Recent content by Auto Doc's

Hi revtim, Bunton is a name I have not heard in a while; they were a very popular commercial brand back in the 80's when I was in Virginia. I'm probably being too harsh on municipalities by comparing them to my area of South Texas.

If it is exceeding 3600 RPM, the governor has been played with in the past or it is failing and sticking. It needs the governor shaft checked for binding or wearing into the engine case and or a correct governor adjustment. It been years since I have seen a governor shaft binding or badly worn...

Here is a video by Teryl Fixes All, go to the 5:40 time to skip the BS humor skit, he loves to do them: https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=+Kawasaki+FX751-AS07+engine&mid=EB9C10348EDEB7F9A515EB9C10348EDEB7F9A515&FORM=VIRE

Hi revtim, You might check on Ebay and see about getting a manual, CD or download copy, so you have more information to work with. Having the actual repair and service data is far better than some of the wild guess fixes that show up here at times. I buy most of my small engine and equipment...

There are roller bearing inside between the hex portion and the outer portion.

Apparently, the white section is stuck to the bowl from fuel resins/ varnish. A little bit of carb spray should free it. Also, take the tip of a small sharp knife and wedge the tip carefully between the plastic and the aluminum bowl. Be gentle, so you don't cut yourself. Once you get that done...

The one I use is Blaster UV dye part number BLA500. Most auto parts stores carry it or can get it. New car dealerships carry engine oil dye also, but it is marked up from the local parts stores. A/C dye can work, but it is not concentrated like engine oil dye.

Hi boydog40. Check the hinge fold area under the seat mount platform. Some switches were placed there instead of the actual seat itself. If there is a hole in the area with an odd shape, the plastic switch may have finally broken into piece and is now just a couple of wires hiding under the...

Hello Husqvarna rider, A/C typically breaks down quickly with engine oil heat, but you can try it. You can usually get oil specific dye at most automotive parts stores. You will need a UV light and glasses to see details. I usually check oil leaks with minimal lighting or at night for best...

Hello revtim, Sounds like one cylinder not producing power. A quick check is with a spray bottle to see if water burns off of each exhaust outlet rapidly. If one does not, you found the none working cylinder. Simple is the best approach: Start by replacing the plugs. Next would be a possible...

Teryl Fixes all has a bunch of engine swap videos. His comedic approach is not quite understood by some folks, but he is playing into the common belief that mechanic are just stupid hillbilly types. In reality the guy really knows his small engine work.

Sounds more like you need a compact tractor and a finish mower that is designed to run on 4 wheels that have greaseable bearings. Anti scalping wheel are only designed for occasional contact with the ground to prevent the deck housing from scalping and pushing dirt. With these extensions, you...

Hi Diwali, Is the pin stuck where the float hinges to open and close the needle. Some of the pins only fit one direction and wedge in place. You may need to use a small pin punch but be careful because the aluminum where the pin goes is fragile and will break if too much force is used. If you...

Glad to hear it is up and running now. Better save your pennies because the Cub Cadet will be next in line.

Hi Slomo, I still have a Briggs and Stratton original round wooden air gap spark test from when I started out in the late 70's. That thing has seen a lot of spark testing.

What are the rest of the numbers for your engine? Check out Parts Tree for your exact engine series I think you are mistaking the air you feel that is coming away from under the top cover. The upper shroud cover directs air over the entire motor to cool, especially the cylinders. It's good to...

The numbers on the cover should be stamped just above the flat cylinder head if it is the original engine. If the engine has been upgraded to a newer style with a tin valve cover on it, the numbers will be stamped into the valve cover. Does your engine have the long body carburetor, or a short...

The starter head or top cover on the engine has a series of numbers stamped in it (model, type, serial) and these will be the numbers needed to search for the engine related parts. The other numbers you provided are for looking up the chassis parts. Hopefully the top cover has not been changed...

Welcome to your first experience with pressure pump hydro locking. When you shut it down, turn the water off and hit the nozzle handle to take the pump pressure off and drain the water out When you begin again, start the engine and run it for 30 seconds, then turn the water on and pressure...

Thank the product engineers and folks at the EPA who are trying to prevent waste oil from just being poured out on the ground or dumped into a water drainage system. Some people just want it gone and don't care who they hurt in the long term. The harder they make it for DIY folks, the more they...

Disconnect and reconnect batteries just in case there is some microscopic corrosion due to temperature changes over the winter. this is a common issue with anything electrical. Keep it simple.

