Recent content by ILENGINE

No additional washer.

Correct. The key just is a placeholder to keep the flywheel and crankshaft in the proper alignment while the torque is applied.

Basically your main two options are the AXXE and its generics, and Roundup and its generics. There are probably other herbicides but could run into the applicator license required to purchase.

There are very few broad spectrum non specific herbicides on the market that are not soil residual And glyphosate(roundup) has been used so much over the last few years in ag that there are a lot of weeds that are glyphosate resistant.

Most common causes of sheared flywheel keys on riders is oil or grease on the crankshaft taper or improper torque. Unless you hit something that causes a sudden stop of the flywheel. And I have had them shear and rotate the flywheel 180 degrees on startup when not set with a proper torque...

Went and measures the valve lift from the rocker arm back to the head on the valve side like you referenced in your example on an old engine. Not the same model number but would have the same camshaft. And I got around 1 CM of movement like you did.

It may just be the angle but it looks like the valve in video isn't moving very far. Maybe a 1/4 inch. How does the valve lift compare between the two valves if you turn the flywheel by hand, and compare the movement from fully closed to fully open. And that clunking may be due to the engine...

Is there a lot of side slop in the governor shaft. Even worn sloppy ones normally don't leak much more than a seep.

Will need actual Scag model number to see if we can find a wiring diagram for your mower.

On most of those engines they didn't run a governor shaft seal because the shaft is normally above the oil level. I would be checking oil level to make sure it is correct. If that engine has one of those low oil caps take on off and see what runs out. Oil level should be just at the top of...

Basically it a hande that you have to grip to tell the mower that you are in control. Or something similar

Alright Jim so down. You are starting to talk about things that most shops have never seen or even heard about. So what we know. You have spark, You have compression, and you are adding fuel. So all three element are present to at least start and run shortly. So that leaves the...

The stator coil and the flywheel magnets for the charging system are under or in the flywheel. If you broke those loose could of been the loud noise that you were describing when turning the flywheel.

Any of the testers that don't jump an actual gap will give false positives. The grounded spark plug can be more reliable than blink testers but can cause issues sometimes were they will spark outside the engine but not spark under compression. I tend to use these for cases were I am working...

If you are using one of those LED blink spark testers they will give false positives. So if the plug has an internal short will still blink the light but won't actually create spark at the plug

I would be looking at an operator present switch or related wiring. Basically similar to how a seat switch on a ride on mower works.

Not battery powered but mower mounted weedeater http://palmowingsystem.com/

You would be surprised by the number of repair shops that don't clean blades prior to sharpening or even own a blade balancer.

Because it wasn't a battery issue, It was a loose connection or terminal corrosion issue that got resolved when the wires were removed from the old battery and connected to the new battery.

I don't think it was done that way to be a scam. I suspect that it was assumed that the no start was due to a carb or fuel issue, which in a very large portion of no starts would be a true statement. Now basing on that statement the fix would be a new carb due to time and cost...

The KISS method works most of the time when the failed component is the cause of the failure. KISS method doesn't apply to electrical because a simple solution is normally part of a complex problem. The KISS method of electrical is you have to understand and work the system, and you can't jump...

I have heard of people purchasing the expired DEF by the tote, from ag supply companies and using it for lawn fertilizer. It is mostly Urea and high in nitrogen.

The banging could be a clue. Could be something as simple as the motor mounts bolts being loose, to total engine destruction.

No mention of surfactant use so I wouldn't worry about it Some chemicals have the surfactant already included It looks like you will need about 1 gallon of mixed products containing 8 ounces of chemical for less than 1 inch grass, 12 ounces for 1-4 inch grass/weeds, and 16 ounces/pint for...

If the flywheel was not properly torqued to spec it could of sheared the new flywheel key.

Label says does not migrate through the soil and does not translocate through the plants. So you should be able to plant after tilling and should be fine in the drip line of fruit trees, just need to avoid contact with any part of the tree that is above ground. Will kill currently growing...

The fuel solenoid only stops fuel flow from the carb bowl into the jets It will not prevent ignition from a fuel that is poured into the intake. Safety switches would prevent spark. So if you have spark that is not the issue. So that leaves compression or lack thereof and spark timing...

Here is the use label for that chemical https://biosafesystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/axxe-broad-spectrum-herbicide_label.pdf

Heat would mean resistance. Make sure the wire connection at the motor is tight. Sometimes doesn't take much to really cause issues.

