Help with ID and compression, pretty please.

[PTmowerMech]

The ID plate isn't under the gas tank, so other than the tag in the pic, I can't find it. Where do they put them on these old tecumseh's?

Also, and just as important, the engine has compression. Except it's all going out the carburetor. So I'm guessing it has a valve stuck? Is that right? I can't hold my thumb over the carb tight enough to get a compression reading.
.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Kinds looks like a HM60 or a HH60. Is it aluminum or cast iron block?

 

[StarTech]

On that old Troy-Bilt Horse there should a model and serial before the separation point the tines transmission. Also that Tecumseh will be likely a HH60 or HH70. Now looking at the engine from the front the model and spec will stamp on the right side of the engine shroud. (Left side if you're are standing behind the handle bars.)

 

[PTmowerMech]

Kinds looks like a HM60 or a HH60. Is it aluminum or cast iron block?

The block is steel. But the backside cover is aluminum.

 

[PTmowerMech]

On that old Troy-Bilt Horse there should a model and serial before the separation point the tines transmission. Also that Tecumseh will be likely a HH60 or HH70. Now looking at the engine from the front the model and spec will stamp on the right side of the engine shroud. (Left side if you're standing the handle bars.

Right where you said it was. I looked there and didn't see anything until I took a wire brush to it. This it just magically appeared. Thanks man.
HH60-105107G.

 

[StarTech]

See sometimes I am good for something...

 

[StarTech]

PT ever heard of leak down tests?There are commercial units that help find things like stuck valves or bad rings. Harbor Freight now has two versions.

One you use 100 psi and the second gauge cylinder pressure. You have to do a little math to get the percentages.

The other unit uses a scale to this for you. Now it does the test at a much lower pressure range. Mine operates with 12-14 psi to get to set mark. It much easier to cycle the cylinder thru it paces as you are not fighting 100 psi. Great for finding middle and bottom cylinder problem on OHV engines but doesn't work this way for L-heads. I have found several OHV engines with taper cylinders with this tester. On top that it is about a third of the cost of the higher priced unit.

With either unit always reset to zero pressure before storage or you might damage the gauges the next you pressurize it.

 

[PTmowerMech]

PT ever heard of leak down tests?There are commercial units that help find things like stuck valves or bad rings. Harbor Freight now has two versions.

One you use 100 psi and the second gauge cylinder pressure. You have to do a little math to get the percentages.

The other unit uses a scale to this for you. Now it does the test at a much lower pressure range. Mine operates with 12-14 psi to get to set mark. It much easier to cycle the cylinder thru it paces as you are not fighting 100 psi. Great for finding middle and bottom cylinder problem on OHV engines but doesn't work this way for L-heads. I have found several OHV engines with taper cylinders with this tester. On top that it is about a third of the cost of the higher priced unit.

With either unit always reset to zero pressure before storage or you might damage the gauges the next you pressurize it.

So a crap load of pressure blowing back out the carburetor, every time the piston comes up, might not mean a stuck valve?

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Pull rhe head and look at the valves. If the engine has set for a long time with the intake valve open it may have stuck open with a little rust on the stem. If it is squirt a little oil on the stem through the intake port and then tap the valve closed then rotate the engine and see if it sticks open. If it does tap it closed angain and repeat till valve is freed up.

 

[PTmowerMech]

Pull rhe head and look at the valves. If the engine has set for a long time with the intake valve open it may have stuck open with a little rust on the stem. If it is squirt a little oil on the stem through the intake port and then tap the valve closed then rotate the engine and see if it sticks open. If it does tap it closed angain and repeat till valve is freed up.

I'd better wait for the customer to give the OK to go on the clock before I dig any farther. Being as old as it is. he may not wanna put any money into it. I looked up some parts for it earlier. I can't remember which valve it was, but one was pretty cheap. Like $13. The other was $50+