Recent content by Rivets

If it came to me with the conditions you describe I would be removing and rebuilding the carb.

Are you sure it’s not an HH120? HH170 does not show up. This manual may help. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecumseh-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/TECUMSEH-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-VH80-VH100-HH80-HH100-HH120-OH120-OH140-OH160-OH180-8HP-THRU-18HP-CAST-IRON-ENGINES-691462A.pdf

More questions than answers. First you say you have all components, but then you think you are missing a rod or spring. If you have all components then you have to crawl under the unit and identify each against the diagram and where they go. This is a slow tedious task, especially if you are...

Have you checked the spark arrester to see if it is plugged?

Reported

I was at Tractor Supply yesterday and saw that they had a variety of axle bearings in stock. If you have one in your area it might be worth a phone call and/or road trip. Make sure you have the bearing in hand if you do so.

Anyone have an idea whether this is Spam or not? Just joined and wants you to click on an unknown site, seems like a big red flag. No I didn’t click on it.

Two things you can try. Remove one bearing and clean the exterior very well. Most times bearings will have their manufacturer number stamp on them. If no numbers are there take the bearing to an industrial supply company and ask them to measure and match them. I’ve used companies such as...

You need to determine whether you have a fuel or ignition problem. Get yourself an inline spark tester at your auto parts store and the next time it happens, insert the tester and check for spark. No spark ignition problem, spark fuel problem. Report back and we’ll provide suggestions as to...

You don’t give us a lot to go on to help you. This site has the parts diagrams for your unit which may help you out. After you look them over, maybe you can give us a better description of what parts you are talking about. http://www.lawnflitespares.com/lawn-tractors/603/13dh473c611-2007

Cut the filter open and look at the size of the particles. Coffee filters won’t stop anything that small. As stated may have to change the filter a few time to get all the crap out.

I agree with Bert, only real fix is to weld and retap. Anything else won’t last long and not worth the effort or expense.

Stupid question, but what is the plug number you are using? Could just be that the plug is too cold.

That’s what I was afraid you were talking about. They are fun to reassemble even when you have done it hundreds of times. I’ve attached the service manual for your unit, which will definitely help you out. Patience and an assistant are going to be you greatest asset. Start with section...

Please explain what part you are calling the control lever. Speed or throttle? Also include the units serial number.

Model and serial numbers for your unit would be extremely helpful for us to help you..

I agree with Hammer and Forest, diaphragm needs replacing. Plus, I always recommend replacing the carb to tank gasket, as it ie not uncommon for the tank to warp on a 37 year old engine and the this seal will be broken and the pump will not work.

I always recommend the Minimum CCA for twin cylinder engines is 300-325 CCA. Also check the charging system, if not charging a minimum of 13.6 DCV, you probably found another problem.

Have you checked for debris floating around in the fuel tank. May be partially blocking the outlet.

I would recommend either a Kubota or Toro with the Myride system. Prices vary with deck size, model and accessories.

If you peened the valve seats in you also need to at least relap the valves, if not recut the valve seats and faces. Valves seats can be easily cocked which will not allow them to seal properly.

Double check your adjustment following the procedure in this service manual. https://www.briggs-stratton.cz/nahradni-dily-bas/pdf/prirucka-2valcove-intek.pdf

Have you tried an electrical appliance repair shop?

I’ll take the boob in the office over a convicted habitual liar.

If the battery drops below 10VDC when you try to start the engine, you are going to have to get a new battery before you can diagnose your problem. A bad battery likes to hide other problems.

He edited the first post.

Which pulley is the belt coming off? There are different belt guides which may be attached wrong. This manual shows how the belt is routed and the location of the belt guides...

Bought from a Big Box store, take it back. Bought at a dealer, take it back and have them check it out.

Need to know engine number, which are located, stamped on the shroud. Check above muffler or post all numbers on the engine ID tag.

Probably have to drop the engine pulley or remove the belt guard.

You need to post the model and serial numbers for your unit. We hate throwing out guesses as to how to help you with out knowing which of the hundreds of different models of Husqvarna tractors made. Which blade spindle did he replace?