My first question would be can you turn the flywheel by hand. That might give a clue to the failure to crank. If it won't turn then remove the spark plug and try again. Could be a case of gas has leaked from the carb, and hydrolocked the engine

From the parts diagram that I looked at the top nut is actually made into the spindle shaft,

70-90 ft-lb or 95-122 N-m

My guess it is somebody local and knows you and possibly has your security codes.

Business liability insurance doesn't cover customer items. And tools, inventory, real estate is a separate rider. Don't know of any business liabiltiy that covers customer items left at the dealership.

Running rich. something wrong with the carb. Poosibly a jet has fallen out causing it to pull in too much gas under load. Just as a side note also make sure the oil doesn't smell like gas, because gas fumes from the crankcase can cause similar issues.

Could have an issue with the mow in reverse safety system. If the mower thinks it is in reverse, and the reverse mow system isn't working correctly or not engaged could be causing the engine to shutdown.

Something else to keep in mind. So the the KT series us fixed CDI timing modules and some use the MDI spark advance system. And the two systems are not interchangeable and if the wrong ones are installed will manifest as a bad timing issue.

.010 inch or in your case .25 mm is the correct air gap

Unless you took the nut/bolt loose that holds the flywheel and didn't retorque it properly you didn't change the flywheel timing. Did you set the air gap between the new ignition modules and the flywheel properly. On some engine the flywheel magnets stick out just slightly further than the...

Need to confirm because I am making a guess. The Briggs model number MAYBE 126607-0162-E1

That plug must of come off of an airplane. Because at my shop it would be taking its last flight across the shop into the trash can.

Sometimes nothing. But most of the time the mating surface were the piston mates up looks like the scrathed up area on the bottom of your piston motor, or worse. The Hydro-gear approved test is if you run a fingernail across the surface and it catches it is damaged beyond use.

See if this helps https://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=6QnrsL-9ZhXwH8

The 7 piston pump is part number 70723 ($105.06) The motor assy block is 72882 ($53.12) and the center section is 71561 ($227.06) and the seal kit is 73107 ($41.36) And make sure to make a note or mark the charge pump cover so it gets reinstalled the same direction. If turned 180 degrees will...

For single cylinder engines the smaller battery would be fine. For V twins then go with the larger one, but in reality the larger battery can be used for both style of engines.

At this point is would help us if we had the Briggs model number information from the engine so we can check the parts diagrams and other sources to determine what setup your engine has. Briggs has several different versions depending on the engine. But is a quick rundown. When the engine...

That would be my assessment. Idler pulley bearing failing.

The first post in this thread may be relative to your situation. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/my-friend-got-ripped-off-by-the-dealer.77234/

Yes, but models and brands are very limited in that configuration.

It isn't so much as what blade you are using The stripping effect is more a mower design. Some mowers use a series of rollers or rubber flaps. or a brush to comb the grass to make the checkerboard effect. Do a search for mower striper kit, and it will give you a better idea of what it is.

The thermostats purpose it to hold the choke open for a warm restart. The air vane should immediately open the choke fully at startup. Some of the engine have had issues with people bagging that have to shut off the engine to empty the bag and have issue with restart because the engine hasn't...

So it basically went from running 12 hours on a tank of fuel to 2.5 hours.

Lets start with this diagram for the answer to your first question https://www.partstree.com/models/s-200xt-5901280-snapper-pro-s200xt-series-61-zero-turn-mower-27hp-briggs-stratton/engine-pto-group-s-n-2017681136-below-34/ Scroll down to item 14A in the list on the right and it shows Warner...

Going to need the pump unit and at least the center section. I would go ahead and get the motor also, and change all three items as a unit.

Here is where I found it at. https://www.warnerptodirect.com/shop/pto-clutches/5218-221

Looks like the original clutch used on that model per PD was the 5100084 which appears to be the 5218-221 but the superceded number of 5105090 and 5105090YP are the 5218-134. Stens is crossing the 5105090 over to 255-827 or 5218-221. And it looks like Warner electric is showing the 5218-221...

See testing instructions in the post by Star just above yours for testing procedures.

I am coming up with the 5105090YP superceded from 5105090 from the 5100084 which is coming back to a X0245 for a replacement for the 5218-221 warner clutch. But the 5105090 is showing the 5218-134 for the X0216. But if you put the S200XT into the xtremeope search is shows the x0245. But both...

I would be either suspecting the charging system is overcharging causing coil overheat possibly damaging the bearings or overtorque of the crankshaft bolt causing a side load on the bearings causing failure. But could of just been a faulty clutch. been having issues with parts not working out...

Lets start with the brand on exact model of mower so we know what you are talking about. At this point we know it is a mower with an electric clutch. What engine, what mower.

