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You can make your own primer bulb. Need to pressurize the carb fuel bowl. Barb hose fitting some hose and a primer bulb. When you hit the bulb, pressurized air makes gas shoot up into the venturi. Or T off the fuel line into a primer bulb and hose going to a home made wooden carb spacer into...

If you say so. Pretty close anyway.

Get rid of the wingnuts. They only loosen with time and not charge the battery. Think those are worse than these emergency ONLY types people love to use. Toss these in the can too.

Tell your neighbor to clean the engine cooling fins while you have it opened up. These are air cooled engines.

Double nut to remove the studs. Or a 7 or 8mm closed end wrench or 6 pointed only socket. No 12 point sockets here.

They are called power washers. Or degreaser and scrub brushes plus a garden hose. Foaming glass cleaner, old paint brush and compressed shop air. Take your pick. Getting at you need to CLEAN the engine like a NEW ONE prior to opening the engine up. Why? All that piled up grit and trash can and...

How many months does it take to get 100 hours on your mower? At minimum, change the oil yearly. If you have a lot of exposed dirt slash no grass under trees and the like, change more often. Why not do it twice a year? Only talking about a quart and a half of oil per. Not like you are draining...

Pictures never lie. Just saying your words don't sound like you are confident they got cleaned. If you neglect the cooling fins, look for engine damage. This is not something to put off or glaze over. I'll go with 2% effectiveness here. Not a total waste of time and product but near it. Better...

Also need to look at de-carboning the cylinder/s. Cleaning all the carbon out of the cylinders and on slash behind the valves. Look in YOUR engine manual for more info. Needs to be done every 5-8 years roughly. Why do this? Because chunks of carbon can and do flake off getting between the rings...

Match one off of ebay. Don't buy the cheapest listing you can find. I've had better luck buying a listing that is say 10 bucks over the cheapest listing. Must admit, lately, I've had good luck with Chinese carbs. Was a big fan of OEM carbs. These cheapos just work for ME. I do go over any...

Guessing you do not know how to look up your engine parts right? Do you have Google at your house? Oh I get it. We ARE your Google. Never mind LOL Google your engine make and type in parts. So Kawasaki mower parts for example. Parts sites will pull up in Google. Click on a parts web site. Put...

I will keep it out of my engines. Do as you guys wish in yours.

My take, on a 27 year old engine, she needs some love. 1.Valves clearances ran 2.All cylinders de-carboned per yours and every other mower engine manual out there. Should be done say every 5-9 years depending on usage. Look at your engine manual to find out more. 3.Number 2 leads to number 3...

I wouldn't add anything but a good SAE 30W if it was MY mower. Marvel has solvents and a thin base oil that will degrade the viscosity. Maybe if she was water cooled?? A good oil is critical as well as CLEAN cooling fins.

Post engine model and serial numbers here. Any and all numbers you can find. Pictures of the numbers are even better.

A rock bar or two and a couple 4x4 wood blocks can move mountains. Or some cinder blocks for jacking vertically.

Think they are called rock bars. I have a couple in the garage. Stout heavy steel with a chisel end and the other is a hammering like blob of steel. Guess they are called different things depending on manufacturer.

Use some marine grade heat shrink over your repair. Prefer soldering and heat shrinking. Hobo Freight has a kit that works good at $6.99. https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html?hftm_sc=3567&hftm_source=google

Why would you not top off the gas AND OIL, prior to EVERY MOW? Oil ON the full mark, not under nor over. Old wise smart folks would walk the property picking up log chains, bikes, engine blocks, cars, cinder blocks, branches and so on prior to mowing.

Also the cam lobe the points get opened and closed on wears too. Simple wear and tear.

How are you going to test this?

From where to where exactly? OEM or did you save money again on Amazon? Any new pump will demand testing. Clean where, on the outside or was every jet pulled, emulsion tube cleaned and float height set proper? Sometimes people say they cleaned the carb. Only to find out in pictures later they...

Sounds like you bought the wrong mower.

Not a conclusive test. Switch over to Ohms. Even better a milli Ohms scale. Looking for a dead short or as close to.

Hold up on that car wash gentlemen (Smokey and the Bandit). What happens if you spray any flavor of oil on a lawn mower? It will collect dirt, grass and grit right? Grit will wear out everything it touches. How about foaming glass cleaner and shop air? Maybe use the wife's toothbrush and scrub...