Just start a new thread. Include all engine and unit numbers, plus the best description of the problem and what you have done to this point to resolve the problem.

Post the units model and serial numbers so we can look them.

Just reread this thread and I see there are at least two people who have different problems posting in the same thread. That is a NO-NO, as it gets very confusing for everyone. Whiteshu, the first thing I would do is get a new mechanic, as he has no idea what a Hall effect trigger is or where...

Agree, ground issue. Follow the throttle cable down from the counsel to the engine and I’ll bet you’ll find an electrical wire rubbing against the cable.

Go through this troubleshooting procedure and let us know the results. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. How well you understand basic electricity. 2. What tools you have and know how to use. 3. How well you follow directions. 4. You don't...

Are the idler arms providing the proper tension on the belt? Did the problem start after you serviced the drive system? Did you use an OEM belt or a aftermarket one that says it fits your unit?

When was the last time the drive belts were changed? This is the first thing I would be checking. While checking the belts on a 13 year old unit, I would also be looking at all pulleys, drive and idler, to make they sure they are not worn and bearings are in good condition.

Whiteshu, please post the model, type and code numbers for your engine. With them we can tell whether you have the correct coil. Second, post the part number of the replacement coils and where you purchased them. If both were purchased on Fleabay or AmoScam, the is a definite possibility that...

Nice to see someone else appreciates these old mules. A sugar cube once in a while keeps them happy. You didn’t violate any decorum on this site, just someone who is pickier about grammar than needs to be. Keep us updated on your tractor and if you need anything post back.

Have you looked into the prices of a good crystal ball lately? On top of that the quality has gone into the toilet bowl.

Before COVID I had great psychic powers, but mine and most others around here lost them due to loss of human interactions with humans. How do you expect to get any help with the limited information you provided. Lawn boy had eight different models in 1978 and used at least three different...

I highly doubt it that fuel is being siphoned back into the tank. If you are positive that the choke is operating properly, I suspect the float is off and you have a lean starting condition. The carb needs to be cleaned and the float level needs to be set slightly rich.

Post the units model and serial numbers so we have an idea of what type of wiring you are dealing with.

Things are getting clearer. I agree with Star, if you are going to try drilling it open start small and work your way up. I’ve been punching jets for many years, started with Zenith and Rochester carb, and can tell you there is no going back I you go to big. A trick I’ve learned, never try to...

Now I’m confused. There is a main pickup tube (long one) through which the pump draws fuel from the main tank to fill the auxiliary tank. Then there is the nozzle through which the fuel is draw from the auxiliary tank into the carb body. Neither one of these has a jet. Where is the jet you...

I’ve been doing this for over 50 years and this would be the first time I’ve heard that the pickup oriface being plugged. Never seen spec on this. Are you sure that is the problem? Most common problem with those carbs is that the pump diaphragm is old and not pumping properly to draw fuel...

Easiest way to fix is to remove bracket #36. Assemble cover, spring, rod and bracket to be one unit. Now reattach this assembly to the deck.

Seen this more than once, wheel holes look more like eggs than circles. I understand other concerns stated, but with only 13 hours a good dealer should be able to get warranty. Only thing I don’t like is customer buying new wheels before consulting dealer.

If you purchased this unit from a good Toro dealer, they will most likely work with you to resolve this problem Under warranty. If you purchased it at a big box store doesn’t mean that they won’t cover it, but you’ll have to jump through more and tougher hoops.

Try this. https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/hs-45

Ace Hardware, Harbor Freight, Home Depot, in my area all advertise them. Also, check in your local lumber store, as I have used them for deck screws.

Maybe this manual will be of some help, I’m assuming you have a TR-10D engine. Haven’t seen one of those since the mid 70’s. Just a heads up on those Wisconsin engines. Timing can be tricky, as they can be both staticly and dynamicly timed. Auto guys say to do it dynamicly and small engine...

Maybe this manual will help you out. https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2339_d.pdf