Several years ago my local community college taught a small engine and mower repair course. The only prerequisite was you had to be an inmate at the local state prison.

Brake pedal depressed and the pto turned off. And in some cases being on the seat or some mowers require the transmission to be in neutral if a gear drive.

Thanks for letting us know you have found the issue and now have it repaired.

The reason I posted what I did was because some versions required the headlights to be functional and if they were burned out or disconnected the RMC wouldn't work. Was changed on later models to operate separately from the headlights.

I suspect the Intek single cylinder blow head gasket issue. Head gaskets will blow between the cylinder wall and the push rod cavity. Then combustion gas gets pushed into the crankcase which then pushes oil out of the fuel pump vent and the crankcase breather where it is drawn into the engine...

Looks like the hydro-gear EZT units. So the filters are internal and would require removal and disassembly to replace the strainers, so not feasible. Depending on if you can get to the fill plugs are not you maybe able to suck out what fluid you can get, measure it and then replace that amount...

This may sound dumb but do your headlights work. Some of the early versions wouldn't operated unless at least 1 headlight was operational.

That can be some of the shockloads, but you also need to consider that most idler/bearing pulleys are a cheap 2RS sealed bearing enclosed inside of a dust collector.

The question becomes is the engine locking up or the pump.

The engines where you have to grind the valve stems are the L or flat heads which the main issue I have seen over the years with those is the valve face wears into the seat. Sometimes to the effect of .010-.015 which shows as a groove in the valve face. And with fewer moving parts less room for...

Deck bearings both in the idlers and the spindles seem to be hit and miss as far as longevity. Had a Yardman years ago that I had to replace all three deck spindles under warranty on a less than 1 month old mower due to deck vibration from the spindles would make your feet tingle within seconds...

Normally I will kick the deck on and just listen for unusual noises as well as feel for vibrations. I have had decks basically run silent with only the blade air noise, but makes your feet feel numb in seconds. Or if you feel vibration or noise then start looking further. Some spindles and...

I have always said that being a mechanic is something that you have to be born with. To be a true mechanic you have it in your DNA. You will have the underlying mindset of wanting to know how things work, and that is not something that can be taught.

I was being a shade tree mechanic yesterday. I was putting the deck back on a Simplicity in the shade of the pine tree in my backyard.

I have had a few this year that had to use the air chisel to break through the built up grass under the deck. Twisted knot wire brush trying to clean the buildup off the blades prior to sharpening just polishes it to a nice gloss finish.

So your buddy took it to a no diagnostics parts changer center posing as a lawnmower shop. Just dealt with one of those this morning. Guy took his 3 year old Echo trimmer to two different shops, Symptom was engine wouldn't suddenly go to full throttle. One shop told him the carb needed...

Had one in the shop several years ago that had worn the intake lobe almost round so the valve was only open for a short period of time. Symptoms were the throttle butterfly was being pulled to the full open position by the governor spring but the engine would only run 2400 rpm.

I just had a CR950 the other day that would appear to leak gas from the fuel bowl when the tiller that the engine was attached to was tipped forward. The tank actually had a 1 inch long crack about 4 inches from the carb.

I tend to pay more attention to smoothness when turning and noise than I do slop. Have had too many pulleys that wiggle, thinking the bearing is going bad, and find that the new OEM pulley has more slop then the one you are thinking about replacing.

Sounds like aftermarket head. And those two push to remove can be a pain to unlatch sometimes. Almost have to push the tab at the same time as prying the two halves apart.

From what I can gather from the IPL the knob on the head unscrews, being aware since this is a straight shaft trimmer the knob could be left hand thread so righty loosey lefty tighty, the opposite of what most things are.

And which of the over 5000 variation of a Briggs engine is leaking gas. Without model number info we have no idea what your engine looks like or where to start guessing the origin of the gas.

engine model number info from valve cover would assist. Also the model number of the mower isn't showing up in the system. so may want to confirm model number in your description

Commercial units fall under different ANSI standards, and MTD was the company that started the mowing in reverse issue due to a MTD mower owner backing over his daughter killing her. I seem to remember was in Ohio, as well as the little girl in Florida that lost both legs. Neighbor had a...

Surging no load but runs fine and smooth under load indicates a partial clog of the idle circuit in the carb.

Have come across a few OEM Briggs that delobed the cam

I wouldn't been as concerned over what oil they put in it, I would be more concerned if it was properly filled and the oil level is not low causing foaming and cavitation leading to air lock.

