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Z335e engine surge
#1
J
Jonnie_S
J
Jonnie_S
B&S 40N877 engine is surging most noticably at idle and low speed, but even at high speed it does not sound right. Sounds a bit rough.
Mower has less than 30 hours on it. 2 years old.
New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs (old ones looked fine)
Fuel pump seems to work fine. I see fuel trickling into the filter. Crank the engine with the pump output line disconnected and gas spurts out pretty vigorously.
Just for kicks I gravity fed fuel from a container - no difference.
Opened up the carburetor - it looked perfectly clean. Blew out the orifices and re-assembled. This carb has a single emulsion tube, not the 2-tube version I've seen in several youtube videos.
Governor linkage and springs all good.
Fresh fuel (although it is 10% ethanol).
Read lots of posts here and in other forums about engine surging and I'm running out of things to check.
The mower runs ok at high speed and is perfectly usable, but just doesn't sound like its running smoothly. At its lowest speed it lopes badly, almost stalls.
Its still under warranty but a hassle to bring it to a JD service center. Plus, if they determine it just needed a "tune-up", i.e. normal maintenance, that's not covered.
Any ideas?
-Jon
Mower has less than 30 hours on it. 2 years old.
New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs (old ones looked fine)
Fuel pump seems to work fine. I see fuel trickling into the filter. Crank the engine with the pump output line disconnected and gas spurts out pretty vigorously.
Just for kicks I gravity fed fuel from a container - no difference.
Opened up the carburetor - it looked perfectly clean. Blew out the orifices and re-assembled. This carb has a single emulsion tube, not the 2-tube version I've seen in several youtube videos.
Governor linkage and springs all good.
Fresh fuel (although it is 10% ethanol).
Read lots of posts here and in other forums about engine surging and I'm running out of things to check.
The mower runs ok at high speed and is perfectly usable, but just doesn't sound like its running smoothly. At its lowest speed it lopes badly, almost stalls.
Its still under warranty but a hassle to bring it to a JD service center. Plus, if they determine it just needed a "tune-up", i.e. normal maintenance, that's not covered.
Any ideas?
-Jon
#2
PTmowerMech
PTmowerMech
If yours has the Nikki style carb on it, I hate those things. Surging is usually caused by the pilot jet being clogged. But if it runs better at higher RPM's, you might try choking it a little at low idle. If that clears it up, then the pilot jet is probably clogged a little. And needs to be cleaned out.
If it's still under warranty, I wouldn't tell them you took the carb off.
If it's still under warranty, I wouldn't tell them you took the carb off.
#3
J
Jonnie_S
I'll open up the carb again.
-Thanks
J
Jonnie_S
At low idle, if I block off most of the air intake, the idle smoothes out completely, so most likely a fuel problem.If yours has the Nikki style carb on it, I hate those things. Surging is usually caused by the pilot jet being clogged. But if it runs better at higher RPM's, you might try choking it a little at low idle. If that clears it up, then the pilot jet is probably clogged a little. And needs to be cleaned out.
If it's still under warranty, I wouldn't tell them you took the carb off.
I'll open up the carb again.
-Thanks
#4
J
Jonnie_S
J
Jonnie_S
Second time's a charm. Not a speck of dirt in the carb, but stuck a thin wire through every orifice and flushed out and blew everything. Re-assembled and its running perfectly smooth at low and high speeds.
I guess there was something in there somewhere.
Thanks PT for keeping me focused on the carb. Can you identify the carb I have (see pics)? It looks like there's a B&S logo, but I can't find info on what make/model it is.
I guess there was something in there somewhere.
Thanks PT for keeping me focused on the carb. Can you identify the carb I have (see pics)? It looks like there's a B&S logo, but I can't find info on what make/model it is.
#5
shadetree#1
shadetree#1
That 593197 is the carb part number and it's a Nikki type.
Them carbs will have the symptoms you describe.
Here is some links that have some repair/re-build info about Nikki's and info about low priced re-build kits/parts. You got lucky that your twin engines does not use the dual throat Nikki, they can be a pain. some of the links below are for the dual throat but the info is good for applying to the single throat when you are working on them. Them little o-rings around the jet/jets are critical and MUST FIT SNUG as well as the o-ring rubber gasket ABOVE the emulsion tube. If it leaks the carb will flood even though the needle and seat is good.
