Recent content by ILENGINE

Little behind the times. SBD purchased the other 20% in 2023.

And the MTD name is now being replace with SBD outdoor. Stanley Black and Decker Outdoor.

4.10/3.50x5 is approximately 11 inch in diameter. So maybe narrower than the spec'ed tire but same height.

Front 11x4-5 4 ply rear 18x9.5-8 4 ply

Small limbs can cause the chain to ride up out of the top chain rail also any sideloading of the bar can cause flexing to the point of throwing the chain. And the longer the bar the easier it is to throw the chain. Just some outside thoughts I have personally seen with saws,

Things to looks at would be the steering sector gear, and bushings. The wheel spindles, the tie rods, The front axle and bushings, and in some cases even the frame were the axle bolts into it.

Fuel pump replaced but no change in running. I am going to try to swap the carb when it gets here Monday and see what happens. I did test the pump I took off and it wouldn't hold pressure

The parts diagram is saying it takes a 954-05022A not the 754/954-04118. The 754-04118 is 122.5 inches and the 954-05022 is 108.3. According to parts looks up the 754-04118 is for the 2008ish 46 inch and the 2011 and newer 54 inch decks.

The irony about this entire situation is my nephew owns a stump grinding business.

For me this morning it is going from won't load to the fastest it has been in months.

Oil level was fine. Maybe not at the full mark but within tolerances. Did an oil and filter change along with a new air filter while I had the mower.

The last 3 Kawasaki engines that I tried Champion plugs in wouldn't start hot. I won't touch another Champion if I can avoid them.

It would really help if we had the model, type, and code from the engine so we could see what your engine looks like. A 140cc engine narrows our options down to a few hundred variants.

It also doesn't help when they show illustrations with diagram numbers that are not used.

The only spring for your throttle is the 209B. Your model-type-trim doesn't use a secondary spring like some other versions of engine do. Some have 2 governor springs and others only have in your case the one.

Today Ardisam/Earthquake has announced that they are suspending all service part orders until further notice citing the current tariff environment. So parts sold online and through dealer distributors are limited to stock on hand.

An I I forgot about the sheared flywheel keys on 5 HP horizontal shaft flat head Briggs engines on tillers.

Threaded Stihl piston stop for 10mm spark plug hole

Shipping delayed. Suppose to be here tomorrow. OEM pump.

Your first picture looks like the PTO button is pulled up. So check the pto knob to make sure it is down.

Could be a fuel tank leak but I would be looking very closely to the fuel line and fuel tank grommets at the tank junction. I think that would be more likely the leak area.

Is anybody else seeing a pattern of repairs In the past 2 weeks I have had a failed keyswitch on a JD Z225 and a CC ZTR-S60. Today was a burnt connector with blackened terminals on a fuel solenoid that is showing NLA on a Husqvarna Craftsman. Funny thing is the digital IPL shows a Walbro carb...

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I had an issue with a name brand starter solenoid years ago. I purchased a box of 5 of this solenoid from my parts distributor. Every solenoid failed after exactly 3 starts.

This thing has already been through the 2.3 gallon 6 transducer ultrasonic cleaner for 2 30 minute cycles, plus had all the passages ran with a thin wire and blown out with both carb cleaner and compressed air. And my experience with Amazon carbs has been not great. All have tended to fail...

Spraying around intake manifold gaskets does nothing. Spraying into the carb causing a rich run. I have since discovered posting this that the fuel pump is bleeding off, so I am questioning fuel flow. Have a new pump ordered and will see what happens.

No broken spindle housings. She said she hit a stump.. I don't think there was a stump involved. I think the worse of the 3 blades came apart and go so imbalanced she thought she hit something. All 3 of the blades had their tips line up after the new blades were installed, so nothing was even...

Received this mower last week after the customer said she hit a stump and deck started making loud noises and was vibrating. I think the issue long before she hit the supposed stump.

You cannot remove the bearings without damaging them. Only possible way would be to put the spindle in a press and then may sideload damage the bearings, or crack the spindle housing. Either way you will need to replace the bearings if you remove them from the spindle.

