Recent content by Fish

Sounds like the belt is still moving, are you out of adjustment?

Go download a manual from Kohler, and read the section on the ignitions.

So what were the original coils like? Did they have 1 small terminal, or two?

You need to put up your model-spec numbers off of your tag so we can see what your engine was set up for. To interchange those types of coils involve wiring changes, as well as a flywheel change.

As I said earlier, if you have adjustable valves, then everyone would give different advice. Or at least they should.

What info?

Put up your spec. numbers off of the tag. Some of those models had adjustable valves, and that could easily be your problem.

I think that I have one of those laying around, do they come apart easily?

Also pull the plugs and crank the engine to see if it is rubbing or hitting something.

I vote on a gasket leak, maybe a head gasket leak. Old l-heads could "chirp" with a leaking head gasket, could be the same here. While running spray something non-flammable around and look for a leak.

Spend the money and get a new blower.

Here are the models that use that crank.

Well, not to say anything about the guys at that shop, but they are probably just trying to get out of working on it. It is @ 20 years old or so.

It is still in the price list, but you wouldn't want it. STIHL 41160300400 289.49

What is wrong with the crank?

It is called "hydro-locking", happens when an engine is flooded badly. It cannot compress pure fluid.

I mean, with the plug in, and it pretty much dry. Did it ever yank the cord then. Too much fuel will cause it to happen.

I have an old trimmer that gets flooded from time to time. It is a bear to get it dried out again. If it was indeed totally dried out, and you cannot get it to fire after a light squirt of fuel, then something else must be wrong.

Did it jam while trying to start while drying it out? Or after you put in a squirt of fuel?

Yes, if you are sure that it is totally dried out, put in a squirt, with the tank still empty, and just try to get it to fire. If it does, and runs until the prime is burned off, then you will know that it is all fuel related. If you cannot get it to fire, then you likely have additional...

I would call Deere direct, and talk to a tech there.

Take the plug out and remove all of the fuel, pull the rope many many times, even with the machine upside down, then leave it dry in the sun a while. Then pull some more. Then put the plug back in when you are sure it is dry, but no fuel. Then pull the rope with the throttle held wide...

It still has excess fuel in the crankcase.

It is too large to be posted here. You need to p.m. me your e-mail.

3 post pushbutton switch?

Rapidly clicking makes me think that it is a poor connection.

I second that you should look at all of the connections, especially the ground cable. I also recommend trying to start in a dark garage, and if you see any sparks, that is a problem location.

A flooded engine takes a lot more drying than one would think.

Your engine is badly flooded, and will take some doing to get it aired out enough to start. Dump out all of the fuel, and remove the plug, and pull the rope for several dozen times. Then put the plug back on. and hook it all up and try to get it to start, still not putting any fuel in, with...

I am unfamiliar with this engine, but I might look at the # 58 and #59. Looks like a reed valve setup, and the problem may be around there. But as I said, I don't know much about this puppy.

Are they on the correct side? Backwards?

Does it have points?

Scratch that. Pour a dribble into the plug hole?

What happens when you put a dribble of fuel in the intake?

Which gasket?

The carburetor is likely the culprit. You will need to remove the covers to get to it.

Just permatex gasket stuff.

I usually put a light smear of sealant on both sides of the gasket. I must be very light, so as to not block any of the passages.

But do their toilets flush backward?

This is the tool commonly used to remove the clutch, but in your case, it looks took thick to get in there.

Here is the bottom of the clutch, as said, it acts as the flywheel nut as well. The problem looks to be, getting a hold of it to remove it.

Yeah, that one looks a lot thinner than mine. Likely what holds in into place is the clutch. I wonder if a new pulley is easily found.

Can you put up a pic of your engine and the pulley?

In the 60s today here in Ky!! I cannot wait!!!

Put up some pics and videos, especially of it starting and running.

Cannot say that I ever tapped on a valve before.....

As I said, he should look at the spark, if he is having weak running issues. Likely dirty points, unless someone has upgraded them.

One will find that the block surface warps a tad with time and heat, and the seats will be cocked relative to the valve faces. That is where the compression is lost, and a proper valve job is in order, and not just lapping the valves. I use the Neway valve seat and valve face cutters.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/1gqkp6sljv-0071-917/id-194741

But don't spray too much lube there, as that is where the belts need to grip.

Those models use a variable speed double pulley and two belts. The inner sheave goes up and down to give different ratios for different gearing like a 10 speed bike. Sitting a while, that inner sheave likes to get stuck, a little squirt of wd-40 on the center usually helps, and when/if it...

I save my money for booze and strippers personally.

Dang!!! A tad rough, aren't we? Here is the part you need, called a drag link or steering arm. You need the mower's model number off of the tag under/behind the seat to look up the correct one.

Leaking starts to be a problem when you hit 50 years old or so. It "Depends"...........

Visible spark on an old Briggs can fool you. Take off the starter cover and look at the coil, see if there is a wire going under the flywheel, that would be to points. While the cover is off, and the spark plug unplugged but screwed in, rotate the flywheel backward, and see how much...