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Need to isolate the coil REMOVING the plug while testing for spark. Plug in series you have 2 parts you are testing.

Confirm which terminal. The kill wire terminal? IF you have a kill wire short to ground, she will NOT start. NO spark all day long. Does she have a low oil sensor killing spark? Check the oil on a level surface.

Going with lack of fuel delivery or possible dead cylinder. Couple more below. Choke stuck on partial. Trash in the tank Dead internal fuel lines Dirty carb Open top gas can spout. THIS is where it all starts......... Carb after-fire solenoid plunger sticking Stale fuel with E-10 and water...

Do you have spark MINUS the plug? Maybe the plug opened up or gap closed?? Simple 12 volt test light connected to bare metal. Pointy end inside the plug boot. Do you have spark this way?

Toss the Christmas tree light waste of time toys. Was going to call it a tester but that was too much LOL.

If you pull all kill wires AT the coil, should drain the tank dry IF the coil/s are good.

My man, a 1991 engine will need de-carboned, valve job, head and block area where the head sits, lapped, and so on. All of this is IN your engine manual. Valve clearance checked after lapping the valves in. Let's talk about de-carboning the cylinder and valves. Chunks of carbon WILL break off...

Supposed to be that way. Engine is warmed up and read to go. Easy right?? Going with a weak slash dying ignition coil here. Valve job, valve clearance and such. Explain this fully please. How big of a gap at 3600rpm does she jump? 🍿🍿🍿 WHERE did you buy it from? Scamazon or Fleabay? Best to...

People testing at one speed say 1200rpm cranking speed are not checking the full rpm output of the ignition coil. Mid and high revs of 3600 need to be checked as stated above. So a typical spark test with a plug on the engine block is NOT a valid spark test. Doesn't tell the full story.

OP sounds like a mower novice. Not to worry we all start some place. What I would do. Battery on a charger. Spray 2 stroke gas mix STRAIGHT INTO the carburetor throat. Crank the engine over. If she starts and runs a few seconds then dies, you have a fuel delivery issue. Could be trash in the...

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I use a simple plastic hand pump sprayer. Like cleaning windows with. Like a plant mister. Taryl has them in his online store. Rich folk use the below...

Right right...... I say 4. Air, fuel, spark (at the correct time) and compression. Agree especially E-10, goes bad in 30 days. OP probably has water in the system or stale fuel. ????

I have gone over to 2 stroke mix myself. Works in any two or four smoke engine. Way less flammable plus lubes every cylinder you spray it in. Cheaper than canned death types like brake cleaner too. Even at today's ultra high gas prices, if you mix a gallon and some 2 stroke oil, will last you...

I can't believe you guys don't know exactly what model and engine he has...... Amateur hour around here LOL. :ROFLMAO: (y):p

Here is Taryl in action. The meat and taters starts at 5:00 - 7:00. Watch the entire video where he explains gap jumping and proper spark testers. This will answer a lot of your questions. Notice he had spark at low revs only. At mid and high revs he had nothing. Bad coil alert........

Reason why I mentioned to try it WITH the air filter on and at 3600rpm. Filter will richen it up a touch. LOVE the reply, just love it. (y) (y) Should be a spring on the throttle/governor linkage that connects AT the throttle end AND the other end a stationary metal tab. More you tighten the...

Agree, throw the Christmas light style spark checker in the trash. Not a real world test at all.

So what we know after 5 pages. Engine smooths out at higher revs. All agree? Think this carb has no pilot circuit so not guaranteed to run smooth at low revs. Told OP to set the revs at 3600rpm and see what happens. I was ignored. Can you drain a full tank into a glass jar, WITH good fat...

Get an open gap style spark tester. Open the gap up and stress the coil out. See how far she can spark. Just recently replaced two of my five mower coils due to weak spark. Only a couple bucks shipped to your door.

Pretty sure this is a fixed speed engine. As in 3600rpm. Not meant to idle down. Briggs, Kroller, Honda and Kawasaki all state run at max revs for max cooling and lubrication. Speaking of max engine life slash durabillity.

You have either a throttle/governor spring or a choke/throttle cable controlling the speed. First should be like a metal tab. Second is a lever. Post up pictures of what you are working on.

Amazing how people buy $1800 cell phones but no way in heck buy a 20 dollar mower part LOL. Sucking down that over priced StarTrash coffee.

