Recent content by slomo

Don't know what to say about this??? Is the choke stuck closed? Choke even work properly?

For sure. Check those bearings while you "were" there.

Does harbor freight make a suitable replacement engine?

Now pull the carb bowl off. Turn the key on. Carb needle should allow fuel into the bowl area. Get a drip pan ready. Make sure plenty of gas runs out the carb needle and seat.

Jump on facetrash marketplace. Look for Snapper Commercial mowers. Can grab a clean one for around $350 in my area. Your great great grandchildren will be mowing with it. True side discharge, mulcher and a bagger that no other mower comes close to. Mine will suck spare change off your garage...

Unstick the rings. Clean the ring grooves in the piston. CLEAN as in hospital clean. Put it back together. Forget about the hash marks. Run the sucker at max revs all the time. Keep the oil on the full mark at EVERY mow. New rings will require honing slash bore prep. Current rings are already...

So the new fuel pumps are not working? Guessing these are OEM Kohler parts?

Rig up an aux fuel tank that is HIGHER than the carb. Just to confirm lack of fuel is the issue. Mow with it a while. Many a time fuel filters can look dry and the engine still runs. Did you pressure test the carb needle/seat at 7psi for 30 minutes? Does the needle allow fuel into the bowl area?

Where did you get these from? Scamazon or Fleabay? OEM parts????

I told you what I use. It is non hardening. As in EASY to remove NEXT TIME. Saves the next guy from cussing his brains out. Totally stunned and believe your story. Normally when I see RTV, there are tools laying all over the place trying to remove a small valve cover for example. You can, use...

Go to Linux Lite. If you can run Windoze, LL is a breeze.

I adjust valves yearly. Why? I like my equipment to start on the first pull. Also max engine performance and longevity. Only takes a few minutes.

Sealing up your muffler? That RTV requires muscle to remove. Not for me.

Sure but that flavor of juice must be dug off upon removal. With a crime scene clean-up once all the cussing is over LOL. Use what you like.

OEM carb or Chinese Scamazon slash Fleabay?

Then, the tank or a hose, maybe a filter is plugged. Do you have gas IN THE TANK? Push on the mower and make it slosh around. Five pages of help and you still have issues. Something got missed.

What about the fuel tank? Dude, start pulling hoses until you can find some gasoline. Start at the tank outlet.......... Open the gas cap. Let it flow. If you remove the gas cap, and nothing flows out of the tank, the tank is either empty or plugged on the outlet.

Remove the carb bowl screw or a drain screw if you have one. Remove the carb bowl. See if gas is coming out of the needle/seat. As in heading for the carb bowl but now the bowl is off.

Use Stabil fuel stabilizer, year round. That way next season she starts like a new mower. Use it even during mowing season. Keeps your fuel fresh. Fuel delivery issue and or dirty carb. All new parts, require, testing. No guaranty they will work. Especially from Scamazon or Fleabay. Chinese...

Your engine. Really needs the top shroud removed to clean the fins and all around the block. Read your engine manual.

As in cleaning the cooling fins on these air cooled engines.......... Amen to that.

Fuel tank spotless, like a new one? Zero restriction on the outlet? Solid fuel flow AT the carb inlet? Drain into a glass jar. Inspect for water in the bottom. Cooling fins cleaned yearly or more often? Valve clearance inspected recently as in yearly meaning every year? Strong spark once...

Might move this to the Craftsman mower section. Doesn't seem to be a Kroller issue.

Kbowey, are you still around on this forum? Haven't seen you chime in much recently. Hope you return. You are an intelligent valued member here.

Cooling fins were cleaned. Both sparks were verified. Do you have a solid fuel flow AT the carb inlet?

DId this get fixed? OP are you still around?

It's 2025 now. Can we please get color photos of parts diagrams? Too much to beg for? This Crayola stuff is nuts.

Does it look like a new front tire? Does the new tire come with flat surfaces? Is the mega mower parked for long periods of time causing a flat spot on the tire? Post a picture of said tire on here so we can SEE what you are describing.

It lets us all post pics. If yours are too large, resize for free in Windoze 11 Photos app thingy.

I use this. Non hardening sealant designed for oil, gas, grease, aviation and automotive. Made for valve cover gaskets and oil pans. Does not require a jack hammer to remove a valve cover later LOL. (y) The number 1 version has a faster setting up time.

Those are the worst. I have one of my own I couldn't get off with gentle persuasion. Guess some caveman tactics are in order.

I'm all eyes. Please elaborate. 🍿🍿

I never buy a clickable setting torque wrench. Like StarTech said, you must dial back to 0 when done. I just buy the old school beam style jobs that work for decades. Pick them up at garage sales or facetrash market place for cheap.

Did you get this fixed dana a?

Gary has left the chat.

If you can't find the specific bolt, make one. If you have a grinder....... Bolts are cheap.

How about cleaning some cooling fins every year? I've heard that is a must "to do" thing on ALL mowers.

