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YTH2448 won’t move
#1
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
Hello all
I have a Husqvarna YTH2448. Seem to mow just fine shut it off and now won’t move. Replaced drive belt and it temporarily worked. (Just one time before I put the deck back on). You can move them mower like the hydro is not engaged. The pull pin for this moves and the pivot lever on the Trang moves (but not much) seems like the transmission is not engaged. If I manually move the engagement lever while running and in gear to move it makes a little gear noise like it’s trying to engage. Any ideas.
I have a Husqvarna YTH2448. Seem to mow just fine shut it off and now won’t move. Replaced drive belt and it temporarily worked. (Just one time before I put the deck back on). You can move them mower like the hydro is not engaged. The pull pin for this moves and the pivot lever on the Trang moves (but not much) seems like the transmission is not engaged. If I manually move the engagement lever while running and in gear to move it makes a little gear noise like it’s trying to engage. Any ideas.
#2
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
A little more info please
1) just bought it or owned from new ( or 2nd had a long time ago)
2) how may hours ?
3) where did you get the belt from & what was the brand / part number ( if you still have the sleeve )
4) did you remove either of the rear wheels when you replaced the belt ?
5) if you jack up the rear so the wheels are clear of the ground then start the engine & engage the drive do the wheels turn in the same direction , opposite direction, one moves & the other does not . If the latter, have a close look at the wheel that does not move, is the axel moving ?
Get back with that info & we should be able to sort you out pretty quick .
1) just bought it or owned from new ( or 2nd had a long time ago)
2) how may hours ?
3) where did you get the belt from & what was the brand / part number ( if you still have the sleeve )
4) did you remove either of the rear wheels when you replaced the belt ?
5) if you jack up the rear so the wheels are clear of the ground then start the engine & engage the drive do the wheels turn in the same direction , opposite direction, one moves & the other does not . If the latter, have a close look at the wheel that does not move, is the axel moving ?
Get back with that info & we should be able to sort you out pretty quick .
#4
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
1) just bought it or owned from new ( or 2nd had a long time ago) owned 10 years 2nd owner. Trouble free
2) how may hours ? 250
3) where did you get the belt from & what was the brand / part number ( if you still have the sleeve )Amazon
4) did you remove either of the rear wheels when you replaced the belt ?no
5) if you jack up the rear so the wheels are clear of the ground then start the engine & engage the drive do the wheels turn in the same direction , opposite direction, one moves & the other does not . If the latter, have a close look at the wheel that does not move, is the axel moving ? Rotate same direction but you can make them go backwards but if you touch them they stop. There is a shaft on the bottom right of the gear box that is turning and it goes forward and backward. I have videos but can’t seem to upload them. Uploading to you tube will send links when they are live. Thanks for your help
2) how may hours ? 250
3) where did you get the belt from & what was the brand / part number ( if you still have the sleeve )Amazon
4) did you remove either of the rear wheels when you replaced the belt ?no
5) if you jack up the rear so the wheels are clear of the ground then start the engine & engage the drive do the wheels turn in the same direction , opposite direction, one moves & the other does not . If the latter, have a close look at the wheel that does not move, is the axel moving ? Rotate same direction but you can make them go backwards but if you touch them they stop. There is a shaft on the bottom right of the gear box that is turning and it goes forward and backward. I have videos but can’t seem to upload them. Uploading to you tube will send links when they are live. Thanks for your help
#6
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Your belt should have this number, Husqvarna 532178138. When you stop both wheels does the fan on the transaxle keep turning?
#7
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
Yes and it makes a high pitch squeal. The videos show what we have going onYour belt should have this number, Husqvarna 532178138. When you stop both wheels does the fan on the transaxle keep turning?
#8
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
Yes and it makes a high pitch squeal. The videos show what we have going on
Replacement Drive Belt for Craftsman Husqvarna 178138 532178138
#9
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If both wheels are stopped and it squeals I would then assume that the transmission fan is not turning? Am I correct? If I am then one of three things is occurring. Wrong size belt, too loose. If you purchased on Fleabay or AutoScam this is a definite possibility. Bad tensioner pulleys or tensioner arm not moving freely. Belt not routed properly.
#10
StarTech
StarTech
And there three different drive belts for the YTH2448 series. This is why you need to first look parts using the actual model number off the serial tag and it is not the YTH 2448 number. It the number that start with 96 as there are 12 versions of this mower.
And that noise to me does not sound like a belt squeal but more like an internal transaxle problem.
And that noise to me does not sound like a belt squeal but more like an internal transaxle problem.
