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Hello C., There are many design variables involved so pressures and gallons per minute (GPM) will be different. I suggest you study some of the manufacturer's specs to get a better idea. Tuff Torque is one of the most popular makers of hydrostatic transmission for most manufacturers. Mower...

The tension spring in the middle looks to be a generic spring and is not applying tension like it should. The coils of the springs should be spread a little which would indicate good tension

What is a Honda "izy". No one can help you with this machine unless you provide label information off of the chassis and the engine.

The equipment market is no longer pro-repair (especially after Covid), so manufacturers price most parts up in the stratosphere to make up for lost profits from years past. This makes people mad, so they reluctantly end up buying more new equipment. It's a strategy being used across many...

Hi bartles, "Back in the day" most components also had flat mating surfaces, so many gaskets were simple to make. Now, engineers have resorted to intricate designs that require special heat-resistant O-rings and molded rubber gaskets. Of course, many of the old bad habits have not gone away...

Back when mechanics were actually tradesman, it was routine to make many of the pressed paper and cork gaskets from bulk roll material for a job. Even today, it still does not make sense to me to delay a job just to buy simple gaskets that can be made by hand.

Thanks for the update info. The only other thing left I can think of at the moment is a possible aftermarket air cleaner that is blocking proper air flow.

This is why it is important to verify the air vane is functioning properly. This give the thermostat time to heat up and hold the choke open. The choke initially is held open by the air vane operation.

The air vane near the flywheel and a small spring are supposed to reduce the choke fairly quickly as the thermostat on the muffler heats up. It's an over engineered system. It's been a long time since B&S made anything simple and DIY friendly. The linkage can be a bit confusing, so check out a...

The backing on the left is for auto choke models, not sure about the one on the right. Maybe it's for a primer bulb type system?

I hate to mention this, but these engines do have a plastic cam gear that can skip a tooth and throw the valve timing off. That is showing to be one of the weak areas of this engine design. The lobes can also shift on the metal core of the camshaft.

I agree with what Slomo recommends. Most regular RTV sealers are basically meant for one time assembly and can be a real challenge if you plan to adjust the valves again in the future. #2 Form a gasket is some very good sealant that is user friendly.

Sounds like trash in a gas can strikes again. The supply line needs to be cleared with shop air and the tank removed for a good cleaning. From there, strain any fuel that comes from a supply can.

Sounds like it's time for the dealer to call in a technical rep and find the problem or send the mower back to the factory and give you a replacement

Use a painters 5 in1 tool, they work great for valve covers. As for sealant look for Permatex Right Stuff. It will not make the job impossible later on to get the cover back off.

Is it possible that you are crushing the crankcase vent tube that attaches to the back of the air cleaner assembly? That backing is also what bolts the carburetor and the metal bracket assembly. Did you watch the video I sent you?

My bet is on the starter clutch as well. It will squeal like you describe then bind up the starter head and all that stuff. These old B&S engines were much tougher than the new stuff (garbage) they have today. I would make an effort to save this trimmer as well because it has many years of use...

You have a small air leak in the primer system.

I cannot see your product label from here and my crystal ball is in the shop for a 3rd time this week. Look the machine up by the product identification label on the chassis. I use Parts Tree and Ebay quite often, but Sears parts direct likely have what you need.

Model 80303 or 80302? It stamped on the side of the starter cover. Not sure where you found that other information.

Hello S., Stihl is pretty restrictive when it comes to their repair information. They require people actually attend online or in-person paid training. I honestly do not recommend attempting to perform major engine repairs on these engines. These engines require specialty tools and considerable...

An aftermarket carburetor should be available for this engine without too much trouble. The tube with the screen should not have a hole in it. That screen is the actual fuel filter. These were simple, reliable carburetors, but had a habit of wearing the throttle shaft and housing as they aged...

This is not a totally bad idea, but I see this only being functional in a straight-line operation with no obstacles and not practical using it going straight at a garage door recess area or close trimming around trees. The rounded end cutting ball spindle is much more effective and versatile...

Maybe this will help: https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=Cleaning+a+B%26S+plastic+carburetor&&mid=89E24F947ED6C7FC15FE89E24F947ED6C7FC15FE&churl=https%3a%2f%2fwww.youtube.com%2fchannel%2fUCA9GlAGvSMsoXBPR77JTTJQ&FORM=VRDGAR

What climate will this machine be used the most? Is it for regular mowing, snow plowing duty or both? Find the label on your transmission to determine what series/model number you have. Go to the Tuff Torq website for their recommendation. Most are recommended to use Tuff Tech 5W-50...