I still have a dope Craftsman inductive in my box of tricks. Another reason why I preach about open gap adjustable spark testers. We need to stress these coils out. Also run the engine at low, mid and high revs looking for no spark failures. Some will spark at low revs only to fail at mid and...

8 years old, probably needs valves ran and cylinder's de-carboned per his engine manual.

As in someone cutting the key off? Or does it stumble down in revs slowly until she dies?

Make sure you ground the tester to clean metal. Most I see place a plug on the painted engine block and not get spark. A simple test light can be used too. Connect the clamp to the negative battery post or clean engine block. The probe end inside your plug boot. You can move the tip away from...

Pull fuel line off AT carb inlet. Drain it into a glass jar. WATCH the gas flow. Let it flow about a full quart. This will show good flow or not AND your tank cap vent is working or not. Remember to crank the engine. If she drains ok for a bit then stops, open your tank cap. See if the vent...

Pull the coil off. Polish the area where the screws sit, both sides and the pads where the coil sits on the engine block. Coil needs a clean ground path to work proper. Yours is all rusted up. Better yet buy a new coil. With all the heat and vibes these mowers take. Mice chewed wires are no...

Not to mention the older machines are built better than these new ones. Repowering can be done in a few hours. Not changing a cruise ship engine out.

Stick with non Ethanol Unleaded 87 octane. Your engine was made for it.

How old are the fuel lines from tank to carb?

Another reason to test spark with an open gap type spark tester. You can open the gap up and stress the coil out. Light bulb types you can't. Looking at your coils, I would of started with polishing the area where the screws go and the pads where the coils sit. Coils need a good ground to...

What type of fuel can spout do you have and use? Open top or closed with o-rings like these? Far right spout is a no-go failure. Middle spout is good. You can buy spouts using your old can.

Focus on the engine running problem. Most of the time it is a lack of fuel delivery. Dirty carb, trash and or water in the fuel tank. Shot in the dark, a non venting fuel tank cap. Fuel lines degrade internally so you can't see problems with them until they choke the flow off.

If you can TIG, weld the sucker up. As you already know, it's all about the prep work. V grind away at the area and go to town. OP sounds like a capable fella'. If nothing else, you can learn on that block and tell all us noobs how to do it proper.

Possibly. Or use what I use, a non-hardening sealant, gas and oil resistant gooo from Permatex. Perfect for oil pans and valve covers. Says aviation grade as well on the package. Forget RTV, better sealants out now. Next guy to work on it will kiss you on the lips. Not having to clean up and...

Make the video. Post to youtube. Might even make some money off it. LINK it here so we can watch it.

1 ounce treats 2.5 gallons.

Get an evap smoke machine. $16.49 to your door...

So it will run with starting fluid. I would look for a clogged pilot jet or circuit. Also could be debris in the fuel tank and tank outlet barb/nipple. Fuel lines deteriorate internally so you will not see bad lines. Just replace them all from tank to carb. If it runs she is drawing fuel...

First test to mower troubleshooting is as follows: Spraying 2 stroke mix into the carb confirms a few things if she runs and dies. 1.Engine wants more fuel. Dirty carb or fuel delivery issue. 2.You have enough compression to run. 3.Your spark is good and AT the correct time (flywheel key is good).

Pull fuel line from carb INLET. Drain into a glass jar. Look for water and trash in the bottom of the jar. FILL the jar as to TEST your tank cap VENT and flow. If she flows then stumbles slash trickles, the tank cap VENT is the issue. This test confirms two things for you.

Nope, not going to do it LOL LOL. :ROFLMAO:

A quick spray bang might not run for long. Sounds like you barely hit it with your starting juice. Spray some 2 stroke mix which is way safer that ether. Fog it in there real nicely. Plus ether has NO lube in it like 2 stroke. Some get wild with the ether and can strip all the oil out of the...

Yes you can. Think about what you wrote again. Plastic float and tab. Think if you had NO other way to fix it. Like the guys on Cuban Chrome or Pakistani Truckers on YouTube. Okay heat gun and a small prying device. GENTLY heat the tab. GENTLY tweak the tab until she moves. GENTLE and SMALL...

Polarity issue, flip your meter probes.