#11
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
I’m not totally sure what you mean. There’s a video above that show the wheels off the ground and turning, but I can touch with my foot and it goes backwards. When it’s on the ground it doesn’t move.Your belt should have this number, Husqvarna 532178138. When you stop both wheels does the fan on the transaxle keep turning?
#12
T
Triton192
See this video it show fan turning the shaft coming out of the side of the case but can easily stop slight wheel turning with your hand.
T
Triton192
The fan continues to turn when the wheels are not. The belt is tight. The squealing seems to be coming from the hydrostatic drive.If both wheels are stopped and it squeals I would then assume that the transmission fan is not turning? Am I correct? If I am then one of three things is occurring. Wrong size belt, too loose. If you purchased on Fleabay or AutoScam this is a definite possibility. Bad tensioner pulleys or tensioner arm not moving freely. Belt not routed properly.
See this video it show fan turning the shaft coming out of the side of the case but can easily stop slight wheel turning with your hand.
#13
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
I’m thinking you are correct. I did take the belt number off the hood and bought that belt albeit an Amazon non name brand but it fits very well. The tell tale for me is when the mower is not in neutral mode in the transaxle I can still roll it. Before this issue I had to diengage the transaxle to move it.And there three different drive belts for the YTH2448 series. This is why you need to first look parts using the actual model number off the serial tag and it is not the YTH 2448 number. It the number that start with 96 as there are 12 versions of this mower.
And that noise to me does not sound like a belt squeal but more like an internal transaxle problem.
#14
T
Triton192
2) how may hours ? 250
3) where did you get the belt from & what was the brand / part number ( if you still have the sleeve )Amazon
4) did you remove either of the rear wheels when you replaced the belt ?no
5) if you jack up the rear so the wheels are clear of the ground then start the engine & engage the drive do the wheels turn in the same direction , opposite direction, one moves & the other does not . If the latter, have a close look at the wheel that does not move, is the axel moving ? Rotate same direction but you can make them go backwards but if you touch them they stop. There is a shaft on the bottom right of the gear box that is turning and it goes forward and backward. I have videos but can’t seem to upload them. Uploading to you tube will send links when they are live. Thanks for your help
T
Triton192
1) just bought it or owned from new ( or 2nd had a long time ago) owned 10 years 2nd owner. Trouble freeA little more info please
1) just bought it or owned from new ( or 2nd had a long time ago)
2) how may hours ?
3) where did you get the belt from & what was the brand / part number ( if you still have the sleeve )
4) did you remove either of the rear wheels when you replaced the belt ?
5) if you jack up the rear so the wheels are clear of the ground then start the engine & engage the drive do the wheels turn in the same direction , opposite direction, one moves & the other does not . If the latter, have a close look at the wheel that does not move, is the axel moving ?
Get back with that info & we should be able to sort you out pretty quick .
2) how may hours ? 250
3) where did you get the belt from & what was the brand / part number ( if you still have the sleeve )Amazon
4) did you remove either of the rear wheels when you replaced the belt ?no
5) if you jack up the rear so the wheels are clear of the ground then start the engine & engage the drive do the wheels turn in the same direction , opposite direction, one moves & the other does not . If the latter, have a close look at the wheel that does not move, is the axel moving ? Rotate same direction but you can make them go backwards but if you touch them they stop. There is a shaft on the bottom right of the gear box that is turning and it goes forward and backward. I have videos but can’t seem to upload them. Uploading to you tube will send links when they are live. Thanks for your help
#15
B
bertsmobile1
Get your hands on the fan / pulley and a good strong torch on the input shaft or other hand on the top of the shaft
If the fan turns but the shaft does not, it has stripped out
A reasonably common fault
B
bertsmobile1
SO basically you have no power from the transmission1) just bought it or owned from new ( or 2nd had a long time ago) owned 10 years 2nd owner. Trouble free
2) how may hours ? 250
3) where did you get the belt from & what was the brand / part number ( if you still have the sleeve )Amazon
4) did you remove either of the rear wheels when you replaced the belt ?no
5) if you jack up the rear so the wheels are clear of the ground then start the engine & engage the drive do the wheels turn in the same direction , opposite direction, one moves & the other does not . If the latter, have a close look at the wheel that does not move, is the axel moving ? Rotate same direction but you can make them go backwards but if you touch them they stop. There is a shaft on the bottom right of the gear box that is turning and it goes forward and backward. I have videos but can’t seem to upload them. Uploading to you tube will send links when they are live. Thanks for your help
Get your hands on the fan / pulley and a good strong torch on the input shaft or other hand on the top of the shaft
If the fan turns but the shaft does not, it has stripped out
A reasonably common fault
#16
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
SO basically you have no power from the transmission
Get your hands on the fan / pulley and a good strong torch on the input shaft or other hand on the top of the shaft
If the fan turns but the shaft does not, it has stripped out
A reasonably common fault
#17
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
To
Me
It seems like the power is going into the transaxle not coming out. If you watch this video the fan and pulley are turning. There’s a shaft on the right side of the transaxle the moves forward and backward depending on shift position. Wheels have nothing to them.
