Search results

Push mowers for you and the entire family. Great way to spend more time with the family. You will all love the free exercise too. Get about 4 or 5 pushers out there and in no time the grass is cut. Much easier to work on. Use way less fuel than some car priced 0 turn. Lord knows we all could...

Tells me for sure a backpack. You will be doing hand swapping/tossing/cramping exercises constantly with a yard that size. I have a 1/3 of an acre in the city. Would never even look at a hand job. Course I'm on the end of the block with three streets to edge and such. I actually have a Ryobi...

Something is not making sense here. What is the pump amp draw engine on and off? Getting crazy values engine on. DC amp clamp time.

Wondering if this is some added on pump? Sounds like she is massively drawing the battery down.

Tells me the "new" regulator is bad. Diodes are leaking/conducting. Send it back to China.

Which one of these fuel can spouts/nozzles do you have? This is where it alllllll starts.

Something popping a 20 amp fuse is big. Some wire probably inside a connector has a bad connection. Takes 2 minutes to get hot cranking up the resistance in said charging circuit smashing the fuse. What are we talking about here? Charging coil, regulator, wire and connectors? Is the regulator...

Never seen any coil recommendation of 11. Most are 0.006" to 0.010". If you knew how weak these coils really are you might set it for 0.006". Take a measuring caliper to some junk mail. Most are way over 6 thou. Old wisdom was use a business card. Those can be over 20 thou.

Are you going to ask why it was not starting cold? Or just wanted a free fix?

Wound up in a thrift store. Tells me the carb diaphragm is hard as a carp needing replaced.

Which cable specifically? Take a picture of it and post it here. Sounds like a loose and or corroded connector??

How large of a gap did the spark jump in LOW light conditions? New plug doesn't mean it works. New doesn't mean new these days. Recommend non resistor plugs for small engines. Coils are normally so weak, barely enough spark to run compared to car/truck ignitions for sure. If the engine dies it...

That is pretty far. If you can get a 1/4 of a turn that is pushing it. Most are what 13-15ft lbs of torque? Heads are aluminum.

RTV is so yesterday. People are brainwashed into using it. Thinking it is the only sealant out there. Also cheaper on the wallet. Been talking about a better way of doing chores like this. A non hardening sealant made for oily flanges. No scrape clean ups. Way easier than any RTV of choice...

Waiting on the "go buy some grade 8 or tungsten carbide bolts" crowd LOL. (y) Maybe some ARP 9000 wonder bolts. Sounds like the bolts are not tight enough. Mowers have a ton of vibration and get bumped around during mowing. Buy new bolts and orange thread lock them in. Proper torque spec might...

One could use an old inductive timing light to "see" spark down the plug wire. Doesn't mean there is enough spark to run. Need an open gap tester or a simple 12 volt DC test light. Need minimum 0.25" spark jumping gap to run.

Stop shopping on amazon and fleabay. Plugs are highly pirated in the motherland (China).

Have a welder fix them back. Drop them off at your local vo-tech or high school welding shop.

Why don't you clean the cooling fins so it doesn't do this? Heard somewhere you are to clean the fins at least yearly or more often. Can't recall where it was.

Not in 1992. These were the real Snappers that have cut more grass than Willie Nelson has seen. "Walmart began selling Snapper-labeled mowers on January 17, 2013, following an announcement by owner Briggs & Stratton."

I'm unfamiliar to this machine. What is that red SQUARE light that is ON all the time to the right of the throttle lever?

So you knowing this tid bit, take a DC amp clamp around the red wire to the fuel pump solenoid what ever this is supposed to be. Measure the amp draw at a min 30 and 2 minutes in. Any drastic increases will show you the way. Or does it take 2 minutes for "something" to get hot, increasing the...

I would start there too. (y)

I have no clue about your carb or engine. Would guess at if the carb has no pilot circuit then it was not made to idle like a car engine. Probably a set RPM at 3400rpm guessing. Check the highly overlooked float height level.

Going with "what is a fuel level sensor for $400 Alex".

Unless it is a coincidence same part failure on the new part. Total shot in the dark. Still think there is some wire issue too.

Start disconnecting items until there is no more shorting slash blowing fuses going on. Test every wire and connector on BOTH SIDES for continuity/shorts/opens. Test the fuse holder and across it WITH a proper amp rated fuse. Remember all circuits needs LOAD testing at max amp draw. Use a clamp...

Find out where the short is and fix it. Go wire by wire ciruit x circuit.

I'm all confused now.

And 600 million plus people don't do oil dumps on mowers. I hear what you are saying though. (y)

Starting fluid or Ether is NOT advised to use for this. Simply use fresh gas and 2 stroke oil mix in a pump sprayer or what ever type bottle you like. Will work on every 4 stroke and 2 stroke engine know to us all. Boats, cars, air planes, mower, big rigs and so on.

Only about 600 million plus mowers, probably a ton more out there with no oil filter at all. All running just fine.

Be careful about the static electricity that can develop inside the shop vac hose and the gasoline.

If it was mine, oil and filter dumps after three successive mows, stretch to 10 hours a few mows then twice a year regardless of hours/time/operational cycles. Oil is cheap compared to a new Diesel engine and labor. You must get all that break in metal out. Your first few dumps will have heavy...

Pull the kill wires off the coils. IF the coils are good, should run the fuel tank dry. Ground the clamp end TO the engine block. Other pointed end hunt around the plug boot for spark. If you have spark from the coils only, move the pointed end away from the plug boot. This will check max gap...

OP doesn't have spark.

OP doesn't have spark.

OP doesn't have spark.

Did I see the blades turning while cranking? Are those hydro fans or what? I'm not familiar with that mower. Why are they turning while cranking?

NAW it ain't so....... LOL If the air filter is glazed over then look at the cooling fins.

At 3600 which I see no issues with, she will drink more gas. Same as adding high lift heavy blades.

If available, one could, reluctantly, take the proper size as Star Tech is saying and as the Okies say woller out a high altitude jet too. If the main jets are NLA, look for HA jets.

Some you can being plastic some not. Heat gun on LOW gently holding the pieces till they cool.

Look at the carb needle and seat. Need to pressure test both making sure you are not flooding past the carb needle/seat. Pull the oil stick and SMELL for fuel. If you smell gas, repair the needle/seat. Needle/seat must pass a pressure test for 30 minutes. Check carb float height. Most are set...

Now, you need to ask WHY this occurred. Was this from plugged up cooling fins or simple threads backing out? Or both? Do you have weak spark? Do a spark test AT NIGHT or very low light. Look for yellow spark, preferred blue or purple zaps. Rich running could be weak spark. Or someone been in...

All engines are good, until they break. Then most declare to never buy say a Briggs again. Keep up on the maintenance and run her hard.

Is that for a big block Ford stroker motor at $4500? Amazing. Say it out loud forty five hundred dollars for a lawn mower engine. Nothing but price gouging.

Just to be wordage precise, that should be, the after-fire solenoid. Stops fuel from flowing into the main jet getting sucked into the engine with no spark hitting that hot muffler going BANG!! Glad she is running again.

Outdoor ambient temp is always tested for in the shade. In peak summer like now, add another 25-30 degrees F on to that temp value. Sun wants to play too.

Every time you hear someone say oh just add thicker oil....... beware.