Recent content by bertsmobile1

I will put my Metallurgists hat & dustcoat back on and make a very bold statement that will give 95% of the people here the shits big time . The only tension wrench worth buying are the deflecting beam type as shown in the catalogue page below deflecting beam tension wrenches All of those...

Pull the carb off flip it upside down. The weight of the float should hold back 14 psi ( atmospheric pressure , sort of ) , but usually 10 PSI is good enough If it does not then there is some thing wrong with your carb If it does then there is something wrong with your mower remove the fuel cap...

You spoil people

ep. My fix is a grade 8 bolt , High tensile washers and a sleeve that is an interfearance fit so the sleeve turns on the bolt and not on the wheel

The engine carb & muffler come as a unit and get dropped in as a unit Not really hard to get them out if you can get i up high enough to get under comfortably Do a leak down test, I would bet on you having a blown head gasket When you put it back get some air ducting and move that air filer...

Yes the crankcase is over pressurizing and there are only 2 causes that do not cause a smoke screen when you mow 1) blown head gasket 2) crankcase vent stuck shut .

For women I tell them to pretend the lap bars are a shopping trolley and move them the same way and amount that you would in a supermarket . For men I tell them to only try & steer with one hand , whichever is their dominant side . So for a right handed person they steer with the right and...

So you start by going to the Cub Cadet web site & downloading the wiring diagram which I believe will either be as a stand alone file or in the parts book, The "cub Cadets and More " web site has the better information. Next you check the battery terminals for 12 V Then you check the hot wire...

time to clean the carb and check the float bowl valve actually cuts of the fuel supply

The fans are not expensive just check that you order the right one as they come in push or pull blade angles Without the fan the oil will overheat get too thin and loose traction. An essential job with every service is to thoroughly clean the transmission I use a very long air duster bought...

Crap in the fuel tank blocking the outlet .

Inside the fuel pump is just a diaphragm and 2 check valves As the crankcase pressure is applied to the diaphragm is moves in & out The brass disc is a filter because air has to be expelled to enable the diaphragm to go out . If oil is coming from there then the usual culprit is a blown head...

Hydros are the only place that I use full synthetic The trans is good for about 1000 hours , a bit more if the owner was careful, never ran at 1/2 engine speed and did not tow. There is a tech who advertises on ebay , I have used him several times HE machines the kidney plate and the cylinder...

Hydros are designed to fail Oil changes can prolong their life if you do not introduce dust into the box when you change the oil Down side is purging has bare metal running on bare metal so you sort of end up in square one When they get very grumbly and old you can go p a viscosity grade or two...

Well sounds to me like the dealer has no idea about what they are doing or are telling you porkies IF it stops dead it has to be in the ignition system or the electrical system Some thing simple like a burned out diode or dead short in the coil or if it has a control module ( not familiar...