Fuel YTH24K48 Gas Tank Removal

[NurdBurd]

I have a fuel leak from underneath my tractor - which means I don't know exactly where the hole is. I need to remove the fender (Repair Parts Manual, 532 44 54-73 Rev.5, Page 6, Item #37). I have already removed the four bolts (Page 17, Items #8) and the two nuts (Items #6). The back half of the fender can be raised up a few inches after the removal of these six items. The front part of the fender is located underneath the Lower Dash (Page 6 again, Item #182). I removed the right side nut (Item #194), but the bolt did not fall free from the lower side of the fender. I don't understand how the fender can slide rearward unless this bolt is removed (and its partner on the left side of the Lower Dash). I can not see the four screws (Items #36), but my fingertips tell me they are there. I don't believe I could get a wrench or socket on them for removal.

Do I have to remove the four screws (Items #36) to remove the fender so I can gain access to the gas tank? Or is there some other procedure that I need to follow? I am in need of an answer quickly because the grass is already at two feet and it is still growing!

Thank you.

 

[bertsmobile1]

If you loosen the 4 bolts that hold the turret to the mower floor and the steering gear then you can jack up the rear guard high enough to slip the fuel tank out the right side.
To remove the rear guard then you do have to fully remove the turret which includes all of the controls & electrics.

I do a couple of JD 100 series a season & they are identical body wise..

Naturally you need to remove the wheel.
Some will come out easier to the left than right
To pull the tank outthe back the guard has to come off and that is a lot of work. Not difficult just a long time.

 

[NurdBurd]

Re: YTH24K48 Gas Tank Removal
If you loosen the 4 bolts that hold the turret to the mower floor and the steering gear then you can jack up the rear guard high enough to slip the fuel tank out the right side.

(I do not know what the 'turret' is. I do not know what the 'mower floor' is. I do not know what 'steering gear' you are referring to. I do not know what the 'rear guard' is. Which 4 bolts are you referring to?
Is the 'turret' the Dash (Page 6, Item #5) and the Dash Lower (Item #182)? Is the 'mower floor' the front part of the Fender (Item #37) that is located under the Dash Lower?
Do you have a copy of the Repair Parts Manual 532 44 54-73 Rev. 5?
Please remember that I am not a professional lawn tractor person. I am a 72-year-old retiree who is trying to help his daughter keep her 2 1/2 acres cleanly mowed. And right now I am about three weeks behind.
Thank you.)

To remove the rear guard then you do have to fully remove the turret which includes all of the controls & electrics.

I do a couple of JD 100 series a season & they are identical body wise..

Naturally you need to remove the wheel.
Some will come out easier to the left than right
To pull the tank outthe back the guard has to come off and that is a lot of work. Not difficult just a long time.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Yes you have to remove the 4 bolts item 6 on page 36.
You also will need to remove the steering wheel as shown on page 12
After removing the wheel , part 1 and the adapter part 21 you can then remove the retaining clip part 64.
This will allow the shaft steering part 16 to drop down.

To get better access to the four bolts part 36 page 6 some times you have to remove the support part 175 by removing 4 or 5 of the screws, part 176
You will them be able to lift the fender part 37 high enough to slide the tank out to the right.
The lever on the left usually can stay in place but you have to jiggle it around a bit

Sorry if the first reply was confusing but I speak REAL ENGLISH not AMERICAN.
If you want to completely remove the Fender then all of the wires , Switches & levers have to be removed from the dash and then the dash itself removed.
You also have to remove the pedal part 210 on page 8 and to do that you have to also remove the brake , part 64 also on page 8.
Part 210 used to bolt on but to cut costs so you can buy the mower cheaper it is now one piece so all of the foot controls have to come off, which is why you just raise the fender high enough to slide the tank out sideways.

You may also need to remove the pin part 160 on page 8 so you can side the rod brake, part 35 out of the latch part 167
And similarly with the other part on the cruise control rod , part 209.
Some times the dash will go high enough with them in place & some times it won't.
If it is a Californian compliant model you will also have to remove both the fuel line & vapour line shown as part 28 on page 10.

The whole thing is a lot easier if you can hoist the FENDER up with a pulley or similar from above the mower.
I have a yard crane & 2 engine cranes I use for doing these jobs.
A right royal PIA but good money as the charge out rate is 3.5 hours.