Hi newbee, Try to list the product tag identification numbers when you make a help request, because similar machines may be equipped or wired differently. Many machines have production number splits from early to late editions. First item to go back and check is to make sure the cable...

Look at items in group 47, there is a 3rd long narrow/thin spring at the throttle rod. That one is easy to miss. It is usually used to control a surging idle problem by keeping the throttle plate steady. Instead of selling just the spring, the now sell a "parts kit". A video that may help was...

Hello rhkraft, You missed the part about it being the Generac 15KW "portable". They do not have a constant trickle charger like the stationary standby generators.

It would help to have the number off the machine tag. Don't assume e know exactly what you have. Machine and engine numbers are important Most likely, it needs a simple control handle adjustment, or the hydro motor is failing.

The shim washer was left out by an idiot (just a guess). It is what sets the correct side clearance for the assembly to work. It prevents it from walking back and forth and slipping under load.

A needle is needed on the float inside the carburetor. That or the float is heavy with fuel inside of it. After that the oil will need to be drained and left to sit for a few hours to evaporate all the fuel possible inside of the crankcase. While you are at it, I recommend a manual fuel cutoff...

Gee... Look at the parts diagrams and figure out what is missing from yours. There are three springs in the various assemblies shown. I suspect one is missing, disconnected or broken. Pull the top cover and inspect the assemblies. I don't have your mower in front of me. to diagnose it. Sorry no...

Gee... Look at the parts diagrams and figure out what is missing from yours. There are three springs in the various assemblies shown. I suspect one is missing, disconnected or broken. Pull the top cover and inspect the assemblies. I don't have your mower in front of me. to diagnose it. Sorry no...

Maybe this will help you: https://www.partstree.com/models/20381-toro-super-recycler-walk-behind-mower-sn-312000001-312999999-2012/dip-stick-brake-governor-kits-3/

Very well, I hope it work out well for you.

This is public forum folks, try to use some sense of civility and respect.

Try a 4X8 sheet of plywood in a SWB Ford truck, then place a heavy toolbox on top of it thinking it will hold the plywood stable. Pull out on the road to accelerate and the fun begins when everything slides right out of the truck bed and onto the road.... Fortunately, no one was coming up...

Hi Startech, Probably, I should have added do not connect while the jumper vehicle (compact tractor or vehicle) is running. I have dealt with way too many blown circuit fuses caused by customers jump starting off of a running vehicle or farm tractor.

Don't ever rig a blade adapter onto an engine shaft. That will get someone seriously hurt or killed. A flying mower blade is no joke, I've seen it happen once and that was enough. Torsional forces combined with RPM are nothing to experiment with. My advice is to find another mower chassis with...

Likely the spring for the governor arm is broken or came off under the top cover. We need the number off the engine and/or the mower deck, the deck/chassis number is under the rear chute door if it is like the one I have.

To answer the question about the larger battery... yes it will blow fuses and fusible links because the Amperage is too much for the circuits on the rider. Voltage is just the basic power potential; the real power comes from the Amperage a battery has stored. The compact tractor was likely a 600...

We needed to see a full top view of the deck, your photo just showed mostly the broken spring. You sound like you are blaming us because you did not get instant gratification from the minimum info provided. My Crystal Ball broke years ago and my Magic 8-ball sprung a leak. LOL Glad you got it...

Sounds like this was a "someday project" that was thrown out in the back shed for a long time, finally it was thrown on the road front for refuge. Likely someone hit something in the yard, and it has a sheered flywheel key. If the key is sheered, it will still have spark, but not at the correct...

Everything is pointing at the choke plate not fully closing. Check your adjustments and be certain the plate is fully closing.

Have you run it under load/cutting and it still runs good?

Have you run it under load/cutting and it still runs good?

Have you run it under load/cutting and it still runs good?

Wash it carefully and then blow as much dry as possible with a leaf blower or a shop air hose and nozzle if you have one. Avoid getting the air cleaner inlet wet,

Can you show a full top view of picture your deck? That would be helpful. This is an idler lever tension spring that broke the end off. The lever that swivels on the deck has a pulley. One of the holes in that lever should have signs of a wear notch, or there is a pin standing up on the lever...

https://www.amazon.com/Silca-Thread-on-Schrader-Chuck/dp/B00YTE788U/ref=sr_1_9?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Q5g0vYVS7cYgMYHTt9YiFso4L47XJ2ohLmzZqjjxcA6KvbAXzVLNPhfG1Mgo9HGmHkVb-ftXskhNAMH7RqVMHpuO_U1Rt42gumYFgH8j4mxhiwOGazIQRoIRS2_4w8_pS1U8bntD4V3P9RUM3kb3uk_7zE9Svb1vuYHizVSjr0uJ4oL8LSgXJwzMVUr3EK3ruYk2L759A...

