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Go here and put in your model number. https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/blades?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=12055120738&gbraid=0AAAAAC6cT8LPLXVPf6vy4PX7llWdPOblg&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrs7RBhDuARIsAIVfBD29TEiyGspNDFNXpAOJDYZUB-m-9_8NdB0SS3GFrYixlHo0Cn0WlgQaAtQ5EALw_wcB&scroll=1

Don't waste your money. Mulching only works half decent on fall leaves.

Using a lawn mower as a brush cutter.

I think that you have your answer. The nut is the one operating the levers. No consequences for ragging out an expensive machine. A person who pays for a mower and the repairs is going to take better care of it.

If it's losing that much oil, it's going somewhere. Either it's going out of the tailpipe or it's leaking. It's probably both with that many hours. If there's a bunch of gunk around the PTO clutch, it's a crank seal.

Diesel or kerosene was in the tank. Always use a yellow can for diesel. But, we all make mistakes when in a hurry. My latest mistake was spraying Roundup instead of insecticide. In a hurry, I grabbed the wrong sprayer. Yet, both sprayers are clearly marked. 🫪

My three acres is former pasture. I run a Gravely Pro Turn 260. It was a lot of trial and error to get my deck and blade setup just right. My problem was getting a good throw on the clippings. I imagine that our climate is similar. I have a mixture of Bermuda, Bahai, Centipede, and St. Augustine.

I did find these. https://igoprolawnsupply.com/products/48-mower-low-lift-blade-16-1-4-long-5-8-hole-hardened-steel

I just looked on Oregon's website. There is no listing low lift blades in 16.25 length with a 5/8" center hole. I've gotten the same results on Stens website and Rotary's website.

I wouldn't call the OEM Gravely blades high lift. They are more like standard lift or medium lift. Maybe, the OEM style mulching blades would work for you. I'll look around and see what I can find on a true low lift blade.

The actual tool isn't that expensive. Add a battery and charger, the total price more than doubles. Low IQ politicians have no business mandating such foolishness. Do they even think about the disposal of all of those spent batteries?

Ah! You live in Commiefornia.

Yep, Kawasaki FR-651-V. Here's the parts manual. https://apache.ariens.com/manuals/04082600.pdf

The owners manual does list a Kawasaki engine as an original power plant. However, that could vary due to supply issues.

👍🏻 It's a ZT50. It was probably made around 2009. It's a residential model https://apache.ariens.com/manuals/03989300A_ENG.pdf

Problem solved? Maybe not. He hit a rock with a nearly new mower. I expect there is damage to the spindle, blade bolt, blade, and possibly the top of the deck where the spindle mounts. A thorough inspection is needed, first.

The entry level residential battery powered trimmers, of any brand, aren't that great. They are disposable. There isn't a whole lot of manufacturer support. I've had experience with the corded models and they were horrible. There probably hasn't been much change in performance since the switch...

Hydro-Gear EZT drive units.

That's high hours and your compression is not in the desired range. Also, the oil pump could have failed. You should probably start weighing your options. That engine is tired.

For homeowners and up-start commercial guy, the Echo SRM-225 or Stihl FS-56 CE is the way to go. I've had both. I just trashed my 10 year old SRM-225. I replaced it with the Stihl. I prefer the Echo. It was a better balanced machine. Power is about the same on both. The old Echo was just tired...

That hose is the vacuum line to the fuel pump. It must be in good shape for the pump to deliver fuel to the carburetor. Replace with a new hose. You will need to get it at your local OPE dealer. You will need the engine brand, engine model number, and engine serial number for the correct hose.

I like to use Kohler air filters and fuel filters on my Kohler powered unit. Running a business, it's best to use OEM stuff on units serviced for paying customers.

Oil filters: Advance Auto Parts, NAPA, and O'Reilly Auto Parts. Hydraulic filters and air filters can be sourced from local OPE dealers or online. It's best to use OEM, Stens, or Rotary. Blades: OEM, Stens, Rotary, or Oregon. Online or local dealer. Rotary blades are a good quality product at...

Jack up your mower. Remove the deck belt. Turn the questionable blade end to end with the adjacent blade. Are the ends of each level? Grab the effected blade and try to move it up and down. Is there any play or wobble? Remove the effected blade. Does the spindles appear to be out of whack?

