I have a Timecutter 75755 50" with the mulching kit. Start of new year did a tuned-up on the mower and added new blades. Great cut and mower running like new. Few days after the first cut I noticed the grass had yellow tips, meaning the new blades were not sharp. Remove blades and sharpen them. Next cut cycle grass looks great. Few days passed and again the grass still coming up with yellow tips. Before all of this started the old blades I never seen yellow tips in my yard. Anyone have this happen before if so, what was the fix. Tks
Yellow grass tips?
- Thread starter retired92
- Start date
New blades are never sharp. They typically have paint all over. These are not double edge shaving blades. Can you mow with new blades, yes.
Most people think shining the bevel with some magic wonder tool of the week grinder is sharp enough. Once the bevel shines they are done. Never even checking the actual cutting edge. Probably massively rolled over and won't cut cheese. All this from excessive material being removed by some over aggressive bench grinder and ultra low grit number abrasive.
If you have one mower, use a new hand file. Then get a precision grade food scale for balancing. Use a small block to get the blade at an even height as your scale. So one blade end ON the scale, other end on the block balancing in the horizontal axis. Flip the blade around for the opposite blade end weight. You can balance the blade down to 1 gram or less. No other balancing tool can match this for cost and results. Food scales are cheap.
I have 5 Snapper mowers. I DO use a 4.5" hand grinder. Also a 120 grit FLAP WHEEL. Not a cut off or grinding wheel. Never press down with the grinder. Let the wheel do ALL the work. Never more aggressive than 120 grit. You want slow material removal to keep the balance in control. Concentrate on BEVEL ANGLE.
Most people think shining the bevel with some magic wonder tool of the week grinder is sharp enough. Once the bevel shines they are done. Never even checking the actual cutting edge. Probably massively rolled over and won't cut cheese. All this from excessive material being removed by some over aggressive bench grinder and ultra low grit number abrasive.
If you have one mower, use a new hand file. Then get a precision grade food scale for balancing. Use a small block to get the blade at an even height as your scale. So one blade end ON the scale, other end on the block balancing in the horizontal axis. Flip the blade around for the opposite blade end weight. You can balance the blade down to 1 gram or less. No other balancing tool can match this for cost and results. Food scales are cheap.
I have 5 Snapper mowers. I DO use a 4.5" hand grinder. Also a 120 grit FLAP WHEEL. Not a cut off or grinding wheel. Never press down with the grinder. Let the wheel do ALL the work. Never more aggressive than 120 grit. You want slow material removal to keep the balance in control. Concentrate on BEVEL ANGLE.
Also if you think about it, trying to mulch AND get a clean cut doesn't work. Simply side sling and get the clippings out of the cutting edges way. Be like using a clogged up double edge razor with a heavy beard growth.
Best looking lawn cutting is the old school bagging method.
Mulching chokes the turf of air (oxygen), water and nutrients (fertilizers). Thatch layer is not good for grass growth.
Best looking lawn cutting is the old school bagging method.
Mulching chokes the turf of air (oxygen), water and nutrients (fertilizers). Thatch layer is not good for grass growth.