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Good value torque wrenches without breaking the bank?
#1
G
Gym123
G
Gym123
I had been rebuilding a Trek road bike and don't have a torque wrench that can read inch-lb, so I used the 'good and snug' method but last week, I got an Ariens riding mower with a bad head gasket and the torque is more important for reinstalling the head. I had bought a Pittsburgh wrench from Harbor freight but since the bike went on the back burner, never used it until Friday and when I was tightening the first bolt, it never clicked. I have seen a lot of videos showing people using that wrench and they received good reviews, but I don't think customers should have to do Quality Control testing for any manufacturer unless they pay us in some way. I also don't like the need to turn the handle three times through its range from low to high and turning the sleeve felt like I was scraping the thread into a new piece of metal- the first replacement had grease coming out and it was very hard to turn. I tested the first one by putting a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and clamping it in my vise to check it at the lowest torque setting and it never clicked. It actually broke the adapter that I had used for decades- I had ground off some material so it could be used once and it never failed until I was testing the wrench.
I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.
To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.
Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.
I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.
I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.
To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.
Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.
I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Many of the auto parts stores have free loaner programs for tools which you don’t use very often. Far cheaper that purchasing new.
#4
StarTech
StarTech
I haven't of any that goes to 240. But here is good brand to buy.
Also any torque should be stored unloaded. plus for above 120 convert ft-lbs (120in/lbs / 12 = 10 ft/lbs and use a 3/8 drive version reduced to 1/4 drive.
Also any torque should be stored unloaded. plus for above 120 convert ft-lbs (120in/lbs / 12 = 10 ft/lbs and use a 3/8 drive version reduced to 1/4 drive.
#5
A
Auto Doc's
A
Auto Doc's
If you want good results doing precision work, invest in your tools. Even a used one on Ebay that can be verified by an actual owner is much better than buying a mass-produced piece of junk. I have many tools from Harbor Freight, but I will not use their torque wrenches.
Most parts stores have tool catalogs that you can buy decent quality torque wrenches from. NAPA has always been a good source for me.
Most parts stores have tool catalogs that you can buy decent quality torque wrenches from. NAPA has always been a good source for me.
#6
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
I will put my Metallurgists hat & dustcoat back on and make a very bold statement that will give 95% of the people here the shits big time .
The only tension wrench worth buying are the deflecting beam type as shown in the catalogue page below
deflecting beam tension wrenches
All of those ratchet style ones are shit and almost none are ever correct even if you do what no one ever does and back them off PAST the zero mark so there is no load on the spring
I bought a Repco branded 6" W & B wrench when I was 16 ( I am well over 70 now ) and it is still within 1% .
All of the micrometer adjustment ones are garbage unless they come with a signed original calibration certificate and for that you are talking 4 figures .
The spring loaded ratchet wrenches are for garbage mechanics who can not be bothered to lift the wrench off the fastener to take a second bike or so crippled they cannot manage to walk over to their tool box twice, ones for the standard ratchet then the second time for the tension wrench .
FWIW , I have 4 W & B deflecting beam tension wrenched and the last time we checked all were correct
The landlord , who takes meticulous care of his tools to the point he still has both the box & the carton that his tension wrench came in broke 2 head studs on the tractor and the repair cost over $ 300 in parts .
He put it down to the old studs never being removed and being 60 years old but when I ran his wrench against mine it was reading 40 % low at 120 ft lbs .
While my wrench when measured against his brand new W & B was spot on .
If you want to have some fun cut a 3" length off the end of a 3/4" allan key
Arm yourself with 2 x 3/4 impact sockets then go to your favourite tool supplier grab 2 tension wrenches set them to the same spec slip on the sockets then work them against each other . You will be lucky to find 2 that are within 10% of each other .
Jus like idiots who post their coil resistance was 22.3251 Ω because they have no idea about electricity . Ignorant clowns think because the tension wrench can be set to 224.5 in lbs it must be so much more accurate that the coarse scales on a deflecting beam.
Torques are only an approximation and the real number depends upon the slop in the fasteners, the materials, the presence / absence of lubricants and of course the weather & the temperature of the fastener and what it is holding together and of course the type of thread & the pitch of the thread & dimeter of the fastener and the surface area under the fastener, the size of the washers and a whole host of variables that have not come to mind at the moment .
The only tension wrench worth buying are the deflecting beam type as shown in the catalogue page below
deflecting beam tension wrenches
All of those ratchet style ones are shit and almost none are ever correct even if you do what no one ever does and back them off PAST the zero mark so there is no load on the spring
I bought a Repco branded 6" W & B wrench when I was 16 ( I am well over 70 now ) and it is still within 1% .
All of the micrometer adjustment ones are garbage unless they come with a signed original calibration certificate and for that you are talking 4 figures .
The spring loaded ratchet wrenches are for garbage mechanics who can not be bothered to lift the wrench off the fastener to take a second bike or so crippled they cannot manage to walk over to their tool box twice, ones for the standard ratchet then the second time for the tension wrench .
FWIW , I have 4 W & B deflecting beam tension wrenched and the last time we checked all were correct
The landlord , who takes meticulous care of his tools to the point he still has both the box & the carton that his tension wrench came in broke 2 head studs on the tractor and the repair cost over $ 300 in parts .
He put it down to the old studs never being removed and being 60 years old but when I ran his wrench against mine it was reading 40 % low at 120 ft lbs .
While my wrench when measured against his brand new W & B was spot on .
If you want to have some fun cut a 3" length off the end of a 3/4" allan key
Arm yourself with 2 x 3/4 impact sockets then go to your favourite tool supplier grab 2 tension wrenches set them to the same spec slip on the sockets then work them against each other . You will be lucky to find 2 that are within 10% of each other .
Jus like idiots who post their coil resistance was 22.3251 Ω because they have no idea about electricity . Ignorant clowns think because the tension wrench can be set to 224.5 in lbs it must be so much more accurate that the coarse scales on a deflecting beam.
Torques are only an approximation and the real number depends upon the slop in the fasteners, the materials, the presence / absence of lubricants and of course the weather & the temperature of the fastener and what it is holding together and of course the type of thread & the pitch of the thread & dimeter of the fastener and the surface area under the fastener, the size of the washers and a whole host of variables that have not come to mind at the moment .
#7
StarTech
StarTech
As said HFT click torque wrenches have become junk. Here I like to check my torque click wrenches a couple time during the year for accuracy against my digital toque adapter. I finally gave up on the HFT ones they were so far off new. Nearly all current toque are with 1% or better. and that includes the LH ones which I rarely use. I have a couple HFT from 15 yrs that are accurate but I have return every one that I have brought in the last 3 yrs as they all failed to even be within 10%.
Now as the visual bear type is better but for me it hard to hold, pull, and look all the dame time in especial awkward positions. This is where many of us use these clickers.
It comes down how accurate they are, how we care for them, and how we use them.
Here is an example of not correctly using something correctly. Bullet proof glass does no good if it is not between you and the sniper. Boy are people dumb. What a waste tax payer money.
Even the Pope Mobile had better protection.
Now as the visual bear type is better but for me it hard to hold, pull, and look all the dame time in especial awkward positions. This is where many of us use these clickers.
It comes down how accurate they are, how we care for them, and how we use them.
