Recent content by lugbolt

rough ride, handle poorly, high center of gravity, VERY long belt from engine to mower deck, NOISY, run a little warm (operator gets warm from radiator heat being directly behind them). Saw some frame welds break on them from time to time although not frequent. Pulley failures, belts...

use a M12-1.25 thread chaser if you haven't already got it done. Thread chaser doesn't cut threads, but it does a good job of cleaning up existing threads. I have used taps quite often in the past and on several occasions, they'll cut a new thread before it catches an existing thread and then...

#2 has an automatic compression release that "engages" at "cranking speed". That said, "Cranking speed" can be altered by using a jump starter or whatever. IIRC the ACR disengages at 220-250 RPM and the starter will crank it faster than that with a good hot battery. So when doing a...

you really need the special tool to get the clutch back together... also do not force it because you WILL crack the case if you try. BTDT. Once that happens you have to replace the transmission which isn't cheap. It should be, as many as Kubota has sold over the years...

they use plastic idlers. OFtentimes one of the idlers will seize the bearing and the belt just melts away at the plastic idler. Usual complaint, belt breaks. Put a new belt on, and it is noisy and/or vibrates when the brake is released. Idler almost every time. have also seen a couple with...

I don't find it that difficult, but certainly not as easy as most of the zero turn mowers. Remove the mower deck....and if you can lift the front and rear wheels, maybe 18-24" and support everything, it's a lot easier. Lot of parts need to be removed but once it's all out of the way you can...

I'm not familiar with that particular engine but the FD620's used plastic water pump gears which often failed. Impeller not spin, it don't circulate water, and don't cool very well. also had a number of them with broken cam gears too...and broken rivets that hold the plastic cam gear to the...

the fuel system has a supply side (everything from tank to pump) and the pressure side (pump to engine). Often we forget to look at the supply side. I've seen a ton of mowers with dirt/grass inside the tank which plugs the pickup tube, have seen a bunch of bad boys that had trash from the tank...

I was reading from top down and that was my first thought too. The fuse holder or wiring. Glad you got 'er figured out! (I have had to replace a few of those bad boy fuse holders...their harnesses are trash).

maybe a part damaged when lifting the mower for service? Like bent deck shell , etc. Look it over closely....

don't use ohm test, use voltage drop test. It's completely different than an ohm test. as another poster said, never assume anything. The word 'assume' is an acronym for "make an A&& out of u and me".

their wiring diagrams suck. They'll give you an idea, but that's about it. The ONE thing that always got under my skin with Bad Boy is the wiring. IF there are, for example, 20 wires in the entire harness, 15 of them are yellow which makes it "fun" to figure out. You get the idea. If I had...

starving for fuel is the #1 cause. Follow your fuel lines, find the shutoff valve and remove it from the tank. Clean it out. Blow all the fuel lines out while you have it off.

pull the air filter off. Look down inside. Is it dusty? If it is, the engine is dusted.

kohler is a little noisier, and generally will spend a little more time being maintained/repaired. Kawasaki builds a good engine as well. They are a little smoother running, slightly quieter-have a different "tone". I prefer kawasaki, but own one with a kohler. Either one, you have to stay...