It appears you have the Nikki carb which the jets inserted from the top of bolt in emulsion tube by both the tiny O ring that is on the jet and also the diffuser tubes that are attached to the carb and slide down inside of the emulsion tube. If the emulsion tube is unbolted and removed and it...

I would start with checking the battery and/or charging it. If it didn't crank by jumping the starter solenoid I would be leaning toward dead battery.

I think the steering rod to the front wheel is installed backwards. from the parts diagram needs flipped 180.

I didn't include a part number for the OHV valve gasket set because in most cases the only thing you will use will be the head gasket, and the exhaust gasket.. The gasket set doesn't include the O ring for the plastic intake manifold, just the paper gasket for the metal intake. Also most of...

273280S is the head gasket https://www.partstree.com/models/219907-0131-b1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/cylinder-head-gasket-set-engine-gasket-set-valve-intake-manifold-valves-6/

I think you are at a crossroads. The powder coat has done what it does. Peel off in sheets. The replacement cost of the deck will amount to about 50% of a new mower cost. So this one could go either way in my opinion. The hood looks to still be in good shape which is normally the first...

The 2 things may not be related. I have seen the seals on the Command series engines just get loose and fall out. Usually happens after a few hundred hours.. Even the new seal going in doesn't fit all the tight sometimes.

Just below the ring that inserts into the oil pump there is a bent finger protrusion that is suppose to lock the pickup to the pump. The hook is broke off of your pickup which is the reason it fell out. https://a.co/d/gB1S79v

Checked compression on both the 750 and the 620 The 750 is reading 125-130 on both cylinders hot. For comparison the 620 is reading 170 on #1 and 220 on #2. The Mule is having intermittent issues with the valve in the electric fuel pump which didn't act up the day I was doing the initial...

Auto Doc there is no way of knowing how long this engine has been acting up. Maybe it hasn't been running correctly for several years. And what I have been reading makes it sound like sudden low compression and loss of power and shutting down is more common that you would think. Several...

Straight from the FD750D service manual Compression Measurement • Before measuring compression, do the following. 􀀀 Be sure the battery is fully charged. 􀀀 Thoroughly warm up the engine so that engine oil between the piston and cylinder wall will help seal compression as it does during normal...

It is.

Update. It appears that there are sources that have the compression for this engine incorrect. The source I came across say compression was supposed to be 107. But that is a misprint and is actually supposed to be 170. Gentleman we have a compression problem.

Current part number is 37x88MA.

This carb has a 2 screw cover that covers a cavity that basically acts like the fuel bowl vent. It has separate air bleed screws that can be accessed from outside the carb. I have blown carb cleaner through the air bleed but may go back and recheck with running wire through the air bleed...

Just as a side note for reference. The 750 lbs atv/mower lift is only rated for 500 lbs as a mower lift.

I have removed the main jets and have both sprayed them out and also cleaned any old residue out with a wooden toothpick. And the fuel solenoid has been both operated by hand to make sure it wasn't sticking and also bench tested to make sure it is retracting. It seems to run relatively good at...

It is in the back of my mind. I don't remember any of the valves short stroking like the lobe is worn but I need to pull the valve covers back off and make sure they are not short duration. Meaning the lift is normal but the valve open time could be shortened if the lobe has narrowed due to...

I have and with no change. So I don't think leaking that much air around the shaft. Leakdown testing shows less than 15% bypass at TDC so at least top of stroke the rings, head gasket and valves are sealed.

Lets start with the model number of the mower. So we don't have to guess which of the 1000 different models of cub cadets mower you are trying to repair and what the spring looks like or even a picture may help.

The green wire is connector to the oil pressure switch. Could have 12 volts with the key on due to it being on the ground side of the oil pressure light. Basically the oil pressure switch provides the ground to turn on the oil pressure light.

I am going to say NO, but truely unknown. I am thinking in the back of my mind this a valve issue also, but without pulling the exhaust and the intake and draining the cooling system to pull the heads to examine the valves won't be able to prove it.

