Z-Turn crapped out while cutting

rfc2005

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I was cutting on my z-turn mower when it suddenly crapped out. The problem was for whatever reason (I think from bouncing up and down from my rough land made by our horse) the metal seat bottom made contact and burnt through the cable boots and shorted out the machine somewhere.
I can only jump start at the starter,but dies out as soon as I disengage the brake handle.
I do get the steady noise (like when you try to start a vehicle with a dead battery) in the solenoid when trying to start.

Here is a list of what I troubleshooted with no results on starting.
Pulled all safety switches, key switch,pto switch, relays and the 4 post solenoid off and all bench tested ok.
Battery had neg cable fused (actually looked like it was soldered to the terminal and the Pos cable boot burnt melted on terminal. Cleaned the cable ends and post like new and put new cable boots on.
Battery Charged 12.55. I used a 12 V Test Light,getting 12V to solenoid top and bottom Pos post, nothing from solenoid to starter, even when I completely turn key switch all the way to start. I have (2) 20 amp fuses that make test light come on when I turn Key to on position, but with the key is in off position only one fuse lights up the tester. Both fuses are good and did not blow when the tractor stopped..
Did continuity tests on all cables,all show continuity.
Can't figure out what's left to test, any help will be much appreciated
Thanks, Bob.
 
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Fish

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Rapid clicking could be a burned or corroded connection that is weak. Test at night in the dark, look for sparks when trying to crank. Look at the ground connection.
 

rfc2005

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Thanks, I did clean and I sanded all connections, saw no evidence of burning. I will give that a try.
 

slomo

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Might get a full sized tractor to mow farm fields. Machines called mowers will fall apart from all the bouncing and rough terrain.

slomo
 

rfc2005

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Checked it in the dark while trying to start in run position,no sparks anywhere. I just get that sound when you try to start a vehicle with dead Battery, not really a constant clicking noise as I stated in my post. I since edited that part as not to confuse anyone about the sound
 

rfc2005

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Problem solved. New Battery did it. Battery was showing 12.55 when I originally did test, but after I was all done with testing the other possibilities I tested the battery again with a 11. reading. Did a load test and failed.
Not sure if I am right, but I think the negative post in the battery went bad when it made contact with the metal bottom of seat. In any event I can now get back to cutting.
 

slomo

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Glad to hear you are mowing again.

If you can hold multi-meter probes while cranking the engine, look for a voltage reading above 11 volts dc. Higher the better of course. Anything under 11 is bad. Remove the spark plug so the engine doesn't fire. Just want it to crank under the starter/engine load.

A battery at rest should read 12.6 vdc or higher. 12.6 is fully charged. Course the load test above is the final word on a good battery. This work in cars and trucks too.

slomo
 
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