercial cutter puts on in one year. Less in the northern states and more in the southern states but 600 hours would be a pretty fair average. These guys are spending $8000 to $12000 for a piece of...

I did spend the better part of 27 years giving factory Kohler training to Kohler dealers but I don't think there was a class I taught that I didn't learn something from a tech in attendance. The troubling thing is that after being retired for just 18 months, stuff that used to just come off the...

If you squeeze it with your thumb and forefinger your usually can feel where it's just hose. The restrictor might even show up as a bump in the hose and is brass so it won't crush all that easily. If you squeeze the hose with a needle nose slowly you'll know if you hit it. I think squeezing off...

Well, we can’t all know everything which is what is nice about forums with a lot of members. If you do find pinching off that hose stops the rich running here is the part Kohler part number for the mysterious accelerator pump kit. 24 757 21-S KIT, ACC PUMP W/GASKETS This...

On the side of the carb do you see one or two small rubber tubes going to a cover plate held on by 3 screws? That's the accelerator pump cover. Carefully pinch off one of those tubes. I say carefully because there is a metal restrictor in one of them and you don't want to crush it when you pinch...

All the Command twins from 18 to 28 HP use the same governor gear which is part number 24 043 12-S. And to expand a bit on what chipg posted. For engines with a compression release, the leak down test is really the best test and many engines do use a compression release. For your engine a...

You'll find the engine model and spec number laser etched in the engine block just behind the fuel tank mounting bracket. The best way to get the part number for a replacement carb is to go by the number on the original carb which should be 14 053 and two more digits. Say you look at your...

An engine that was completely worn out, meaning it would need bored, oversized pistons, undersized rods, valve guides reamed and oversized valves and probably a new carb would definitely not be worth rebuilding. I would add that depending on how the engine is cared for and maintained and...

Unplug the stator and check for continuity at the diode in the charging lead at the stator. You may have to peel back some heat shrink to get to it. Put the red lead of your meter on one side of the diode and the black lead of your meter on the other side and check for continuity. Then reverse...

No

I don't know if you're still struggling with this or not but it sounds like you've determined you have an unregulated dual circuit system. If that is the case then it is working as designed and you're trying to fix something that isn't broken. The only thing that will cause over charging in a...

When you say you bypassed the carb shutoff are you meaning the solenoid on the carb?

At this point. Yes they are.

LOL...save your fingers. It's a lost cause.

I do. Do you? True Not true. Somewhat true. Not true. Sorry, but ILENGINE is 100% correct. Your response was however, quite entertaining.

Something I meant to mention in my previous post is, if you think the solenoid isn't working, before you condemn or even remove it make sure you are getting power to it and it's got a good ground. If you had a lamp in your living room that wouldn't work, putting a new light bulb in it won't...

Umm, I'm no electrical engineer and maybe I'm misreading this but won't directly grounding a power wire do nothing but create a short circuit and blow the fuse? Hopefully? And if they've messed with wiring and for some silly reason bypassed the fuse this could be a good recipe for a fire.

Green on Kohler goes to the oil pressure switch.

Although not directly mentioned, doing the voltage tests I recommended would check both the solenoid and the key switch or at least could lead toward the key switch or possibly a lack of voltage getting to the key switch.

I would check for voltage drop and or a ground issue to start. It only takes a couple of minutes once you have your voltmeter in hand. MTD uses fairly small gauge battery and ground cables and they have been know to cause issues especially when coupled with this engine. I posted the procedure I...

Asked and answered but I'm bored so 177th day of 2012 FWIW

This may be like starting over but take a few minutes and do a couple of simple voltage checks. With the key in the off position start by taking a voltage reading I call “Across The Battery”. Black lead on the negative battery terminal and red lead on positive terminal. Duh, right? This will...

You can if the ignition coil is outside the flywheel. If the ignition coil is under the flywheel then no.

Maybe a bit late to this party on this one but, try cranking the engine with the spark plugs in and the spark plug wires off. You'll still be cranking under full compression but it will take the ignition out of the equation. If it cranks fine with the plug wires removed, your starter and the...

The reason I asked is, if the lifter was out of the lifter galley when you removed it, it probably caused a burr that will need to be removed before you can get it back in. If you took it right out of it's galley there shouldn't be a burr. They normally aren't too difficult to install. Are you...

Can you give a little history on why the lifter is out? Humor me for a minute. It's a legit question.

I too am curious what the dealer finds. And something that just hit me. It was already at the dealer so it wouldn't have really mattered, but out of all of our responses none of us mentioned checking the fuse unless someone did and I missed it. Not sure why it would be blown but unless it gets...

When you jumped the solenoid what exactly did you jump and did you have the key turned to on? If not, that wouldn't explain why it won't turn over using the key but it could be why you don't smell fuel or have spark when you jumped the solenoid.