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Those mules will last a long time if you give them a sugar cube every so often. I suggest that you remove the carb and give it a good cleaning, plus replace the float need and seat. Part number 92-9697. This manual will also help you out. Make sure you set the governed RPMs at the end...

Look behind the left rear wheel, on the frame. I have seen them on the right side, but not very often.

Maybe this manual will help, depending on which drive system you have. https://www.toro.com/getpub/48880

You need to have a leakdown test to diagnose the problem. I understand you may not have a good repair shop locally, but going out of your area maybe less costly than replacing the engine. If you are going to try to do it yourself, some auto parts places loan out testers, but you have to know...

Before doing anything I would have the dealer preform a leak down test on each cylinder. This will give you a better idea as to where the problem exists and how to proceed. A dealer who just does a compression test and then says “replace “ is a little suspect in my eyes. Might have to go to a...

Your best bet is to see if you can find a replacement carb. My searches say that LawnBoy #681445 should be the one if you can find one. I haven’t seen that carb for over 20 years. Might find one in a small engine boneyard. Good luck in your search.

Please post all engine numbers so we can zero in on exactly which 12.5 hp engine you have. We hate guessing about how to solve a problem until we know what we are talking about. Model, type and code.

Isn’t this against the forum rules on advertising?

Might try Oregon This website has their phone number. https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/part-finder

https://www.lawnboy.com/en/parts/partdetails?id=34787 This website will show you the part numbers for the parts you wish to replace.

Thank you for reminding me that JD doesn’t want anyone to access their engines. Old age has reminded me I’ve forgotten more than I know.

Please double down your engine numbers. I’m not coming up with a spec number DS00.

Post the model and serial numbers under the seat. With out them we are just like you, GUESSING.

$10 for a new carb??? Must have been an AutoScam or FleaBay special, definitely not OEM purchased from a dealer. I’m betting new carb is not the right one for your engine. Second, I don’t understand “couldn't get the needle valve to function properly”. Here is the procedure I gave students...

When I looked up 10641 there are only two models with different serial numbers. Parts are available, but will need the serial numbers so we can determine correct part number. Toro doesn’t show any superseded number for the part I post, but you never know.

Pinion drive gears should be readily available from any good Toro dealer. Part number 115-4668. I would also check the bearing hoc, as they may be worn, causing the gears not meshing properly.

COVID forced my ESP to only work on days which do not end in Y. Please explain what is wrong with the drive and what parts are no longer available. Can’t help when we are not standing next to you to see the problem. This is the Toro/LawnBoy drive service manual...

Just click on it, should open to the service manual.

Carb kit Kohler 12 757 27-S Service manual. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Courage-SV470-SV480-SV530-SV540-SV590-SV600.pdf

Try this manual. https://documoto.digabit.com/ui/document/36528?q=930164

First thing I would do is pull the dipstick and see if the oil level is above the full mark and smell it. If it smells like gas I suspect the the float needle is not shutting off gas in the float bowl, allowing gas to drain through the carb into the crankcase. Fix, remove the carb and replace...

Engine was produced for many years, but that mower design was only manufactured for one year.

Your mower has an F-Series engine on it and was only produced in 1989. This manual should help you out. Yes, I would replace both seals as long as I have it off the mower. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

First, please post the model and spec numbers when you post back. That way we will know what engine you’re working on. Second, this is the procedure I taught my students when troubleshooting electrical problems. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four...

Hopefully you purchased it from a reputable dealer, because you need to return it for the right part.

Water in the fuel.

Did you checked to see if the flywheel key is partially sheared, which would throw off the timing. Second, did you set the coil air gap at .010”? Third, did you set the point gap at .020”?

If you would read the instructions in the manual you would see that it says to remove the coil. Second, the secondary readings say the ohms are K, which means thousands.

Did you even look at the manual? 5.54 ohms does not came close to the parameters for both the primary and secondary windings. Guess you need help where to look, try section 8-14.

Read and follow the directions in this manual for testing coils. Zero Ohms would indicate a bad coil when tested properly. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FD680V-FD731V-99924-2065-01-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

Please post engine updates so we can see which engine and carb you are working on. .010” valve clearance seems way to much.

Page 8-11 of this manual shows where each of the four wires are connected on your engine. This might help if you have to rewire. https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-K91-K141-K161-K181-K241-K301-K321-K341.pdf

Patience is not a virtue you have a lot of, right? You’re posting the same thread 7 hours apart? Not good. Look at the dipstick on the old engine. Might try swapping O-Rings and see if that helps. A good O-Ring should solve your problem as dipsticks are not vented. Where’s the picture...

Patience is not a virtue you have a lot of, right? You’re posting the same thread 7 hours apart? Not good. Look at the dipstick on the old engine. Might try swapping O-Rings and see if that helps. A good O-Ring should solve your problem as dipsticks are not vented. Plus in your hurry to...

Looks like a Snapper Comet 30.

Did you to see if the variable speed pulley moved freely? Is the belt tensioner are moving freely? Is the belt routed correctly? These are all things I’ve seen DIY guys forgot to check.

Once again DUPLICATE THREAD.

Looks like the clutch bolt was not tightened properly. Going to have to remove the blade and clutch to find the problem.

I’ve done a many of these. Length of time needed depends on many things. I’ve done it in 45 minutes, but had one which took nearly 2 hours. Your expertise. Tools available Fasteners frozeng Are you able to get under easily Will you have a helper Are you able to follow directions like this...

Since when did Briggs go out of business?

I gave you the part numbers for your proper carb. I suggest that you go to the dealer and have him order the correct one. Yes you may have to pay a little more but if it is the wrong one he will have to bite the bullet. Make sure you take along the engine numbers and the numbers I posted, so...

Tiger, as a service tech you know what to look when getting after market parts. This thread is a prime example of how the DIY guy can get into trouble when they order “IT WILL FIT” parts which may fit but will not do the job. Carbs and coils are the most common components where the DIY guys...

2+2 does not add up to 4. If you have a primer bulb the carb you received will not work. Return and find a good supplier. AutoScam is not a good supplier, as they put a different carb in the box. Not that it surprises me, as I’ve seen this too often in the past.

Looking at the two carbs you showed in post #1, I don’t think you have the correct carb for your engine. When I look up the model number you posted it calls for carb number 15003-7133 which is superseded to carb number 15003-7099. The one thing I see with both of these carbs is you must remove...

Sounds like you have a fuel problem, engine revs high on starting, and electrical problem, blows fuse . Please post anll Engine numbers so we know which engine you have. Stihl used four different engine manufacturers.

I checked and That engine came with a minimum of three different carburetors. Depending on the engine numbers it is very likely that you have the wrong carb. Please check and post the full engine numbers and the part number for the new carb you purchased. That way we can see where the prices is.

Have you run a small wire through the oil return passageway, making sure it is clear all the way into the crankcase. This is how I found the problem I talked about in post #3.

Outside may look the same, but inside may be different. Is the units model number the same as the one listed in the ad? I’ve never had luck with carbs or coils purchased on AutoScam or EBay. To easy to get junk that someone else has tried them returned.

About 10 years ago I’ve switched my 2-cycle engines and those I repair to Opti-2 2-cycle oil. It can be used in all 2-cycle engines with ratios from 16/1 to 50/1. Since doing this I no longer have multiple different fuel cans and I’ve also never hada failure.

Did you replace the carb with an OEM carb bought from a dealer or a carb off EBay or AutoScam. If it were the later I suspect you have the wrong carb. Purchasing a carb that is advertised as “it will fit XYZ ENGINES” may well be your problem. Because it fits doesn’t mean that it is jetted...