drive pulley

[StarTech]

When this cat decides to post valid equipment numbers then we know what he got for a mower. I manage to figure that he has a 44S877 instead of a 443877.

IF he just post a picture of the mower's serial tag it would help some. Meanwhile ICE has deported my crystal ball for telling the truth on them.

 

[SHMdrid]

I am interested. Let me know how we can come to terms.

 

[Auto Doc's]

I am interested. Let me know how we can come to terms.

This is a single belt drive pulley with a 1.25" tube extension on top and bottom (As measured from the pulley edge across to center tube) One tube section has a 1/4" keyed area formed into it. It is intended to be used with an electric PTO clutch below it. This one came off of a Craftsman DGS6500 garden tractor. Number shows to be 194343 but was substituted out later.

 

[(MMM) Montana Mower Man]

Newbie here, born a few minutes ago. Related belt drive questions for modifying an engine pulley (drive) and transaxle pulley (driven):
Mower: Craftsman Model. No. 917.288526
S/N: 050913D001077

SCOPE:
1. Drive belt slippage: Seeking to solve this recurring issue by changing the smaller, top drive engine pulley to a geared or ribbed pulley, using a geared or ribbed belt to add considerable torque to the rear wheels.

I see no change required , to the larger mower deck pulley or to the idler pulleys in this concept or proto phase. Continually replacing the standard-smooth-v-belt using friction drive seems pointless as under a normal load pulling a thatcher or spreader will cause slippage, unless I drop to about 100 lbs. and not want to tow any standard garden-style attachments on any type of slightly uphill or wet surface (tires are another subject). If this is a wacko idea, I'd like to hear other positive working solutions.

2. No such geared or ribbed drive or driven pulleys exist for lawn tractors TMK, so I'm looking at right-sized timing gear-style pulleys, or even used auto junkyard pulleys to start the proof of concept.

3. The pacing item is an appropriated ribbed or geared belt, first, IMO. I have found sources, but I'd like to see a source for dimensioned drawings for these two pulleys.

4. Exploded schematics (which I've found) reference the appropriate parts, but not dimensions. Sure, I can pull out these two pulleys and reverse engineer them, but I'm starting with hopefully finding dimensioned files first, if they exist. I can then work to produce 3D concept printed parts, or simply go to CNC with CAD files for POC. There are a number of path choices here....

Your positive return thoughts or comments are welcome. This is my winter project for spring lawn improvements. If you need other pics, please ask. Thanks to any and all with more experience in these mowers than I have. :>))

 

[Auto Doc's]

The smooth V-style pullies are designed to allow slippage for smoother engagement when the foot pedal is released.

I suggest that your tensioner spring has become with age or an additional assist spring could be added.

 

[ILENGINE]

Being a 2013 model the things that come to mind is the groove in the engine pulley is getting worn/glazed preventing the belt from properly grabbing the sides of the belt instead of the bottoming out in the groove. And being a hydrostat transaxle in a lawn tractor, I would consider that to be the weak link for torque.

 

[StarTech]

Worn V-idlers will cause slippage as the belt bottom out and then mower think got a longer than spec belt. Spec belt is 1/2 x 90 but when both v-idlers it appears to mower as a over 91" at 7/16" wide belt.

Check these pulleys for heavy wear.

 

[Forest#2]

Newbie here, born a few minutes ago. Related belt drive questions for modifying an engine pulley (drive) and transaxle pulley (driven):
Mower: Craftsman Model. No. 917.288526
S/N: 050913D001077

SCOPE:
1. Drive belt slippage: Seeking to solve this recurring issue by changing the smaller, top drive engine pulley to a geared or ribbed pulley, using a geared or ribbed belt to add considerable torque to the rear wheels.

I see no change required , to the larger mower deck pulley or to the idler pulleys in this concept or proto phase. Continually replacing the standard-smooth-v-belt using friction drive seems pointless as under a normal load pulling a thatcher or spreader will cause slippage, unless I drop to about 100 lbs. and not want to tow any standard garden-style attachments on any type of slightly uphill or wet surface (tires are another subject). If this is a wacko idea, I'd like to hear other positive working solutions.

2. No such geared or ribbed drive or driven pulleys exist for lawn tractors TMK, so I'm looking at right-sized timing gear-style pulleys, or even used auto junkyard pulleys to start the proof of concept.

3. The pacing item is an appropriated ribbed or geared belt, first, IMO. I have found sources, but I'd like to see a source for dimensioned drawings for these two pulleys.

4. Exploded schematics (which I've found) reference the appropriate parts, but not dimensions. Sure, I can pull out these two pulleys and reverse engineer them, but I'm starting with hopefully finding dimensioned files first, if they exist. I can then work to produce 3D concept printed parts, or simply go to CNC with CAD files for POC. There are a number of path choices here....

Your positive return thoughts or comments are welcome. This is my winter project for spring lawn improvements. If you need other pics, please ask. Thanks to any and all with more experience in these mowers than I have. :>))

Montana Mower Man:

Welcome aboard.
You would get more and better responses if you started YOUR OWN new post or new thread. You jumped into the middle of a post by another member and new threads will get faster responses from more members because some members have bailed out from this original thread.

AND
From your pics posted you do not need to do any MOD's. You just need to fix the existing to OEM specs. Your belt/belts are down into the bottom of the drive pulleys is why you are getting slippage. Might be worn pulleys and worn belts. You can find pulley gauges to check the pulley V tapers for wear if new belts do not correct the issue..

 

[(MMM) Montana Mower Man]

Montana Mower Man:

Welcome aboard.
You would get more and better responses if you started YOUR OWN new post or new thread. You jumped into the middle of a post by another member and new threads will get faster responses from more members because some members have bailed out from this original thread.

AND
From your pics posted you do not need to do any MOD's. You just need to fix the existing to OEM specs. Your belt/belts are down into the bottom of the drive pulleys is why you are getting slippage. Might be worn pulleys and worn belts. You can find pulley gauges to check the pulley V tapers for wear if new belts do not correct the issue..

Thank you. As my experience in solving mower issues is also new, I confess my involvement in forums is as well. I rushed a bit today, but it was not apparent to me as to exactly how to start my own new post or new thread in order to even get started. Seeking an existing thread on the topic of drive pulleys made sense, and my apologies for jumping into the post.

 

[(MMM) Montana Mower Man]

Being a 2013 model the things that come to mind is the groove in the engine pulley is getting worn/glazed preventing the belt from properly grabbing the sides of the belt instead of the bottoming out in the groove. And being a hydrostat transaxle in a lawn tractor, I would consider that to be the weak link for torque.

Seems sensible, thank you.