Here is an example of not correctly using something correctly. Bullet proof glass does no good if it is not between you and the sniper. Boy are people dumb. What a waste tax payer money.
Even the Pope Mobile had better protection.
#8
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
I am not building the space shuttle. About the only thing i use a torque wrench on is head bolts, rod bolts and sump covers. I have 1/2" and 3/8" Tekton clicker wrenches that get the same readings as my old beam wrench. If i am off a little it hasn't been a problem yet. It's a lawnmower not the space shuttle.
#9
StarTech
StarTech
Even with mower engines we are at times putting screws and threading to their limits so you definitely don't want to over torque. An example is the Briggs Intek OHV 31 and 33 sumps. When Briggs increase the torque values for these sump screws I have been having a few to pull (strip) the threads. Which why I had to start using Heli Coils in the first pace here. Another reason I buy sump gaskets in multiples.
One of most useful clicker is the inch pound ones which I now have one that goes down to 5 inch pounds as I was bad snapping off small screws or crushing plastic parts.
One of most useful clicker is the inch pound ones which I now have one that goes down to 5 inch pounds as I was bad snapping off small screws or crushing plastic parts.
#10
G
Gym123
I checked- none of the ones that are close had anything for loan, or the in-lb type. One store isn't even open on Sundays.
G
Gym123
Many of the auto parts stores have free loaner programs for tools which you don’t use very often. Far cheaper that purchasing new.
I checked- none of the ones that are close had anything for loan, or the in-lb type. One store isn't even open on Sundays.
#11
G
Gym123
Bolt hardness, intended or work-hardened, makes a big difference, too. I looked at the head bolts and they appear to be Grade 3 and because these need 140-180 in-lb (according to their data sheet) the head bolts are likely soft enough that the expansion of the head & block needs them to be relatively soft, so they can elongate. OTOH, the thread goes deep into the block, so any expansion is in a short region near the mating surface.
I bought a torque adapter, but checked out the Ikon wrench- the barrel turns much more smoothly but I really didn't want to drop $120 for something I won't use often. I was looking on ebay, FB marketplace, rummage sales, etc for a used one but then, can I really be sure it wasn't dropped/abused? When it comes to tools that need to be precise, I don't assume anything other than "if it's so cheap, it can't be very good".
G
Gym123
Some of the self-appointed tool testers on YouTube bought torque wrench testers, at least one was from SnapOn and it cost more than $2K. They say they cycled the torque wrenches 1000 times, but it's three times at each setting. I had my SnapOn wrench tested on their tester in a dealer's truck and found that it's 5% off@100 ft-lb.If you want to have some fun cut a 3" length off the end of a 3/4" allan key
Arm yourself with 2 x 3/4 impact sockets then go to your favourite tool supplier grab 2 tension wrenches set them to the same spec slip on the sockets then work them against each other . You will be lucky to find 2 that are within 10% of each other .
Jus like idiots who post their coil resistance was 22.3251 Ω because they have no idea about electricity . Ignorant clowns think because the tension wrench can be set to 224.5 in lbs it must be so much more accurate that the coarse scales on a deflecting beam.
Torques are only an approximation and the real number depends upon the slop in the fasteners, the materials, the presence / absence of lubricants and of course the weather & the temperature of the fastener and what it is holding together and of course the type of thread & the pitch of the thread & dimeter of the fastener and the surface area under the fastener, the size of the washers and a whole host of variables that have not come to mind at the moment .
Bolt hardness, intended or work-hardened, makes a big difference, too. I looked at the head bolts and they appear to be Grade 3 and because these need 140-180 in-lb (according to their data sheet) the head bolts are likely soft enough that the expansion of the head & block needs them to be relatively soft, so they can elongate. OTOH, the thread goes deep into the block, so any expansion is in a short region near the mating surface.
I bought a torque adapter, but checked out the Ikon wrench- the barrel turns much more smoothly but I really didn't want to drop $120 for something I won't use often. I was looking on ebay, FB marketplace, rummage sales, etc for a used one but then, can I really be sure it wasn't dropped/abused? When it comes to tools that need to be precise, I don't assume anything other than "if it's so cheap, it can't be very good".
#12
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
Take your pick
#13
G
Gym123
I was also looking for a dial type, but the ones I saw don't go past 125 in-lb. I don't like loaning my tools and definitely don't loan any that need to be precise, like torque wrench, micrometers, levels, etc. I had initially used my short 1/4" ratchet and found that I was very close by using that and the 'good & snug' method before using the Quinn torque adapter, which tested well. It runs great and no longer smokes. Being familiar with the feel of tightening fasteners into cast iron/steel vs Aluminum is important.
I guess the Secretsquirrels Service had checked for snipers.......
G
Gym123
If you were referring to my comment about HFT torque wrenches,. I would clarify that I only meant the Pittsburgh I had bought, but they sell three sizes and I didn't check the others, Quinn or Ikon (other than the small one as I posted).As said HFT click torque wrenches have become junk. Here I like to check my torque click wrenches a couple time during the year for accuracy against my digital toque adapter. I finally gave up on the HFT ones they were so far off new. Nearly all current toque are with 1% or better. and that includes the LH ones which I rarely use. I have a couple HFT from 15 yrs that are accurate but I have return every one that I have brought in the last 3 yrs as they all failed to even be within 10%.
Now as the visual bear type is better but for me it hard to hold, pull, and look all the dame time in especial awkward positions. This is where many of us use these clickers.
It comes down how accurate they are, how we care for them, and how we use them.
Here is an example of not correctly using something correctly. Bullet proof glass does no good if it is not between you and the sniper. Boy are people dumb. What a waste tax payer money.
View attachment 69799
Even the Pope Mobile had better protection.
I was also looking for a dial type, but the ones I saw don't go past 125 in-lb. I don't like loaning my tools and definitely don't loan any that need to be precise, like torque wrench, micrometers, levels, etc. I had initially used my short 1/4" ratchet and found that I was very close by using that and the 'good & snug' method before using the Quinn torque adapter, which tested well. It runs great and no longer smokes. Being familiar with the feel of tightening fasteners into cast iron/steel vs Aluminum is important.
I guess the Secret
#14
G
Gym123
G
Gym123
The one that didn't work looks like the one at the left, without the tickers- what brand is yours?
#15
G
Gym123
G
Gym123
When I was servicing ski boats, I had a couple of very small Brass raw water pump cover bolts break off in the housings, but since they weren't threaded to the point where they jammed into the bottom of the hole, they were easy to remove. Steel would have been a royal PITA but all I needed to do is drill a shallow hole, tap a precision screwdriver in and turn it out by hand. I learned to detect that slight squeak- I think they should use a different material for the bolts.Even with mower engines we are at times putting screws and threading to their limits so you definitely don't want to over torque. An example is the Briggs Intek OHV 31 and 33 sumps. When Briggs increase the torque values for these sump screws I have been having a few to pull (strip) the threads. Which why I had to start using Heli Coils in the first pace here. Another reason I buy sump gaskets in multiples.
One of most useful clicker is the inch pound ones which I now have one that goes down to 5 inch pounds as I was bad snapping off small screws or crushing plastic parts.
#16
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
The 3/8 is a Tekton. Works good compared to other ones.The one that didn't work looks like the one at the left, without the tickers- what brand is it?