The fact that you can drive the mower kind of indicates that the seat switch and the relay are working. Lets try this, with the mower not running and you sitting on the seat or weight in the seat and you engage the pto switch does the clutch engage with a click/cluck. Or you can also try...

Have you looked at the throttle plate in the carb. If it came loose and is jammed in the intake will effect throttle control. Other than that it sounds like a failed governor. But an intake air leak between the carb and the head cause also effect engine speed.

Looks like that mower has a relay. Pin 85 on the relay gets its power from the seat switch. If no power or the relay has failed will create a direct path to ground shutting off spark.

If the deck belt is installed remove it and try again to confirm that the deck doesn't have a binding issue. Also can you drive the mower or does that also cause a shutdown.

Also keep in mind is the belt alignment for the transmission

@elmrfudd Smell the oil for a gas smell. Gas fumes in the oil coming out of the breather will cause a rich run issue with the air cleaner installed but not when the air filter is removed due to the breather not being captured by the air filter.

Also sold under the Troy-Bilt name

I have come across several Z-turns over the years with reverse safety switches. They are only activated when both levers are pulled into reverse. Just like the Husqvarna Z254 I worked on a couple weeks ago that required you to pull both levers into the drive position at the same time or it...

How to eliminate the seat switch is as easy as turning off the deck and setting the parking brake before getting off the seat.

The aluminum pushrod on the Briggs Intek since it rubs on the guide wears in two.

From the Hydro-gear dealer site it shows the ZJ-HPEE-3F7B-29LX using the 53826 fan Hydro-gear website doesn't show a JF7B version

Stens for the most part has decent parts. And the factory oil from Hydrogear is 20W50 motor oil.The big push the last few years is to synthetic oils, which in the case of mowers don't extend oil change intervals. And if you have used 30W for that long I don't see any reason to change that.

The Z turn has less chance of rolling, but a much bigger chance of sliding down the hill. The best option would be a lawn tractor and mowing up and down.

Justin, what is at the bottom of the hill that you will be mowing. Z-turns for the most part don't do well on slopes. Especially if trying to mow side to side. There is nothing on the front of the mower to help hold the slope so all steering and slide prevention is on the back wheels. The...

Some of the polymers used in trimmer line are hydroscopic. So they dry out and get brittle. Nylon for one.

I looked up the Ferris model that you provided which lead me to the Hydro-gear model number and then used the number to look up parts for that hydro-gear to come up with that fan part number. The past way to confirm would be to provide the actual model number from the hydr-gear unit itself. Be...

The hydro-gear part number for the fan is 53826

Your mower uses the Hydrogear ZT-3100 drives which use the hydrogear part number 52114. But can also use the 72750 oil change kit which is 5 quarts of oil and two filters. The pump that mounts onto the bottles, and the fittings to connect to the drives, But with the reservoir systems you...

Sounds like you are getting afterfire while moving the throttle from full to idle. Issue could be an unburnt fuel issue, but could also be the muffler itself that is causing the issue.

All brands have weird names for parts. The rope pulley on a Stihl is called a rope rotor. Getting ready to install drive barrels on a CC 2140.

I have worked on several mini-bikes and ATV 2 strokes over the years that have a separate oil tank with a mechanical oil pump that injects the oil into the intake post carb.

Should work but just watch for cracking along the edge starting where the deck pieces are broke out. Or it will do the same thing again except may just let the engine fall out.

Glad to know that you got it running great now. Sometimes you run into situations where you can't get them clean and just have to replace. And I normally try to be civil until somebody gives me a reason not to be.

The interstate SP-45 is a group 45 battery with 480 CCA. $125

I think about your only option to do the repairs will require the use of a welder unfortunately.

The answer gets easy. The 25 403 04-s and the 25 755 23-s both supercede to the 24 755 144-s which is the one that replaces both of the regulators that you list. But without the spec number from your engine we can't determine what one that engine had either.

Your mower has a Briggs engine means that the model number of the engine needs to be used to look up parts. But from the MTD dealer site it appears that mower used the 09P702-0002-B1 which uses carb part number 590556 As a sign note why are you needing to replace the carb. I have never had...

Experienced guys either fold them down or remove them before using the mower. The newbies are the ones that unload their new mower off the trailer and proceed to drive across the yard hooking the first tree branch they try to go under and either break the branch off and get hit in the head...

Not with Kohler due to how the fuel solenoid interacts with the carb jets. Kohler doesn't shut off fuel flow to the idle circuit of the carb. So if you idle before shutdown there is a higher chance of causing a afterfire event. Kohler recommends 1/2 to full throttle shutdown.