Why would you knock out the dust several times a day? You break the seal every time you do this. It's your mower. Just install a fresh filter and run it until she takes a couple extra cranks to start or starts losing power. THEN put a new filter in. Doing the multiple daily beat and bang...

Anyone asked about the engine numbers yet? Is this a Briggs autochoke model? Definitely a Quantum style nbpt100 mentioned about.

THIS engine is made to run at 3600rpm. Soon as you pull the rope until you shut it off. Carb does NOT have a pilot circuit to assist proper running when you incorrectly idle down the engine revs. Set it at 3600rpm as we all heard it ran better and leave it alone.

I've seen OLD clean looking paper filters cause running issues. Install a new fresh filter and she runs like a top. Guessing paper gets old and doesn't flow like a new one?? Probably was an aftermarket unconfirmed but definitely old.

Just set the sucker at 3500-3600rpm and forget about it.

Thanks for letting us know your fix action. Glad she is a runner again.

That tiny carb I bet lacks a pilot circuit. Looks like a fixed rpm main jet sucker to me.

Post up a linked video of it WITH the air filter on please. She how she runs with a filter.

Worn out gear cogs on the mower won't help much with new wheels if you can find them. Will eat the new wheel gears away in short order. Need to replace both parts. Good luck in your search.

Either replace the solenoid or snip the plunger off and use an inline fuel valve to kill fuel about a minute prior to killing the engine. Also can get a bolt the same thread and pitch for the solenoid and bypass the solenoid all together. Saves this stupid no run condition for the next guy later on.

STOP using the engine until you get the carb sorted. THEN dump the oil after every single mow three times. Oil is cheap. Got to get all the fuel out of the contaminated oil.

PE is polyethylene. NOT what you want for an HDPE tank. That is high density polyethylene. Heard you CAN use LDPE or low density polyethylene ON HDPE tanks. Just match the tank material TO your rod. Easy pze.

What type of plastic are the rods? Just says 75 plastic rods.

Don't waste your time and money on JB. Get some plastic welding rods. SAME material as the tank. I'm fixing my trimmer tank waiting on some HDPE rods. Look on yours for the material type. Should be HDPE??? If so, these are very slick plastics. Getting at epoxies don't stick well even scuffing...

Most have a fancy circuit chip you can't test with common tools. It either sparks at low, mid and high revs or not. This ain't the space shuttle fella's.

Go ahead and start your own post please. Thank you........

Go to youtube. Search Jim Jackson. Dude has tons of great Snapper RER videos. This is NOT the video that shows you how to fix yours. Just a simple introduction to Jim Jackson. https://www.partstree.com/models/25066-81007-snapper-25-rear-engine-riding-mower-6hp Looks like it has been...

Put a rag down to catch the gas. Drop the bowl. Would be nice if you had a shut off valve to control the gas leak. Look at the float and see when it closes off the fuel. Float arm should be parallel or just under parallel to the bowl mounting flange. By just under I mean the float shuts off...

Cover the new switch in marine grade shrink wrap. Has glue that ooozes out when you shrink it down. Seals both ends from moisture and future corrosion. This is an ultra low amperage slash voltage circuit. No issues of overheating. Just grounds the coil out when killing the key/engine...

Did you check the float height? People never do this one.

Set it for 4 smoke engines.

If you don't have the correct tool just make one as you did.

Funny how insurance companies allegedly give women cheaper rates because they are "better" drivers than men. Why is it at ever wreck we all see some woman on her cell calling mommy? Think the cheaper rate deal and women is and was a sales gimmick. Are they really getting lower rates...

Also if you think about it, trying to mulch AND get a clean cut doesn't work. Simply side sling and get the clippings out of the cutting edges way. Be like using a clogged up double edge razor with a heavy beard growth. Best looking lawn cutting is the old school bagging method. Mulching...

New blades are never sharp. They typically have paint all over. These are not double edge shaving blades. Can you mow with new blades, yes. Most people think shining the bevel with some magic wonder tool of the week grinder is sharp enough. Once the bevel shines they are done. Never even...

An immediate engine kill, look for a bare spot or mice chewed wired on the coil kill wire. Check the harness from key to coils. All the safeties too. Some wire is shorting out on you. If your carb has an after-fire solenoid on the bottom of the bowl, test it. Connect 12 volts to the two wire...