Small engines repairs links
Nikki Carbs, etc
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/
12/2022
Nikki dual throat carb repair/rebuilding links
Nikki dual throat carb tips and re-building LINK.
Guy asks about jets sizing and re-building a dual throat Nikki carb
https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/nikki-dual-carb-main-jets.29187/
You tube video part 1: (newer style aluminum float bowl Nikki) USE KIT 54832 @ $7
part 2 (older model with steel float bowl) USE KIT 54833 or 54834 @ $9 each depending on the style of Nikki. See part 2 of the video to determine which kit needed.
Search on-line for
VITON o-rings for Briggs & Stratton Nikki carburetor main jets rebuild kit
VITON o-rings for Briggs & Stratton Nikki carburetor main jets rebuild kit for sale
Them carbs will have the symptoms you describe.
Here is some links that have some repair/re-build info about Nikki's and info about low priced re-build kits/parts. You got lucky that your twin engines does not use the dual throat Nikki, they can be a pain. some of the links below are for the dual throat but the info is good for applying to the single throat when you are working on them. Them little o-rings around the jet/jets are critical and MUST FIT SNUG as well as the o-ring rubber gasket ABOVE the emulsion tube. If it leaks the carb will flood even though the needle and seat is good.
Small engines repairs links
Nikki Carbs, etc
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/
12/2022
Nikki dual throat carb repair/rebuilding links
Nikki dual throat carb tips and re-building LINK.
Guy asks about jets sizing and re-building a dual throat Nikki carb
https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/nikki-dual-carb-main-jets.29187/
You tube video part 1: (newer style aluminum float bowl Nikki) USE KIT 54832 @ $7
part 2 (older model with steel float bowl) USE KIT 54833 or 54834 @ $9 each depending on the style of Nikki. See part 2 of the video to determine which kit needed.
Search on-line for
VITON o-rings for Briggs & Stratton Nikki carburetor main jets rebuild kit
VITON o-rings for Briggs & Stratton Nikki carburetor main jets rebuild kit for sale
#6
J
Jonnie_S
J
Jonnie_S
Thanks for the info shadetree!
I've seen lots of generic or no-brand replacement carbs on ebay/amazon/repair-parts sites in the $50-$75 range. Are any of these likely to be better than the Nikki, in the case this carb makes a habit of failing from microscopic-sized particles?
I've seen lots of generic or no-brand replacement carbs on ebay/amazon/repair-parts sites in the $50-$75 range. Are any of these likely to be better than the Nikki, in the case this carb makes a habit of failing from microscopic-sized particles?
#7
shadetree#1
shadetree#1
You asked:
. Are any of these likely to be better than the Nikki, in the case this carb makes a habit of failing from microscopic-sized particles?
No.
If you can remove/install a carb and take one apart and put it back together you should take a shot at yours first. Get a can of carb spray cleaner with the little plastic straw nozzle and a kit that has the bowl gasket and the emulsion tube gasket and if the jet is loose in the emulsion tube (not snug replace that jet o-ring) If the bowl is fairly clean inside the carb most likely just needs spray cleaning and gaskets.
I've only had about a 50/50 when doing a clone Nikki replacement.
I have to be careful and not break the jet when removing the Idle plastic limiter (if it has one) I use a Dremel tool and cut the plastic then slot the shaft for adjustment. If you try to pull the plastic off the jets shaft will usually break. I make a note of the number of turns CW the idle jet is set then remove and spray through the jet hole. The idle jet sometimes only has a good response when going in at about 1 /1/2 turns and no change as it comes out further CCW.
Sometimes has to be re-tweaked when the engine is cold.
Install a Briggs $5 red fuel filter just before the carb. Do not try to use a Red $1 clone filter.
Some of them replacement Clone Nikki's do not even have the correct size jet/jets and they will flood or hunt and surge.
. Are any of these likely to be better than the Nikki, in the case this carb makes a habit of failing from microscopic-sized particles?
No.
If you can remove/install a carb and take one apart and put it back together you should take a shot at yours first. Get a can of carb spray cleaner with the little plastic straw nozzle and a kit that has the bowl gasket and the emulsion tube gasket and if the jet is loose in the emulsion tube (not snug replace that jet o-ring) If the bowl is fairly clean inside the carb most likely just needs spray cleaning and gaskets.