Or in some cases even change the spark plugs.

Should be a fairly consistent 1/4 inch stream coming out of the fuel pump when cranking. Dribbling out or very irratic could signal either a fuel pump problem, or an issue with the vacuum pulse line that moves the pump diaphragm or a fuel flow restriction from any place from the fuel pump...

I will give you a heads up. As a dealer If I request an emergency parts order through my MTD parts distributor. to be dropped shipped from MTD, the only option I have is UPS next day air, and you know how much that cost. Shipped in 14 days.

Questioning high lift blades to discharge better. I have personal experience that they can actually cause deck clogging. Sold a set of extra high lift to a customer years ago, and he ran them about 10 minutes before putting his old blades back on because they turned his deck into a mulcher and...

Was driving fine until brake was depressed, and then after release doesn't work. I am thinking the belt came off some place. So may need to take a closer look.

Briggs model numbers should be stamp3d into the metal OHV valve cover. On V twin the one without fuel pump

If you want a warranty on it. It will have to purchased and installed by an authorized dealer. Authorized dealer sales across the counter also voids the warranty

Keep in mind that the Courage single only uses 1 threaded stud. The left stud is threaded into the head. The right stud is actually a square headed bolt that mates into the back side of the plastic carb adapter plate. And the bolt that connects the ground wire for the fuel solenoid is the...

Honda is the only one that I know of that list testing the coils with the meter and gives resistance readings.

5th picture looks like scoring of the piston. What does the cylinder wall look like through the spark plug hole.

The simpliest method for you would be to disconnect the fuel line at the carb, or at the pump and then put a piece of fuel line in its place. Stick the open end into a container and have somebody crank the engine while you observe the fuel being pumped You should have a pulsating stream...

One is a fruit, the other is a name of a town in Connecticut

Lyme would be a starting point. Here is a good starting point Tick-borne illnesses in the U.S. include: Lyme disease. Babesiosis. Ehrlichiosis. Rocky Mountain spotted fever. Anaplasmosis. Southern tick-associated rash illness. Tick-borne relapsing fever. Tularemia. Colorado tick fever...

Check the oil level and make sure it hasn't been contaminated with either water or gas. Next thought would be blown head gasket

In my case it has been ticks. Been pulling off 2-3 per day for the last month

There are more questions than answers and since the OP hasn't been here since May 25 we may never get those answers. With a little research I can't find a model LT 4500 but did find a YT 4500 which was made before 2014 so if that is true this engine is at least 10 years old. And the 26 hp...

This maybe a better parts reference for your mower https://www.partstree.com/models/247-270420-13bqa1zt099-craftsman-lawn-tractor-2017

I agree with @Rivets I am suspecting a fuel restriction between the tank and carb or possibly a bad fuel pump that is just not allowing enough fuel to keep up with higher engine loads, but enough to maintain fuel for idle/no load. basically the carb bowl is running out of fuel with the deck...

Will need the Scag model number and serial number to narrow down the parts diagrams to see what was used.

You would be surprised by the number of people that use the hydro control like a gear shift and use the brake to start/stop after selecting the travel speed.

Sounds like an operator presence switch isn't working. Similar to how a seat switch works on a ride on mower.

Have you checked to make sure the brake is actually disengaged at the transmission and not stuck.

Twin cylinder Briggs engine orders that total less than $2500 are $169 LTL freight. Husqvarna decks and bagger units are $250. Generac genset stator and rotors are $125 freight just as examples.

Why would you have to learn to release the brake/clutch slowly. It isn't a gear drive. Put the direction control in neutral and release the pedal. All further controls should be done with the speed/direction control and the pedal shouldn't need to be touched until you either need to get off...

I have found that for the most part small engines are not picky about their oil used. So anything that normally would be used in an ICE will work fine in a lawnmower engine. Hydraulic lifters tend to require a thinner oil than solid lifter engines temperature pending. Hydrostat transmission...

The only issue with that is the valves are moving, and since the camshaft is driven off the pto end of the crankshaft, the crank from the flywheel to at least the timing gear would have to be intact which would include the rod bearing area of the crankshaft.

Very true. There is the range of some OEM's don't produce service manuals to some that are very good ie JD to some that wouldn't make good fire starter. MTD products especially are bad at not keeping up with service manuals and what that have are 10+ years old. And don't have wiring...

Something else to check is the deck itself What I am referring to is some decks will have a flat plate that protrudes under the front of the deck to help act as a guide to direct the discharged grass, but will lay taller thicker grass down and not allow the blades to pick it back up. And seems...