Recent content by Rivets

LV195 is an L-head engine, the last time I worked on one.

Now Star, you know his magic wand is this forum, except you must say Al-Ec-Ka-Zam. You have a Happy Holidays also from the Elf.

Setting valve clearance is not that easy on an L-head engine. Instructions are in the MANUAL I posted.

Does it look like one of these...

Yes.

Snowblower belt is John Deere #M158130 and should be 149” long. Here is a manual for your blower. http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMM177515_19/toc.html

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Provide us with the model and spec number for your Tecumseh engine. That way we can tell you the exact part number you need. I’m wondering why he is selling so cheap, those carbs are in demand and as you have found not cheap. My warning to you, penny wise pound foolish.

From personal experience, “DO NOT” use aftermarket belts on JD equipment or accessories. To the OP, please provide us with the tractor and blower model numbers from the ID tags. That way we will be able to see exactly which pieces you have and provide the correct part numbers and possibly manuals.

I’m also wondering if you really got an OEM carb, especially if you purchased it off FleaBay or Scamazon. Heard of people throwing crap carbs into to OEM box’s. Might not even be the correct one, just one that the seller says is compatible and will work.

Seen this more than once, willing to bet your seller had that carb sitting around for a few years and the float needle seat has dried out. This is what I would do, replace the float needle and seat. Here is the procedure I use. Part number is 631021B. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the...

See if this video helps. If it doesn’t post the blower model number off the ID tag.

So am I, as having got to know him I think if he was permanently going to leave the forum he would have said so. Was always a valuable member here.

I know that he posted this summer that he was going to slowdown, both on this forum and his work schedule. To me it seemed like he was going to semi- retire. Also suspect from his posting there may have been some health or personal issues he or someone close to him was dealing with.

So what you are now telling us is that there are many things going on with this engone, but you’ll only give us pieces of info a little at a time. My time here is now ending as I’ve never been a fan of those who think we are here to hold their hand, but give us bad info. You started this...

A bore scope??? Why? The price of a head gasket is far cheaper and will give you more info than a bore scope. The OP doesn’t even know what he’s looking for.

You are way over thinking this. Don’t even need to remove the engine from the equipment. To check for scoring all you need to do is remove the head and look at the cylinder. A good mechanic can quickly ( in 15 seconds ) identify a cylinder which has been damaged. You only need to be able to...

At 100’ difference, probably not. At 1000’ maybe a little.

This manual should help you out. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecumseh-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/TECUMSEH-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-3HP-TO-11HP-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-692509.pdf

I should have added that’s when the carb is tipped upside down.

Set the float so it is slightly lower on the side opposite the float pin.

If it is brand new have the dealer fix under warranty. You said that the choke is fully closed, but did you visually check that it is closing all the way?

When you cleaned the carb, did you remove the idle jet, under the black plastic cap, and make sure it was open in both directions? Also, did you replace the float needle and seat, part 631021 and rest the float level slightly rich?

With an engine that old and not running, the first thing I would do is to remove the carb and rebuild it with a new float needle and seat.