I've only had about a 50/50 when doing a clone Nikki replacement.
I have to be careful and not break the jet when removing the Idle plastic limiter (if it has one) I use a Dremel tool and cut the plastic then slot the shaft for adjustment. If you try to pull the plastic off the jets shaft will usually break. I make a note of the number of turns CW the idle jet is set then remove and spray through the jet hole. The idle jet sometimes only has a good response when going in at about 1 /1/2 turns and no change as it comes out further CCW.
Sometimes has to be re-tweaked when the engine is cold.
Install a Briggs $5 red fuel filter just before the carb. Do not try to use a Red $1 clone filter.
Some of them replacement Clone Nikki's do not even have the correct size jet/jets and they will flood or hunt and surge.
#8
StarTech
StarTech
Actually those after market can be jetted wrong and have other defects. I had a customer that decided to buy a mower from another shop as he insisted on a Craftsman mower. When he got it home the first he did was to call me out. He was told it had a Kohler engine which of course it didn't. It was lean burn surging so I he him to have the other shop repair it. Well all they did was to swap out a perfectly good carburetor that just needed cleaning with an after market that was surging even worst. When I got my hands on it I found the none replaceable idle jet was the wrong size and resized it.
But I only had one Nikki twin barrel to a grain of sand in one of idle jets. And it was because the customer flipped his fuel filter and filled carburetor with trash. About drove nuts as I couldn't see the grain of sand as it was clear. Only when I probed with my micro drill bits that I found it.
Normally you don't jets getting solid material clogs; unless, someone is not using the correct fuel filter, not using a filter at all, or had did as above.
But I only had one Nikki twin barrel to a grain of sand in one of idle jets. And it was because the customer flipped his fuel filter and filled carburetor with trash. About drove nuts as I couldn't see the grain of sand as it was clear. Only when I probed with my micro drill bits that I found it.
Normally you don't jets getting solid material clogs; unless, someone is not using the correct fuel filter, not using a filter at all, or had did as above.
#9
J
Jonnie_S
J
Jonnie_S
Sounds like I'll stick with what I've got since at least I know its jetted properly for the engine.
And I'll get a high quality fuel filter.
Lots of great info -- thanks to all.
And I'll get a high quality fuel filter.
Lots of great info -- thanks to all.
#10
PTmowerMech
Those cheap aftermarket carbs fits several different HP's. But the jet's only actually fit one. I'll only buy an aftermarket carb for equipment that's on it's last leg. Customer just trying to finish out the season, or finish up his mowing til he can find a newer model.
I've got a box of aftermarket carbs that have anything from 5 minutes on them to 5 months.
This craftsman blower I inherited from a customer a few months ago, the high speed jet had to be completely closed off and everything ran from the low side. And it still strokes a little at WOT. I bet it doesn't have 2 hours on it. So I got an aftermarket carb for it, and had to set it the same exact way. I started the low side at 3/4 turns and couldn't get it to idle (either of them) until I was about 2.5 rounds out.
I'm thinking craftsman is using aftermarket carbs. LMAO
PTmowerMech
Actually those after market can be jetted wrong and have other defects. I had a customer that decided to buy a mower from another shop as he insisted on a Craftsman mower. When he got it home the first he did was to call me out. He was told it had a Kohler engine which of course it didn't. It was lean burn surging so I he him to have the other shop repair it. Well all they did was to swap out a perfectly good carburetor that just needed cleaning with an after market that was surging even worst. When I got my hands on it I found the none replaceable idle jet was the wrong size and resized it.
But I only had one Nikki twin barrel to a grain of sand in one of idle jets. And it was because the customer flipped his fuel filter and filled carburetor with trash. About drove nuts as I couldn't see the grain of sand as it was clear. Only when I probed with my micro drill bits that I found it.
Normally you don't jets getting solid material clogs; unless, someone is not using the correct fuel filter, not using a filter at all, or had did as above.
Those cheap aftermarket carbs fits several different HP's. But the jet's only actually fit one. I'll only buy an aftermarket carb for equipment that's on it's last leg. Customer just trying to finish out the season, or finish up his mowing til he can find a newer model.
I've got a box of aftermarket carbs that have anything from 5 minutes on them to 5 months.
