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normally on a gear like that, I would use a wire brush on a drill to go round and round the shaft so there is no rust. Then I would use a bearing plate under the gear and a puller on that. Make sure there is no pin or set screw on it.

take your time and don't fire the parts cannon without going thru the things that have been mentioned.

what brand plugs and where did you get them? When is the last time the valves were adjusted? What you are describing can have many causes. Basically you have a problem either with ignition, compression or mixture. If the ignition fails on one cylinder, say a bad counterfeit plug you got on...

check pulleys for play, check trans and engine mounts, check the tension spring, and frame for cracks that allow it to overly flex. Since it seems to be happening when you stop etc., that would be the moment the engine, transmission and frame flex the most.

yes it does. It significantly changes pulley spacing, and tension on the belt as it wears. watch

even at 60 psi it should run some. Pull the plug out, crank it over a few times and let it sit ten minutes. Might be flooded with a wet or fouled spark plug.

I don't know all the different models. That said, any model with a brake shoe that rests against a pulley has a change in belt geometry when the brake wears. If this model has such, then check it. If it does not, ignore this as a possibility. That said, below is a diagram of that model...

also if it has a brake pad that rides on the pulley, check that. Mowers that use that type brake have a known issue because a worn pad changes belt geometry.

there might be a little water in the fuel would be my first guess. A wiring fault as my second guess, or debris in the fuel tank my third guess. Try adding a some 99% Isopropyl alcohol to the fuel tank, or some HEET or any other additive that removes water.

thank you. new one now staked in. old one was already staked and mostly flat. I staked the one in the kit and gently tried to lift it. It is in there. There was also a smaller one that fit a spot on the exterior. That passage was not drilled so none was probably ever there, but I put it in...

went to clean out the ultrasonic parts cleaner and this welch plug was in it. I am guessing it goes where the arrow points. Looked at the engine case, and the carb exterior, no signs of where a plug would go. Nor can I think of anything else on the engine where their might be one. The plug...

yes

Glad you found the problem. What I was referring to is a common reason belts toss on some mowers, or belts seem too loose. Look at the difference in geometry with worn and new pads.

let us know if it spins with the spark plug out. That test will tell a lot. Regardless, clean all the ground connections to be sure they are clean.

yes, made of rice straw

the cost to ship each style blade would be almost the same. That includes front office, shipping, stocking in a warehouse etc.. They probably even ship in the same size box. The dies to make the blades don't care whether one blade gets sold or two. It is one thump on the press for one blade...

maybe a compression check might be something you can do to figure out the health of the cylinders. If there is a knock, that would be a connecting rod, and if so, don't let it grenade the engine.

wouldn't know. I buy only factory parts these days, and only from the manufacturer site. Seems like everytime I buy the cheaper product, it doesn't last. For blades get them from Oregon, Sten, Toro etc.. The only time I order something off brand is when the original is NLA and there are none on...

yes. The people running government on the West Coast have good intentions but their delivery of those intentions results in nose wiggles to accomplish them - "We want therefore it will happen... ." Califodnia AB54 will take effect anyday. That outlaws plastic packaging. Like I told my other...

check the brake pads. If it is the design where the pad rubs on the pulley, as the pad wears the belt gets loose.

Based on theor specs, the connrecting rod journal diameters are different for one thing. StarTech posted the tech bull dimensions.

I was going to start building it tomorrow since everything is cleaned up etc., but I looked it over carefully. On closer inspection, there is a crack running from the flaw in each direction. There is also another one that interescts it a little ways from it, so there is likely to be a bigger...

yes. The new valves barely rock. Need to lap them in and check for bent. then check the gap and tip them until the clearance is in spec. We used to use a valve grinder to tip valves. Here I just do the unthinkable, use the side of a quality wheel as far out as I can, spin them as I lightly touch...

That helps.

320 grit 2 3/4 Ball Hone came in. Took 6 strokes on the block of this 125K02-0189-E1 Briggs engine. One of the dark spots wasn't a spot. It is a casting flaw. And, it has been that way for at least 300 hours. Probably the poof of oil smoke sometimes when starting it since new. Since it is far...

new valves came in. They barely wobble at all in the guides. Well within spec from a machinist's point of view.

is it a sludge or is it dried and caked varnish from dried fuel? Here is what Google AI says: These chemicals work rapidly but must not be used on plastic tanks, as they can warp, melt, or dissolve certain polymers. [1] Acetone: A highly aggressive, clear solvent that thins out and cuts...

