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Best way to remove carbon is heat. Meaning temperature heat here. Not the gimmick in a bottle to remove water in the gas tank. Just like cleaning your oven in the kitchen. If you bake something and turn the oven off, immediately start cleaning with soap and water. The food comes off much...

Carb float height excessive?

Ok so most everything mechanical sounds like it's working as normal. Dump the gas and try some fresh E-0 unleaded juice. Wonder if someone, has been in the carb with a welding torch tip cleaner enlarging the main jet/s? Choke staying wide open once warm?

Are they resistor plugs? What is the resistance measurement through the plugs? Run some non resistor plugs. I try to cross over non resistors for all my OPE. How large of a gap will the coil fire? Fouling plugs can be weak spark. How about cam timing at the cam gear? Far as the muffler...

Back slamming out of the carb is improper ignition timing, super lean air/fuel mix, valves out of spec or weak spark.

Just so we all know, a circuit with no amperage flow shows a drastic difference (voltage drop) compared to a loaded to the fuse rated one. IF there are issues on said circuit that is.

Not for nuth in' but most every push mower has one. When you let go of the dead man lever, the brake pad stops the flywheel.

Check the valves or most likely carb needle flooding the cylinder. Pull the oil dip stick and smell for gasoline. If you smell gas, fix the carb first then dump the oil a few times. Do NOT try and run it with gasoline diluted oil. It will trash the engine. Or you have tall grass chaff...

Summation, all circuits require LOAD testing. Totally agree. As in a 10 amp circuit needs 10 amps for a full health check on said circuit.

Check the main ground and the ground to the EFI module. Those EFI boxes are picky about proper power and grounds. STOP replacing parts until you get it running. Every new part you buy REQUIRES testing. New doesn't mean new these days. Should be nothing wrong with a fuel filter at 32 hours...

Hope the fuel filter caught the debris you blew out.

He probably had the key ON when he connected the battery cables. Little spark jumped a bit. Maybe he has headlights that come on with the key???? Or the solenoid is shorted closed slash welded from amperage strikes when the key goes to start??? OP doesn't know what a solenoid is. Probably...

No.

Pull the starter and bench test it. LISTEN to the starter turn over. Should sound plenty strong.

To me this is a slow cranker. Check the main ground at both ends. Clean down to bare metal. Use grounding washers. This had a new battery and starter/solenoid right?

Did this ever get fixed? What was the fix action if so?

Did this ever get fixed? What was the fix action if so?

Pull the kill wire off the ignition coil. IF the coil is good, should drain the fuel tank dry. Unless you have a fuel issue that is.

THIS is the first thing to check. Fix the carb then dump the oil and filter a couple times. Looking is not a true test of the needle to seat seal. Needs pressure tested just like the needle and seat are ran under gravity pressure in normal ops. You can adjust plastic floats. If you are careful...

As in PRIOR to EVERY mow.

Need to ask why the push rods got bent.

Your stream is not working.

I know on some engines like Briggs, if you pull the top shroud off to clean the cooling fins, that top metal shroud might not be installed correctly. There is a flap cover deal that directs cooling air that the top shroud needs to fit over the tab deal to hold this flap proper. If installed...

Come on guys. SOMEONE HAS TO recommend the old 20W-50 oil trick about now....... Sounds like blade to deck interference. If it IS a rod, man that sucker is ready to let go. Definitely a metallic sound.

Just stop voting. Not like any of then do what they promise anyway. Well Trump did in his first term. His current term, completely different. Not a fan of what he is doing now. IMO two parties do not work these days. If I was in charge there would be ONE party only. Called the AMERICAN party...

Doubt a trans needs any zinc at all. Most oils have similar zinc levels these days. Not like one brand has a considerable amount over brand Y.

Sounds like it lacks enough compression to fire. What does YOUR engine manual state for minimum compression on THAT engine?

First thing to check is tire pressure. Then level the deck per your mower manual.

yes. In OKC, Zoysia takes at least, double the water compared to Bermuda the world standard warm season grass. I have the Mayer blend of Zoysia. It is ultra dense and chokes weeds and everything else out. But you got to lay the water out on her. If you can afford the water bill in the summer...

THAT is a great mower. Not the best engine in town but will mow more grass than Willie Nelson has smoked. Nice find for a hondo. Toro needs to bring those back.

Water works too looking for vacuum leaks. No need to "pay" for any caustic chemicals to look for leaks. Little pump spay bottle and start pumping. Here's another one. Stop buying brake cleaner. Use foaming glass cleaner. About half the price per can over brake cleaner. Compare the skull and...

Does your manual not have lube instructions in it?

For lawn mowers and outdoor power equipment, most have mower numbers and engine numbers. Mower manufacturers do not make the engines they put on said equipment. So the mower will have numbers like serial and model as well as the engine will have some form of numbers on it.

What RPM is it not charging at? Do you run the mower around the yard at idle speed saving gas?

If you are in Europe, oil that states synthetic is real 100% synthetic. They have laws on it. Only in some ridiculous American court can purple be called orange LEGALLY. LOL So beware when you buy your next oil.

Carb float height.

"AI Overview Mobil 1 is not a pure Group IV (PAO) or Group V oil; rather, it is a proprietary blend of base stocks that typically includes Group III (hydrocracked conventional oil), Group IV (PAO), and Group V (esters/alkylated naphthalenes)." "Is it a "True" Synthetic? The Legal/Industry...

Thanks for the picture. Helps us help you. Thinking pics must be mandatory like engine numbers to assist the OP. Videos too are great helpers.

Those China clones of the Walbro are good. Ran several that were perfect out of the box.

AND the tank caps are probably worn out leaking fuel all over your garden veggies. Agree with the others. Carb is internally clogged. Dead fuel pump and internal passages on the jet not flowing. Definitely wants more fuel to run.

If you suspect metallic or other contamination, the lines and cooler must be replaced. Probably full of air causing cavitation heating up the oil.

3.5" on fescue is a little low in my book under normal growing conditions. On fescue I crank the deck as high as it will go. Especially when winter is on the way. You still cut in winter right? If so all the way up. Taller turf gathers more light to grow. Fescue is always taller than other grass...

Probably driving around at idle speed trying to save gas. Not enough RPM's to charge the battery up. Check engine speed at full mower ground speed and blades on.

Why not level the yard out with either sand or rich mix top soil? Then EVERY mower you buy later will be a soft rider.

Good tip. Maybe lacks enough push to run.

Bet the blades are on upside down? o_O I too would love to see some deck pictures posted here so we can help.

Take that rubber plastic drain line off and put a plug where it was. Use an evac pump which there are many kinds and prices. Use the same pump on your car, truck and motorcycles too.

But he is saving sooo much money........ Why buy the proper part that came on it that lasted this long? LOL JOKE!!!!

Better be brass or softer bristles on that wire wheel. Going to remove a lot of material if not.

I would be mowing up an down the hill and not across if I could.