Hello K., Your picture was hard to distinguish because the gear was still installed and you were too close to the area. Now that the gear is off the damage should be easier to see and understand. I have a feeling this is going to be a pattern failure for this engine design. Can you also share...

Most "old timers" like me go by the standard of .010 coil air gap, .020 points gap (back when they used points) and .030 spark plug gap for push mower and rider engines. There are manuals available online for your particular engine. The engine has its own set of ID numbers. Cub Cadet does not...

Hello P., Glad you got it running. One of the forgotten rules on those early pulse-jet carburetors is they were moody about starting if the fuel is below 1/2 tank. The B&S push mowers carbs with the single tube were the worst for this problem. When I first started out in a small engine shop...

Is that gear plastic/nylon? Can you take a picture of the broken gear you removed? I have this same engine on a walk behind trimmer and might consider changing this out this gear before it breaks

You are dealing with 6 hilly acres? Sounds like it is time to consider a compact tractor with a wide finish mower deck.

Is the gas cap blocked off somehow? Blocked vents on the gas cap can cause this problem. It's been years since I have had an old one like this do this, but it can happen.

I am a fan of Stihl handheld blowers. The biggest thing with any 2-stroke is to empty the fuel and run it out of fuel if it is going to be stored for more than a couple of weeks.

I suggest you pull the muffler of and heat it up red hot with a torch and burn out the years of carbon buildup. Your compression is a bit low. If exhaust cannot get out, air/fuel will not get in properly. It helps to confirm you spark with an adjustable gap spark tester. If no spark, the first...

Hello M., Locate a key on power wire for the positive side of the electric pump to splice into and also install an inline fuse. A 20A fuse should suffice. The fuse is to isolate and protect the rest of the harness in case the pump ever fails. The ground can go to the chassis as long as the...

Use a torch and get the muffler red hot to cook out the burnt carbon deposits. As for the scoring, it looks minor and was likely from excess carbon that has collected on top of the piston. This problem happens quite often with people who mix their own oil/fuel concoctions. Most people think of...

A section out of a cheap spiral notebook cover works well. People are always trying to make science projects out of simple procedures. Maybe if they spent some time learning about ignition coils magnetic induction their life would be less chaotic.

In the famous words of Ron Poppel "Just set it and forget it". Of course, many people in the past have become so brainwashed by our throw it away society it was practically expected. Now, the prices have skyrocketed on new equipment and actual repairs, and servicing are coming back into view...

Trade up or live with it.

Hello J., Welcome to the forum. Just for future reference, please provide us with the product ID label information and the engine label information so people can help you more accurately. It is rare that problems like this can be resolved so rapidly without details.

Try blowing shop air back through the fuel supply line to see if it clears up the problem. I have had lots of blocked fuel tank pickup tubes and fuel lines choke with grass chaff and garbage from dirty fuel cans.

And your point is Chinese ignition modules are full of surprises and the bonus word "new" that makes people think it is anything but the new parts. The exhaust likely had a rodent nest from sitting. It is rare to have a muffler defect but not impossible.

Hello M., Sounds great. Make sure to clean the points with a small strip of whit notebook paper to remove any trace of oil or sediments. This is a vital step with new and old points that will prevent pitting. I always liked the adjustable tappets in these engines. With most other...

The left side is not producing power according to the temp reading. Check for spark output on that coil using and adjustable air gap spark tester. The cheap light bulb type spark testers are not reliable.

What is the "spring" you installed on the linkage? Can you provide a couple of pictures? Did you possibly attach to the choke linkage and not it is being held wide open. Don't crank for extended time because it will damage the starter eventually.

I recommend you look up your engine label information on the Parts Tree website. A have had too many issues with Amazon parts. eBay is also a good source, but look for genuine parts

A conventional rider has its limitations also, so be careful when close to steep banks. They will tend to crab walk on soft ground when going across at an angle.

Whenever you ask about a machine, you need to include the chassis ID label information. If it involves the engine, it will have its own label that we would need the information off of. Is it a running leak or just seepage with dust gathered around it? The main thing is to keep them topped off...

For the build quality, I would go with the Husqvarna, but shop around and see if any of the area tractor dealers can give you a better deal along with service capability. Tractor Supply is just a box store vendor, and their prices have been higher than most around. Tractor supply has no service...

The one shown in the picture is badly bent. It would help to have the product ID label information from under the seat. https://www.partstree.com/search/?tab=models&search=yta24v48+husqvarna+48+yard+tractor+parts

Hi O., The way I read it, he wants to replace the fan.