#17
J
jabone
One thing VERY Important do not leave the torque wrench with a load on it, in other words release the tension to 0 on the torque wrench before putting it away.
J
jabone
I do not know in the USA but here in Canada their is different vendors for torque wrenches. I think you still have Sears (bank rupt in Canada) they have torques, Snapon a little expensive but good quality. To go inch/lbs you need a 1/4" or 3/8" drive. You can try this, tighten the bolt or nut with clean engine oil until it abuts and turn 1/4 turn more. This should bring very close the torque rating that you need!I had been rebuilding a Trek road bike and don't have a torque wrench that can read inch-lb, so I used the 'good and snug' method but last week, I got an Ariens riding mower with a bad head gasket and the torque is more important for reinstalling the head. I had bought a Pittsburgh wrench from Harbor freight but since the bike went on the back burner, never used it until Friday and when I was tightening the first bolt, it never clicked. I have seen a lot of videos showing people using that wrench and they received good reviews, but I don't think customers should have to do Quality Control testing for any manufacturer unless they pay us in some way. I also don't like the need to turn the handle three times through its range from low to high and turning the sleeve felt like I was scraping the thread into a new piece of metal- the first replacement had grease coming out and it was very hard to turn. I tested the first one by putting a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and clamping it in my vise to check it at the lowest torque setting and it never clicked. It actually broke the adapter that I had used for decades- I had ground off some material so it could be used once and it never failed until I was testing the wrench.
I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.
To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.
Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.
I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.
One thing VERY Important do not leave the torque wrench with a load on it, in other words release the tension to 0 on the torque wrench before putting it away.
#18
J
jabone
I am a retired jet engine assembler and learned a few tricks. I all ways take an aluminum drift and strike the nut or head of the bolt before trying to remove or break the torque.
Hope this is useful to anyone.
J
jabone
When you know that the broken bolt did not bottom out, you can go to a tool place and buy a left drill bit. With a bit of release oil and drilling left or reverse the broken bots should come out no problem as soon as you start drilling.When I was servicing ski boats, I had a couple of very small Brass raw water pump cover bolts break off in the housings, but since they weren't threaded to the point where they jammed into the bottom of the hole, they were easy to remove. Steel would have been a royal PITA but all I needed to do is drill a shallow hole, tap a precision screwdriver in and turn it out by hand. I learned to detect that slight squeak- I think they should use a different material for the bolts.
I am a retired jet engine assembler and learned a few tricks. I all ways take an aluminum drift and strike the nut or head of the bolt before trying to remove or break the torque.
Hope this is useful to anyone.
#19
S
slomo
S
slomo
I like the old school beam style. Like that Craftsman second from the right in the picture above.
None of us operate a calibration truck. Get what you like.
None of us operate a calibration truck. Get what you like.
#20
woodstover
woodstover
Personally, I wouldn't trust a parts store loaned out torque wrench, ever.
#21
S
Skippydiesel
S
Skippydiesel
I have one, expensive, hopefully accurate, torque wrench. Several chepos and two of the digital adapter style. When I have a torque job, I "calibrate" the wrench I am going to use, against the expensive one and go to work.
Note: The digital adapters do not "click/break" but do have a rising warning sound, that tells you when the preset torque value is getting close/on the mark.
Note: The digital adapters do not "click/break" but do have a rising warning sound, that tells you when the preset torque value is getting close/on the mark.
#22
G
Gym123
Hitting the bolt is great, especially if it had rusted- PB Blaster, to the rescue!
G
Gym123
That would take too much time- I was on the clock and was either winterizing or summerizing, so I didn't have time for anything other than improvising.When you know that the broken bolt did not bottom out, you can go to a tool place and buy a left drill bit. With a bit of release oil and drilling left or reverse the broken bots should come out no problem as soon as you start drilling.
I am a retired jet engine assembler and learned a few tricks. I all ways take an aluminum drift and strike the nut or head of the bolt before trying to remove or break the torque.
Hope this is useful to anyone.
Hitting the bolt is great, especially if it had rusted- PB Blaster, to the rescue!
#23
B
bullet bob
B
bullet bob
Surely when you said "20-240 inch-pounds" you meant FOOT POUNDS?I had been rebuilding a Trek road bike and don't have a torque wrench that can read inch-lb, so I used the 'good and snug' method but last week, I got an Ariens riding mower with a bad head gasket and the torque is more important for reinstalling the head. I had bought a Pittsburgh wrench from Harbor freight but since the bike went on the back burner, never used it until Friday and when I was tightening the first bolt, it never clicked. I have seen a lot of videos showing people using that wrench and they received good reviews, but I don't think customers should have to do Quality Control testing for any manufacturer unless they pay us in some way. I also don't like the need to turn the handle three times through its range from low to high and turning the sleeve felt like I was scraping the thread into a new piece of metal- the first replacement had grease coming out and it was very hard to turn. I tested the first one by putting a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and clamping it in my vise to check it at the lowest torque setting and it never clicked. It actually broke the adapter that I had used for decades- I had ground off some material so it could be used once and it never failed until I was testing the wrench.
I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.
To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.
Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.
I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.
#24
G
Gym123
I had forgotten about bikes being mostly Metric and when I went to a local bike store for a headset bearing, I asked for 1", which resulted in a confused look from the guy. He came back and said "Sorry, I only have them in 25.4mm- I don't know what that is, in inches.". I calmly said "It's one inch.".
That guy couldn't have been older than early- 20s- do schools no longer try to teach the Metric System and how to convert to Imperial measurement?
G
Gym123
Nope- I saw several with that rating and one from Lowe's is rated for 50-245 in-lb. There's nothing on a bicycle that would need a wrench that is calibrated for high ft-lb torque. Bikes are mainly in the Metric world, so it's usually Newton-Meters, but these have that scale, too.Surely when you said "20-240 inch-pounds" you meant FOOT POUNDS?
I had forgotten about bikes being mostly Metric and when I went to a local bike store for a headset bearing, I asked for 1", which resulted in a confused look from the guy. He came back and said "Sorry, I only have them in 25.4mm- I don't know what that is, in inches.". I calmly said "It's one inch.".
That guy couldn't have been older than early- 20s- do schools no longer try to teach the Metric System and how to convert to Imperial measurement?
#25
StarTech
Here's one. Go a place like Lowes or Home Depot and ask for a metric adjustable wrench. They run all over the place looking and only finding one that spec inches and come back saying they would need to order one.
StarTech
Nope the teachers are being told how to teach by the parents now days. You can't teach something the parents don't understand or don't want their kids to know.That guy couldn't have been older than early- 20s- do schools no longer try to teach the Metric System and how to convert to Imperial measurement?
Here's one. Go a place like Lowes or Home Depot and ask for a metric adjustable wrench. They run all over the place looking and only finding one that spec inches and come back saying they would need to order one.
