non starting timecutter

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Hello. I have a Toro timecutter Z4200 with a Kohler engine. It is difficult /impossible to start and wondered if anyone has some advice. It has a new 20Ah battery, new solenoid, new spart plug etc. If I remove the spark plug and start it the engine will turn over, albeit it doesn't seem to be that fast. However once the plug is in there doesn't seem to be enough power to compress the mixture and fire. Any ideas? thanks
 
So what you are trying to say is it does not crank smoothly.
Classic case of valve lash opening up and defeating the decompressor.
So go to the Toro web site and download the service manual for your engine & set the valve lash.
I can not be more specific as it could have a plethora of different engines fitted.
 
bertsmobile1 said:
So what you are trying to say is it does not crank smoothly.
Classic case of valve lash opening up and defeating the decompressor.
So go to the Toro web site and download the service manual for your engine & set the valve lash.
I can not be more specific as it could have a plethora of different engines fitted.
Click to expand...

thank you . Is this normally a straight forward job? Do you need special tools?
 
OP, you said "Spark plug" I'm guessing you have a 1 cylinder engine ?

Anyhow in addition to the tools mentioned, you would need a "feeler gauge" to adjust the valve lash to, it might for example .004 on Intake & .005 on exhaust .
 
This should take some the guess work out.

NOTE: the 74380 (Timer Cutter 4200) has 10 different serial number breaks so the serial is needed for the correct mower parts. The one I check had the Kohler SV590-0023 engine (The bucket engine design).

Per SM Valve clearances on the SV590 are .005 IN and .007 EX. Once the clearance set hold nut in position and torque set screw (T15 Torx drive) to 5.5 N·m (50 in. lb.), double check clearance clearance once set screw is torque; may need need resetting.

Also I have seen the starters to be a problem on these engines as the bushings wear out causing binding. So if it is not an ACR issue it can be the starter itself.

Also resealing the valve cover it is prefer you use either Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Grey RTV. Surfaces must be oil free. Use Permatex surface prep / accelerator for best result along with it being allowed cure for at least 12 hrs before starting the engine. Finger tight the screws and let cure then torque them to 65 in-lbs. The reason behind this procedure is that the RTV will cure slowly in a sealed environment plus if oil is allow to contact the RTV it will not cure properly.

SV590 Valve cover seal.PNGSV590 Valve cover.PNG
 
When it comes a RTV sealant i have switched over to Permatex The Right Stuff. It is a little more expensive than Ultra ones but over 100 uses and no leaks. Especially on the Courage valve covers. Like AVB said, finger tight for 12 hours then torque. I finger tight for an hour or two then torque and it is ready to go. I buy it in the 2 tube with mini caulk gun pack. Just don't use it, like most other RTV, where gasoline is present. I use Threebond 1184 for that.
 
And it isn't a bad idea to separate the inner from the outer layer on the valve cover to get rid of the oil inside, because it can seep out between the two halves and contaminate the sealant leading to a leak.
 
Correct. I forgot about that as it is an automate thing to do here. Tnx for the reminder.
 
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