TC SS4260 mower deck bearings growling

[need-for-speed]

When you put in your new bearings why don't you remove the inner bearing seals and then drill and tap your spindle housing and install your own grease fittings. Just be careful if you do this that you don't over grease them.

That's exactly what I was thinking! Has anyone here done that ?

 

[need-for-speed]

Thanks for the great responses. I pulled the deck and it is definitely the front pulley!!

grrrrrrrrr.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Thanks for the great responses. I pulled the deck and it is definitely the front pulley!!

grrrrrrrrr.

If that is the spindle pulley, then bite the bullet and replace them all.
Undo the top nut & remov the pulleys then the bottom nut & replace the bllades.
The spindles will then knock out from the top.
The bottom bearing usually comes out with the shaft & the top gets knocked out from the bottom

 

[need-for-speed]

If that is the spindle pulley, then bite the bullet and replace them all.
Undo the top nut & remov the pulleys then the bottom nut & replace the bllades.
The spindles will then knock out from the top.
The bottom bearing usually comes out with the shaft & the top gets knocked out from the bottom

thanks bert.

It was the flat idler pulleys. I will replace both. I will keep your info for when the spindle bearings eventually wear out. :thumbsup:

 

[bertsmobile1]

thanks bert.

It was the flat idler pulleys. I will replace both. I will keep your info for when the spindle bearings eventually wear out. :thumbsup:

Idlers generally fail early because of water that wicks into the bearing from the deck being washed when hot.
Blow the deck clean with air and never use a pressure washer.
Now days they have got them down pat and generally by the time an idler bearing goes where sill be significant wear in the running face.
If you really want to and the running face is still good you can cut out the welds, replace the bearing then bolt or rivet them aback together.
I have done a few because the idlers were over $ 100 Aus & the bearing was $ 25 but in most cases I use Stens or Prime idlers which are 1/2 to 1/3 the price of machine branded ones.
Just be careful of very cheap ones on the net.
Most OEM pulleys use a double row deep groove bearing but cheap Imported ones use single row bearings which wear very quickly

 

[need-for-speed]

Thanks Bert. I just finished replacing the idlers and that fixed the problem! Two pulleys at $18 each !!

I only use a leaf blower to clean the mower. I've never washed my deck. HOWEVER, I usually jump in my salt water pool before mowing, and that has definitely done number on a small part of the deck, and the metal plate that the seat is bolted to. That could very well be what FUBARed the idler pulley bearings. Going forward, I'll sit on a towel when mowing.

I have wire wheeled, sanded, primed, and painted the affected part of the deck and the plate under the seat.

The bearings you refer to - "cutting out the welds" - are you referring to the spindle bearings ?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Thanks Bert. I just finished replacing the idlers and that fixed the problem! Two pulleys at $18 each !!

I only use a leaf blower to clean the mower. I've never washed my deck. HOWEVER, I usually jump in my salt water pool before mowing, and that has definitely done number on a small part of the deck, and the metal plate that the seat is bolted to. That could very well be what FUBARed the idler pulley bearings. Going forward, I'll sit on a towel when mowing.

I have wire wheeled, sanded, primed, and painted the affected part of the deck and the plate under the seat.

The bearings you refer to - "cutting out the welds" - are you referring to the spindle bearings ?

No that was idler bearings.
Idlers are a PIA down here as they are mostly mower parts and funny sizes so the after market companies do not make them or the local wholesaler do not stock them

So in some cases I drill out the welds / rivets holding the 2 sides of the idler together which allows the bearings to come out.
A lot of mucking around but it is nothing to find I get gouged to the order of $ 80 to $ 150 ( Aus ) for a pulley & bearing that I know cost around $ 20.
Idles with good running surfaces get tossed into a box and when I have down time they get the bearings replaced.
Got a customer with a Dixon Ram & the dealer wants $ 145 & $ 112 for the 2 deck idlers.
I can get them in the USA for $ 35 & $ 38 ( US ) + shipping so I know the local system is gouging.
The bearings cost $ 45 retail each & and in hour of work the job was done so for less than 1 genuine factory pulley the customer got 2 pulleys replaced.
There are a lot of dealers down here who believe that once they have sold a customer their brand of mower, they own the customer and have exclusive rights to make money from them.

 

[need-for-speed]

No that was idler bearings.
Idlers are a PIA down here as they are mostly mower parts and funny sizes so the after market companies do not make them or the local wholesaler do not stock them

So in some cases I drill out the welds / rivets holding the 2 sides of the idler together which allows the bearings to come out.
A lot of mucking around but it is nothing to find I get gouged to the order of $ 80 to $ 150 ( Aus ) for a pulley & bearing that I know cost around $ 20.
Idles with good running surfaces get tossed into a box and when I have down time they get the bearings replaced.
Got a customer with a Dixon Ram & the dealer wants $ 145 & $ 112 for the 2 deck idlers.
I can get them in the USA for $ 35 & $ 38 ( US ) + shipping so I know the local system is gouging.
The bearings cost $ 45 retail each & and in hour of work the job was done so for less than 1 genuine factory pulley the customer got 2 pulleys replaced.
There are a lot of dealers down here who believe that once they have sold a customer their brand of mower, they own the customer and have exclusive rights to make money from them.

daaaayaaam ! That sux that the price is so high. Thanks for the good advice. My mower deck is purring now !

G'Day !!