Recent content by ILENGINE

Most briggs engines are interchangeable, as well as other engines with same crankshaft length or diameter, but will require more work. Lets start with the model type and code of your engine so we can see what you are working on. What do you mean the head is cracked. better description would...

Very true. Stihl, Husqvarna ,Makita/Dolmar all call for a minimum of 90-91 octane.

This also could be a case where a third party company made the bagger for the mower. Agri-Fab is a common manufacturer for stuff like that and then has the adapters to fit a certain model. Third party accessories can be even a bigger issue to track parts for sometimes. You need the model number...

The ball end of the oil pump slides into that slotted gully on the right hand side of your 4th picture down. the bent rod is the governor arm that rides on the flat disc of the governor gear more toward the left in the same picture as the oil pump gully.

That is a low oil level shutoff. Doesn't look to be ever wired into the system.

About the only thing I can think of in that area would be the round welch plug that should be covering the transition ports for the low speed jet. Should be fairly sealed in that area. But I would think the primer should be pushing fuel up threw the main jet straight into the carb venturi.

That basically tells us that the problem is on the tractor side. With the key off you should have continuity from the ignition module wire through the key switch to ground. Some place between those two points you have a broken, or disconnected wire.

Connect an ohm meter to the clutch leads and see what the resistance of the clutch is. 2.4-3.4 ohms is normal,

We will need the model number of the engine so we can decipher which one of the thousands of engines that you have.

Ignition module kill wire disconnected. Key switch not grounded if mounted in plastic. Faulty key switch. Broken wire between ignition module and key switch.

Actually Briggs starting eliminating the bottom drain plug before Honda, and that was due to the fact that mower manufacturers were building decks that enclosed the bottom of the engine therefore you couldn't access the bottom drain plug if you wanted. And Briggs sells both the drill powered...

The thing is most push mower engines and some even on tillers don't have a bottom drain plug. Imagine having to turn your front tine tiller with the vertical crankshaft engine on its side to drain the oil. There are a lot of cases where removing the drain plug or turning the engine on its side...

Looks like the jet is missing. It slides down into that tube from the top. and has an O ring on it, and likes to fall out when you take the carb apart, and then disappears. Post the model type and code of the engine and we will be able to lead you toward the correct missing jet. Here is an...

The white cylinder with the rod with the ball on the end is the oil pump. and the wheel is the governor gear.

Bolting a larger engine up should be possible, but to go bigger you are most likely looking at V-twin engines. Also the dealing I have had with that engine manufacturer on other equipment has resulted in the engine having a metric crankshaft. And most US engines you will find have SAE diameter...

The ELS series was also equipment with washable air filters, and supposedly upgraded oil filters. Which for most people got tossed at the first service and got replaced with standard filters.

The original setup operates as a high vacuum system, but didn't allow enough air exchange to prevent too much vacuum from building in the fuel tank. causing a plugged gas cap vent effect. The new line going to the air cleaner housing basically creates an air leak within the evap system without...

Didn't loose the jet out of the bottom of the plastic emulsion tube did you. They like to fall out and don't get noticed.

That solenoid on the bottom of the carb should have two wires going to it. One grey and goes to battery power when the key is turned on and a black wire with normally a connector on the end that connects to the sheet metal screw behind the carb.

Does the fuel solenoid click when you turn the key on and off. if it isn't working it won't start.

The T is OEM from Kohler, and there was a bulletin about that T some time back and needed modifications on some engines due to strange dying issue. It is Kohler Bulletin SB-348

72994 is the seal kit part number for your unit.

Actually tapping the seat all the way back in and then using a center punch to go around the edge to push part of the aluminum over the edge of the seat is actually the Briggs authorized method to reinstall the seat, Or at least in cases where the seat hasn't enlarged the hole, which was common...

The diagram on the Husqvarna website shows the missing pulley as a number 9 or at least the diagram shows 2 of number 9 and 1 of number 10 in the part number description

Lets start with the model number of the mower as well as the model number of the engine from the valve cover. So we can see what variation of engine you have.