This craftsman blower I inherited from a customer a few months ago, the high speed jet had to be completely closed off and everything ran from the low side. And it still strokes a little at WOT. I bet it doesn't have 2 hours on it. So I got an aftermarket carb for it, and had to set it the same exact way. I started the low side at 3/4 turns and couldn't get it to idle (either of them) until I was about 2.5 rounds out.
I'm thinking craftsman is using aftermarket carbs. LMAO
#11
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
I get mine through Alibaba
There you deal mostly directly with the factories and the vendor does not get paid for the items till I have verrified that I got it & it works .
Thus so far 100% of what I go from there have been perfect
There is a second "Ali" called AliExpress set up like Ammozone so the vendors do not have to guarantee there goods are fit for purpose in order to get paid.
SO If you end up giving up on your carb then get one rom Alibaba not Ammozone or Evilpay where all of the criminals dump defective & questionable goods .
As for our carb, your idle circuit is clogged
To clean it requires a bit more than spraying carb cleaner through it
Carb cleaner softens dried up fuel residues it does not get rid of tiny bits of rubber or accumulations of grit that have bypassed your filter .
If you have blasted the carb with high pressure air then you have probably wedged the obstructions deeper in the passageways.
In this case the carb will need to be disassembled then boiled in a big pot with a couple of dishwasher tablets dissolved in it or given a very hot & long ultrasonic clean.
I have had the odd one that took several hours in the ultrasound before it came good.
Jets & passageways should always be blown out BACKWARDS if you are silly enough to use full pressure compressed air
There you deal mostly directly with the factories and the vendor does not get paid for the items till I have verrified that I got it & it works .
Thus so far 100% of what I go from there have been perfect
There is a second "Ali" called AliExpress set up like Ammozone so the vendors do not have to guarantee there goods are fit for purpose in order to get paid.
SO If you end up giving up on your carb then get one rom Alibaba not Ammozone or Evilpay where all of the criminals dump defective & questionable goods .
As for our carb, your idle circuit is clogged
To clean it requires a bit more than spraying carb cleaner through it
Carb cleaner softens dried up fuel residues it does not get rid of tiny bits of rubber or accumulations of grit that have bypassed your filter .
If you have blasted the carb with high pressure air then you have probably wedged the obstructions deeper in the passageways.
In this case the carb will need to be disassembled then boiled in a big pot with a couple of dishwasher tablets dissolved in it or given a very hot & long ultrasonic clean.
I have had the odd one that took several hours in the ultrasound before it came good.
Jets & passageways should always be blown out BACKWARDS if you are silly enough to use full pressure compressed air
#12
J
Jonnie_S
As I said in my previous post, after cleaning the carb a second time, the engine now runs perfectly smooth across the rpm range.
The only thing I did differently the second time was to fish a 30g wire through all the orifices. I never saw any debris, but something must have been in there somewhere.
J
Jonnie_S
Thanks for the info.I get mine through Alibaba
There you deal mostly directly with the factories and the vendor does not get paid for the items till I have verrified that I got it & it works .
Thus so far 100% of what I go from there have been perfect
There is a second "Ali" called AliExpress set up like Ammozone so the vendors do not have to guarantee there goods are fit for purpose in order to get paid.
SO If you end up giving up on your carb then get one rom Alibaba not Ammozone or Evilpay where all of the criminals dump defective & questionable goods .
As for our carb, your idle circuit is clogged
To clean it requires a bit more than spraying carb cleaner through it
Carb cleaner softens dried up fuel residues it does not get rid of tiny bits of rubber or accumulations of grit that have bypassed your filter .
If you have blasted the carb with high pressure air then you have probably wedged the obstructions deeper in the passageways.
In this case the carb will need to be disassembled then boiled in a big pot with a couple of dishwasher tablets dissolved in it or given a very hot & long ultrasonic clean.
I have had the odd one that took several hours in the ultrasound before it came good.
Jets & passageways should always be blown out BACKWARDS if you are silly enough to use full pressure compressed air
As I said in my previous post, after cleaning the carb a second time, the engine now runs perfectly smooth across the rpm range.
The only thing I did differently the second time was to fish a 30g wire through all the orifices. I never saw any debris, but something must have been in there somewhere.