Bert, he is talking about a tire valve Shrader adapter, not a quick connect shop air hose coupling

Bert, he is talking about a tire valve Shrader adapter, not a quick connect shop air hose coupling

I think the machine shop would be the best folks to ask. The current threads at the tip may be blunted and currently not allowing a bolt to start into the threads

Change the oil and put a correct champion spark plug in it. This is an older flat head engine and they are bullet proof if maintained correctly. Adapting it to a later rider mower may be tricky because these did not have a charging system that would operate an electric PTO clutch. A lever...

Here is an Ebay source...

Hello Propflux01, The adjustable air gap spark testers have always been reliable and consistent. The bulb type "lighting up" ones have always been questionable to me and easy to break (the bulb element). The example shown of the adjustable one has a segment with "SE", that is for small engine...

Hello Repsol1k, These shafts were designed specifically for generator application. What is "an older Argo". I'm not familiar with that brand. Did the old engine have a tapered shaft and the same diameter? Just on a guess the thread will likely be a regular 3/8X24 thread.

The starter head portion needs to be replaced. The pawls are hanging and not fully retracting.

Hi Diwali, Sometimes it's a matter of trying the simple approach first. Yes, most likely the carburetor will need some disassembly to access the fine passages that are clogged. Do not remove the plate with screws because it will have to be recentered if messed with. Here is a parts link...

I have to wonder how many of these old-style valve seals they have sold in recent years. It is apparent to me that someone got lazy, a few years ago, and combined the SKU numbers without actually verifying valve seal design differences. I've seen this "mix up" happen once before with this same...

Haunt me, yes. When I was a crew chief years ago, we had flightline FOD walks 3 times a day (once per shift over a 24-hour period every week.) NGK is one of the most duplicated (copycatted) brands by the black market. Lots of info online about that. BPR4ES is what I believe is a "cold" plug as...

Sounds like self-propel cable adjustment issue. The cable is possibly a little too tight. Another possibility is the drive belt has been replaced, and it does have enough slack when not in drive mode.

FOD? Wow! That is a military term I have not heard for a while. Like I mentioned earlier, I would use Champion plugs. They should be RN12YC but double check the application number.

The one with the whitest porcelain could mean a condition that is a little lean on the fuel mixture. The darker one is an indication of incomplete fuel burn and glazing, that usually ends up being an issue with the spark plug heat range or the resistor in the plug is starting to give out. Are...

You need to wash it down good (while cooled down) with a good soap like Dawn and get as much oil of as you can. A stiff paint brush and a rag to scrub it well will help a lot. Rinse and then let it dry. From there, run the engine at idle and watch for oil drips. It will be much easier to see...

I would replace the plugs with new ones (I prefer genuine Champion plugs from a parts store, not Amazon). If it's been running good keep going. A V-twin Kawasaki is a good engine.

The likely possibility is the oil cooler O-ring if it has an oil cooler where the oil filter mounts. Second possibility is the bottom case/sump gasket if it has oil all around the platform where the engine mounts. Third would be the crankshaft seal if it has oil all around the bottom side of...

The likely possibility is the oil cooler O-ring if it has an oil cooler where the oil filter mounts. Second possibility is the bottom case/sump gasket if it has oil all around the platform where the engine mounts. Third would be the crankshaft seal if it has oil all around the bottom side of...

Don't you realize that we are in the age of "re-identification". I'm sure it's a play to drive prices up so their investors can sit on the beach tapping away on their keyboard watching the stocks go up. Here is their initial announcement from 2023...

The carburetor bowl should not be too difficult to get off to see if it has any rust or water droplets in it. A carburetor will not suck in water droplets, but it will interfere with proper fuel flow into the main jet. A fuel can that sits open will collect moisture from the air.

If is it a steel pulley, there should be minimal wear. If it is a nylon pulley, there will be a significant wear groove on the center of the chamfered area of the pulley, where the belt rides. I question how the operation cable fitting in the bracket is. Also, the pull back spring. (Without the...

Check for proper tension spring and mechanism operation. Grass clipping can build up in them and hamper proper operation. V-belts grip on the sides of the V, so the wear you described on the old belt sounds normal.