Ruixing carb. Same rules apply since Nikki has two JIS screws that hold the fuel bowl on instead of the Ruixing or Walbro has the fuel solenoid that bolts the fuel bowl to the carb.

This video should help you out about replacement of the springs. and also shows the connection location of both springs.

Would it be easier to remove the intake manifold to get the carb off, as opposed to removing the engine from the mower to get the muffler off.

Looks like a Walbro but should say Walbro on the carb. All the carbs used on the briggs engines normally have the same molded into the carb body. Also if you clean the dirt off of the carb body and should say LMT if Walbro. Also Nikki normally uses two JIS screws to mount the fuel bowl, as...

Next time it acts up loosen the gas cap and see if it helps. If that fixes it then the tank vent system isn't working and this is new enough to have the non vented fuel cap, so you may have the secondary vent which comes out of the top of the tank with a line either going to the air filter side...

The two governor springs are part number 690254 and 691859 the long spring is connected correctly, but the short spring also connect to the governor linkage where the long spring is connected but the other end connects to the tab sticking up closest to the throttle on the carb with the slot in...

Both use the same crankshaft part number so it should work. Looks like the main differences are the air filter, and the carb, and for some reason they use different camshaft but that won't matter in this case.

Maybe if the battery was back into it regular place and a wider shot picture may reveal the way to get the battery out.

Makes me wonder if the wring harness has been damaged allowing 12 volts to short to the kill circuit. At least sounds like the kill circuit has shorted to ground someplace.

Did the magnet impact the coil because the ignition module came loose,or did the magnet come loose from the flywheel. The only time I have seen this happen is when the top crankshaft bearing wears allowing free movement of the crank and it in turn pulls toward the module until it makes contact...

Something obscure but could be an issue. Is there anything blocking the bowl vent between the air filter housing and the carb . Gasket blocking vent, or RTV sealant used between the air filter housing and the carb.

Could it be possible that the valve while being stuck open made light contact with the piston, which bent the valve head slightly and now isn't setting flat on the seat preventing it from properly sealing.

Are you getting battery voltage to the B+ terminal of the regulator. Voltage below something like 10 volts at the terminal will prevent the regulator from turning on.

FD620D engine which I believe is your engine Standard ID is 75.98-76.00 mm (2.994-2.995) Max ID is 76.07 mm (2.997) .50 mm Oversize diameter is 76.46-76.48 mm (3..012-3.013) Piston OD is measured 11 mm or .443 inch from bottom of piston. Piston diameter is 75.935-75.950 mm (2.989-2.990)...

The single cylinder was that one with most of the issues. The twin courage is a decent engine, but did have some starter problems.

The 16 x 7.50 x 8 tires are available if you have 8 inch rims

Spark with the plug grounded against the engine block or spark confirmed with a good spark tester. Just because you have spark while grounding the plug against the engine doesn't mean it will spark at 180 psi compression.

Need to put a tach on it and see what it is running. Should be around 3750 no load. Or if you have a hz setting on your meter, set it to hz and then act like you are testing for voltage. Should be running around 60-62 no load. Then go back and check voltage, if you still don't have correct...

So is this a Troybilt push mower or rider. Model number of the mower and the model number from the engine will help us narrow down the possible issues with your mower.

Make sure the vent in the fuel cap isn't blocked causing a vacuum in the fuel tank.

I am finding that the 798760 doesn't show as a valid part number

There was actually 3 different fans used on that engine the before 04, between 04-06 and after 06. I am wondering if your didn't use the before 04 version which unfortunately has been discontinued.

You could take the hose off, and go someplace that makes hydraulic hoses. I don't know where you are located but Napa makes hoses in a lot of areas, or someplace that specializes in hydraulic repairs.

I would have to do some digging but some of the honda ignition system are ground to run.

Is this engine on a Honda push mower. If so then get the model and serial number from the mower frame. Honda engines used on Honda mowers are looked up by using the mower model and serial number not the engine model and serial.

Seems like the last one I worked on removing the three bolts still doesn't allow any pulley movement. Seems like something holds the pulley bearing in place preventing movement And i remembered why I had to remove the transmission to remove the variable bracket. The bracket has to be slide...

