Busg Hog ES2052- Turn key to start and get nothing from starter- No starter engagement at all- replaced key switch- All safety switches checked for continuity and working (parking brake- seat- each arm are ok) relays all good- fuses all good- Interesting, CAN JUMP STARTER and it runs a few seconds then shuts off- Fuel pump good- checked Alternator/Rectifier, cleaned, seems ok- its as if key not sending juice to starter from key- all connections good as it will not jump start with key in off position. i DO get a click from engaging the blade clutch so that is working Stymied local expert- Any recc's appreciated.-
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Zero Turn Dead w/ Key Turn
- Thread starter Obas1
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Export threadbertsmobile1
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Not a difficult job butt a regular pain in one to do.
First you will need a circuit diagram with the ignition switch connections on it.
Next pull the plug off the rear of the ignition switch and jump the terminals with some short lengths of wire with insulated spades on each end.
Use different coloured wires so you don't mix them up.
When ever you work on the wiring it is prudent to remove the blower housing and pull the magneto wire (s) off because if you make a mistake and just brush over a kill wire with battery voltage you will be back at the parts store spending way too much beer money.
So now you have the ignition switch jumped from B to S + whatever else is connected during starting.
From here it is out with the test light and follow the power trail all the way to the trigger terminal on the solenoid.
If it is a 4 pole solenoid with both a + & - trigger wire then the - can also be switched.
SO if you get + 12V but no ground you then have to go back, hook the test light to the battery + and follow the ground path as well.
I ground down the probe on one of my test lamps so I can poke it in the back of the plugs which makes things a lot easier .
Usually the PTO & parking brake switch will handle the + 12V and the lap bars switches will handle the ground side.
Then to be really confusing they seem to like to shove a relay or two in just for the heck of it.
First you will need a circuit diagram with the ignition switch connections on it.
Next pull the plug off the rear of the ignition switch and jump the terminals with some short lengths of wire with insulated spades on each end.
Use different coloured wires so you don't mix them up.
When ever you work on the wiring it is prudent to remove the blower housing and pull the magneto wire (s) off because if you make a mistake and just brush over a kill wire with battery voltage you will be back at the parts store spending way too much beer money.
So now you have the ignition switch jumped from B to S + whatever else is connected during starting.
From here it is out with the test light and follow the power trail all the way to the trigger terminal on the solenoid.
If it is a 4 pole solenoid with both a + & - trigger wire then the - can also be switched.
SO if you get + 12V but no ground you then have to go back, hook the test light to the battery + and follow the ground path as well.
I ground down the probe on one of my test lamps so I can poke it in the back of the plugs which makes things a lot easier .
Usually the PTO & parking brake switch will handle the + 12V and the lap bars switches will handle the ground side.
Then to be really confusing they seem to like to shove a relay or two in just for the heck of it.
Not a difficult job butt a regular pain in one to do.
First you will need a circuit diagram with the ignition switch connections on it.
Next pull the plug off the rear of the ignition switch and jump the terminals with some short lengths of wire with insulated spades on each end.
Use different coloured wires so you don't mix them up.
When ever you work on the wiring it is prudent to remove the blower housing and pull the magneto wire (s) off because if you make a mistake and just brush over a kill wire with battery voltage you will be back at the parts store spending way too much beer money.
So now you have the ignition switch jumped from B to S + whatever else is connected during starting.
From here it is out with the test light and follow the power trail all the way to the trigger terminal on the solenoid.
If it is a 4 pole solenoid with both a + & - trigger wire then the - can also be switched.
SO if you get + 12V but no ground you then have to go back, hook the test light to the battery + and follow the ground path as well.
I ground down the probe on one of my test lamps so I can poke it in the back of the plugs which makes things a lot easier .
Usually the PTO & parking brake switch will handle the + 12V and the lap bars switches will handle the ground side.
Then to be really confusing they seem to like to shove a relay or two in just for the heck of it.
OK- so all the above seemed ok- on the Kohler Command 20 I found an inline 30amp fuse that had corroded badly- I removed it, jumped the wires with alligator clips, it started... reassembled everything and no start- checked the new inline fuse amps, all good so I guess it's not fixed BUT IT DID START- this is the second time this has happened. So I disconnected the battery to charge it again overnight and see if some silly thing resets (even though I know thats not the issue)- I'm leaning towrds a bad ECM since I can still jump start it and it shuts off after 3 sec's then won't jump again unless I turn key off for a few minutes... this is a weird one- Thaknks for the input- unless I missed something there...
bertsmobile1
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What people regularly miss is the ground circuit from the levers.
Early on it just went to the ground trigger terminal on a 4 post starter solenoid.
Then they started to use it for the ground contact on a relay to power the trigger wire on the starter solenoid, so you have a relay triggering another relay
Early on it just went to the ground trigger terminal on a 4 post starter solenoid.
Then they started to use it for the ground contact on a relay to power the trigger wire on the starter solenoid, so you have a relay triggering another relay