🤣🤣🤣

Most use 1/4×20×3/4 bolts with matching nuts. If your terminals need replacement, do so. https://www.mfgsupply.com/mower/mowerbatteriesetc/mowerbatteriescables.html

I think that you are right. Also, the deck mat be bent where the spindles mounts.

Bad Boy Maverick or Bad Boy Maverick HD. For that acreage, a 52" or 54" deck would be best.

I run them at the lowest recommended air pressure. I often wonder if the rough terrain was the reason the plastic end of the choke shaft broke?

A lawn with lots of bumps and uneven terrain can cause problems with electrical connections and various plastic components of a mower. I'm convinced that this is what caused an electrical connection to fail on my Gravely Pro Turn 260. The bullet type connector broke and caused my engine to shut...

My Gravely (Kohler ZT740-3046) has nearly 400 hours on it and I have had the engine shroud off twice. It's really clean around the cooling fins. My secret is to blow off the entire machine, with a leaf blower, after mowing. If you have compressed air, that's even better.

Get you a piece of dowel rod and stick the tank. Old school.

Already repaired. If the repair fails, I will do something different. It is a booger getting the rear bumper assembly off and back on again. Besides, the connections are underneath the engine shroud and don't get exposed to moisture.

Work them! They will get better.

I hope so. I should have taken a picture. I was just before pulling the solenoid when I discovered the broken connector. That's why the engine wanted to fire but never did. This is the type of connector that was broken.

I was mowing today on my Gravely Pro Turn 260. I thought that it was out of gas. I added gas to the other tank and tried to start it. It would try to start but never did. I had to tow it to my shop. I pulled the fuel line after the pump and it was pumping fuel. I already knew that I woul have to...

Yep! If the problem repeats, he will have to remove the tank and clean it out thoroughly. The mower probably still has the original fuel lines.

Will it run on carb cleaner or starting fluid? Remove the fuel line between the fuel pump and carburetor and see if fuel is exiting the fuel pump. Take a look at the pulse line. This line runs from the bottom of the fuel pump to the engine. It should be connected and in good shape. There's an...

You might have water in the fuel.

Too much oil. The GVC190 capacity is a little over 16 Oz (pint).

The blade bolts on my Pro Turn 260 come off fairly easy. It came with the concave (Belleville) type washers. My 1/2" Dewalt 20vMax impact rips them right off. I did apply a very small amount of anti-sieze after the initial blade change. I haven't put any more on them. There's really no need, I...

5/8" grade 8 fine thread will take anywhere from 180 ft.lb. to 240 ft.lb. depending on whether it's lubricated, zinc plated or dry. They will take 110 ft.lb. easily. I certainly wouldn't use a grade 5 bolt for blades. Gravely uses grade 8 bolts.

NO! They are excellent filters. Just make sure that you install it with the arrow pointing towards the carburetor.

This happens sometimes when a 1/4" fuel line is forced over a 5/16" nipple. This is the fuel filter that I recommend. https://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-24-050-10-s/

https://www.partstree.com/models/stcii-48v-23cv-scag-tiger-cat-ii-48-zero-turn-mower-23hp-kohler-sn-l8900001-l8999999/48v-52v-cutter-decks-0/ The engine is not original to the mower. The engine that's currently on the machine is for a Hustler or Big Dog. The crankshaft on the current engine may...

Check the Kubota engine manual that came with your mower. It's a diesel so, it's going to require a diesel engine oil. A 5W30 automotive oil ain't going to cut it. Diesel engines see quite a bit of soot in the oil. An oil blended for diesel engines is going to be required.

That doesn't look right at all. You will need your model number and serial number. You can find the owners manual here. https://www.scag.com/resources/

It's definitely an improvement over the original setup.

I don't know if the color is off with the picture or not. That looks like blue smoke. If that's blue smoke, you have an oil burner. Seeing that's a FR engine and the amount of dust on it and inside the filter box, you might have a big problem.

Spray some WD-40 around the base of your carburetor and intake. You will be doing this with the engine running. Do you notice any change? A malfunctioning governor is another possibility.