Recent content by Mark H_NO

The blade stopping from a blockage can shear the key. That's all I was talking about. If it sheared without ever driving the blades, obviously that didn't happen. Lack of torque, or lube on shaft as Ilengine mentioned probably did it.

Fuel, compression, spark, and timing are what you need to run. If you're doing this to check spark, it may be a good idea to check the flywheel key. It can be sheared by suddenly stopping the blade(hitting a big root hard.) Take the nut and washer off the flywheel, it's pretty easy to see...

Hi Jim, Sheared key can be from insufficient torque, or something suddenly blocking rotation, such as hitting a big root with the blade. I think that's how I did mine. Ilengine did say "while checking the flywheel key make sure the ignition module isn't hitting the flywheel which can cause...

2 good answers. Poor connections may show full voltage, but can't pass full current. In a case like this, it's always good to clean the battery connections. Back when I used to drive much older cars, that was always one of the first things to try for weak cranking...

That looks like a normal spark tester. What you described is the definitive test for a plug. Sounds like you should have spark. Did you check that flywheel key?

If you're using an inline spark tester, it does not test the plug. Joed said "Keep in mind, the spark tester will tell you the whole ignition system is good or bad EXCEPT the spark plug." The coil fires a very high voltage, which can light the tester, even if it's not grounded. Try a new plug.

The engine needs 4 things to run. Fuel/air, compression, spark, and timing. I would check the key, but you can see if it's sheared, no need to replace if it's not. Have you tried replacing the spark plug? Using a spark tester tests everything but the plug. If you're spraying something for...

A ways back you were talking about checking the flywheel key. I'd recheck that if you haven't. It doesn't take much for that to keep it from firing. I'm also concerned about the banging noise. As someone else said, that could be motor mounts, or a dead engine.

How the compression release works.

Hopefully someone who knows that engine will speak up. If there is a compression release, as dougand3 was saying earlier, you will see a lower number on the compression test. I was working on a briggs engine that showed under 60lbs on the compression test, due to a compression release. I was...

The only way I know to test the coil is to test for spark. Use a spark tester, or remove the plug, connect the plug wire, and ground the plug. Don't hold the plug in your hand, or you can get shocked. Have someone else pull the cord, and watch for spark. There may be a test with a good...

If the bowl is dry, do you get gas out of the line running to the carb? If you remove the float(is there a float?) and the needle valve, can you blow through the fuel line? It sounds like one of those is stopped. I use canned carb cleaner to blow out the passages with pretty good results.

Single cylinder engine.

Gas can is good, mower is salvage. As I said earlier, I suspect throttle plate was blocking the starting fluid. Thanks.

What I said works fine for a single engine mower. With a PTO involved, you're over my head. If you're getting a compression tester, that's the best test, I'd wait on that.

Awful banging, that sounds like a clue! You said you replaced the flywheel key, so you should have timing. That leaves spark, fuel, and compression. Make sure the throttle and choke plates are open when you spray starting fluid, that got me. Can you disconnect the spark plug and spin the...

Good call. I was opening the choke, and spraying into the air intake outside filter housing. That normally works for me, but... In the future, remove filter, open choke and throttle plate, then spray. Thanks.

Ok. Pulled the bowl, cleaned bowl and passages, and bolt passages, installed filter and away she goes. Cut my front yard, including several restarts. Started first pull every time. Moral of the story, don't forget to clear out those passages in the bowl bolt, and watch out for auto...

Good call, I forgot that. I'll do that first thing tomorrow. I wanted to check the bowl anyhow. Thanks.

I also retorqued the cylinder head bolts, just in case heat/cool made a difference. The backyard that I cut takes over 1.5 hours, easy. I'll be putting in a fuel line filter, and checking the bowl again, but starting fluid ain't firing. I rechecked the coil gap, and reset with business card.

Hmm. I cut my backyard, including around 10 restarts for water breaks and checking the grill. Around halfway, it wouldn't restart. I pulled the carb, bowl was dirty, flushed passages with carb cleaner, put all back together and finished the yard. I let it rest for 45 min or so, and started...

Thanks again to you and the others.

put a bit of torque on the flywheel, broke it loose, and it came right off. I just didn't want to torque the crap out of the gear puller. Installed a new key from my local Ace HW, put all back together and it's running! Saved from the scrapyard. Thanks again for the tips. I was so sure that...

Can I use my gear puller(pulls on edge) or do I need a flywheel puller, and to tap the bolt holes(what B&S reccomends)

I can't see a spark, but that may be me. I put the plug in a generator and started it. Timing is obviously off, see the pic. Thanks.

Well, you called it. I'll try a pic... I never pulled one of these, can I just use my gear puller? Thanks again. I was determined to ignore timing... I just knew that wasn't it. LOL.

My spark tester shows spark. No fire with starting fluid. Air filter is new. I don't feel like I hit much of anything with the blade, though there are roots in the yard... I did a full cut of my front yard, changed the oil, and it wouldn't start. How do you set the coil air gap? With a...

I don't know what the valve clearances were before, I couldn't find my feeler gauge. I could tell the intake was leaking though. After, the intake was about .002, exhaust .007. It's one of those funky plugs with a y looking electrode, and it's new. I put it in another machine and it runs...

I picked up a toro recycler 22 with Briggs 128m02-3425-b1 engine. Compression was very weak, I lapped the valve seats and it started up and ran great. I did a 10 minute or so test cut, changed the drive belt and cut my front yard. Ran great. I changed the oil, and it hasn't started since...