Good value torque wrenches without breaking the bank?

StarTech said:

I haven't of any that goes to 240. But here is good brand to buy.

https://www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6-LX-181/dp/B07M68FY3X/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2S75MN8EHYK02&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.NuMAe6llD2AMdQHPEIOp3a6W49mIYLql7_gzQzwXgrhd-j0SbD9oiAtD2XNyiEpX4N8MZrAJRiftjE3v9neEuLfDo0DquM02NiFyQhcIMnz7vwzJM5P2-_pSHHqvsFgIiD7Ni0hWuWk13q_iDq7GJ_85fiqOOB1MBjhjAIYU5G6u3PZTFtpummWjvrc2bRUouh53Q8O4bhzoBRdY15xoe2gyCAINWENmC1pCefwaUyRbcwf83hPCf3bjdIyy9rO0J9GceSu-3-O-0M90ZspMdg85MXHCfzzOYELJeT8GqM0.Q3OL0__ZlsIm8uXdYzMbwxJLHCqi2MZBKsqFfoRi1cQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=inch+pound+wrench&qid=1728236858&sprefix=%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-6

Also any torque should be stored unloaded. plus for above 120 convert ft-lbs (120in/lbs / 12 = 10 ft/lbs and use a 3/8 drive version reduced to 1/4 drive.

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Gym123 said:

The question of "What should I do if it doesn't meet spec?" needs to be considered, too. That's the main thing preventing me buying a used torque wrench- repairing isn't cheap.

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biggertv said:

Perfect calibration is not needed for lawn equipment. the key is Consistency. As long as All head or sump Bolts are Torqued to the Same Value, a couple of inch-pounds off won't hurt.

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Gym123 said:

I had been rebuilding a Trek road bike and don't have a torque wrench that can read inch-lb, so I used the 'good and snug' method but last week, I got an Ariens riding mower with a bad head gasket and the torque is more important for reinstalling the head. I had bought a Pittsburgh wrench from Harbor freight but since the bike went on the back burner, never used it until Friday and when I was tightening the first bolt, it never clicked. I have seen a lot of videos showing people using that wrench and they received good reviews, but I don't think customers should have to do Quality Control testing for any manufacturer unless they pay us in some way. I also don't like the need to turn the handle three times through its range from low to high and turning the sleeve felt like I was scraping the thread into a new piece of metal- the first replacement had grease coming out and it was very hard to turn. I tested the first one by putting a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and clamping it in my vise to check it at the lowest torque setting and it never clicked. It actually broke the adapter that I had used for decades- I had ground off some material so it could be used once and it never failed until I was testing the wrench.

I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.

To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.

Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.

I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.

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rickfischer51 said:

Beam wrenches are great. My father worked for Sturtevant and taught me how to torque a bolt when I was 12. I have several Sturtevant beam wrenches from 1/4 drive 80 inch-gram to a 3/4 drive 300 foot-pounder. Also have Cleco ratchet clicker wrenches. I check the Clecos on a beam wrench with a 8-point socket, and also with a digital tester I picked up on ebay. Everything calibrates well to the beam wrenches, at least so far. They say clickers need to have the torque setting backed off after use to stay accurate, and dont use them to loosen tight bolts. If I'm doing something critical, like head bolts, I use a clicker in ten ft-lb increments, but use a beam wrench for the final torque increment. Beam wrenches are cheap, reliable and fool proof. But the clicker ratchet wenches are so convenient. Had a Sturtevant beam wrench with a ratchet on the end once, but it grew legs.

Also, just as critical to accuracy as the wrench is thread condition. Clean the bolts and what ever they screw into. That means threads, bearing surfaces, washers and nuts. If a thread compound or lube is recommended, use it. I spent 6 months in a fastener lab doing torque-tension testing, and thread prep can make a huge difference. Remember, the torque is irrelevant. Its the tension in the body of the bolt produced by the torque. We measure torque because its convenient.

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