Assuming the blades are sharp and the grass is dry, the real story of cutting vs. clogging , as noted in a previous reply, is about the air flow of the cut grass. Does the engineering of a mower really focus on how efficient the grass will discharge? After about 50+ years of messing with mowers, cleaning-sharpening blades-changing blades, and now with a (small) mower repair business to occupy my retirement, I would say that sales is just about all a mower mfg has in mind when design is on the table. Fact of the matter, if you get a mower that never clogs and never throws out chunks resembling buffalo chips, then you have one hellofva mower. As for wet grass, it will stick to the deck, some deck designs trap more than others. The 3-blade units will do a better job cutting and mulching simply because there are more cutting edge surfaces flying around. As for mowing, another thing that impedes good grass flow discharge as well as helping to produce 'clots' are those confounded ""safety" flaps. Me, and most folks, raise the flaps up several inches by attaching a string to them and tie the other end to the mower to 'relieve' the back pressure created by the blade's trailing edge trying to lift the grass up so the following blade's cutting edge can whack it. Otherwise the blades create a lot of bound-up turbulence which reduces the cutting efficiency, and, makes you have to travel slower to achieve a nice cut. Me, I would rather eat manure with a pitchfork than mow grass, so, the sooner I can get off the beast the better. (Got 3 acres here to cut)
Here's a tip: Pull the deck off, turn it over and do a really good clean-up. I mean wire brush everything off. Try to remove the sharp edges where grass hangs up. For bare metal, prime it, paint it. Then apply a light coat of motor oil, used oil is fine. The oil will repel moisture, will help prevent corrosion, and if you do this a couple times a year, especially at season's end, you will have a deck that will outlast the motor.