Me
It seems like the power is going into the transaxle not coming out. If you watch this video the fan and pulley are turning. There’s a shaft on the right side of the transaxle the moves forward and backward depending on shift position. Wheels have nothing to them.
#18
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The input pulleys are often splined
These strip out
We ask you to do tests because we need to rule out more common problems
So please do the tests as requested or all that you will get is guesses
These strip out
We ask you to do tests because we need to rule out more common problems
So please do the tests as requested or all that you will get is guesses
#19
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
Will do but I’m a little confused when you say “get a good strong torch on the input shaft”. I assume you want me to try and turn the fan/pulley and try to prevent shaft from turning?The input pulleys are often splined
These strip out
We ask you to do tests because we need to rule out more common problems
So please do the tests as requested or all that you will get is guesses
#20
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The fan & the pulley are bolted together
that assembly sits on the input shaft
What you are trying to ss is if the the pulley is in fact turning the shaft on a 1:1 ratio
There are lots of ways to do it and the exact method I use depends upon how much space my fat fingers have to work in
So some times I put a white dot on the pulley & the shaft that align
rub=n the tranny for a couple of minutes under high load ( low engine revs full pedal in both F & R ) then check the dots still align
Some times I can get a pair of pliers on the shaft under the pulley and while holding the shaft try to turn the pulley
Some times I just put my finger on top of the shaft and feel for the shaft turning in sync with the fan
Your symptions would usually be 1 of the following which for me are roughly in this order
1) belt failure ( includes clutch idlers & springs )
2) pulley stripped on the input shaft
3) wear in the hydro controls ( includes debris build up around the transmission )
4) worn out transmission
The other 2 are loss of hydro fluid which is usually evident and owners omitting to replace the drive key in the rear axels ( all except MTD )
that assembly sits on the input shaft
What you are trying to ss is if the the pulley is in fact turning the shaft on a 1:1 ratio
There are lots of ways to do it and the exact method I use depends upon how much space my fat fingers have to work in
So some times I put a white dot on the pulley & the shaft that align
rub=n the tranny for a couple of minutes under high load ( low engine revs full pedal in both F & R ) then check the dots still align
Some times I can get a pair of pliers on the shaft under the pulley and while holding the shaft try to turn the pulley
Some times I just put my finger on top of the shaft and feel for the shaft turning in sync with the fan
Your symptions would usually be 1 of the following which for me are roughly in this order
1) belt failure ( includes clutch idlers & springs )
2) pulley stripped on the input shaft
3) wear in the hydro controls ( includes debris build up around the transmission )
4) worn out transmission
The other 2 are loss of hydro fluid which is usually evident and owners omitting to replace the drive key in the rear axels ( all except MTD )
#21
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The fan & the pulley are bolted together
that assembly sits on the input shaft
What you are trying to ss is if the the pulley is in fact turning the shaft on a 1:1 ratio
There are lots of ways to do it and the exact method I use depends upon how much space my fat fingers have to work in
So some times I put a white dot on the pulley & the shaft that align
rub=n the tranny for a couple of minutes under high load ( low engine revs full pedal in both F & R ) then check the dots still align
Some times I can get a pair of pliers on the shaft under the pulley and while holding the shaft try to turn the pulley
Some times I just put my finger on top of the shaft and feel for the shaft turning in sync with the fan
Your symptions would usually be 1 of the following which for me are roughly in this order
1) belt failure ( includes clutch idlers & springs )
2) pulley stripped on the input shaft
3) wear in the hydro controls ( includes debris build up around the transmission )
4) worn out transmission
The other 2 are loss of hydro fluid which is usually evident and owners omitting to replace the drive key in the rear axels ( all except MTD )
that assembly sits on the input shaft
What you are trying to ss is if the the pulley is in fact turning the shaft on a 1:1 ratio
There are lots of ways to do it and the exact method I use depends upon how much space my fat fingers have to work in
So some times I put a white dot on the pulley & the shaft that align
rub=n the tranny for a couple of minutes under high load ( low engine revs full pedal in both F & R ) then check the dots still align
Some times I can get a pair of pliers on the shaft under the pulley and while holding the shaft try to turn the pulley
Some times I just put my finger on top of the shaft and feel for the shaft turning in sync with the fan
Your symptions would usually be 1 of the following which for me are roughly in this order
1) belt failure ( includes clutch idlers & springs )
2) pulley stripped on the input shaft
3) wear in the hydro controls ( includes debris build up around the transmission )
4) worn out transmission
The other 2 are loss of hydro fluid which is usually evident and owners omitting to replace the drive key in the rear axels ( all except MTD )
#22
Its Me
Its Me
Triton192, that little shaft that you speak of on the right side of the transmission is the break, if it has been setting in the weather, or washed they sometimes get stuck but if your is turning you should be good, to make sure that the little buttons on it are not stuck give it a little spray with some LPS, might follow that rod that disengages the transaxle to make sure that is moving the full length, got a lot of good information from the fellows, think them through, Joe
#23
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
Thanks for the reply. I cannot get to the shaft because the casting extends up too high into the fan to enclose it. (See pic. What I can tell you is I tried to loosen the nut on the top of the pulley by holding the pulley and I couldn’t get it loose and that did not spin. Also since the shaft extending out of the right front of the housing turns I’m guessing it’s getting some drive into the tranny.