#27
R
rdedrick
R
rdedrick
After setting your torque turn the screw in at the end of the handle. It should click then.I had been rebuilding a Trek road bike and don't have a torque wrench that can read inch-lb, so I used the 'good and snug' method but last week, I got an Ariens riding mower with a bad head gasket and the torque is more important for reinstalling the head. I had bought a Pittsburgh wrench from Harbor freight but since the bike went on the back burner, never used it until Friday and when I was tightening the first bolt, it never clicked. I have seen a lot of videos showing people using that wrench and they received good reviews, but I don't think customers should have to do Quality Control testing for any manufacturer unless they pay us in some way. I also don't like the need to turn the handle three times through its range from low to high and turning the sleeve felt like I was scraping the thread into a new piece of metal- the first replacement had grease coming out and it was very hard to turn. I tested the first one by putting a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and clamping it in my vise to check it at the lowest torque setting and it never clicked. It actually broke the adapter that I had used for decades- I had ground off some material so it could be used once and it never failed until I was testing the wrench.
I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.
To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.
Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.
I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.
#28
M
McBike
M
McBike
I worked at a company that had a cal lab. All of our torque drivers and wrenches had to be certified every 4 months. I brought in my 35 year old Craftsman 1/2" click wrench and tested it through the range and it was still in spec. I also had a $25 3/8" wrench. It was 20% high in the low range spot on in the middle and 20% low in the upper range. My motorcycle mechanic every 6 months cycles his 3 Snap On wrenches back to Snap On for re-certification.
#29
G
Grasswhore
G
Grasswhore
I once got a loaner at a O"reillys and when I opened the box at home, the head was all in pieces. Immediately brought it back, luckily I knew the manager personally so he didn't accuse ME of doing that, but was truly embarrassed and frustrated. Don't always trust the name brand loaner tool either !!Personally, I wouldn't trust a parts store loaned out torque wrench, ever.
#30
G
Gym123
G
Gym123
None of the wrenches we tested clicked, with or without the screw turned in. I know how these work and I actually read the instructions, which also show that the adjuster needs to be turned to the max setting and back to the lowest a total of three times. If anyone had been there to adjust them, their first conclusion would have been "Nothing precise about this". The adjuster on the replacement deposited grease on the barrel when it moved to the low end and it felt like it had been cross-threaded, disassembled and reassembled- it was grinding. The rest felt better, but still not like a good torque wrench should. The manager said he has the larger models, they work fine and that he had never seen this model not click.After setting your torque turn the screw in at the end of the handle. It should click then.
#32
1
13brian
1
13brian
My recommendation is to grab a digital adapter for your needs. Decent videos on YouTube from at least two different testers that showed AC Delco and Quinn to be quite accurate and very affordable. I own HF 1/2" ft/lb clicker, 3/8" Craftsman in/lb clicker, old Craftsman beam style and just recently AC Delco digital adapter.
#33
B
biggertv
B
biggertv
I am not building the space shuttle. About the only thing i use a torque wrench on is head bolts, rod bolts and sump covers. I have 1/2" and 3/8" Tekton clicker wrenches that get the same readings as my old beam wrench. If i am off a little it hasn't been a problem yet. It's a
Don't worry about accuracy too much. As long as they are Equal Torque and tight. Harbor freight tools have improved a lot over the years. I've got the 1/2 and 1/4 torque wrenches, never had a problem. Their colored sockets are tough.I had been rebuilding a Trek road bike and don't have a torque wrench that can read inch-lb, so I used the 'good and snug' method but last week, I got an Ariens riding mower with a bad head gasket and the torque is more important for reinstalling the head. I had bought a Pittsburgh wrench from Harbor freight but since the bike went on the back burner, never used it until Friday and when I was tightening the first bolt, it never clicked. I have seen a lot of videos showing people using that wrench and they received good reviews, but I don't think customers should have to do Quality Control testing for any manufacturer unless they pay us in some way. I also don't like the need to turn the handle three times through its range from low to high and turning the sleeve felt like I was scraping the thread into a new piece of metal- the first replacement had grease coming out and it was very hard to turn. I tested the first one by putting a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and clamping it in my vise to check it at the lowest torque setting and it never clicked. It actually broke the adapter that I had used for decades- I had ground off some material so it could be used once and it never failed until I was testing the wrench.
I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.
To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.
Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.
I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.
#35
M
MikeH62
M
MikeH62
I have used the same wrench you're describing for the last 10yrs and have never had a problem with it. Everyone gets a bad tool every once in awhile, just like buying a lemon car, it happens.I had been rebuilding a Trek road bike and don't have a torque wrench that can read inch-lb, so I used the 'good and snug' method but last week, I got an Ariens riding mower with a bad head gasket and the torque is more important for reinstalling the head. I had bought a Pittsburgh wrench from Harbor freight but since the bike went on the back burner, never used it until Friday and when I was tightening the first bolt, it never clicked. I have seen a lot of videos showing people using that wrench and they received good reviews, but I don't think customers should have to do Quality Control testing for any manufacturer unless they pay us in some way. I also don't like the need to turn the handle three times through its range from low to high and turning the sleeve felt like I was scraping the thread into a new piece of metal- the first replacement had grease coming out and it was very hard to turn. I tested the first one by putting a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and clamping it in my vise to check it at the lowest torque setting and it never clicked. It actually broke the adapter that I had used for decades- I had ground off some material so it could be used once and it never failed until I was testing the wrench.
I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.
To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.
Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.
I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.
#36
S
Skippydiesel
S
Skippydiesel
In my humble opinion, all Imperial measurements are the Devils Work - organically derived over hundreds of years. Illogical & confusing. Why anyone wants to stick with it is beyond my comprehension. GO METRIC!!!!That guy couldn't have been older than early- 20s- do schools no longer try to teach the Metric System and how to convert to Imperial measurement?
#37
StarTech
StarTech
There was a big push in the US schools back in the 70's to go metric and still the companies keep the SAE standard. Some because they were old school and too stubborn to change, others kept it because it did confuse others, others did both so the tool manufactures could sell a lot more tools, and the fasteners companies just keep new designs just so more tools has to brought by the mechanics. What is more confusing there not just the SAE and Metric systems out there, I have personally ran into the British system here and had to order dies and taps for a tractor I was repairing.
I have come to conclusion that all this is done to prevent civilians from working on their own equipment so they have come to shops for repairs. I do have to admit some civilians don't need to any where near tools. Some don't even know which end of a screwdriver to use.
BTW Kawasaki uses a 1/8-28 pipe thread tap and die for the oil pressure senders which is British threading. And their tap hole is smaller than the SAE 1/8-27 hole.
And I am beginning to see the new Pentagon (five sided) head screws, more dang tools I have to buy. 10K in tools and still don't all that I need.
I used to live near Huntsville, AL, a NASA located city. You would think with NASA using metrics you could find metric fasteners and tools easily but you can't so end up ordering my tools and fasteners out of state.
And what worst is the tool sets that I buy are missing certain sizes, making me have pay more to get them. I only got one set of wrenches that goes from 8 to 30mm without skipping a size and it does comes in handy too.
I have come to conclusion that all this is done to prevent civilians from working on their own equipment so they have come to shops for repairs. I do have to admit some civilians don't need to any where near tools. Some don't even know which end of a screwdriver to use.
BTW Kawasaki uses a 1/8-28 pipe thread tap and die for the oil pressure senders which is British threading. And their tap hole is smaller than the SAE 1/8-27 hole.
And I am beginning to see the new Pentagon (five sided) head screws, more dang tools I have to buy. 10K in tools and still don't all that I need.
I used to live near Huntsville, AL, a NASA located city. You would think with NASA using metrics you could find metric fasteners and tools easily but you can't so end up ordering my tools and fasteners out of state.
