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YTH24V48 MOWER FLOODING wont start

#1

A

Alistar1964

I have just started experiencing an issue with the mower flooding. Long story short is it would not start, would turn over fine and sometimes try to start but just wouldn't. Replaced fuel filter plugs changed oil new air filter and still nothing. So went a littler farther and removed the bowl from the carburetor and wiped it out even tho it was shinny, full of gas and no debris. Put it back on the mower and the thing fired up so quick scared the crap out of the wife because it had not started that quick in forever and she shut it off instantly. Tried again and fired right up just as quick as before. I was like this is awesome problem fixed!!! WRONG. After replacing the covers and hood went to start it and back to same old thing. Next day wont start so remove the bowl again clean replace reinstall and boom starts!! Turn it off and it wont start same as before. Remove bowl and wipe again reinstall and BOOM starts up. Let it run a few minutes and try to engage blade but boggs down and dies. Guess what it wont start again. Need a little help please willing to try about anything at this point.


#2

Brads

Brads

Ok, drain & clean the bowl and it starts right up. Not at all familiar with your mower but my best guess from what you're describing is that the needle valve in your carb is either sticking or cruddied up. (left full of gas over winter or crud in the tank will do this sometimes.) Also possible the float needs to be adjusted or is sunk maybe. Either way, the bowl will fill up with gas and flood the engine. No start. Pull the bowl, engine dries out in the process, starts right up. Problem re-occurs after sitting. Solution: clean/check needle valve & float. Hope that helps. :smile:


#3

A

Alistar1964

Brads said:
Ok, drain & clean the bowl and it starts right up. Not at all familiar with your mower but my best guess from what you're describing is that the needle valve in your carb is either sticking or cruddied up. (left full of gas over winter or crud in the tank will do this sometimes.) Also possible the float needs to be adjusted or is sunk maybe. Either way, the bowl will fill up with gas and flood the engine. No start. Pull the bowl, engine dries out in the process, starts right up. Problem re-occurs after sitting. Solution: clean/check needle valve & float. Hope that helps. :smile:
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Ok took the carb apart and it had a VERY small port stopped up so we cleaned it and put back together. Would only run if sprayed with ether. Found the float was stuck and not letting fuel in. Fixed that and it started fine but would only run at very high RPM. Starts fine now but runs too high so I may have some springs put back wrong but have no pictures to tell.


#4

Brads

Brads

Alistar1964 said:
Ok took the carb apart and it had a VERY small port stopped up so we cleaned it and put back together. Would only run if sprayed with ether. Found the float was stuck and not letting fuel in. Fixed that and it started fine but would only run at very high RPM. Starts fine now but runs too high so I may have some springs put back wrong but have no pictures to tell.
Click to expand...

Good news, keep us posted and remember, you're having fun!!! :thumbsup:


#5

A

Alistar1964

If I can get it to idle at normal speeds I would be having fun. Not sure what I did but it will not idle at low rpm just always high rpm. I am thinking of taking the carb back apart to see if something is loose. Videos I found on YouTube show outside connections are correct but the throttle plate(correct term?) will not rotate by itself back to idle position on its own but can be manually down with ease. On a positive not tho it starts like a champ!


#6

Brads

Brads

Runs real fast, no worries then! Should mow the lawn real good! :laughing: Ok, not really. Only thing I can think of is somehow the throttle return spring is hooked up wrong. Not pulling the throttle plate (correct term :smile:) closed. Suggest you check it not running and see if it's pulling the throttle plate closed. Maybe it's hooked to the right spot on the carburetor but not hooked far enough away so as to pull the spring out tight enough to closes the throttle plate? Hope that makes sense to you. Anyhoo, might be time to take a brake and come back with fresh eyes. It's amazing how that helps sometimes. Good luck and remember, you got it running! You're doing great. :thumbsup:


#7

A

Alistar1964

Brads said:
Runs real fast, no worries then! Should mow the lawn real good! :laughing: Ok, not really. Only thing I can think of is somehow the throttle return spring is hooked up wrong. Not pulling the throttle plate (correct term :smile:) closed. Suggest you check it not running and see if it's pulling the throttle plate closed. Maybe it's hooked to the right spot on the carburetor but not hooked far enough away so as to pull the spring out tight enough to closes the throttle plate? Hope that makes sense to you. Anyhoo, might be time to take a brake and come back with fresh eyes. It's amazing how that helps sometimes. Good luck and remember, you got it running! You're doing great. :thumbsup:
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Brads thank for the laugh believe it or not it helps. I have checked it running and not running with the same results. There is nothing I can see that actually pulls and makes the throttle plate stay closed only tension to pull open and no place to hook a spring anyway. Yea almost glad to be back at work to get away from it for awhile. BTW the model number is 44R8770001G1. Pulling up the parts book on Brigs and Stratton didn't help unfortunately.