Don't know how many valve covers I've tried to remove. Globs of RTV all over the engine. End up bending and replacing the valve cover because it's "stuck on Band-Aid brand". Soon as I see RTV, I think to myself, here we go. The entire mower now has to be gone over and inspected.

Yes sir. Head and block. All around the engine. Videos below.

Pull the top engine cover off. Use your eyes to make sure the carb linkage is working properly. About 3/4 down on the throttle, should be a detent. That is where the choke plate starts to close. Throttle lever all the way down is full choke. Good job on using the fuel shut off valve. While...

Think about this one a bit. Pull the oil dip stick out. Use that thing on the front of your face. Still need help? :geek: Sorry I had to.

Youtube is free.

Please think, of the next guy, that has to remove that cover. Use the OEM paper/rubber gasket if at all possible. Or a sealant that doesn't fully harden. RTV is amateur hour in my book. Red is the wrong color type for oil anyway. Your mower, use what you like.

Hire a lawn crew. You will come out much cheaper in the long run. Sit on the couch drinking a cold one watching the game......... Won't have to store 2 huge machines. Fuel for both and maintenance items $$$$.

Ha, we have the State Fair going on now. Triple deep fried butter bacon and so on. It's hard to find a slim person around here. All the gyms like Gold's and so on go bankrupt.

If you want real fuel injection and oil cleaners, get 505CRF and 505CRO by ATS Chemical. Approved by Scotty Kilmer. https://www.atschemicals.com/505-pour-ins/

Check valve lash per your engine manual.

Did you get this running or not?

HA-HA-HA!!!!! Not in Oklahoma. We have walking diabetes all over the place here LOL. (y) :p:D:geek:

Were all the valves closed when you did the leak down? All must be closed (TDC). Continual smoking is piston rings/bore slash sealing.

Used they go for roughly $350.00 in OKC. There is one with the Kawi FJ-180V in Stillwater for $380.00. That one is cherry clean. I have two Commercials but looking for more. Personally I would stay far away from a used Toro. They are not near the build of the old Snappers. Especially the...

No regrets at all. I mowed with it for about 3 or 4 seasons, Chinese carb installed.

Take it back immediately.

I too don't use the red 150 mics. Not enough filtering as mentioned above. Nothing but a window screen inside it. The white 75 mics are okay on push mowers. I prefer the cellulose or paper filters on gravity and fuel pump engines. Still wondering if the bronze filter media snow blower or...

We all did LOL.

Yes. Read this entire thread about how I made it work.

Trash in the fuel tank. Or failed interior fuel lines. Or clogged fuel filter. Dirty carb. Make sure you have a solid fuel flow AT the carb inlet.

Duh, tell us something we all, should know LOL. An old real Snapper will do the same. Got a couple from the 1980's that still cut like a laser today.

Now, figure out WHY it happened. You are not done yet.

Old post but..... Yes gentle circles or X patterns. Let the paper do all the work. Do not push with any force on the head or block area. Use your open fingertips while holding the head. Open fingertips are two ways to lower contact pressure. Really warped ones I start at 220 grit wet/dry paper...

Dude ghosted us.

Did you get this fixed?

Amen to that. Works every time.

Post a video on youtube and link it here. We need to hear it.

I agree, good running plug.

That is trash slash debris in the fuel tank. Pull the tank and flush out like a new one. Bet there is all kinds of bugs, leaves, dead grass, dirt dobbers and so on in there. And that red filter is like a window screen. Not much filtering going on. Look inside the fuel filter for yourself. You...

Sound about right. Check your engine manual as some engines take a 0.020" gap.

Waste of time. Installing a new fuel line is a good idea. They rot from the inside out.

No. The position the valve is in is fully open.

It's not just Toro. It's everyone else too. Got to make more profits for those CEO's. They got to have that fourth summer home in Figi you know....... They are all trying to cut costs and charge more. And the customer is paying for it all.

Chinese Scamazon or Fleabay carb? You do know that pulling your credit card and buying any new part, that part requires TESTING. New does not mean new.

WD-40 works good as a so called cutting oil on aluminum.

Coolant probably never changed. Turns acidic over time. Seals start leaking and parts break.

So not much time to burn off any condensation really in frigid temps?? Could be a head gasket or lack of running it till it gets hot??? Do a couple oil dumps now in hot weather and run the snot out of it at FULL revs.

If the cable is good then the adjustment for the throttle slash choke is off. Download the engine manual for that mower. Read about throttle cable adjusting. Search on youtube as well.

Put all the stock parts back on. Keep the credit card in your wallet. Fix what you have. OEM parts are better than anything off Scamazon or Fleabay. Is the fuel tank spotless like a new one? As in zero trash in the bottom and outlet port? Does this have an after-fire carb solenoid?

Sounds like water in the gas to me. Pull the hose AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar. Look for water in the bottom. Use E-0 gas if possible.

As high as that port is, must be a vent. The replacement carb pic shows a welch block off plug I think.

Carful the brand and formula used here. Some contain vinegar which as we know is an acid. Will corrode things in short order. Read the ingredients first.