And what worst is the tool sets that I buy are missing certain sizes, making me have pay more to get them. I only got one set of wrenches that goes from 8 to 30mm without skipping a size and it does comes in handy too.
#38
G
Gym123
'Shade tree mechanics' have, and will always, exist. People who are mechanically inclined have always been able to figure out how to repair things, but DIY shows have made people think "If they can do it, I can, too" without remembering that they had no background in it and not only do they not know which screwdriver to use, they don't know which end to pound on.
I have worked with people like that and seeing them try to use tools is like, well, it's hard to describe- the way they hold and handle tools just looks weird.
I was one of the kids who was taught Metric, starting in 1970. I use it all the time, along with SAE/Imperial measurement and we were taught to be open-minded about it, which makes us the polar opposite of the factory workers who were absolutely against it. My dad was one of those and he would invite some of the guys from where he worked to the house to shoot pool and drink beer- they were all against it and there I was, trying to explain why it's good and how it's useful. Crickets. Angry crickets. I gave up. I have a big problem when someone decides that they don't want to learn something.
I don't know why anyone would use a five-sided head, but I have seen conical heads with three small slots- Chrysler used those for securing the radios in their vehicles, so I bought one after getting tired of using my side-cutter.
Aside from the in-lb torque wrench, I'm at the point where I don't need to run out for additional tools unless I see something and it catches my tool-addict eye.
The US is one of only a few countries that hasn't officially adopted the Metric system, although those units are used frequently- our speedometers, bottles and cans, etc have Metric units and they're seen as some kind of strange language by people who just don't understand.
G
Gym123
Metric was introduced as a way to prevent people working on their own stuff? Recent 'right to repair' legislation is an attempt to change that but it's beyond late.There was a big push in the US schools back in the 70's to go metric and still the companies keep the SAE standard. Some because they were old school and too stubborn to change, others kept it because it did confuse others, others did both so the tool manufactures could sell a lot more tools, and the fasteners companies just keep new designs just so more tools has to brought by the mechanics. What is more confusing there not just the SAE and Metric systems out there, I have personally ran into the British system here and had to order dies and taps for a tractor I was repairing.
I have come to conclusion that all this is done to prevent civilians from working on their own equipment so they have come to shops for repairs. I do have to admit some civilians don't need to any where near tools. Some don't even know which end of a screwdriver to use.
BTW Kawasaki uses a 1/8-28 pipe thread tap and die for the oil pressure senders which is British threading. And their tap hole is smaller than the SAE 1/8-27 hole.
And I am beginning to see the new Pentagon (five sided) head screws, more dang tools I have to buy. 10K in tools and still don't all that I need.
I used to live near Huntsville, AL, a NASA located city. You would think with NASA using metrics you could find metric fasteners and tools easily but you can't so end up ordering my tools and fasteners out of state.
And what worst is the tool sets that I buy are missing certain sizes, making me have pay more to get them. I only got one set of wrenches that goes from 8 to 30mm without skipping a size and it does comes in handy too.
'Shade tree mechanics' have, and will always, exist. People who are mechanically inclined have always been able to figure out how to repair things, but DIY shows have made people think "If they can do it, I can, too" without remembering that they had no background in it and not only do they not know which screwdriver to use, they don't know which end to pound on.
I have worked with people like that and seeing them try to use tools is like, well, it's hard to describe- the way they hold and handle tools just looks weird.I was one of the kids who was taught Metric, starting in 1970. I use it all the time, along with SAE/Imperial measurement and we were taught to be open-minded about it, which makes us the polar opposite of the factory workers who were absolutely against it. My dad was one of those and he would invite some of the guys from where he worked to the house to shoot pool and drink beer- they were all against it and there I was, trying to explain why it's good and how it's useful. Crickets. Angry crickets. I gave up. I have a big problem when someone decides that they don't want to learn something.
I don't know why anyone would use a five-sided head, but I have seen conical heads with three small slots- Chrysler used those for securing the radios in their vehicles, so I bought one after getting tired of using my side-cutter.
Aside from the in-lb torque wrench, I'm at the point where I don't need to run out for additional tools unless I see something and it catches my tool-addict eye.
The US is one of only a few countries that hasn't officially adopted the Metric system, although those units are used frequently- our speedometers, bottles and cans, etc have Metric units and they're seen as some kind of strange language by people who just don't understand.
#39
G
Gym123
But if you think about it, fractional measurements came about when most people couldn't read and many couldn't write, but they could make marks on a stick and divide it, visually- no calculations needed. Decide on a unit (usually by the King), in feet or inches, use it until a smaller increment is needed, then make a mark in the middle and see if it's correct. Divide it a few times more and pretty soon, someone has made it accurate to 1/64 of an inch.
WRT "sticking with it"- when the fastener sizes are used often enough, some people can look at it and grab the correct size the first time- I do that frequently and it's possible that in the back of my mind, I know it will be SAE or Metric, so I just grab one or the other. With the American auto manufacturers, all bets are off- they still use both.
Fractions are for seein', Metric is for thinkin' (paraphrased from Abe Simpson's comment, "This eye is for seein' and this one is for winkin' ") when he was talking with a woman.
If the tool fits the fastener, it really doesn't matter which system is used- one won't work better than the other. It really makes us spend a lot more money for tools, though.
G
Gym123
In my humble opinion, all Imperial measurements are the Devils Work - organically derived over hundreds of years. Illogical & confusing. Why anyone wants to stick with it is beyond my comprehension. GO METRIC!!!!
But if you think about it, fractional measurements came about when most people couldn't read and many couldn't write, but they could make marks on a stick and divide it, visually- no calculations needed. Decide on a unit (usually by the King), in feet or inches, use it until a smaller increment is needed, then make a mark in the middle and see if it's correct. Divide it a few times more and pretty soon, someone has made it accurate to 1/64 of an inch.
WRT "sticking with it"- when the fastener sizes are used often enough, some people can look at it and grab the correct size the first time- I do that frequently and it's possible that in the back of my mind, I know it will be SAE or Metric, so I just grab one or the other. With the American auto manufacturers, all bets are off- they still use both.
Fractions are for seein', Metric is for thinkin' (paraphrased from Abe Simpson's comment, "This eye is for seein' and this one is for winkin' ") when he was talking with a woman.
If the tool fits the fastener, it really doesn't matter which system is used- one won't work better than the other. It really makes us spend a lot more money for tools, though.
#40
S
Skippydiesel
S
Skippydiesel
Not just extras $$ on tools also weird fastener (nuts/bolts/screws) sizes in Imperial.
Check out aviator grade fasteners - keep your exposure short - too long and you will definitely go insane. Even those who use it all the time need to refer to charts & gauges to know for sure what fastener they need/are looking at.
Check out aviator grade fasteners - keep your exposure short - too long and you will definitely go insane. Even those who use it all the time need to refer to charts & gauges to know for sure what fastener they need/are looking at.
#41
T
TobyU
I used to use them to check and calibrate the clickers.
You don't have to unload the adjustment each time and you can drop them and not worry about them being off of the needle is on zero even you start.
This is a K.I.S.S situation. Lol
T
TobyU
You're right. The beam types are easy to keep calibrated and are the most likely to be and stay accurate.I will put my Metallurgists hat & dustcoat back on and make a very bold statement that will give 95% of the people here the shits big time .