I went ahead and ordered the two parts. Have about $100 less than a new engine of similar displacement. That said, this engine will be fine and last another 10 - 20 years when done. I looked on Ebay and there were probably 25 cams for sale - mostly used, but some new. Nylon does age even sitting...

thank you. I was actually concerned about that.

this thread is three pages and too much to do to read them all again so I'll just answer. Have you done a compression test with the engine cold, and another with it hot? if the valves are too tight to where heat is opening them, the pressure will drop significantly with the engine hot.

rebuilding a 125K02-0189-E1 06041958 engine on a Toro 20055 mower. Trying to keep costs down on the rebuild or it doesn't make sense. Likewise, it doesn't make sense to put parts back in that only have a short life expectancy left. Is there any reason not to reuse the cam and governor? The...

This is a 2025 thread that has been opened with a different question.

one of the three is missing. Go back over it. Try a new spark plug also.

if you look at parts for a later model, the belt portion is at the top. You can see the flats also. The spring washer goes on top of that and the nut on top of the washer. The same washer is also used on the other pulley too.

So when an engine is overfilled, the level can cause frothing, where the oil gets really foamy. Air in the oil is not good for lubrication. Personally I would find a way to remove the drain and let a little out. There are kits at places like Harbor Freight that can pull the oil out with a hand...

yes

I was reading last night about the aluminum used in the coolbore engines. It is a special Aluminum-Silica alloy. After the cylinder is bored at the factory it is sent thru a special process that etches the aluminum bore to eat the aluminum and leave the silica on the surface of the cylinder...

Tried to find a how to on removing the low profile valve guide seal in Briggs and Stratton 120000 L-Head engines, but could not find one. None of the other videos where people were rebuilding a Briggs and Stratton 120000 series engine showed that seal being replaced. This is an important seal...

Probably both.

The intake guide is not too bad but the exhaust has too much play in it. Probably will send it out to a cart racing shop to have them put in new guides. No one does it around here. And I lack the reamer kit. None are for sale right now (1/4" valve .2440"). I noticed someone replaced guides in...

need model and serial number to find an owner's manual. If you already have one, have you read completely thru it. That is the first step.

You'll be $250 to $350 into a replacement engine. Rebuilding yours if you are good with that will be equal in parts, and they may be hard to find. A lot of the engines manufactured now are metric so you may need to replace the blade adapter too. I'd make sure the valves on your present mower are...

thank you

hole in piston would be my guess. Probably overheated and melted the crown. The gases push the oil out is usually what happens. A bad valve won't usually push all the oil out. Unless you are good mechanically enough to build an engine, or have someone you trust to do that, might just figure on...

This thread started because of the Led-Plate and the current manual insisting on it. I wonder how many other things are outdated with Briggs data. Has anyone else had trouble with their pictorials for their specific engine? I ordered a thermostat for it based on the model and serial. The mower...

depends on the type of grass. The only thing I can say about 4" is that we mowed at 3" for years. You mow to 3" then it grows to 4" before you mow again. You mow at 4" and it grows to 5" before you mow again. Our retired show lady dog was touching the grass when she pee'd with it mowed to 4"...

Tell me if you know. Has anyone ever radiused these sharp edges to get charges in, and exhaust out of the cylinder with less turbulence? Should run cooler too. RPM is limited of course for a mower, but more charge in and more exhaust moving faster on the way out would lower head temp. Just a...

yes. My fault. Cleaned heads. Cleaned grime off carefully in parts washer, and heads in glass bead machine. Still have to wash it and blow it out to make sure all bead residue gone, then check it with a straight edge. It was 60F this morning and 75F - 80F with a breeze all day until about 4pm...

I pulled the head off. Pictures don't do justice. The cylinder is normal except on the exhaust side where there is discoloration and extremely light scoring from the carbon. Cross hatch is all gone. It feels rougher to my finger nails but not scratches and not gouges. The exhaust valve is almost...

There is a place online that sells parts for gun enthusiasts who sells a small tin of Armite LP-250 for about $6. It is the same as the Led-Plate. https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Browse-by-Manufacturer/JP-Rifles/Armite-LP-250-Sear-Grease I had considered ordering some if it was...