Recent content by Joed756

The gas you just bought could have some water in it. drain some from the bottom of your tank into a clear container and let it sit for a few minutes.

You may just need to dump all of your gas, from the gas tank as well as the gas can that you used, look inside for dirt and check for water. But that still doesn't explain why the starting fluid isn't doing anything.

We need to know just how he applies starting fluid. The engine should start for a few seconds regardless of a dirty carb.

Do you still have a problem or not?

I missed your last post. Good job with a happy ending.

You don't need a puller, it will come loose by lightly tapping with a soft hammer. I'm glad the problem has been pinpointed.

Keep in mind, the spark tester will tell you the whole ignition system is good or bad EXCEPT the spark plug. Remove the plug from the engine and plug it back into the boot. Get help and hold the plug against a ground while your helper pulls the starter rope and see if the plug itself is actually...

You see water in the containers, it does not mix with gas, oil does mix with gas. Now do all the stuff they mentioned above, but take off your fuel filter and leave your gas cap off overnight let evaporation help you. FYI, ethanol gas, moreso than non E, will attract water without leaving a clue...

You didn't by any chance hit something with your blade? Are you saying you have spark, but no start with started fluid? You haven't mentioned the air filter which could be clogged, but I'm leaning toward timing.

Rebuild your original carb and reinstall it. Non OEM stuff is a crap shoot.

I've used a hacksaw and made them into slotted drive.

I'd grab ahold of the tensioner pulley and see if I can pull it back and forth and see if it wobbles and make sure the belt keeper is in place. I'm of the "don't fix it if it aint broke" school. I wouldn't buy a belt until I was sure that's the problem.

https://mercedpowersports.com/Shop-Online/Parts-Finder/honda-power-equipment/lawn-mower/all/hrc216/mulching-kit/2d450797-100a-49d4-89dc-989615133ab1

Yes that would definitely be a cause. Either the belt is off of a pulley or the belt tensioner isn't working,

No big technological advances have come without pain. With electric vehicles of all types we are in the painful stage now. We will either get past the flaws or give up on the idea. It's good we didn't give up when our computers were crashing all the time and cost an arm and leg to replace.

I recently got an old Scotts mower in with a similar back story. The oil looked good, it was out of gas. Gave it a squirt of brake clean and it popped and sputtered. This told me that everything but fuel delivery was likely OK. I removed the carb and poured rusty water from it. Cleaned the carb...

Are you sure your coils are gapped correctly? Use a business card

You won't get help here with the elimination of safety switches.

I too, try to be 100% accurate, like asking people to clarify if they mean Ketchup, Catsup, or (OMG!!!!!) Catch Up? Catch Up?????????

Agreed, but I live in Florida and don't have a non-growing season.

Be sure you don't have any water in the gas and the gas isn't stale. Next step is a carb disassembly and thorough cleaning. If you haven't done this before take pictures of the linkage and the various gaskets, etc. to aid reassembly. Take your time, be gentle, and you can do it.

I have used tapered cone roller bearings, primarily on bicycles, but I don't believe I've seen them sealed.

Regardless, that is a brand name for your TRIMMER.

Often those spindles, even those with Zerk fittings, are assembled with sealed bearings. I can imagine too much grease pressing on a sealed bearing could maybe cause this. Have a look at the bearings, if they are sealed just remove the sealing piece from he inside of the bearing, this will also...

Hammer is right, give a good soak in water and your life will be showered in goodness.

Without supplying the make, model, and serial number you make it much more difficult for us to troubleshoot.

I tend to think your brake is stuck, likely due to rust. Disassemble the brake, wire brush it, use Never-Sieze on the sliders and adjust as necessary.

battery?

I think they're all LH thread on RH rotating engine.

It seems to me you can drill and install a zerk fitting where 3, 4, and 5 are on the drawing. If a new gear head is needed for a two-piece unit you might save money by buying the lower half without the power unit.

He said it was the MTD website.

I have had nothing but good experiences with Jack's Small Engines.

I would never pressurize a fuel tank. They are not designed to be pressure vessels, pressurizing them is just asking for trouble.

If it started with starting fluid, you have a fuel problem. I like to check/clean the entire fuel system.

Likely the needle valve is stuck open causing the engine to flood over time. Fix that carb and life will be flowers and rainbows.

That depends on the size of your hammer. Look up the parts list for each model and see if the p/ns are the same for the hood.

It isn't the plugs. I think you have a fuel problem. Clean the carb and make sure the choke is working, your problem should go away.

In case you're unaware, the blades are measured diagonally. That's why you can have 63" on 60 " deck. Also, sloing down your mower speed can sometimes get rid of those stripes. The first thing I would check is belt tensioner(2)