The bracket turns 90 degrees and there are three bolts that hold the variable pulley bearing assembly to the bracket, but it also bolts to the left side of the frame. Should be two 3/8 headed bolts on the left frame.

How about supplying us with the model and spec number of both engines so we can look up and see what we find. Sounds like the courage may have the 7/16 bolt and the cv14 has the 3/8 bolt.

Sometimes popular part numbers on popular pieces of equipment isn't that popular. There are several parts that look similar but are different enough that it will fit but not work correctly either short term or long term. 394018 air filter and the 692519 air filter are good examples. they...

You should be able to remove the two bolts to the bracket on the left frame rail. the 4 bolts to the axles and the two bolts on the front transaxle support bracket and it should come down. May not even have to completely remove the transaxle, just need enough wiggle room to work the belts off...

The used to have several model numbers for searching but most of them disappeared with the last software upgrade. It was convenient to look up parts sometimes, but don't mind checking by part number after I have the OEM number.

Sounds like float valve not shutting off the fuel flow allowing it to overflow the carb.

That was my thought the first time I worked on one, but it won't clear the frame to get it out without removing the complete transaxle.

I have used a small rod, screwdriver to put through one of the holes in the pulley and lock it from turning. Also that is a bracket that hooks under the axle,which holds the variable pulley in place and you will not be able to get the pulley out without totally dropping the transmission. just...

Sounds like starving for fuel. Pulling the choke about proves it. Since all the normal parts have been replaced. Just a though next time it starts doing then feel the carb bowl, and see if it is getting hot to the touch. Since everything has been replaced I am wondering if getting heat from...

Also could be the possibility that the hot wire corroded and shorted to the kill wire which fried the ignition module.

Same here. Not a good plug vs bad plug thing. More of a, you remove the plug anyway, easier and more reliable to just replace than go through the motions of cleaning and regapping. And I have seen brand new looking air filters be plugged to the point that black smoke rolls out the muffler...

I had issues with J19LM several years ago where you could install a plug in a push mower and it would run for 2-5 minutes and then quit with no fire. Replace the plug and do it again. Had about 100 plugs that did that one year. Switched to NGK after that. I have had a few like less than 5...

Did you install an OEM belt (584453101) or just a generic belt. And is the belt routed correctly.

think of the igniter as a ECU and the phaser as a trigger coil like was would be used on motorcycles and ATV's used with a normal powered coil.

Don't worry about lining up the blades, because they won't stay that way. Blades should be balanced, but don't go overboard since close is good enough. and also don't go overboard with the sharpening and needing a knife edge because it will wear off quickly and just results in more metal being...

two things deck hangers worn allowing deck to shift forward or pulleys worn allowing belt to run too low in grooves, or bottom out

And looks like the Briggs dealer distribution system doesn't have a single starter in any of their warehouses.

That sequence of gaskets and spacers and making sure you don't get them turned around backwards can be a challenge. Most shops don't even take them apart, since they are like $13

Sounds like it is dropping down to one cylinder when warm. Normally would mean a coil is quitting when hot.

It could even be on the blower housing above the head. But may need to remove the plastic covering the housing to see it.

In a few areas is it public information and has resulted in the names and addresses of carriers listed in the newspaper. Of course that resulted in the names, addresses, phone numbers of the people that printed it getting plasters all over the internet. Most states restrict that information...

Takes one of those special heads for the battery operated trimmers.

I also have to a have a FOID or Firearm owners ID card which is required to own, possess, or to purchase ammo . Plus have the FCCL(Firearm Conceal Carry License) to carry on my person. Both issued by the State police with pictures on both, and neither one qualifies as a valid ID.

My state won't accept it as a valid ID at the drivers license facility Most of the time I get parts from Partstree with 2-3 days of the order. I have had a couple times that took them a couple weeks. Just for comparison I have a trimmer head on backorder from July 29 through my normal...

I may of typed in an incorrect number the first time I tried to look up the diagram. Looks like all three systems were used on the engine. Can't mix and match parts, So I suspect incorrect carb not working with the other components.

