Did you find the clip? Here are the parts I used:
Tire came off with the axle
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semimechanicman
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would it fit the transmission i have? i can ask the people selling to make sure but just in case
my model is t2 abbc 5x1a 1xx1
These parts seem to be for many Hydro-Gear models. Someone on this forum was nice enough to give me the part numbers. My trans is a T2-AABC-1X1A-1GXX. I found that in the parts diagram of my Craftsman model.
bertsmobile1
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I use an air hammer / air chisel to remove rusted on wheels .
So on the other side soak the axel with your favourite penetrant .
If the key is close to the E-clip tap it in 1/4 to 1/2" this will break the rust seal around the key & slot
Move slot to the top & apply more penetrant
Place a pair of scissor jacks between the wheel & the frame then do them up WITH YOUR FINGERS to take up the slack
Then hit the axel with the air hammer till the jacks come loose
Tighten them again and repeat
Some times I wire brush the axel behind the wheel as it moves, then the hole in the wheel lube & tap back on to get the penetrant in .
Patience is what is needed
Heat will help
You can heat the wheel to red heat if you like but that means repainting the wheel and risks damage to the tyre
When you refit the wheel polish off the rust on both the wheel & the hole ( rifle brushes work well for the wheel )
Apply plenty of grease and fill the key slot with grease ( copper anti seize is better )
Replace the wheel then tap the key in flush with the end of the rim
This fills the key slot with grease & prevents water getting in thus a repeat performance.
The axels should be greased every 2 to 6 years depending upon your climate
I do them every second service
Check the slot the clip in the gearbox sits in
Some times the edges break off or crack and of course that little chunk of alloy will wait for the least oppertune moment to get jambed between the teeth .
For the side that is out
polish the inside of the axel
place the axel on some hardwood
put a socket or pipe on the rim tube and hammer the rim further onto the axel
Helps if you can tap the key out with a long pin punch first
As the axel comes out of the front of the wheel, polish it then tap back in using a drift so you do not damage the end of the axel
Once it is a bout 1/4 to 1/3 the way out usually it will tap in then right through with sufficent lubricant
So on the other side soak the axel with your favourite penetrant .
If the key is close to the E-clip tap it in 1/4 to 1/2" this will break the rust seal around the key & slot
Move slot to the top & apply more penetrant
Place a pair of scissor jacks between the wheel & the frame then do them up WITH YOUR FINGERS to take up the slack
Then hit the axel with the air hammer till the jacks come loose
Tighten them again and repeat
Some times I wire brush the axel behind the wheel as it moves, then the hole in the wheel lube & tap back on to get the penetrant in .
Patience is what is needed
Heat will help
You can heat the wheel to red heat if you like but that means repainting the wheel and risks damage to the tyre
When you refit the wheel polish off the rust on both the wheel & the hole ( rifle brushes work well for the wheel )
Apply plenty of grease and fill the key slot with grease ( copper anti seize is better )
Replace the wheel then tap the key in flush with the end of the rim
This fills the key slot with grease & prevents water getting in thus a repeat performance.
The axels should be greased every 2 to 6 years depending upon your climate
I do them every second service
Check the slot the clip in the gearbox sits in
Some times the edges break off or crack and of course that little chunk of alloy will wait for the least oppertune moment to get jambed between the teeth .
For the side that is out
polish the inside of the axel
place the axel on some hardwood
put a socket or pipe on the rim tube and hammer the rim further onto the axel
Helps if you can tap the key out with a long pin punch first
As the axel comes out of the front of the wheel, polish it then tap back in using a drift so you do not damage the end of the axel
Once it is a bout 1/4 to 1/3 the way out usually it will tap in then right through with sufficent lubricant
StarTech
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You can't tap an axle when there is not one. This transaxle uses the double D axles.
From Hydro Gear Dealer IPL lookup
If rim will move a little I have found soaking with 2 cycle fuel mix works better than the penetration fluids like WD-40. Still take time and applications along constant attempts at loosening as this work out the rust and dirt. Completely froze out rims are different story. A royal pita to get off.
Also can't just use a punch on the end of the axle because it has a threaded hole for the retaining screw. Now a punch that fit inside the hole and bottoms out can work. Either way the rim must be block to where it is held out and it can't move so the axle takes the impacts and not the whole assembly. Even then axle will only move slightly will require re-shimming the rim after each movement. Now does assumes that axle is still in the transaxle. If out then it is different.
From Hydro Gear Dealer IPL lookup
If rim will move a little I have found soaking with 2 cycle fuel mix works better than the penetration fluids like WD-40. Still take time and applications along constant attempts at loosening as this work out the rust and dirt. Completely froze out rims are different story. A royal pita to get off.
Also can't just use a punch on the end of the axle because it has a threaded hole for the retaining screw. Now a punch that fit inside the hole and bottoms out can work. Either way the rim must be block to where it is held out and it can't move so the axle takes the impacts and not the whole assembly. Even then axle will only move slightly will require re-shimming the rim after each movement. Now does assumes that axle is still in the transaxle. If out then it is different.
bertsmobile1
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In which case, ignore my last paragraph for your mower .
support the rim then hit the end with the air hammer
I use an off set jaw vice for this but the hole in a bench would work just fine
semimechanicman
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i got everything else done but i just need the gasket for the transaxle now, can’t seem to find it yet
There is no gasket. Clean all the old RTV off and use a oil resistant RTV to seal it. Only put a 1\6-1\8" bead around the casting and around the bolt holes. Mate the parts while still wet. Torque to 1\2 spec in proper sequence, then to spec. I have attached the torque and sequence pages from the svc manual. I let it sit overnight to allow the RTV to cure then filled with 20w50 full synthetic oil to 1\2" below the fill hole. There is a fill plug on the top of the trans, use an Allen to remove. Then reinstall and purge. Procedure attached.