I have this engine on a Scag that is runnng poorly. New NGK BPR2ES plugs. Been through the carb. Adjusted valves to factory spec. Compression on both cylnders is around 110. Will not start hot or cold without choke. Popping back through the intake intermittent on both carb barrels...

Depending on year of mower there is the possibility of a clogged fuel cap vent. Also there could be debris in the fuel tank that is stopping fuel leaving the tank. After those things check out. I have seen a couple cases were the heat shield that should be covering the exhaust manifolds is...

Hear the click from the carb, And can also put your hand on the solenoid and feel it click.

That wire I am thinking about may just be on the vertical engines. If you have the metal intake manifold it may not have the grounding wire. If it is plastic there will be a secondary wire that connects to the carb to ground it.

First issue is finding out why there is no fuel coming from the tank. Possibly debris stuck in the pickup tube. And the solenoid is connected to that wire that connected to the bullet connector. There should be battery voltage present with the key both in the start and run key positions, but...

If you disconnect the fuel line between the carb and fuel pump and crank the engine does the fuel pump, pump fuel into a jar or other container. And does the fuel solenoid on the carb click when the key is turned on and off.

I would rather replace the belt on the 445 deck than replace the belt on the JD freedom deck.

If one of the push rods is down in the engine sump. the bottom of the engine will need to be removed to retrieve the push rod and/or parts before they cause more damage. I have seen push rods get wrapped around the cam and break the compression release. You will need the crankshaft seal and...

A replacement engine will be in the $1K range more or less. A new rider will start at $2K and go up, so have to decide from their.

It may not knock even if one rod is broke. And a missing push rod will prevent it from running on that cylinder. Intake push rod won't normally cause a popping noise. Sometimes the exhaust valve push rod missing can cause a popping back through the intake, but not always.

Remove the spark plug and turn the engine over slowly by hand and see if that piston is going up and down. Remove the valve covers and see if the push rods are still in place and not fallen out.

Here you go. It is an Murray made by MTD manuals https://www.mtdparts.com/en_US/prior-year-models/murray-riding-lawn-mower-model-13an77ss058/13AN77SS058.html parts https://www.partstree.com/models/m-175-42-13an77ss058-murray-42-lawn-tractor-2019/

@trooper1954 I think the diagram is somewhat misleading They show the washer going on before the adjuster wheel mounting plate, but the washer will not fit over the part that screws into the wheel mounting plate

On the Kohlers you can full choke cold start them with a failed fuel solenoid. I have seen it more than once in my career. I have even limped them into the shop. As soon as your open the choke they die, but will run roughly on full choke with the solenoid either not energized or stuck shut.

Here is a picture of the 110-7191 that we are saying is the correct part. You can compare it to the washer in your picture They look identical to me.

The afterfire solenoid has no effect on the float valve, or fuel flowing into the carb. So as the fuel in the bowl evaporates it will be replaced with fuel from the tank in a gravity flow situation. If the float valve fails the carb will still overflow and flood the engine, The only purpose...

Here it is on the Toro parts website item 15 https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails?id=48721&iid=454794&pid=501829

They maybe calling it a thrust washer item 15 on this diagram https://www.partstree.com/models/20374-toro-22-recycler-walk-behind-mower-sn-402090000-403499999/rear-wheel-and-height-of-cut-assembly-13/

I don't know if your have a Briggs engine or not but some have a plastic tip on the fuel solenoid in the carb bowl. Have had a few were the tip would come off and shut off the engine. You could turn off the key and back on and it would start and run for a period until the tip would come off...

I think you misunderstand what was being discussed. The 1/8 inch was not the valve clearance gap but how far the cam lobe lifted the valve when it opened.

Actually it is NOT. A fuel shutoff solenoid shuts off fuel flow into the carb. The afterfire solenoid doesn't effect fuel flow into the carb or the fuel bowl, and won't prevent the carb from overflowing if the float valve fails, only stops fuel from being drawn into the carb venturi to help...

After looking at your parts diagram it appears that engine has the Kohler Command with the solenoid shift starter. It could be just the starter bendix not fully engaging which would prevent crank and the clutch issue could be a separate issue. Or could be really serious and the engine or...