I suspect your mower when you engage the brake it takes the tension off of the drive belt, and it doesn't have a return to neutral position.. And when you release the brake/clutch it is just like engaging the clutch on a gear transmission. On a Hydro unit the only time the brake should be used...

You get failure mainly due to two reasons. One if too much load is applied it overheats the oil causing abrasion, and two most of the cheaper hydro's don't have shock valves, and when you jerk the levers around it will build enough pressure to lift the pump off of the center sections, and when...

I would think that both valves should be setting at the same height if they were closed. Maybe you are off one complete revolution. Also appears that one adjuster is turned down more than the other. I just hope that the what appears to be an open valve hasn't slammed into the top of the piston

Take a picture of the air filter housing with the primer bulb and also the carb. Both from the front and from the top so we can see the linkages and other controls.

If the flywheel fan is broken is will cause lack of cooling and could lead to engine failure.

But that is the thing.. They are not the same thing. A clip is used to load a Magazine.

The parts diagram shows that this engine should have a choke that operated by position of the throttle cable. Not a primer, but since we don't know what the guy put on it, the carb that he installed may be jetted too rich for that engine and air filters cause some restriction resulting in a...

So you went from a primer type carb to one that should have a choke. How is the choke being opened since that would require different hardware to make it work.

The first two digits of the Code following the engine model number is the year of manufacture. The mower should be that year or the next

I would say you have reversed the lines on the primer. If you push fuel into the carb from the primer it will cause the symptoms you are having.

Try taping the wire won't hurt anything for shop testing. It will work or it won't

I think you are overthinking the smoke out the oil fill tube. Some smoke is normal. it gets a lot worse with a blown gasket. Something to consider. Could the mower be thinking is is going into reverse when you push the pedal all the way down.

Lets start with the model number of the mower as well as the model number of the engine so we can see what setup you are working onl

The Home store side of Sears is but was sold off from corporate before the big bankrupcy. Sears never made the stuff they sold. The craftsman equipment was made by several different companies over the years, but Sears always used the OEM part number of the company that made the product. So...

I was thinking the same about the label. My first thought was stolen.

Most MTD have just the main 20 amp fuse. I suspect the short caused by the damaged wires to the clutch could of damaged the pto switch itself.

If I was the OP and opened the engine us to check the compression release I would have a new cam ready to drop in. Seen too many of them with somewhat iffy operation over the years, and for the time it takes to get to the cam it isn't work the effort to have to do it a second time.

Sometimes the part number of the cable is printed on the cable housing itself. So may be worth a look.

most likely it is hydrolocked with either oil or gas. Remove the spark plug and turn the engine over slowly and see what comes out of the spark plug hole. I prefer to use compressed air to remove what is in the cylinder because gas when sprayed out of the spark plug hole can create static...

First lets make sure you are getting 12 volts to the clutch by testing with a volt meter connected to the two wires going from the tractor to the clutch. Will need to be on the seat with the key on and then engage the pto switch and check the voltage. If you have 12 volts then i would go back...

I would lean toward a key switch issue, but if you have a ohm meter I would pull the switch out and find out if you have continuity from the B terminal to the terminal that supplies power to the fuel solenoid. If you have continuity in the lights on position but not the run then I would think...

The belt breaking didn't damage the clutch wires did it, or did you forget to plug it back in after replacing the belt. You can have somebody sit on the seat and engage the pto and check too see if you have battery voltage at the clutch.

Sounds like two different brands of transmissions so may be complicated. The plastic one sounds like General transmission or GT and the aluminum would be tuff torq or hydrogear.

Should be one power source but I have seen cases where the key switch would have power to the solenoid is run but not start. may have to see if you have 12 volts or will light a test light in both the start and run positions.

After watching several times I don;t think it is decompressing correctly. Hard to tell with the uneven turning which kind of give a false feel of it being there. Where the bump off should be just don't look right.

Sounds like the engine is not turning over and the key has been held to the point that is melted the plastic housing of the starter solenoid. The two bolts in blue are most likely the bolts that mount the solenoid to the frame. I would start by making sure you can turn the engine over by hand...