Don't cut early in the day when the grass still has dew on it. If the grass is thick, find a way to raise the outlet chute slightly so clippings can exit properly. Cutting twice is double the work, slow your speed down and cut once. I have a similar Cub Cadet. Make sure you locate and grease...

How many hours? Is it running so you can operate it? If it has been siting unused for years neglected, it is likely not worth investing in. It does not mean a thing if someone tells you: "It ran when it was parked". Used mower sale values are a matter of how much a person is willing to spend...

Yep, the battery is toast. When you put the new battery in check the charging system with a meter. At idle it will show a very low charge from the machine, but as you raise the throttle so should the charge voltage. If it is not charging, let us know because there is still a wiring connection or...

No higher than 10A for 1hour. Place it on 2A if you have time to let it set and slow charge. 50A is for a quick start, but you risk blowing the main fuse. If you need a battery, don't put it off because the mower will damage the charging circuit. For battery longevity, get a solar panel battery...

Ideally it is best to go with OE when possible. Many large lumber/hardware suppliers carry genuine filters if they also sell the mowers. Amazon is a world product dumping ground mixed with good and bad, and you take your chances. I draw the line by getting genuine filters off of Ebay. The key...

Remove the air cleaner and check to make sure all of the linkage moves freely. Age, grass chaff and a little rust will stiffen carburetor and carburetor linkage from moving freely.

Thanks for the link, I'll check it out. Way too many people these days don't understand (or ignore) the age-old rule of "love thy neighbor as thy love thyself' or anything about reciprocating courtesy. They all seem to want something for nothing and not work for anything. I grew up out in the...

Thanks for the link, I'll check it out. Way too many people these days don't understand (or ignore) the age-old rule of "love thy neighbor as thy love thyself' or anything about reciprocating courtesy. They all seem to want something for nothing and not work for anything. I grew up out in the...

Hello sheetmetalbab, Glad to hear you got it done. A mower jack when working on a rider or zero turn is a life changer for the better. Try to keep it covered when you are not using it. I have to weld the upper handle back on mine because of rust and leaving it in the weather year-round. (I...

The interlock is not powered in any way. It is simply and interrupt device

Without knowing the internals of the interlock module, that is a wild guess on anyone's part. I cannot advise bypassing any safety device.

The key word I think is interlock. The word "module" is just a technical descriptor for circuit meeting place. It is where all of the safety switches meet. It is a ground side only system, no "positive" power needed. Technically if any of the switches are not in the correct position, the coil...

Hi Georgia Dave, I have only seen inline diodes for each coil used on the primary kill wire of most V-twin engines. It prevents primary "kill wire" discharge into each of the opposing coils. I'm not sure about the idea of feeding coil "flyback" voltage back into an interlock device. As you say...

Without a service manual we can do nothing more than guess. My guess is that there is a drive belt adjustment procedure that needs to take place. EDIT: 5/6/25 8:59CST Double check each belt for correct basic routing. The tapered inside of most belts go into a "V" of a pulley, while the flat...

I get them from Jack's small engine or a reputable supplier on Ebay. I do not recommend Amazon for anything other than cheap clothing.

I am not aware of any ignition coil producing DC power. The way I read the diagram that is an interlock ignition coil shutdown wire. Does this engine have only a charging stator under the flywheel to operate lights, or no running power supply system at all?

That is in reply to ILENGINE. Otherwise read the dipstick or owner's manual.

I think you are exagerating the ounces.

You have a 2-blade deck with the wrong length blades ot they are upside down somehow.

To check level screw the cap on. It is a minimal difference at best anyway. Simple logic to me is: Does the engine run with the cap loose or the cap tight? Why would you check the oil with the cap loose?

Prove all the safety switches work before you condemn the interlock. It is a simple device that gives the correct go ahead from the switches for safe operations. Likely bugs and connector corrosion has taken place. A simple meter should find your problem.

Hi SC, I think you are referring to what is known as a suction gun. I've tried that just for kicks before and it only kind of "half worked". Aside from that it was very messy.

These were implemented because a lot of serious accidents were happening by careless people not paying attention. The manufacturer wanted to reduce lawsuit exposure. When I worked for John Deere, we were legally not allowed to bypass or trick any safety switches regardless of brand or what the...

Modern push mowers are built to be disposable these days. Some engines even come with a label on them that states, no oil change required. Being a traditional kind of person, I change oil at least once every season regardless. I'm in South Texas, so we have more draught than rain for the grass...

Quit posting repeat help requests, that just annoys people who are trying to help you.