The only tension wrench worth buying are the deflecting beam type as shown in the catalogue page below
deflecting beam tension wrenches
All of those ratchet style ones are shit and almost none are ever correct even if you do what no one ever does and back them off PAST the zero mark so there is no load on the spring
I bought a Repco branded 6" W & B wrench when I was 16 ( I am well over 70 now ) and it is still within 1% .
All of the micrometer adjustment ones are garbage unless they come with a signed original calibration certificate and for that you are talking 4 figures .
The spring loaded ratchet wrenches are for garbage mechanics who can not be bothered to lift the wrench off the fastener to take a second bike or so crippled they cannot manage to walk over to their tool box twice, ones for the standard ratchet then the second time for the tension wrench .
FWIW , I have 4 W & B deflecting beam tension wrenched and the last time we checked all were correct
The landlord , who takes meticulous care of his tools to the point he still has both the box & the carton that his tension wrench came in broke 2 head studs on the tractor and the repair cost over $ 300 in parts .
He put it down to the old studs never being removed and being 60 years old but when I ran his wrench against mine it was reading 40 % low at 120 ft lbs .
While my wrench when measured against his brand new W & B was spot on .
If you want to have some fun cut a 3" length off the end of a 3/4" allan key
Arm yourself with 2 x 3/4 impact sockets then go to your favourite tool supplier grab 2 tension wrenches set them to the same spec slip on the sockets then work them against each other . You will be lucky to find 2 that are within 10% of each other .
Jus like idiots who post their coil resistance was 22.3251 Ω because they have no idea about electricity . Ignorant clowns think because the tension wrench can be set to 224.5 in lbs it must be so much more accurate that the coarse scales on a deflecting beam.
Torques are only an approximation and the real number depends upon the slop in the fasteners, the materials, the presence / absence of lubricants and of course the weather & the temperature of the fastener and what it is holding together and of course the type of thread & the pitch of the thread & dimeter of the fastener and the surface area under the fastener, the size of the washers and a whole host of variables that have not come to mind at the moment .
I used to use them to check and calibrate the clickers.
You don't have to unload the adjustment each time and you can drop them and not worry about them being off of the needle is on zero even you start.
This is a K.I.S.S situation. Lol
#42
StarTech
StarTech
The only problem I have beam type is there are places that I torque where you cant see the beam and scale. Sometime you are simply not in a position to see things.
#43
S
Skippydiesel
S
Skippydiesel
TobyU
"The beam types are easy to keep calibrated and are the most likely to be and stay accurate.
I used to use them to check and calibrate the clickers."
Thanks for that - I have a beam type that I hardly ever use - next time I need to calibrate, will try your KISS!
StarTech
"The only problem I have beam type is there are places that I torque where you cant see the beam and scale. Sometime you are simply not in a position to see things."
Agreed 100%. A device that makes some sort of sound or break (feel) is so much easier to use.
"The beam types are easy to keep calibrated and are the most likely to be and stay accurate.
I used to use them to check and calibrate the clickers."
Thanks for that - I have a beam type that I hardly ever use - next time I need to calibrate, will try your KISS!
StarTech
"The only problem I have beam type is there are places that I torque where you cant see the beam and scale. Sometime you are simply not in a position to see things."
Agreed 100%. A device that makes some sort of sound or break (feel) is so much easier to use.
#44
H
Honest Abe
H
Honest Abe
Hmmm, quick ? - - - how many torque wrench users have their wrench recalibrated annually..... "silence"
#45
B
bullet bob
B
bullet bob
I figure I'm in the top 20% of shade-tree wrenchers that even use a torque wrench. Calibrate it? Ha!
#46
StarTech
StarTech
I would think very few even check these when they first get them trusting the manufacture to have done it. I once trusted them too until I got multiple units breaking screws/bolts. When I started testing this is when I found the cheap torque wrench from HFT were so far off it was ridiculous. This is when I started buying and testing even the certified ones. The current ones even have engraved serial numbers.
I also learned that they need to unload and stored away safely to prevent them losing their calibrations. So far they are staying within specs.
I still got to get myself a LH version of the 3/4 torque wrench but so far I haven't needed that would require the higher settings.
Now I have try using a version that only had a beeping sound and it just didn't work out for me as I ended up over torquing getting to solid sound.
I also learned that they need to unload and stored away safely to prevent them losing their calibrations. So far they are staying within specs.
I still got to get myself a LH version of the 3/4 torque wrench but so far I haven't needed that would require the higher settings.
Now I have try using a version that only had a beeping sound and it just didn't work out for me as I ended up over torquing getting to solid sound.
#48
C
chilipeppermaniac
This way you know you got a unabused Tool/Torque wrench.
C
chilipeppermaniac
Although there is one thing I learned with renting SOME parts store tools. Sometimes they give you a totally new tool in factory sealed box and charge your CCard a " deposit" If you keep the tool, the charge stays. If you return it, it is free when they credit your card back.Personally, I wouldn't trust a parts store loaned out torque wrench, ever.
This way you know you got a unabused Tool/Torque wrench.
#49
packy51
packy51
I had exactly the same issue purchasing a Pittsburg torque wrench last year when doing shocks on my car,. It wouldn't click. I thought I was doing something wrong but when I picked up my smaller cheap no name one that didn't go as high in ft lbs, it clicked. I brought it back for a return and didn't try other ones. I just went to Lowes and bought their Colbalt one and had no issues. I find it hard to believe that Pittsburg would have such poor quality control that none of their torque wrenches clicked. I also bought a Pittsburgh tire pressure pump that works from a 12 v car connection or old cigarette lighter. It worked well for several years but then the connector completely fell apart. i bought a replacment connector on Ebay. I like HF, but I am now leary of their Pittsburgh line. At least they take returns.I had been rebuilding a Trek road bike and don't have a torque wrench that can read inch-lb, so I used the 'good and snug' method but last week, I got an Ariens riding mower with a bad head gasket and the torque is more important for reinstalling the head. I had bought a Pittsburgh wrench from Harbor freight but since the bike went on the back burner, never used it until Friday and when I was tightening the first bolt, it never clicked. I have seen a lot of videos showing people using that wrench and they received good reviews, but I don't think customers should have to do Quality Control testing for any manufacturer unless they pay us in some way. I also don't like the need to turn the handle three times through its range from low to high and turning the sleeve felt like I was scraping the thread into a new piece of metal- the first replacement had grease coming out and it was very hard to turn. I tested the first one by putting a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and clamping it in my vise to check it at the lowest torque setting and it never clicked. It actually broke the adapter that I had used for decades- I had ground off some material so it could be used once and it never failed until I was testing the wrench.
I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.
To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.
Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.
I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.
#50
C
chilipeppermaniac
I too am a newbie to Torque Wrenches. Anytime I have had need for them in the past, I was in the garages of friends who were wrenching with me and I got to use theirs. I have a few questions especially for the purchase of ones like Mac, Snap On, etc. I think I hear that if you buy a Snap On etc tool, they service the tools or help with replacement parts etc. One such tool I have is a Compression tester with multiple fittings. I got it used and may ring up the tool man to see if I can get the missing or worn part replaced. Which brings me to the question of the tool truck guy and their Torque wrenches. If I were to buy a USED one, would they test it and make sure it was properly working for me or do I need to be a high volume, pro tech, repeat customer of some sort who the tool guy has a vested interest in?