Do you have a oil pressure switch next to the oil filter or on some it is located between the V behind the carb Will have a single wire going to it. If that switch is malfunctioning or you are having low oil pressure will cause the symptoms that you describe.

Rider crankshafts seldom get bent because the drive belt absorbs the shock load. I suspect something else is messed up. Remove the engine pulleys and clutch and then start without anything on the shaft and see if you still have a shake. If still shaking then I would worry about tearing into...

You don't get the metal filings out when you drain them either. it settles to the bottom in the back corners. I have suction drained them and then pulled the drain plug and the difference in the amount of oil you don't get out is minimal...

Could be spark plug misfire, or even though the gas is new could still a fuel issue.

That is the fuel tank vent, and vapor recovery system. It needs to be open to prevent a vacuum in the fuel tank. The only reason I can think of fuel coming out of there is the tank has been overfilled, and or sloshing out the vent tube. There could a filter type element inside the tank that...

I actually looked the Kohler part number on my distributor website, and the description showed the NGK number at the end.

Double check the model and spec. that spec number isn't showing as valid on the Kohler site. The first Commands used the ASAM, then went to DSAM, and to the DSAI and then to MDI. The 32 584 01 isn't a valid Kohler number but could of been a production part number. Also the 32 was normally a...

The fuse should be located close to the battery. If the battery is under the seat it will be in the area close to the starting solenoid next to the battery. they have been known to tape over the fuse holder making it hard to locate. Could also be clipped to the top of the rear hitch plate.

Is the choke closing all the way. Just take a few thousands to make starting hard.

The seat switch doesn't effect starting. Just effects running with the deck engaged or the brake released. It is shutting off because when you turn the key off it is killing power to the fuel solenoid on the carb.

NGK DCPR7E

Someplace that white wire or another location on the mower is grounding that wire preventing spark. Doesn't take much sometimes.

Make sure the wire coming off of the coil to ground hasn't also been chewed and is now grounding on the engine block.

When you turn the key on and off can you feel or hear the solenoid on the bottom of the carb click.

I am using my Tecumseh oil extraction system I purchases years ago. Electric vacuum pump and 3 gallon recovery tank. Use it on most engine except Kohler because of the lip at the bottom preventing tube from reaching bottom on the Command engines. Works well for the Briggs engines on riders...

The new ones are MTD rebranded. The model number comes back MTD for his.

The tappet clearance is to account for heat expansion and to prevent the valves from being slightly open when hot. The tappets should push the valves up when the crankshaft is turned which turns the camshaft and the lobes open the valves.

No there are a few that they have used.

Took my at the time 79 year old mother that used a walker to get around to Aldi to go grocery shopping and I had to sit down and rest before we got done.

Never smokes but did chew from when I was about 18 until 46. Got up on Valentines day in 2014 sick and couldn't hold anything down which forced me to go cold turkey. And 4 months later ended up in the ER after collapsing on the kitchen floor. Spent two days in the hospital doing cardiac...

The model and specification number would of been on a sticker most likely on the blower housing, which like to either come off or fade making it hard to read. Is this a Command or a Courage because both were made in 25 hp. also vertical or horizontal shaft.

Haven't come across one of those since the Homelite days. Most saws use a rotating plunger type pump that is powered from the sprocket. Still leak on most says partially due to poor seals, and couple that with the one way vents on the tanks makes them prone to temperature changes which in...

Honda normally stamps the numbers into the block just below the blower housing on the right side of the engine. Look for a flat spot, and may even have a slight cutout on that side of the blower housing to read the numbers. Can be hard to read sometimes because they tend to use a dot format...

Nothing like people looking for $100-150 riding mowers, or $20 push mowers.

Flip the top cover over and see if there is an alignment slot that the tab on top of the counterweight may be designed to run in,

Having the model number from under the seat will assist us in giving you correct information. Most likely the parking brake on the right side of the transmission is stuck. Looks like a small disc with either a flat lever either sticking up or down. Move that lever and see if it releases.