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You are correct. I pulled that number off the top of my head . It's 6083. I'll edit my response.

Let me look.

Also, you can take one of your unused blades down to the local mower shop and they will match it up.

No. I listed the wrong number. It's 6083.The best way to determine which blades that you need is to either get the actual dimensions of the blades or look in the mowers operator manual for the blade number. In your case, you have a 20.5" long x 2.5" or 3" wide x 1/4" thick with a 5/8" center...

Oregon 96-319 is also a match. Personally, I would choose a Rotary 6083

I'm thinking that he meant Mamba blades. These are a brand of blade that copies the Gator design. I'm not sure that they are even made anymore. The OP should give us the dimensions of one of his new blades.

The above answers are correct. However, fluids react to gravity and tend to flow downward. Look around higher up for any other possible leaks. I would assume that your mower is still under warranty. If so, any thing that you find should be taken care of promptly.

Knowing what brand of mower, width of deck, and number of blades help. Another option is to measure the blades. What is the diameter of the center hole? What is the width of the blades? What is the thickness of the blades? What is the length of the blades? Blade length is measured diagonally...

I like to cheat a little during the initial leveling. I use two levels.

The manual shows 4 leveling bolts. Two on each side by rear wheels and two on each side up front near the frame.

We don't even know what kind or exact model of your Cub Cadet is. You need to be more specific.

The manual is just a guide. Do you know how to work the leveling bolts? If so, move on to getting it leveled. Park it on flat of level ground. A concrete pad works best Here is an Ariens video. The concept is similar.

The Kohler Confidant line and B&S Professional and CXi lines would benefit from a similar system. I will say that the filter setup with the Kohler Confidant ZT-740, on my Gravely, stays relatively clean. However, I service the filter as outlined in the Kohler owners manual. The manual says to...

Similar mixed grass situation in my yard.

Was this a Tractor Supply Bad Boy?

New short block at the least. You want to keep your butt covered. Attempting to repair something like that is opening yourself up to more problems down the road.

We don't know what Bad Boy you have or what engine is on it. Can you post the model number and serial number of the mower? Can you post the engine brand, it's model number and it's serial number?

Straight pipes sound cool.

It's mounted.

NO! You will have to mow when the grass is completely dry. That would mean hottest part of the day. You would have to mow more often. Mulch kits tend to pack clippings under the deck and randomly drop clumps on the lawn. A wind row effect, between each row, is often visible. The underside of the...

Thanks. I could not find the bulletin (kawasaki engine 26-01). https://kawasakienginesusa.com/engines/fx-series/fx801v

Here is the link to the Kawasaki EU site. It's the same date as the USA technical bulletin. https://www.kawasaki-engines.eu/en/support/technical-information/engine-service-chart/

The Bulletin is because of oil starvation when operating on inclines. I would say that it applies.

He should test that. That's how I found the problem with my choke. Remove air filter, place a hand over the intake horn and crank. If it fires, the problem has been located.

Post the bulletin.

Go here and put in your model number. https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/blades?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=12055120738&gbraid=0AAAAAC6cT8LPLXVPf6vy4PX7llWdPOblg&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrs7RBhDuARIsAIVfBD29TEiyGspNDFNXpAOJDYZUB-m-9_8NdB0SS3GFrYixlHo0Cn0WlgQaAtQ5EALw_wcB&scroll=1

Don't waste your money. Mulching only works half decent on fall leaves.

Using a lawn mower as a brush cutter.

I think that you have your answer. The nut is the one operating the levers. No consequences for ragging out an expensive machine. A person who pays for a mower and the repairs is going to take better care of it.

If it's losing that much oil, it's going somewhere. Either it's going out of the tailpipe or it's leaking. It's probably both with that many hours. If there's a bunch of gunk around the PTO clutch, it's a crank seal.

Diesel or kerosene was in the tank. Always use a yellow can for diesel. But, we all make mistakes when in a hurry. My latest mistake was spraying Roundup instead of insecticide. In a hurry, I grabbed the wrong sprayer. Yet, both sprayers are clearly marked. 🫪

My three acres is former pasture. I run a Gravely Pro Turn 260. It was a lot of trial and error to get my deck and blade setup just right. My problem was getting a good throw on the clippings. I imagine that our climate is similar. I have a mixture of Bermuda, Bahai, Centipede, and St. Augustine.

I did find these. https://igoprolawnsupply.com/products/48-mower-low-lift-blade-16-1-4-long-5-8-hole-hardened-steel

I just looked on Oregon's website. There is no listing low lift blades in 16.25 length with a 5/8" center hole. I've gotten the same results on Stens website and Rotary's website.

I wouldn't call the OEM Gravely blades high lift. They are more like standard lift or medium lift. Maybe, the OEM style mulching blades would work for you. I'll look around and see what I can find on a true low lift blade.

The actual tool isn't that expensive. Add a battery and charger, the total price more than doubles. Low IQ politicians have no business mandating such foolishness. Do they even think about the disposal of all of those spent batteries?

Ah! You live in Commiefornia.

Yep, Kawasaki FR-651-V. Here's the parts manual. https://apache.ariens.com/manuals/04082600.pdf

The owners manual does list a Kawasaki engine as an original power plant. However, that could vary due to supply issues.

👍🏻 It's a ZT50. It was probably made around 2009. It's a residential model https://apache.ariens.com/manuals/03989300A_ENG.pdf

Problem solved? Maybe not. He hit a rock with a nearly new mower. I expect there is damage to the spindle, blade bolt, blade, and possibly the top of the deck where the spindle mounts. A thorough inspection is needed, first.

The entry level residential battery powered trimmers, of any brand, aren't that great. They are disposable. There isn't a whole lot of manufacturer support. I've had experience with the corded models and they were horrible. There probably hasn't been much change in performance since the switch...

Hydro-Gear EZT drive units.

That's high hours and your compression is not in the desired range. Also, the oil pump could have failed. You should probably start weighing your options. That engine is tired.

For homeowners and up-start commercial guy, the Echo SRM-225 or Stihl FS-56 CE is the way to go. I've had both. I just trashed my 10 year old SRM-225. I replaced it with the Stihl. I prefer the Echo. It was a better balanced machine. Power is about the same on both. The old Echo was just tired...

That hose is the vacuum line to the fuel pump. It must be in good shape for the pump to deliver fuel to the carburetor. Replace with a new hose. You will need to get it at your local OPE dealer. You will need the engine brand, engine model number, and engine serial number for the correct hose.

I like to use Kohler air filters and fuel filters on my Kohler powered unit. Running a business, it's best to use OEM stuff on units serviced for paying customers.

Oil filters: Advance Auto Parts, NAPA, and O'Reilly Auto Parts. Hydraulic filters and air filters can be sourced from local OPE dealers or online. It's best to use OEM, Stens, or Rotary. Blades: OEM, Stens, Rotary, or Oregon. Online or local dealer. Rotary blades are a good quality product at...

Jack up your mower. Remove the deck belt. Turn the questionable blade end to end with the adjacent blade. Are the ends of each level? Grab the effected blade and try to move it up and down. Is there any play or wobble? Remove the effected blade. Does the spindles appear to be out of whack?

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