Also, Yes, I do remember that I have a torque wrench and not a total virgin. Mine is likely almost as old as I am and is a Craftsman Beam style one.
C
chilipeppermaniac
Star Tech etc,I would think very few even check these when they first get them trusting the manufacture to have done it. I once trusted them too until I got multiple units breaking screws/bolts. When I started testing this is when I found the cheap torque wrench from HFT were so far off it was ridiculous. This is when I started buying and testing even the certified ones. The current ones even have engraved serial numbers.
I also learned that they need to unload and stored away safely to prevent them losing their calibrations. So far they are staying within specs.
I still got to get myself a LH version of the 3/4 torque wrench but so far I haven't needed that would require the higher settings.
Now I have try using a version that only had a beeping sound and it just didn't work out for me as I ended up over torquing getting to solid sound.
I too am a newbie to Torque Wrenches. Anytime I have had need for them in the past, I was in the garages of friends who were wrenching with me and I got to use theirs. I have a few questions especially for the purchase of ones like Mac, Snap On, etc. I think I hear that if you buy a Snap On etc tool, they service the tools or help with replacement parts etc. One such tool I have is a Compression tester with multiple fittings. I got it used and may ring up the tool man to see if I can get the missing or worn part replaced. Which brings me to the question of the tool truck guy and their Torque wrenches. If I were to buy a USED one, would they test it and make sure it was properly working for me or do I need to be a high volume, pro tech, repeat customer of some sort who the tool guy has a vested interest in?
Also, Yes, I do remember that I have a torque wrench and not a total virgin. Mine is likely almost as old as I am and is a Craftsman Beam style one.
#51
dawgn86
dawgn86
Tekton has good quality torque wrenchesI had been rebuilding a Trek road bike and don't have a torque wrench that can read inch-lb, so I used the 'good and snug' method but last week, I got an Ariens riding mower with a bad head gasket and the torque is more important for reinstalling the head. I had bought a Pittsburgh wrench from Harbor freight but since the bike went on the back burner, never used it until Friday and when I was tightening the first bolt, it never clicked. I have seen a lot of videos showing people using that wrench and they received good reviews, but I don't think customers should have to do Quality Control testing for any manufacturer unless they pay us in some way. I also don't like the need to turn the handle three times through its range from low to high and turning the sleeve felt like I was scraping the thread into a new piece of metal- the first replacement had grease coming out and it was very hard to turn. I tested the first one by putting a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and clamping it in my vise to check it at the lowest torque setting and it never clicked. It actually broke the adapter that I had used for decades- I had ground off some material so it could be used once and it never failed until I was testing the wrench.
I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.
To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.
Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.
I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.
#52
G
Gym123
I have seen that, but as I posted, I bought the torque adapter and won't use an in-lb wrench often, unless I find myself working on bicycles and mowers more often.
G
Gym123
Tekton has good quality torque wrenches
I have seen that, but as I posted, I bought the torque adapter and won't use an in-lb wrench often, unless I find myself working on bicycles and mowers more often.
#53
R
Red Good
R
Red Good
If you step on the snap on truck the calibration device is usually on the wall behind the driver. Beam type and several klicker types and a new digital beeper one , checked every year . And likely the only thing free on that truck !!Hmmm, quick ? - - - how many torque wrench users have their wrench recalibrated annually..... "silence"
#54
G
g-man57
G
g-man57
This discussion brings up an interesting thought... Why don't auto parts stores, etc., have calibration devices so shade-tree mechanics can check their wrenches? I would think it would be 'magnet' for customers working on projects that require them to use their torque wrench.
#55
G
Gym123
The question of "What should I do if it doesn't meet spec?" needs to be considered, too. That's the main thing preventing me buying a used torque wrench- repairing isn't cheap.
G
Gym123
If you step on the snap on truck the calibration device is usually on the wall behind the driver. Beam type and several klicker types and a new digital beeper one , checked every year . And likely the only thing free on that truck !!
The question of "What should I do if it doesn't meet spec?" needs to be considered, too. That's the main thing preventing me buying a used torque wrench- repairing isn't cheap.
#56
1
13brian
After watching 4-5 testing episodes on both, I grabbed and AC Delco digital adapter and will be recalibration my HFT clicker very soon.
1
13brian
For cost and accuracy the digital adapters (specifically HFT Quinn & AC Delco) seem to be the best deals. There is also another YouTube channel Torque Test Channel with some very good tests and info. FWIWwhat does the project farm guy say - have they tested tore wrenches?
After watching 4-5 testing episodes on both, I grabbed and AC Delco digital adapter and will be recalibration my HFT clicker very soon.
#57
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
I wonder how exact on torque settings you need to be on a mower engine? Other than head bolts that i cheat on regularly by adding 10 ft/lb, rod and sump bolts. What else do you guys use a torque wrench on? After over a half century of twisting things i rarely grab a torque wrench.
#58
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Head, Sump, Rod, and Flywheel bolt/nut for me. I also check the lug nut/bolts on my tractor and the loader mounting bolts.I wonder how exact on torque settings you need to be on a mower engine? Other than head bolts that i cheat on regularly by adding 10 ft/lb, rod and sump bolts. What else do you guys use a torque wrench on? After over a half century of twisting things i rarely grab a torque wrench.
#59
StarTech
StarTech
Well I use them nearly on everything here. It probably why have 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" and 3/4 RH versions and 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" LH versions. LH are needed on chainsaws and ATV (UTV) units. I also small in/lb driver for 10-15 in/lbs screws on the plastic carburetors and air filter bases just to keep from warping them.
SO far the max torque I needed has been 300 ft/lbs or I would have gotten a 600 ft/lb version.
SO far the max torque I needed has been 300 ft/lbs or I would have gotten a 600 ft/lb version.
#60
J
jcaden
J
jcaden
I have had a problem with the HF torque wrenches where the mechanism in the handle disconnects if the knob adjustment is loosened too far. (No click problem). Its easily solved by opening up the handle and re-connecting the mechanism.
#61
A
Air4Dave
A
Air4Dave
This looks like a fairly good one, for the price point. Most folks don’t use these but maybe once, so, as you stated, it’s important that it stored oiled and clean, with a small amount of tension.I haven't of any that goes to 240. But here is good brand to buy.
Also any torque should be stored unloaded. plus for above 120 convert ft-lbs (120in/lbs / 12 = 10 ft/lbs and use a 3/8 drive version reduced to 1/4 drive.
#62
StarTech
StarTech
I have been using the 1/2" version for two years now. Just got to not being tossing it around as the painted numbers will come off if dinged. Other than that it came with 1/2% of spec'd settings and still there.
#63
B
biggertv
B
biggertv
The question of "What should I do if it doesn't meet spec?" needs to be considered, too. That's the main thing preventing me buying a used torque wrench- repairing isn't cheap.
#64
B
biggertv
B
biggertv
Perfect calibration is not needed for lawn equipment. the key is Consistency. As long as All head or sump Bolts are Torqued to the Same Value, a couple of inch-pounds off won't hurt.
