mower just died running

rinse

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I have a ferris IS3100 with 26 LC kawasaki. My son was driving the mower and it just died in the field. I towed it back to my barn and started messing with it. This is what I have done:
Continuity tested switches and all seem good
Checked the PTO and it clicks when pulled
Checked red wire at start from battery 12.5+ volts
Checked relays, one was bad so I replaced both
Checked the fuses, all good there
Checked the volts at the ignition switch and they seem good
Replaced the ignition switch
Replaced the time delay module - ferris mechanic told me this was the issue, it wasn't... lol
New battery
Green on relay terminal 86 would allow mower to crank if I ground it out
If I run a wire from S on the ignition to the location of the yellow wire it will turn over but will not run.

What am I missing?

Pulled the coil kill wires and I can get spark when I ground the green wire in the replay. Magneto is had continuity to ground on off, not grounded on run, but grounded on start (wont send spark to plugs when grounded).

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Do you have battery voltage at pin 85 with the violet wire. And does the black wire on pin 86 have a good ground.
 
Do you have battery voltage at pin 85 with the violet wire. And does the black wire on pin 86 have a good ground.
I feel like I have, but I'll check in the AM. Been fiddling with this for awhile today and I'm spent. I did notice that my violet and double black wires were on opposite posts compared to the diagram.
 
easy. You are missing one of these three

Fuel to air mixture
spark
compression

Find which and it will lead you to where to look next
 
easy. You are missing one of these three

Fuel to air mixture
spark
compression

Find which and it will lead you to where to look next
Thanks. Missing spark, magento is grounding on start. Just trying to see if anyone has a hey check this idea that I overlooked.
 
Violet has voltage, black has continuity to ground.
Is that relay clicking when you turn the key on and off. If that relay doesn't actuate, it will not unground the ignition module. also the other relay won't activate which will prevent the start circuit from energizing the starter solenoid.
 
Missing spark, magento is grounding on start. Just trying to see if anyone has a hey check this idea that I overlooked.
If the ignition coil is VERIFIED grounding out on start, remove the coil kill wire. Should be a small wire that when the key is turned off or a safety is engaged, grounds the coil out and kills the engine.

Need to go back to the basics here.

If you pull the kill wire, should drain the fuel tank IF the coil is good. IF the coil is good, should have spark. Remember if you pull the kill wire you will have to ground the plug wire out or remove it from the plug to kill the engine.
 
If the ignition coil is VERIFIED grounding out on start, remove the coil kill wire. Should be a small wire that when the key is turned off or a safety is engaged, grounds the coil out and kills the engine.

Need to go back to the basics here.

If you pull the kill wire, should drain the fuel tank IF the coil is good. IF the coil is good, should have spark. Remember if you pull the kill wire you will have to ground the plug wire out or remove it from the plug to kill the engine.
So I think I have a connection that is poor or corroded. Started to focus on the white wires since I have resistance on my ohm meter when the key is at the start position on the M post of the ignition. Talked to a guy at the ferris dealer near me and he pointed to the control arm switches not having good connection and creating a slight resistance that will kill the coils. Currently in the process of pulling all the connectors out and hitting them with a wire brush. Sounds terrible but its really pretty easy. After that only thing I can think of is a bare wire grounding to the frame.
 
If you lost something, you would backtrack to where you last knew you had that thing. The same is true of the coil ground. Backtrack between the coil and where the system is working right. You don't have to understand the whole system, although it helps. You only need to discover where the coil kill ground is not being lifted when you want the engine to run. If you come to a fork in the road where two or three wires all go to kill circuits, seperate them and figure out which one is not working right.
 
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