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It will either be 3/8" npt or possibly 1/2 "

Use the square shank extractor , the twist usually will just slip and not grab

Keep drilling it out , get a " heilicoil" or thread insert kit , it will come with the drill , tap and insert you need to replace the bolt assembly,

I don't think what you're seeing has anything to do with it not running right ,Don't get locked into this as the problem , I really doubt this is anything but normal wear / tear in a chainsaw that has seen use. I would look at your fuel system first , your compression is good so cylinder scoring...

What changed when this happened ? Something caused this

Low oil level kill safety switch ?

You can tell usually when you begin seeing grass being left standing after you pass over it , especially when turning the machine. It will begin to leave strips here and there

If it's a safety switch , it will not even turn over , does it turn over and not fire Or does it not even respond to your ignition Key ?

Any pully the same size will do in my opinion , it's not something you need OEM for , just make sure it's the same diameter and same size groove for the belt.

Well at least you found something that maybe the cause

Apples and Oranges when comparing to small gas engines I think

Might look closely at the blades and make sure they're all the same and don't have one possibly bent

Do you have it routed right ? my craftsman never gives any trouble like this , possibly the wrong size wire ?

A bit of grease periodically never hurt anything that is greaseable

If you don't pull the inner seal off the bearings there will not be any grease getting to the bearings regardless of how much grease you pump into the cavity

They make what's called a " Crow Foot " wrench, you can use that to remove the jamb nut that appears to be holding and securing the drain assembly, Look it up and figure out what size you need

Check the tension on your idler pully , this pully needs to " float " while running if it's static you going to have issues with the belt in my opinion , also make sure it's correctly routed, just because you got it that way does not mean it's right

I think his gas was getting into the crankcase , the only way I know of would be from the carb bowl / needle valve not seating and somehow getting into the oil sump

How many hours are on this machine ? did you take a compression test before tearing into it ? Blue smoke would indicate worn rings as well as compression loss Not sure about white smoke , never have noticed this on a small gas engine , Just curious , don't have any solutions myself but...

Just to prove the theory sgkent suggested , clean up the old one and put it back on the machine , if it fires off you'll know the keyway is not cut to the correct orientation . Which is what it appears to be , a machine shop would cost you more than the replacement flywheel and no Guarantee they...

You say you have strong blue spark but no fire ? You have Compression Spark Fuel The last thing is timing , Give it a shot of starting fluid next if you still have No engine response , it's fire or timing

There are only 2 wires that run to the clutch , I would guess they leave the ignition switch and go through a relay then to the clutch , they should be color coded so start at the switch and see where it leads you. You should only have voltage on one of the wires at the clutch when engaged ...

Just worked on one that had a bad battery and would not engage the clutch, new battery solved the problem but good information to file away anyway

That clutch pull a lot of amperage , takes a good battery to engage it

Post a picture if you can

Glad you got it figured out, never seen this before though, guessing you tore it down thinking the dots were aligned if so how on earth did it run before , maybe there's other alignment marks you didn't notice , are they 180 deg apart ? Weird stuff

Check the flywheel key and see if it's sheared

You'll need to post a picture of the carb as it is now so we can see exactly what you're talking about , lots of different set ups for different carbs

low Voltage can Cause this also

Remove the kill wire off the coil and check for spark , if it gives you spark the problem is with the wire if not, it's the coil assembly.

I'd pull and clean the carb and make sure the filter is not dirty, I tried E85 fuel one time and had to keep it choked partially to keep my mower running , also the governor linkage may be sticking and not able to respond when you get into thick grass

There are 2 grommets where the fuel line goes into the tank that need changing as well, if it leaks when you prime it , look at the primer bulb lines to the carb and return back to tank

Check your fuel lines for good flow , when did this start ? all of a sudden or has it been acting up over time ? New components don't mean they're good , I've put new carbs on thinking that eliminated the carb from the issue and was still the carb, same with fuel pumps etc. It does not sound...

I've never seen a carburator smoke , I think you're seeing exhaust , nothing comes out of the carb , only air / fuel intake at that point , if it backfires you may see something there but would not be running good if so , this smoke is coming from somewhere else

Just don't scalp your lawn , it will get thick and healthy as long as you don't cut it too short. I'm in South Louisiana but doubt it's any different up there

Look it up on Amazon , for replacement parts for that machine,

There are small terminals on your solenoid , one is ground the other comes from your key switch, and should have 12 volts when you turn the key , if it sees 12 volts and does not engage the solenoid and turn the engine over , it's your solenoid . you can jump 12 volts straight to that terminal...

You going to need another flywheel no matter what , how did this happen ? did the starter get changed at some point and begin chewing up the flywheel , it would have made a sound like grinding or something , I've never run across this in the past

If it's a metal sheath , I've cut the outer sheath before and then cut the inner cable to length , you'll need to re bend the end to fit the carb linkage and that's a little tricky ,

make sure your routing is correct , the old belt was surely stretched a bit , it's easy to route the belt wrong

If it wont fire with ignition fluid , you have an ignition problem , clean up the coil and flywheel area with some emery paper , pull the plug and ground to watch for a spark , should be good healthy spark not weak, if you don't see anything, -- I hold the coil wire and pull the starting rope...

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere, when you push the mower , the piston is not moving so that's not the issue

You should have 12 volts coming into the clutch engagement switch , if not work backwards to find out where the voltage drop is .

I tried some E85 fuel on mine and had to use the choke to keep it running , not sure about the 15% ethanol stuff..

Make sure it's not left hand thread , if you snap off the head , you'll be drilling out the broken bolt and that's no picnic , I have not seen a left hand thread on the clutch drive but you never know

This was a problem for Spartan machines , they actually sell a kit to bypass / work around this key pad Screwup I chose not to buy one for this reason , not sure where to get the kit but sure someone on the tube will address it

I just turn it upside down and try to blow through the fuel inlet , you should not be able to push air through it , then turn it right side up and do the same thing , air should flow easily, if pass all test , take apart and look at the jet , pull and clean , you should be able to see the hole...

Test your Clutch engagement Switch , with the key on and switch engaged you should see 12 volts at the switch , if you do , then chase the wires to where they go to the clutch itself and see where the power drops off . may just be the switch , some have extra terminals and you can just move...

Fuel solenoid only shuts off fuel supply , if it's a safety switch it will not allow the starter to engage

Not sure of your skill level but When I run across wiring issues , I start from scratch with new wires to simplify everything You need 12 vts to the ignition key switch , from the On position voltage should go to the clutch engagement switch then to the clutch, also power from the same...