No talk about the cooling fins. All hey let's hammer down the valve guide. What about what caused this to happen in the first place?

I have never pulled a head for ANY reason that wasn't in need of a serious lapping job.

Totally agree. Why, because that Band-Aid repair will not last. People have $1400.00 cell phones and skimp out on mower repairs. Probably have $150,000 worth of cars "laying" on the driveway......... I don't get it.

An oily or lubed bolt requires less final torque than a dry bolt. That being said, that Briggs step #1 ILENGINE posted is news to me. I too need to be more careful about torque values and lube. ESPECIALLY on Inteks which are known to toss head gaskets. Nice find ILENGINE. (y)

Lube the cable or replace it.

Who put sand in the oil sump? You have more issues than one crank bearing surface. Look at all that grit inside on the parts.......... WOW!!! That is a filthy engine.

An oiled plug, rusted in place...... Let that percolate a bit. Meaning they stripped slash cross threaded it.

Either you didn't get to it yet or I was ignored. Holler when you do more testing.

How do you know? Something is causing your lack of fuel issue. Pull the hose off AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar. Should have a gundy pulsing fuel flow if the pump is good. As in making a huge mess. Look for water in the bottom of the jar.

Why do you want or need it to idle down for? OPE (outdoor power equipment) mowers, trimmers and blowers are designed to run at full rpm once you let go of the starting rope or key switch. Most are air cooled. Low rpm means less cooling air being generated, not good. Then there is the...

Feel around the head for air movement. That would work on an external leak. Take a small hose. Hold one end to your ear. Other around the head area. Could smoke test it and see where the smoke goes. Use a car evap machine tester slash smoker.

Or you a shop vac you probably already have for free?

Post it up on youtube. Link it here for us to view. Means a rich condition. Carb needle sticking open or choke not locked open once warm/hot. Pressure test the carb needle/seat at 7psi for 30 minutes. Many a youtube video on how to pressure test carb needles. Pull the oil dipstick and smell...

Wish they made the "old" Snappers again. Not the new walmart disposable Snappers of today. Those were the days........

Is this a fixed governed speed engine? That tab where the spring is connected to, in the picture of a picture, is bent over.

T These are not Rolls Royce turbines. Millions of mowers right now are cutting with scored cylinders. That shop should be avoided. Yes and for many a year to come. Remember you must, lap the head and block area, where the gasket sits. Extra commas for importance. De-carbon the piston, valves...

Those McLane edgers are easy flips. Problem is the gas caps down seal anymore due to rust around the cap area. I bought a new Briggs cap and polished the cap area on the tank. Over time the tank warps in this area leading to leaks. The metal thins in this cap area over time.

Trimmers, blowers and well most all outdoor powered gear are meant to run at MAX rpm, all the time. Why? Most are air cooled. The slower you run the engine the less cooling air is generated. Next category is lubrication. Same deal here. Trimmers are meant to be at full song after you pull the...

Taryl debunked the alcohol removes water from gas. So did Chickanic if I recall correctly. Heet is a wallet draining item that does not work. Project Farm I think did a video on this too I think?? Why would you use seafoam, on any engine? Nothing but a solvent with some oil. A new engine...

Post up a video of it running. Aim towards the muffler to capture the smoke.

You know, on all outdoor power equipment or as in mower engines, you must de-carbon the cylinder/s say every 5-7 years? Could be a reason you are down on power. Or are you used to the engine and maybe not cutting enough? Letting the grass get away from you? Possible plug, weak ignition or valve...

SEE, I had car batteries on the brain LOL. Just like Abe did ha-ha.

At least run a zip tie around the poor fitting hose. The old pulsa jet carbs and so on with the pulsing breather hoses. The 90 degree black boots are always loose fitting.

And playing on their phones all day long. Wasting time on MOWER FORUMS, oops like I am right now LOL.

Are you clear on what caused this issue? Lack of valve lash checks or over heated the block, maybe both? Both of these are YEARLY maintenance items in every engine manual out there. Just letting you know this was all preventable.

Great mowers but expensive. What isn't expensive these days?

That is a 2 piece cover is it not? The red cover and the black ventilated grill ? Nothing there is a precision fit. You answered your own question. If you remove the cover it's quiet. No. Over filled is over filled. Keep it ON the full mark, not below and not above. Precise enough for a...

Oil is too heavy to get into the vacuum. Way up on top of the engine so to say.

Fluttering sound starts at 1:12 into the video. I also hear a slight miss. You said if you remove the top plastic cover it doesn't do it. Wonder if the black plastic grill is doing it?

Shop vac on oil fill tube. What's not to like?

I used a cheap food scale to balance my blades. Get it down to 0.01 of a gram.

What I've found is don't buy the cheapest listed priced carb you can find off fleabay or scamazon. Say the lowest listed price is $19.95. Get one that cost $29.95 for example. Since I've started doing this, my good carbs have been way higher in luck for sure. They are a crap shoot. I typically...