My Zero Turn John Deere Z225 EZ Trak with Briggs motor had a dead battery after sitting all winter. I jumped post to post (didn't know better) but had to replace the battery. Must have damaged something when jumping. PROBLEM #1... There was no gas feed to carb. Replaced gas filter, still none. Both fuses have continuity (good). Removed solenoid plunger from carb and it started. Bought new solenoid but still no start so running with old solenoid without plunger. PROBLEM #2... PTO switch will not engage clutch. Also noticed hour meter is not working. Replaced relay (#24) but no change. Brake, Seat, Neutral switches are all working. I do not know anything else I can replace other than the coil, regulator, and alternator but I do not think the engine would run if they were bad. It is a 3 hour drive to a John Deere repair shop. Please help if you have any idea what the problem is.
John Deere Z225 Zero Turn Will Not Start - Complicated Problem Driving Me Crazy.
- Thread starter EdGallop
- Start date
mechanic mark
Lawn Pro
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=wont start jd z225 Recheck fuses and replace, check all wiring, hands on, for loose connections. When you touched positive to negative posts on battery, fuse or fuses were blown.
OMM154566_A7 Scroll down to troubleshooting and electrical left side of page.
Error click anyway Showing 1- 7.5amp fuse and 2 more fuses under tag 8 & 9.
email John Deere support and ask them to send you wiring diagram for z225.
OMM154566_A7 Scroll down to troubleshooting and electrical left side of page.
Error click anyway Showing 1- 7.5amp fuse and 2 more fuses under tag 8 & 9.
email John Deere support and ask them to send you wiring diagram for z225.
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Thanks MM... I did not touch positive to ground but changed both fuses this morning on your recommendation. Still nothing.
Thanks Bison... I checked the obvious grounds this morning and all looks good, however... You gave me the idea to trace every wire connection from the carb solenoid. I noticed the clutch and carb solenoid (both not working) feed into the same first connector (no corrosion) but the hour meter doesn't. It may just be a bad meter though. I'm not very good with a voltmeter but it is time to learn. I think you may be correct to suspect corrosion. Don't know why I didn't think of that.
gfp55
Well-Known Member
I don't know if your machine has one, but is there a inline fuse/s anywhere on it?
I looked over the entire wiring harness and couldn't find an in-line fuse. No corrosion either. I checked all the switches (Ignition, PTO, Seat, Brake, and the RH and LH Neutral switches (Zero Turn Steering) and all are working okay. The only wires I couldn't check were under the engine housing. I traced both wires from end to end. There was a .1 M-Amp reading on the hour meter but I don't know what that means. The meter isn't on but maybe the clutch/engine needs to be on. I will check power on the carb solenoid and clutch tomorrow. It has to be something but I am befuddled (spellcheck says that is a word). I appreciate any suggestions.
Bison
Well-Known Member
Some times they use fusable links,Look for a thicker section in a wire, usually with a distinct layer of insulation, they are more or less a diode(power one way only),they do burn out when polarity is acidently reversed
See if these 2 happen to share the same ground and/or power before or after the clutch switch.
Test these wires at each end for continuity, test the ground for continuity to the frame and battery.
Follow the power from both solenoid and clutch to its origin,if it terminates at the ignition switch continuity test the switch, also test the the switches.
A wire might appear good from the out side but the core could be broken inside, check the wires for flexibility, any soft spot is suspect,..these places are often found at flex point in the harness between the engine and frame(vibration is often a culprit. connectors could have corrosion in the pins or the terminals, pull them apart and look.
Fuses could be good but have corrosion between the contact points,..it does not take much to cut power or reduce the voltage to components,...same for grounds.
For eliminating problems or rule a neutral switch in or out you can jump them,..just make sure the tranny is in neutral.
Power the clutch and carb solenoid individually with a jumper wire straight from the battery, listen if they klick, check the clutch if it engages., if not then one or both could be defective
Great advice... Thanks. When I was younger things came to me much faster but age (73) has taken a toll. Enjoy your youth and take advantage of your capabilities. It will not last forever. I have made continuity checks on wires from the PTO to the clutch and ground connections. All are good. I will check to make sure power/ground is on the clutch and if so, then the clutch must be bad. It is a pain to get to but should have been one of my first diagnosis. I will cover all your suggestions. Very much appreciated.
Bison
Well-Known Member
I ain't exactly a spring chicken anymore either if that is what you think, i'm 64 :laughing:
As for capabilities I am proud to be a jack of all trades and a real DIYourselfer.
I have not needed a mechanic welder machinist plumber electrician carpenter for 40 odd years and i farm full time to boot and by my lonesome.