zt 2200 hydrostatic transmission

N

Nuclear

Member
Trying to suck the oil out through the fill hole using an oil syringe with 1/4 if hose. Only been able to get 22oz out seems to be no way to get the hose deeper in the unit.
Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Nuclear said:
Trying to suck the oil out through the fill hole using an oil syringe with 1/4 if hose. Only been able to get 22oz out seems to be no way to get the hose deeper in the unit.
Any advice would be appreciated.
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I hear that some people remove the trans and flip it upside down. My AT in my Civic requires removal and replacement of 2.3(?) quarts of fluid every so often, so theoretically the fluid is completely changed every three (?) services. My civic has 270k miles with no transmission problems so far.

I’d say find out how much the transmission holds, replace the 22 ounces and go for another season and replace another 22 ounces until you’ve changed it.
 
VirginiaIron said:
I hear that some people remove the trans and flip it upside down. My AT in my Civic requires removal and replacement of 2.3(?) quarts of fluid every so often, so theoretically the fluid is completely changed every three (?) services. My civic has 270k miles with no transmission problems so far.

I’d say find out how much the transmission holds, replace the 22 ounces and go for another season and replace another 22 ounces until you’ve changed it.
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That's what I was thinking. Thanks
 
I removed my Hydro gear from my Troy Built RZT50 and turned the drive unit upside down with both the plugs removed on a 5 gallon bucket it was just under 2 QT , my old oil looked like a milk shake. The plug you can see before removing the drive unit is a vent to let pressure in and out as it warms and cools . The fill plug is under the metal unseen until unit is removed , The manual says it is not serviceable but on the next page it tells you how to do it . Made my mower drive like new .
 
Rocky J said:
I removed my Hydro gear from my Troy Built RZT50 and turned the drive unit upside down with both the plugs removed on a 5 gallon bucket it was just under 2 QT , my old oil looked like a milk shake. The plug you can see before removing the drive unit is a vent to let pressure in and out as it warms and cools . The fill plug is under the metal unseen until unit is removed , The manual says it is not serviceable but on the next page it tells you how to do it . Made my mower drive like new .
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How many hours did you have on the transmissions?
 
VirginiaIron said:
How many hours did you have on the transmissions?
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This mower has no hour meter so I am guessing 50 to 75 hours . The problem was caused by the 3 of the 5 fan blades broke off on the left hand side and the mower would stop moving on that side after 15 minutes of trimming around trees . So I would guess it would get hot and condensation happened on the inside . If mowing straight it would last a hour or more but a lot of turns would get it hot. All the water in the oil made the oil hard to compress and with enough heat it was impossible , I am sure it was foaming which would be similar to air in your brake lines.
 
Rocky J said:
This mower has no hour meter so I am guessing 50 to 75 hours . The problem was caused by the 3 of the 5 fan blades broke off on the left hand side and the mower would stop moving on that side after 15 minutes of trimming around trees . So I would guess it would get hot and condensation happened on the inside . If mowing straight it would last a hour or more but a lot of turns would get it hot. All the water in the oil made the oil hard to compress and with enough heat it was impossible , I am sure it was foaming which would be similar to air in your brake lines.
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Do you leave the mower outside and uncovered? Do you wash the hot mower down with a water hose after using it?

I ask this because a hot transmission with minimal moisture contamination SHOULD dissipate that moisture through a properly functioning vent.

Maybe stormwater has entered the transmission.

I presume that hosing down a hot transmission would cause vacuum like action and draw water through the vent or the seals.
 
What I have found is the input shaft seal is usually bad allowing water in. Also the filter screen does stop up with that water/oil mix. Draining may not completely resolve the problem.

Things like fishing line and fiber from bailing twine can really eat up a seal.

I even had one last year with a pair tightly whiteys wrap around one input shaft. Apparently the panties were toss out with the clippings.
 
Also, could running the mower in wet boggy areas that splashes water up and under the mower cause water to enter the transmission?
 
VirginiaIron said:
Also, could running the mower in wet boggy areas that splashes water up and under the mower cause water to enter the transmission?
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Over time, leaving the mower outside and exposed to the elements such as rain, is most likely the main cause of water getting into the transaxle and causing hydro oil to become contaminated. Bad seals, etc. is how water enters.
 
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