#13
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
You need sweet bugger all build up on the sides of a jet to drastically reduce the volume trough put
And that is before turbulance
Jets are fine reamed not drilled .
And that is before turbulance
Jets are fine reamed not drilled .
#14
J
Johner
J
Johner
Will almost guarantee the high speed jet has dirt in it. Are very small holes along the jet could be plugged or the main jet that screws into it is plugged , or open the jet with a screw driver. If you get a new carb sometimes that jet has to be drilled out with carburetor drills.I get mine through Alibaba
There you deal mostly directly with the factories and the vendor does not get paid for the items till I have verrified that I got it & it works .
Thus so far 100% of what I go from there have been perfect
There is a second "Ali" called AliExpress set up like Ammozone so the vendors do not have to guarantee there goods are fit for purpose in order to get paid.
SO If you end up giving up on your carb then get one rom Alibaba not Ammozone or Evilpay where all of the criminals dump defective & questionable goods .
As for our carb, your idle circuit is clogged
To clean it requires a bit more than spraying carb cleaner through it
Carb cleaner softens dried up fuel residues it does not get rid of tiny bits of rubber or accumulations of grit that have bypassed your filter .
If you have blasted the carb with high pressure air then you have probably wedged the obstructions deeper in the passageways.
In this case the carb will need to be disassembled then boiled in a big pot with a couple of dishwasher tablets dissolved in it or given a very hot & long ultrasonic clean.
I have had the odd one that took several hours in the ultrasound before it came good.
Jets & passageways should always be blown out BACKWARDS if you are silly enough to use full pressure compressed air
#15
L
LMPPLUS
L
LMPPLUS
Jonnie you commented that you blew out the orifices in the carb, you won't get out what you need to get out by just blowing air in it, in fact you may make it even worse, you have a restriction somewhere in the body of the carb soak it carb/ parts cleaner or use a hydro sonic cleaner.B&S 40N877 engine is surging most noticably at idle and low speed, but even at high speed it does not sound right. Sounds a bit rough.
Mower has less than 30 hours on it. 2 years old.
New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs (old ones looked fine)
Fuel pump seems to work fine. I see fuel trickling into the filter. Crank the engine with the pump output line disconnected and gas spurts out pretty vigorously.
Just for kicks I gravity fed fuel from a container - no difference.
Opened up the carburetor - it looked perfectly clean. Blew out the orifices and re-assembled. This carb has a single emulsion tube, not the 2-tube version I've seen in several youtube videos.
Governor linkage and springs all good.
Fresh fuel (although it is 10% ethanol).
Read lots of posts here and in other forums about engine surging and I'm running out of things to check.
The mower runs ok at high speed and is perfectly usable, but just doesn't sound like its running smoothly. At its lowest speed it lopes badly, almost stalls.
Its still under warranty but a hassle to bring it to a JD service center. Plus, if they determine it just needed a "tune-up", i.e. normal maintenance, that's not covered.
Any ideas?
-Jon
#16
J
Johner
J
Johner
This is something happened to me. Toro wood chipper, Ran great end of season. Next time I ran it would not run without choking. Persistent to find the trouble on the third time taking apart the carb, on the main jet covering one of the small holes in the main jet there was s peace of gasket material similar to Teflon tape that snuck up on the tinny hole, trimmed it off and now runs like new. Have no idea where it came from. That is how important it is to clean those small holes. Doubt I will ever see the same thing in my life as above.
#17
J
Johner
J
Johner
Another carb problem came about fixing a customers machine, under those metal plugs inside the carb are fuel channels some with a ball bearing check valve can get plugged from setting to long. If you want to trouble shoot and see the problems use a fine tooth comb to find them.
#18
J
Johner
J
Johner
Most carb. problems can be solved using Fuel Stabilizer. Not one customer came back after sub jesting it and I know it was not for sure what I charged to do the work.
#19
StarTech
StarTech
Many can be but there still age related and other problems that can happen. Things like worn throttle and choke shafts can not be fix using a stabiliser nor can solid materials getting into the fuel system.Most carb. problems can be solved using Fuel Stabilizer. Not one customer came back after sub jesting it and I know it was not for sure what I charged to do the work.
#20
J
Johner
J
Johner
Yes there are many things. Worn throttle and choke shafts have never so far ran into that problem.Many can be but there still age related and other problems that can happen. Things like worn throttle and choke shafts can not be fix using a stabiliser nor can solid materials getting into the fuel system.