I cannot get to the shaft running from the pulley to the tranny. The casting extends up past the fan what I can tell you is I tried to loosen the nut on top of the pulley using the pulley to stop rotation and I could not get he but to move by stopping the pulley. Not sure if this gives us the info we need. Also the brake shaft that comes out of the tranny does move when it’s running and in forward or reverse. When I lock the brake the wheels won’t move so that should confirm we didn’t strip the drive keys.Triton192, that little shaft that you speak of on the right side of the transmission is the break, if it has been setting in the weather, or washed they sometimes get stuck but if your is turning you should be good, to make sure that the little buttons on it are not stuck give it a little spray with some LPS, might follow that rod that disengages the transaxle to make sure that is moving the full length, got a lot of good information from the fellows, think them through, Joe
#24
grumpyunk
grumpyunk
If you can move the mower with the 'release' lever in the normal position, not the push-me position, then internally things are either leaky or disconnected, or the release valve is not sealing properly.
Wheels on the ground, in N or any drive position, the internal motor is linked to the drive axles the wheels are mounted on. The release allows the pumping action of the motor(which SHOULD prevent movement) to be released to the sump. If the motor was leaky, with the release engaged in normal position, moving would be possible as the axles turning the motor and the pressure leaks instead of turning the pump.
With the engine running, the pump will be turning, and circulating the fluid from pump to motor and back to the pump, a closed system. Moving to any drive position opens a valve to allow pressure to work internal to the motor, alternating the pressure side to select direction.
Given that it worked fine with no slippage previously, and could not be moved with the release in normal position, the pump and motor would have to be in reasonable condition.
I think I would take a closer look at the linkage as it may have been disturbed when the belt was installed. A pump & motor can squeal if the valves are not sealed well, and are allowing leakage past something normally sealed.
tom
Wheels on the ground, in N or any drive position, the internal motor is linked to the drive axles the wheels are mounted on. The release allows the pumping action of the motor(which SHOULD prevent movement) to be released to the sump. If the motor was leaky, with the release engaged in normal position, moving would be possible as the axles turning the motor and the pressure leaks instead of turning the pump.
With the engine running, the pump will be turning, and circulating the fluid from pump to motor and back to the pump, a closed system. Moving to any drive position opens a valve to allow pressure to work internal to the motor, alternating the pressure side to select direction.
Given that it worked fine with no slippage previously, and could not be moved with the release in normal position, the pump and motor would have to be in reasonable condition.
I think I would take a closer look at the linkage as it may have been disturbed when the belt was installed. A pump & motor can squeal if the valves are not sealed well, and are allowing leakage past something normally sealed.
tom
#25
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
I purchased an OEM a belt to rule out the belt being the issue. Seems like even engage the belt is fairly loose. I checked the idler wheels and they seem fine and the tension on them seems fine too. If that doesn’t work I’m afraid it may be internal because when the transaxle is engaged I can still move the mower which based on your answer means the valves aren’t sealing. The engagement lever is a Lu type funky too, seems like I have to rock the mower sometimes to get it from engaged to disengage. Don’t have a good feeling about this.If you can move the mower with the 'release' lever in the normal position, not the push-me position, then internally things are either leaky or disconnected, or the release valve is not sealing properly.