What have you checked or tested? Do you mean this is an 18 S42 rider?

These were implemented because a lot of serious accidents were happening by careless people not paying attention. The manufacturer wanted to reduce lawsuit exposure. When I worked for John Deere, we were legally not allowed to bypass or trick any safety switches regardless of brand or what the...

Sounds like some sediment got in the float bowl and prevented the needle from seating and shutting off the fuel. A good carb disassembly and cleaning is likely needed. I install a manual fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line of all my equipment, then run them dry when shutting down.

Just correcting the valve lash adjustment corrects most of them. I usually set them both at .005 inch (snug). If that does not correct the issue, then it will need to be opened up and the cam replaced. Aftermarket cams are junk right out of the box. Genuine B&S cams are often on back order...

Sounds like it needs the valves adjusted.

Hi biggertv, Tire rubber and ATF are both petroleum-based products. The ATF will fill in the dry cracking and swell the cracks shut. It's an old tire shop trick from many years past. It will work until the tire totally gives out and rots apart. It won't do anything for a bad valve stem though.

The idler and tensioner pullies usually fail along with the belt.

Sounds like a job for a couple of cinder blocks under the front wheels with the deck removed. Take pictures as you go. The belt can be bad, but I recommend you replace any pullies that have bearings. Check out...

A new engine cost as much as a completely new mower these days. I suggest Ebay for a used one but ask how many hours are on it and if there is any warranty. There is lots of junk out there on Ebay. The 13HP Kohler was used mostly on JD riders as I recall. Another source might be a small...

https://support.cubcadet.com/s/article/29-1

The machine label with the model and serial number would be helpful. It is better to have that info so we can look for some wiring diagrams to better help you.

The machine label with the model and serial number would be helpful. It is better to have that info so we can look for some wiring diagrams to better help you.

Contact someone who knows and can verify. Jack's Small engine is a great source.

Sorry, my web search led in the wrong direction.

Look up Dixie Chopper.com for your machine service manual and fluid recommendations. There is no universal answer. You will need the model and serial number off your machine.

This might help: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/poulan/poulan-pro/ppb3416-gas-saw-type-2/starter-type-1-2

Not all oil comes out but draining is certainly a step in the right direction. To eliminate doubts, remove the spark plug and crank it over a few times to purge any liquid that could possibly be trapped in the combustion chamber. Then put the plug back in after servicing and start it up. It...

The main point is that they have to withstand fuel. A raw brass needle like used on air tanks may leak around the stem where the seal is. Fuel will swell and degrade soft rubber product, so Viton synthetic rubber is used.

Picture #1 of the piston shows the damage. Part of the oil ring area is missing. It could be from weak/ defective casting or a problem with fuel in the oil at some point creating a condition known as "low speed detonation". It is normal for the rings to expand slightly when the piston is...

Hello Dan400man, Depends on the mower design you have. The idea is to not get the oil into the breather and prevent getting oil into the engine cylinder.

You are talking about moving a 16' trailer with your Bad Boy? Normally, at most they can handle a small garden utility trailer without too much strain. Pulling a "full-grown" 16' trailer is a big risk. Evaluate the physics of the situation. "An object at rest remains at rest until acted upon...

Be glad they are not the old split rim ring design that were outlawed on passenger vehicles in the 70's. A lot of people got injured or killed messing with those things.

Hi rickpaulos, Its call a "Treysit" in German. Great to have if you work on a lot of small engine equipment. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/19200?msclkid=b223de02dc6814033dd4b6117239989f

What kind of rider and what engine. Just on a guess, you have a fuel related problem happening.

I suspect you would burn up the clutch pull in magnet attempting this. These are designed for immediate on and off operation. Sounds more like you have tight bearings on the spindles or pulleys and the belt does not have the proper tension. A wrong width or length belt is also likely. Soft...

Maybe you can attach a couple of machine pictures and attach them? I'm not sure what you are calling an "M" series mower.

Maybe you can attach a couple of machine pictures and attach them? I'm not sure what you are calling an "M" series mower.

Why mount a tach to the mower? There is usually only low idle at around 800 RPM and high idle at 3600 RPM for operation under load. They are not like a car/truck. I only use a manual tach for seasonal tune up and diagnostic check and that is an old-fashioned B&S vibrating wire design. I've had...

"Old man trick" to seat a small tire on the rim is a very quick burst of starting fluid into the tire inside, wait a couple of seconds then carefully light it with a small propane torch. A quick flame and pop, it's seated. It takes practice the first couple of times I also have a cheap manual...