#21
StarTech
StarTech
I got one commercial customer that done worn two choke shafts and one throttle shaft on Kawasaki v-twin with dual barrel Nikki carburetors. These carburetors run around $600 to replace. I have manage to save all three by installing bushings and new shafts. And I also have seen other carburetors too that have the same wear.
#22
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
In the 5% of places where a fuel stabilizer is actually needed it works very well
In the other 95% it just wastes money and gives the owner a false sense of security
Fuel stabilizers do not stop fuel evaporating from the carb and leaving gum behind and the gum left behind from fuel with goop in it is a lot harder to remove .
In the other 95% it just wastes money and gives the owner a false sense of security
Fuel stabilizers do not stop fuel evaporating from the carb and leaving gum behind and the gum left behind from fuel with goop in it is a lot harder to remove .
#23
J
Johner
J
Johner
Right, it does not stop vaporization, from what I read it keeps air from entering the tank that holds moisture from collecting in the alcohol that keeps it from gelling. Can give a 2 year protection. Have worked on generators that haven't run since the storm Sandy 10-12 years ago what a mess, even the Alu. shut off valves deuterate. Do not do much commercial work.In the 5% of places where a fuel stabilizer is actually needed it works very well
In the other 95% it just wastes money and gives the owner a false sense of security
Fuel stabilizers do not stop fuel evaporating from the carb and leaving gum behind and the gum left behind from fuel with goop in it is a lot harder to remove .
#24
J
Jonnie_S
J
Jonnie_S
I guess I got lucky by indiscriminately blowing air through the carb. But before doing that, I examined the parts very closely using an assembly microscope (I do electronics design/fab), and saw nothing. If there was something in there, it wasn't in the jets' orifices. Maybe something in the passage between the idle jet and the throttle body??? Anyway, runs perfectly now.
#25
B
BMS
B
BMS
B&S 40N877 engine is surging most noticably at idle and low speed, but even at high speed it does not sound right. Sounds a bit rough.
Mower has less than 30 hours on it. 2 years old.
New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs (old ones looked fine)
Fuel pump seems to work fine. I see fuel trickling into the filter. Crank the engine with the pump output line disconnected and gas spurts out pretty vigorously.
Just for kicks I gravity fed fuel from a container - no difference.
Opened up the carburetor - it looked perfectly clean. Blew out the orifices and re-assembled. This carb has a single emulsion tube, not the 2-tube version I've seen in several youtube videos.
Governor linkage and springs all good.
Fresh fuel (although it is 10% ethanol).
Read lots of posts here and in other forums about engine surging and I'm running out of things to check.
The mower runs ok at high speed and is perfectly usable, but just doesn't sound like its running smoothly. At its lowest speed it lopes badly, almost stalls.
Its still under warranty but a hassle to bring it to a JD service center. Plus, if they determine it just needed a "tune-up", i.e. normal maintenance, that's not covered.
Any ideas?
-Jon Usually when they surge, it could be a plugged passage in the carb, Soaking or sonic cleaning works the best, you did not post the Type or code number from the engine, most of those 40 cubic inch engines have a Nikki carb on them, If the static timing of the governor is correct, it usually will be the carb that is the problem making them surge and run rough, and yes, they had their share of problems with those Nikki carbs, those O-rings can be a real problem, B&S only warranties the carbs from 90 days of DOP. Make sure your intake gaskets are good, they use either a red square O-ring or a gasket. The approx. price on those carbs is 212$, Without the Type and code i cannot tell you the correct carb P/N. Just so you know, I have been a B&S dealer for 50 years. Plus, if i remember right, there is no carb Rebuild kits for them, {Nikki} all parts are sold individually. I Hope this helps; My Business E-mail is stanbms@msn.com
#26
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
Yes that seems to be a problem with the larger Kawasaki engines. They vibrate too much. Had one do that wore the housing out. Luckily we had a junk engine with a good carb on it.I got one commercial customer that done worn two choke shafts and one throttle shaft on Kawasaki v-twin with dual barrel Nikki carburetors. These carburetors run around $600 to replace. I have manage to save all three by installing bushings and new shafts. And I also have seen other carburetors too that have the same wear.