Wheels on the ground, in N or any drive position, the internal motor is linked to the drive axles the wheels are mounted on. The release allows the pumping action of the motor(which SHOULD prevent movement) to be released to the sump. If the motor was leaky, with the release engaged in normal position, moving would be possible as the axles turning the motor and the pressure leaks instead of turning the pump.
With the engine running, the pump will be turning, and circulating the fluid from pump to motor and back to the pump, a closed system. Moving to any drive position opens a valve to allow pressure to work internal to the motor, alternating the pressure side to select direction.
Given that it worked fine with no slippage previously, and could not be moved with the release in normal position, the pump and motor would have to be in reasonable condition.
I think I would take a closer look at the linkage as it may have been disturbed when the belt was installed. A pump & motor can squeal if the valves are not sealed well, and are allowing leakage past something normally sealed.
tom
#26
grumpyunk
grumpyunk
Most of the engage/push levers have a spring to pull them so the mower will move. If the spring came loose, had the end rust off, or is blocked by bunches of clippings it will not seal. You may have dislodged a bunch of detritus onto the lever when installing the belt.
If you can't see it well enough to inspect, it may pay to remove the bolts holding the transaxle to the chassis so you can get a good look. The brake disc rotating should actually be linked to the wheels not the input shaft(pulley input) as it locks the wheels/axle from rotating via physical gears. I.e., the output of the motor turns a gear which turns the brake rotor and the axles. Lock the rotor, and the axles should be locked. The input shaft can turn in N, R and D, so, eh, having it turn the brake rotor is indicative of very little power being transferred from pump to motor to output shaft/brake disc.
tom
If you can't see it well enough to inspect, it may pay to remove the bolts holding the transaxle to the chassis so you can get a good look. The brake disc rotating should actually be linked to the wheels not the input shaft(pulley input) as it locks the wheels/axle from rotating via physical gears. I.e., the output of the motor turns a gear which turns the brake rotor and the axles. Lock the rotor, and the axles should be locked. The input shaft can turn in N, R and D, so, eh, having it turn the brake rotor is indicative of very little power being transferred from pump to motor to output shaft/brake disc.
tom
#27
T
Triton192
Manually moving the in/out gear by hand. Weird thing is when I put the new belt on and tested it worked. When I put the mower on it failed again. Taking last ditch attempt thinking maybe the belt is wrong and that’s the problem. Or your mentioned valve issue inside the transaxle
T
Triton192
It’s all cleaned up and I’mMost of the engage/push levers have a spring to pull them so the mower will move. If the spring came loose, had the end rust off, or is blocked by bunches of clippings it will not seal. You may have dislodged a bunch of detritus onto the lever when installing the belt.
If you can't see it well enough to inspect, it may pay to remove the bolts holding the transaxle to the chassis so you can get a good look. The brake disc rotating should actually be linked to the wheels not the input shaft(pulley input) as it locks the wheels/axle from rotating via physical gears. I.e., the output of the motor turns a gear which turns the brake rotor and the axles. Lock the rotor, and the axles should be locked. The input shaft can turn in N, R and D, so, eh, having it turn the brake rotor is indicative of very little power being transferred from pump to motor to output shaft/brake disc.
tom
Manually moving the in/out gear by hand. Weird thing is when I put the new belt on and tested it worked. When I put the mower on it failed again. Taking last ditch attempt thinking maybe the belt is wrong and that’s the problem. Or your mentioned valve issue inside the transaxle
#28
T
TobyU
Did you drive it around the yard without deck and then put the deck on and it stopped moving??
T
TobyU
What do you mean when you put new belt on and tested it.....it worked.It’s all cleaned up and I’m
Manually moving the in/out gear by hand. Weird thing is when I put the new belt on and tested it worked. When I put the mower on it failed again. Taking last ditch attempt thinking maybe the belt is wrong and that’s the problem. Or your mentioned valve issue inside the transaxle
Did you drive it around the yard without deck and then put the deck on and it stopped moving??
#29
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
Unfortunately not. I just put it gear it moved back and forth a very small amount. Then put mower deck on and doesn’t work again.What do you mean when you put new belt on and tested it.....it worked.
Did you drive it around the yard without deck and then put the deck on and it stopped moving??
#30
T
Triton192
T
Triton192
And the deck is off again and still doesn’t workUnfortunately not. I just put it gear it moved back and forth a very small amount. Then put mower deck on and doesn’t work again.
#31
S
smallenginerepairs
S
smallenginerepairs
Sounds like your gears inside the transaxle are a little stripped. There should be no grinding noise coming from the transaxle.Here are the links to videos