Adjust play in brake linkage rod

[JimP2014]

Here is a short video of this rake linkage rod that I think has too much play in it so basically the brake is off + I believe that rod should not slide the way it does even when the spring is attached it slides the same amount as if there's a way to stop that motion the spring itself seems to be a little bit too long I wonder what anybody knows about how to get rid of that play in that rod? Craftsman lt2000 2019.5 horsepower engine 42-in cutting width.

Thankks,
Jim

 

[JimP2014]

So there's this very long spring and it connects to this plate that controls the brake pads. The plate where this long spring hooks into has One large hole and that's where the spring should go but behind that there's a smaller hole and I wonder what that's for if anyone knows seems like if I use that smaller hole somehow then the current setup will be more tight. So that long spring which really is not the problem there's nothing wrong with it it's just resting on top of that metal plate the other thing is where that long linkage rod goes towards the front of the mower you can't get in there you probably have to take out the engine but maybe there's nothing to service on the front end of that long metal linkage rod so it doesn't matter.

Jim

 

[JimP2014]

So I took off that spring it's known as an elongated spring which I never really knew but one side of the spring is elongated and the other side is just like the closed loop. The spring is 5.5in Long and it has an outside diameter I believe 3/8 of an inch but in any case, it's fairly easy to find a spring that's 5 and 1/2 in Long it's more difficult to find one which is 5 and 1/4 in long which is what I figure I need so I decided that they two makes springs 5 and 1/4 in long except both ends are elongated I don't think that's a big deal the only thing you have to worry about is making sure the elongated side does not slip off of the linkage rod which would not be hard to figure out. That linkage rod itself should actually have an adjustment setup built into it so it's a metal rod going into some sort of adjustment setup and then from there it goes out to metal rod again so in the middle some place you can adjust it to loosen it or tighten it that's the way that linkage rod should be built.

Jim

 

[Forest#2]

????
I would probably search for a download a owners manual and parts list and review if the brake does not operate. Owners manuals usually have pictures and adjustment procedures. (and brakes are usually wimpy operating on LT Models)Brakes just kinda slow down the LT machine when on flat ground if they are of the small puck type..
If the brake works Ok I would live with it.

 

[JimP2014]

????
I would probably search for a download a owners manual and parts list and review if the brake does not operate. Owners manuals usually have pictures and adjustment procedures. (and brakes are usually wimpy operating on LT Models)Brakes just kinda slow down the LT machine when on flat ground if they are of the small puck type..
If the brake works Ok I would live with it.

Forest thanks for your reply. I have it 'all apart' right now I could just reassemble the right rear tire/brake linkage and everything will run. But with the brake pedal not depressed at all, I have found that linkage rod ( brass color ) has some play in it. If I could shorten the distance which is basically the length of the spring by maybe a 1/4" to 1/2" and put the spring back where it attaches to the metal plate ( it sits over the brake rotor ) and then it attaches to the brass colored linkage rod the shorter length of the spring will remove the play in the horizontal movement of the linkage rod. I think this is the reason when you are running the machine and depress the brake it takes slightly longer to stop, no big deal here but now
your foot is fully depressing the brake pedal. So now when you take your foot off the brake the machine shoots forward like a rocket.

My latest idea since I do not weld ( I saw where someone cut that linkage rod and welded a long threaded steel screw to the end that eventually attaches to the brake disc area ) but my idea is to get an elongated spring and instead of 5.5" overall length, get one that is say 2" long and then on this spring closest to the front of the machine loop a steel cable somehow and get it taught so the end result is that brass colored rod has zero play in it when the brake is "off". My other idea is use the same much shorter spring and then add a, "Adjustable Hook with Ring Stainless Steel Turnbuckle Hook" and this could be used inline to take up the slack in the linkage rod.

Jim
P.S. If I do nothing and put everything back the way it is the only real problem is jack rabbit starts when the foot comes off the brake, even slowly.

 

[Forest#2]

I felt your pain about those neck jerking, wheel standing jack rabbit starts with several of the Lawn tractors models as the brake/clutch pedal is let off. Really aggravating and just the nature of the beast on some.

What I've noticed it's USUALLY not the brake releasing quickly but is the motion drive belt instantly grabbing. with the correct size belt installed and all the pulleys ok.
On some models I have not found a good solution.
I can confirm it being the motion drive belt grabbing by wetting the drive belt or even smearing little bit of oil or vaseline onto the belt. The oil/water will wear off quickly. This just helps confirm quickly that it's the drive belt grabbing by allowing the belt to slip for a softer start when the clutch/brake is released.

 

[JimP2014]

I felt your pain about those neck jerking, wheel standing jack rabbit starts with several of the Lawn tractors models as the brake/clutch pedal is let off. Really aggravating and just the nature of the beast on some.

What I've noticed it's USUALLY not the brake releasing quickly but is the motion drive belt instantly grabbing. with the correct size belt installed and all the pulleys ok.
On some models I have not found a good solution.
I can confirm it being the motion drive belt grabbing by wetting the drive belt or even smearing little bit of oil or vaseline onto the belt. The oil/water will wear off quickly. This just helps confirm quickly that it's the drive belt grabbing by allowing the belt to slip for a softer start when the clutch/brake is released.

So I see where you say it's a drive belt and that's a really easy quick solution what you're talking about but I believe the problem is that linkage rod has too much play in it you don't think that's true just curious?
Jim

 

[Forest#2]

I'm just saying that those wheel standing, neck jerking, jack rabbit starts on some riding lawn mowers is the drive belt instantly grabbing even as the clutch/brake is slowly released, not the brake releasing all at once.
You can either do as I suggested to the drive belt or completely disconnect the brake linkage so the brake does not even apply and test and see if you still have the wheel standing clutch grabbing type issue. You might be correct in it being the brake but I've never seen such cause the instant clutch grab issue for jack rabbit starts.

I see this jack rabbit issue most often on the manual shift models that have the spring loaded zig-zag idler pulleys as the clutch drive engauge/disengauge.

Post up the complete model number from under the seat of your LT2000.

 

[JimP2014]

917289070 Craftsman Lawn Tractor <--- I am using this for parts​

 

[JimP2014]

917289070 Craftsman Lawn Tractor <--- I am using this for parts​

I am not sure of what the Sears parts has for a spring, their catalog depicts a spring that is say 2" long. But The one that this machine has is this one;
Husqvarna 532197296 Hg3000/3500 Brake Spring <--- and it is 5.5" long and has worked well for years, just not so much this year - mainly due to "jack rabbit starts".

It does stop the machine. Another thing I noticed is you have to press the brake very far down in order for the ignition to crank the starter, this seems new also. In the past the brake did not need to be pressed down so hard. So the actual pedal travel in the horiz and forward direction seems like it is say 2" more than it was and this is for starting.

Jim