Export thread

2002 Splitter model 24ae586b352
Briggs Engine model 205412
This log splitter didn’t come with a throttle lever. It runs fine I am just curious why it wouldn’t come from the factory installed.
Thanks.

Could be to meet emission standards. If it is a fixed speed engine it only has to meet emission standards at full throttle, but if the speed is variable has to meet standards throughout the entire range of speed.

Never seen one without a throttle lever. Are you sure it didn't come with one?

I got a tamper in a couple of month ago, where the throttle lever was cut off (behind the plastic cover) and silver soldered wide open.

yeah it's got the cut out next to the fuel shutoff for it, but they probably just use the same plastic to save $

Why would you want to adjust the throttle speed?
It is meant to run at that speed.

For the same reason you don't rev the crap out of your car engine when you first start it cold. I always set my throttles a but higher than idle for starting and after a minute or so throttle up for use.
I also never use my wood splitter at full speed. I never split monster wood that needs that much power and it's a waste of gas and more wear and tear on the engine.

Chris from Ontario said:

For the same reason you don't rev the crap out of your car engine when you first start it cold. I always set my throttles a but higher than idle for starting and after a minute or so throttle up for use.
I also never use my wood splitter at full speed. I never split monster wood that needs that much power and it's a waste of gas and more wear and tear on the engine.

Click to expand...

Chris
Running a lower than specified speeds can do a lot of damage to the hydraulic system
In all of the log splitters I have seen the hydraulic pump is just barely big enough to run the press
Running at less than full speed damages the pump and the valves because the pump will either be running under pressure or at a lower oil flow rate.
If it is a hydro style pump, same as on a mower, and a lot are because they are a lot cheaper than a gear or vane pump the you do a lot of damage to the pump.

Chris from Ontario said:

For the same reason you don't rev the crap out of your car engine when you first start it cold.

Click to expand...

Your idea of starting at low engine speed on a water-cooled engine makes some sense. But if you are running a modern multi-viscosity engine oil (especially in an air cooled engine that warms very, very quickly) then lubrication is almost instantaneous. The days of engine warm-up died in the 1970's.

bertsmobile1 said:

Chris
Running a lower than specified speeds can do a lot of damage to the hydraulic system
In all of the log splitters I have seen the hydraulic pump is just barely big enough to run the press
Running at less than full speed damages the pump and the valves because the pump will either be running under pressure or at a lower oil flow rate.
If it is a hydro style pump, same as on a mower, and a lot are because they are a lot cheaper than a gear or vane pump the you do a lot of damage to the pump.

Click to expand...

From what I can tell, it's a gear type pump. 17.5 GPM running a 30 ton cylinder. I'm aware of running the lawnmower hydro's at lower rpm's and don't do that.

Born2Mow said:

Your idea of starting at low engine speed on a water-cooled engine makes some sense. But if you are running a modern multi-viscosity engine oil (especially in an air cooled engine that warms very, very quickly) then lubrication is almost instantaneous. The days of engine warm-up died in the 1970's.

Click to expand...

I have a Craftsman 18 hp horizontally opposed lawnmower that I bought in the early ninties that I estimate has over 3,000 hours on it. It still works and I use it occasionally to cut the grass but I've replaced it with a John Deere just because I wanted something newer and was tired of having to weld the frame back up. I always started it at a bit higher than idle rpm's then bumped it up a bit to move to where I would start to cut. Then after engaging the blades would bring it up to full throttle. This is a gear driven mower.

It still doesn't smoke or burn any oil and I've always used the straight 30 weight oil they recommended. I've read before that 1,000 hours is what you can expect out of an air cooled engine so either Briggs built this one really good or what I've been doing is working. I've been doing this all my life and I'm 61 now. The only time I don't is because I can't by design, like my generators and pressure washer.

I'm not trying to be argumentative, just passing on what I believe has worked for me for many years with no apparent downside.

Maintenance is key.
I know several people who have older Kawasaki Mules (with the single cylinder Air cooled engines) with 3 or 4 thousand hours.

I have a tiller without a throttle control, as well as a logsplitter.

It is not needed.

Any lawn mower is designed to run at full throttle as well.

Plus I believe air cooled engines cool better at higher RPMS.

You can always let it run for a few minutes at high idle before you start splitting.

I have never been in the "warm up" or "cool off" camp.
Just start it and go, turn it off when you are done.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Maintenance is key.
I know several people who have older Kawasaki Mules (with the single cylinder Air cooled engines) with 3 or 4 thousand hours.

Click to expand...

Exactly. My oil is usually just starting to turn a bit brown by the time I change it. All my stuff is kept indoors too and never used or left out in the rain.