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Well hello again folks, been a bit for me here. I wanted to ask a few questions from you professionals who run Husqvarna equipment.

A family member recently ordered a new mower (Ferris) after having some engine troubles with his Husqvarna 6127. He claims it turns over, which i verified, but it won't fire up. He also claimed it was knocking a little prior to it not starting, and it's about 1o years old, so he opted for a new shiny suspension this and that unit and is giving me his old 6127. Said he replaced 1 pump a year back or so, but the other one was running strong. Hour meter reads 241, which seem low to me.

Problem is, I don't have a clue what I am looking at. He mentioned it was a 62" cut, and the deck and belts don't look bad at all. It also appears to have some form of Kohler engine, but I am not sure what horse. I suspect 27 but could be 25?

I really just hated to let the mower go to waste, especially for what it is. It would make a great farm ZT for me to clear the drive and areas around our barns. I also however, don't want to get into it about 2k deep trying to fix it.

I have included some pictures I took yesterday to verify the model, and maybe the engine type.

I would be interested in any re-power options available, other than the Kohler, which i sourced to small engine warehouse at a cost of about 1500 (should be direct plug and play replacement). I'd like to know what options are out there for me, the do-it-yourselfer to install himself. I know my way around mowers, i have taken a few engines down in the past and replaced various working parts.

I am also fine with switching to the B&S Commercial turf series @ 25 or 27 hp, being that is what's currently on my Scag and running strong. The only issue I see here is figuring out the wiring harness conversions myself. If someone sells that type of adapter I'd be interested in knowing.

Thanks in advance for any and all info you can give me.

Homer.

ZTH 6127
Zero Turn Do not know what H stands for
61 is cutting deck width
27 is engine the horsepower
User Manual http://cdn.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2003_USen/HUSO2003_USen_O0303008_.pdf
Parts Manual http://cdn.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2003_USen/HUSI2003_USen_I0303014_.pdf
In my part of the woods, it is worth around $2500 to $3000
They came with either a Kohler or Kawasaki engine. You will have to look at the model number on the engine for that info.
By the way, if you do not want it just let me know and I will take a couple days off work and come take it off your hands.

BlazNT said:

ZTH 6127
Zero Turn Do not know what H stands for
61 is cutting deck width
27 is engine the horsepower
User Manual http://cdn.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2003_USen/HUSO2003_USen_O0303008_.pdf
Parts Manual http://cdn.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2003_USen/HUSI2003_USen_I0303014_.pdf
In my part of the woods, it is worth around $2500 to $3000
They came with either a Kohler or Kawasaki engine. You will have to look at the model number on the engine for that info.
By the way, if you do not want it just let me know and I will take a couple days off work and come take it off your hands.

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And that looks very much like a Kohler Command with the optional Donaldson air filter by the look of the breather in the rocker cover.

According to the manual it's the 27 horse CV740s engine, Kohler.

I don't think it's EFI, but most of the new versions are, wonder how that works out in a direct swap out.

I wonder if I could just drop to a 25 horse 7000 series, or the commercial turf briggs and keep the exhaust and mounts the same. Wiring another issue I guess.

I'd like to have a new engine for less than 1k and get her running again. It's not worth a 1800 engine to me, if I can't somehow get this one repaired. Having alot of issues sourcing the engine specs, and the engine ID is long gone. Seems like Kohler used stickers rather then stamping like briggs, so I can't find an ID anywhere on the engine, just using the manual for info.

I have a spare 24 horse in my back yard. Like I said if you do not want it I will come take it.:laughing::laughing::laughing:

Any engine around 25Hp and over will be fine.
Being a commercial it should have a 1.125" crank or even 1.25" so pull the pulleys off and measure it.
Then go to the surplus & remaindered engine sellers like Small Engine Supplies, Small engine Warehouse, Surplus center, etc,etc.
Pick any one with the same shaft diameter & length.
There will not be much under $ 1000 because most of these are around $ 3000 + retail.

I have sourced a few engines in the 25 range. The issue I see with the Briggs CT series is the shaft length. The current engine has a length of 4" and the Briggs is 4-5/16. Will this cause a major problem in pully alignment or is there a spacer I can purchase to make it work?

The Briggs is a 27 horse for just under 800 bucks.

The alternate is a Kohler 7000 series 25 horse which is a lesser engine but should do what I require.

Thanks for the input folks. The help is appreciated.

The redneck in me says just use 5/16 worth of washer under the engine where it mounts to frame to eliminate the added shaft size? Is that technically safe?

Homer1 said:

The redneck in me says just use 5/16 worth of washer under the engine where it mounts to frame to eliminate the added shaft size? Is that technically safe?

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I am only a 1/2 red neck ( does that make me a pink neck ? ) so I would use some 1/4 steel plate under the engine for better support.
OR if the key way is long enough in the shaft and the bolt hole is deep enough cut 5/16 off the end of the PTO shaft.
Done it several times with a thin cut of wheel and the engine running on slow idle so the end is relatively square or at lest flat .
If you are not going to use it 4 hours a day 5 days a week, a domestic engine will do you fine.

The plate sounds like a plus. However, I got to thinking that even with the correct shaft spacing I may also need some sort of crankshaft spacer between the engine and pulley as well. Perhaps a brass washer or otherwise. Haven't really got a good look at the project yet.

I've sort of selected this engine as the one I'd like to use, however it has the "choke-a-matic" and I currently have a manual choke system. I wonder if they have this model with a regular choke. I'd really rather not have to break down the carb or whatever else is required to disable this.

https://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/shop/html/pages/products/briggs_vertical_shaft_engines4395.html

Homer1 said:

The plate sounds like a plus. However, I got to thinking that even with the correct shaft spacing I may also need some sort of crankshaft spacer between the engine and pulley as well. Perhaps a brass washer or otherwise. Haven't really got a good look at the project yet.

I've sort of selected this engine as the one I'd like to use, however it has the "choke-a-matic" and I currently have a manual choke system. I wonder if they have this model with a regular choke. I'd really rather not have to break down the carb or whatever else is required to disable this.

https://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/shop/html/pages/products/briggs_vertical_shaft_engines4395.html

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Usually you can swap the control plates from one to another with little more than taping a couple of holes.
Provided they are the came configeration.