Fuel flow restriction going into the carb. And the engine is running long enough to drain the fuel bowl on the carb. And wlll probably restart after a few minutes when there has been a little time for the slow flow to refill the carb.

When looking at the parts diagram for your mower it appears the diagram doesn't match the parts on your mower. It looks like the pinion gear in your picture has 2 flat sides and locks to the shaft, where as the pinion gear in the diagram has a 4 sided keyed hole set up for a slipper style key.

Battery not charging and the electric clutch shutdown after the battery got low enough, and now doesn't have enough lightning bolts left to crank the engine.

People tend to use coil and ignition module interchangeably but are not the same thing actually

MTD and JD do not use standard width or length belts. And cannot be substituted because they will not work properly or get damaged in a short period of time. And since you are describing the 2 belt system then you also need to replace both belts at the same time or the system won't sync the...

Sheared flywheel key in this won't prevent spark. Would effect starting and running but will still produce spark.

Technically it is a CDI. The new style briggs ignition modules are Capacitive Discharge Ignition.

Or the wheel motor has seized. Have worked on this exact model where the wheel motor would seize after getting hot. Jack up the left side and see how well the wheel turns. may have to activate the pump bypass to check.

1/8" valve opening is about half of what they should open. And I currectly have 2 OEM cams on backorder with an ETA of October.

And that was based on the idea that synthetic oil wouldn't allow the rings to wear in properly to seat. And the truth is most engines are using synthetic straight from the factory. Doesn't matter if a lawnmower engine or your automobile engine. Most are coming from the factory with synthetic...

Does the throttle in the carb move freely without binding. If so then I would honestly say the governor gear inside the engine is roached.

Does the throttle in the carb move freely without binding. If so then I would honestly say the governor gear inside the engine is roached.

If you watch the video the tach is showing 4660.

And just to add to Tiger if it is the carb with the metal fuel bowl, don't figure the bowl nut because that is were the main carb jet is located.

If not a Briggs carb the aftermarket carb could be suspect. Also an intake air leak between the carb and were the intake pipe connects to the engine block could cause lean issue. And third an issue with the governor. If you hold the governor steady to stop the surging how does the engine...

Loping or throttle surging is normally caused by a dirty carb that has idle passage in the carb clogged. If you engage the trimmer head does the loping go away or no different

Looks like the carb and air filter housing are moving around. Are the carb mounting bolts tight. If they are loose will cause an air leak which can effect engine rpm. If you disconnect the governor spring what does the rpm's do. They should go to idle if the governor is working. If it...

1.3 converts to a .050 gauge bar. If you are just replacing the bar and have 80 dl chains you want to continue using, then you need a 80 dl bar. If you are replacing both the bar and chain and don't have extra chains that you want to use then you can purchase the normal 78 dl bar and 78dl...

And if I replace the coils the problem goes away. See it at least once or twice a year. And in your scenario the coil that is still connected to the ground wire would still not have spark. But if I disconnect one coil they both will have spark including the one that should be grounded through...

So what is happening when I disconnect a kill wire from either coil, and both spark, but if you reconnect the kill wire to both coils neither will spark. Or have the engine running and ground one spark plug wire and the engine dies. Restart the engine and ground the opposite spark plug and the...

Crosstalk diode in one module failing can potentially shut down both modules. Wouldn't be the first I have seen on Kawasaki engines. And we don't have the spec number for the engine or what brand of equipment it is mounted on.

Are both valve opening the same distance. I have seen one cam lobe wear down causing similar issues with rpm and running.

Shuts off all at once leads me to think the issue is not fuel related but more igntion related. Loosing spark when something gets hot.

The sprocket will be specific to the saw, but could have the option of a .325 or 3/8 pitch sprocket. Now bars can get more complicated due to different lengths and different gauges. The chain pitch, gauge, and drive count have to match the bar. So a .325 pitch with .050 gauge( drive link...

When it shuts off does the engine sputter and run rough before dying or does it die like the key was turned off I am wondering if it fuel or spark related

The model number the OP put in the original post is an L head engine.