#8

Brads

Brads

Ok, if the pic I'm looking at is right, the "throttle return spring" is wrapped around the throttle plate shaft where it comes out of the carburetor. Find the thing you pushed where you said "the throttle plate will not rotate by itself back to idle position on its own but can be manually down with ease.". Sorry, can't find a pic of it but it's wrapped around the shaft outside the carburetor and should be pretty self evident. The idle adjustment screw should be right over it. Fingers crossed. :smile:


#9

A

Alistar1964

I do not know if I loaded the picture correctly But you are correct with the spring description. The throttle link is what I was pushing on to get it to idle position against the idle adjustment screw

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#10

A

Alistar1964

Sorry that was the wrong picture, this is the correct one.

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#11

Brads

Brads

Yup, that spring's gotta be the problem. Probably just popped out of the hole. Should be an easy fix. :smile:


#12

A

Alistar1964

Brads said:
Yup, that spring's gotta be the problem. Probably just popped out of the hole. Should be an easy fix. :smile:
Click to expand...

The spring is not the problem it has not been moved and the throttle plate should be resting against it in the idle (low rpm) position but it does not. That is what I am having trouble figuring out now. As you can see in the picture it is resting mostly in the accelerated position but I can move the throttle plate lever by hand to the idle position but it will not stay by itself.


#13

B

bertsmobile1

Weather you moved it or the gremlins moved it the spring is in the wrong place.
It is a damping spring and goes from the governor arm to the throttle plate arm on every governed engine ever made.
It actually works like a shock adsorber .

Now governed throttle functioning 101.
The governor closes down the throttle proportional to the speed the engine is RUNNING.
The faster the engine is going, the harder it closes down the throttle.
when the engine is STOPPED, it holds the throttle wide open, not closed down against the idle stop.
That only happens when the engine is running and you have moved the throttle control to it's lowest setting

The throttle control stretches a spring which pulls the governor lever open and the governor mechanism pulls the governor lever closed, WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING.
Like a little tug o war.
he who pulls hardest wins.
When you move the throttle control it changes the balance point between the two springs and thus the revs the governor will try to maintain.

People regularly set the governor up backwards thinking that the governor will open the throttle butterfly but it actually closes it.
So you loosen off the clamp on the governor shaft rotate it in the direction that will open the throttle fully till it stops, hold it in that position and clamp the governor shaft to it in the fully opened position.
Thus when the governor shaft starts to move it will close down the throttle as it should do.


#14

A

Alistar1964

bertsmobile1 said:
Weather you moved it or the gremlins moved it the spring is in the wrong place.
It is a damping spring and goes from the governor arm to the throttle plate arm on every governed engine ever made.
It actually works like a shock adsorber .

Now governed throttle functioning 101.
The governor closes down the throttle proportional to the speed the engine is RUNNING.
The faster the engine is going, the harder it closes down the throttle.
when the engine is STOPPED, it holds the throttle wide open, not closed down against the idle stop.
That only happens when the engine is running and you have moved the throttle control to it's lowest setting

The throttle control stretches a spring which pulls the governor lever open and the governor mechanism pulls the governor lever closed, WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING.
Like a little tug o war.
he who pulls hardest wins.
When you move the throttle control it changes the balance point between the two springs and thus the revs the governor will try to maintain.

People regularly set the governor up backwards thinking that the governor will open the throttle butterfly but it actually closes it.
So you loosen off the clamp on the governor shaft rotate it in the direction that will open the throttle fully till it stops, hold it in that position and clamp the governor shaft to it in the fully opened position.
Thus when the governor shaft starts to move it will close down the throttle as it should do.
Click to expand...

bertsmobile1 thank you for the education I will try this tonight when I get home! ALL help is appreciated!!!!!


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