#65
R
Robert II
R
Robert II
The one I have, is an OEM bought from AutoZone . It is 20-200 in/lbs. it came with a certificate of accuracy, instructions for use, go above desired setting and adjust down, and for storage one full turn below lowest setting, other than the locking screw unscrewing when removing load, it is a great Wrench, I test it regularly using an 8point socket attached to my Matco TW, and the OEM, and test above the setting on the Matco , and unload to below the setting of the Matco. The price in 7/2015 was $52.65 including sales tax. WORTH EVERY PENNY ! The C.O.A. and the receipt (lifetime warranty)are stored folded up neatly in the storage case.
#66
G
Gym123
G
Gym123
Perfect, no, but with Aluminum parts, it's not a bad idea to be more precise. With cast iron, it's not as critical in most cases but in a case like the Briggs that really should have had a bolt where the gasket fails so frequently, undershooting the torque will just make it fail sooner and overshooting will just strip the holes. I used a small 1/4" ratchet when I tightened the bolts the first time, before buying the torque adapter, because a long 3/8" wrench would have made stripping far too easy.Perfect calibration is not needed for lawn equipment. the key is Consistency. As long as All head or sump Bolts are Torqued to the Same Value, a couple of inch-pounds off won't hurt.
#67
rickfischer51
Also, just as critical to accuracy as the wrench is thread condition. Clean the bolts and what ever they screw into. That means threads, bearing surfaces, washers and nuts. If a thread compound or lube is recommended, use it. I spent 6 months in a fastener lab doing torque-tension testing, and thread prep can make a huge difference. Remember, the torque is irrelevant. Its the tension in the body of the bolt produced by the torque. We measure torque because its convenient.
rickfischer51
Beam wrenches are great. My father worked for Sturtevant and taught me how to torque a bolt when I was 12. I have several Sturtevant beam wrenches from 1/4 drive 80 inch-gram to a 3/4 drive 300 foot-pounder. Also have Cleco ratchet clicker wrenches. I check the Clecos on a beam wrench with a 8-point socket, and also with a digital tester I picked up on ebay. Everything calibrates well to the beam wrenches, at least so far. They say clickers need to have the torque setting backed off after use to stay accurate, and dont use them to loosen tight bolts. If I'm doing something critical, like head bolts, I use a clicker in ten ft-lb increments, but use a beam wrench for the final torque increment. Beam wrenches are cheap, reliable and fool proof. But the clicker ratchet wenches are so convenient. Had a Sturtevant beam wrench with a ratchet on the end once, but it grew legs.I had been rebuilding a Trek road bike and don't have a torque wrench that can read inch-lb, so I used the 'good and snug' method but last week, I got an Ariens riding mower with a bad head gasket and the torque is more important for reinstalling the head. I had bought a Pittsburgh wrench from Harbor freight but since the bike went on the back burner, never used it until Friday and when I was tightening the first bolt, it never clicked. I have seen a lot of videos showing people using that wrench and they received good reviews, but I don't think customers should have to do Quality Control testing for any manufacturer unless they pay us in some way. I also don't like the need to turn the handle three times through its range from low to high and turning the sleeve felt like I was scraping the thread into a new piece of metal- the first replacement had grease coming out and it was very hard to turn. I tested the first one by putting a 1/4"-3/8" adapter and clamping it in my vise to check it at the lowest torque setting and it never clicked. It actually broke the adapter that I had used for decades- I had ground off some material so it could be used once and it never failed until I was testing the wrench.
I was pretty PO'd- neither of the HF stores is close enough for me to call them 'convenient', but I need to finish the work, so I drove out and exchanged it without any problem from them, even though I had never registered it (can't even see that it was needed until it's opened), but I wasn't going to leave without testing it and since I bought a set of adapters, I was able to use a vise again. The replacement never clicked, the 2nd and 3rd replacements didn't click. I was talking to the store manager after the first exchange and he tried a couple of them, even went to the back room to grab one in a fresh case- none of them worked.
To be honest, I have had very few problems with their tools and have a lot of SnapOn, some Craftsman and other brands but this was ridiculous.
Anyway, I still need a torque wrench that will work between 20-240 inch-pounds. What do you fine people use? I don't expect to need it often.
I would prefer Taiwanese if it's going to come from Asia.
Also, just as critical to accuracy as the wrench is thread condition. Clean the bolts and what ever they screw into. That means threads, bearing surfaces, washers and nuts. If a thread compound or lube is recommended, use it. I spent 6 months in a fastener lab doing torque-tension testing, and thread prep can make a huge difference. Remember, the torque is irrelevant. Its the tension in the body of the bolt produced by the torque. We measure torque because its convenient.
#68
G
Gym123
G
Gym123
Those are the double beam that click, right? The beam wrenches are good unless you can't fit behind something to see the fastener and scale.Beam wrenches are great. My father worked for Sturtevant and taught me how to torque a bolt when I was 12. I have several Sturtevant beam wrenches from 1/4 drive 80 inch-gram to a 3/4 drive 300 foot-pounder. Also have Cleco ratchet clicker wrenches. I check the Clecos on a beam wrench with a 8-point socket, and also with a digital tester I picked up on ebay. Everything calibrates well to the beam wrenches, at least so far. They say clickers need to have the torque setting backed off after use to stay accurate, and dont use them to loosen tight bolts. If I'm doing something critical, like head bolts, I use a clicker in ten ft-lb increments, but use a beam wrench for the final torque increment. Beam wrenches are cheap, reliable and fool proof. But the clicker ratchet wenches are so convenient. Had a Sturtevant beam wrench with a ratchet on the end once, but it grew legs.
Also, just as critical to accuracy as the wrench is thread condition. Clean the bolts and what ever they screw into. That means threads, bearing surfaces, washers and nuts. If a thread compound or lube is recommended, use it. I spent 6 months in a fastener lab doing torque-tension testing, and thread prep can make a huge difference. Remember, the torque is irrelevant. Its the tension in the body of the bolt produced by the torque. We measure torque because its convenient.
#70
rickfischer51
rickfischer51
My torque wrenches. The flat beams are heavy and clumsy but are supposed to be very accurate. The thickness of the beam tapers and this is supposed to account for large beam deflection variation from the Euler beam formula, but as a degreed mechanical engineer that specialized in solid mechanics, I cant see the value. There are enough other variables that you arent really gaining anything. I would have made the correction on the dial plate. The round beam wrenches are easier to use, lighter and less clumsy, and the swivel drive square is nice. The ratchet version I mentioned above had a ratchet head mounted on a wrench like this. What I call a clicker are the micrometer ratchet wrenches on the bottom. These are Cleco wrenches after Cleco and Sturtevant were acquired by SK-Wayne/Dresser Industries in the late 60's early 70's.
Attachments
#71
StarTech
StarTech
One comment on the clicker types. Make sure you get the version that can be converted to LH torquing and don't just accept the ones claiming to do both without any mods; unless, they prove it in front of you. Now the digital torque will go both ways or at the one I have does.
I do know the one I posted can be mod to do LH but will need a second one for RH operations. Hence the reason I have two of each size here. So far I have needed a 3/4 drive LH but suspect sooner or later I will.
I do know the one I posted can be mod to do LH but will need a second one for RH operations. Hence the reason I have two of each size here. So far I have needed a 3/4 drive LH but suspect sooner or later I will.