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XT2 Engine Pulley Removal

#1

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

Hi All,

Trying to get this engine pulley off so I can replace the drive belt and that sucker is stuck on there pretty good. Any tips on how to remove? I've been trying with a 3 jaw puller but am afraid I'll bend the pulley.

Model
CC XT2 131QA1CQ010


Engine Pully.JPG


#2

StarTech

StarTech

You try unbolting the engine and see if you can move it around enough the get the belt off and on. Otherwise it is likely you will need to use heat and pull the pulley off destroying the pulley to get it off. CC is bad not to use any anti seize on the crankshafts and the pulleys rust on the crankshaft.


#3

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

StarTech said:
You try unbolting the engine and see if you can move it around enough the get the belt off and on. Otherwise it is likely you will need to use heat and pull the pulley off destroying the pulley to get it off. CC is bad not to use any anti seize on the crankshafts and the pulleys rust on the crankshaft.
Click to expand...
Thanks StarTech. I'm probably going to have to go heat and puller route as I'm not feeling unbolting the engine. Additionally, even with my light use of the jaw puller I noticed I did in fact already bend it a bit so I just ordered a new pulley and plan to do it right with anti seize once I get it off. Cheers.


#4

S

slomo

Spray it down every day for a couple weeks. Use your favorite penetrating lube of choice. This is the only way these type lubes work. If that doesn't help, heat, air hammers and puller time.


#5

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

slomo said:
Spray it down every day for a couple weeks. Use your favorite penetrating lube of choice. This is the only way these type lubes work. If that doesn't help, heat, air hammers and puller time.
Click to expand...
Thanks slomo!


#6

S

SeniorCitizen

if heat is applied don't heat the hub but heat the outer parameter of the pulley allowing the torch to reach the hub on occasion . The idea is to draw the hub from the shaft without heating the hub .


#7

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

SeniorCitizen said:
if heat is applied don't heat the hub but heat the outer parameter of the pulley allowing the torch to reach the hub on occasion . The idea is to draw the hub from the shaft without heating the hub .
Click to expand...
Great tip. Thanks!


#8

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

I have done a bunch of these types by MTD. Do yourself a favor and unbolt the engine. If you heat it enough to get it off you will probably damage the lower seal. The hacks will bend the 3 belt guides but that just proves they are hacks. The pulley is paper thin so any prying ruins them. MTD uses that same crap pulley and stamped guides on lots of different makes and models. If you have already buggered the pulley be prepared to remove the engine to get it off. I did one last year where the pulley was worn out and needed changed. Wound up removing the engine and drilling a series of holes in a line and the splitting it off with a chisel along the holes. Broke a thread rod on a bearing separator trying to get it off.


#9

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

Hammermechanicman said:
I have done a bunch of these types by MTD. Do yourself a favor and unbolt the engine. If you heat it enough to get it off you will probably damage the lower seal. The hacks will bend the 3 belt guides but that just proves they are hacks. The pulley is paper thin so any prying ruins them. MTD uses that same crap pulley and stamped guides on lots of different makes and models. If you have already buggered the pulley be prepared to remove the engine to get it off. I did one last year where the pulley was worn out and needed changed. Wound up removing the engine and drilling a series of holes in a line and the splitting it off with a chisel along the holes. Broke a thread rod on a bearing separator trying to get it off.
Click to expand...
Ugh. Yeah the pulley is already bent so it needs to come off. I've been drenching it with PB which I'm going to keep hitting it with until the new pulley arrives. A post above recommended heating the pulley and not the hub so I'm going to try that and also hit it with an air hammer/chisel to see if I can break it free from the rust. If all else fails I guess I'll have to remove the engine but that's a last resort. Thanks for all the info provided. Cheers.


#10

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

slomo said:
Spray it down every day for a couple weeks. Use your favorite penetrating lube of choice. This is the only way these type lubes work. If that doesn't help, heat, air hammers and puller time.
Click to expand...
Since you probably don’t have a couple weeks, put the puller on it and destroy the pulley and install new one. Can also use an air hammer to help remove pulley. Option two, bend the tabs, install belt, bend tabs back into place. The “hacks” bend the tabs and don’t bend them back into place.


#11

StarTech

StarTech

Just be aware when heating it usually takes more than a propane bottle torch. Here I use a ACE/OX torch to quickly heat the hub to expand it. This quick heating only slowly transfers to the crankshaft so work as quickly as you can. A propane torch just heats too slowly and the crankshaft will heat sink it and will expand just as much.

Since this is a MTD rider it is best to remove the engine as the engine deck tabs are usually in the way of most pullers. Here I use bearing separator puller, heat, and an impact to remove these stuck on pulleys. I have yet to heat damage a seal; of course, I have experience in doing this by having to remove many pulleys over the years.

As for penetrating fluid I will be trying a new one in a week or so that claims to work a lot better than PB Blaster. Only testing will prove if this is true or not so I not mentioning the product by name until I get to try it myself. I already got one project to try it on.


#12

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando said:
Hi All,

Trying to get this engine pulley off so I can replace the drive belt and that sucker is stuck on there pretty good. Any tips on how to remove? I've been trying with a 3 jaw puller but am afraid I'll bend the pulley.

Model
CC XT2 131QA1CQ010


View attachment 69900
Click to expand...

Update: I was able to remove the pulley after soaking the pulley (from the top) with PB Blaster daily for 3 days and then using heat, air hammer and 3 jaw puller. Completely destroyed the pulley but no harm done to the seals or shaft. I sanded the rust off the shaft with emery cloth and generously added anti-seize to prevent this in the future.

Lessons learned: For anyone with the same issue I would recommend not messing with it at all and just remove the engine bolts and lifting the engine a bit to thread the belt on (StarTech recommended this but I already bent the pulley). Youtuber "Individualized Repair" has a video showing how to do it and looks a heck a lot easier than all the shenanigan's I went thru to get the pully off.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in the tips and tricks on how to do this. Cheers.


#13

D

ddbtdd

CubbyCommando said:
Hi All,

Trying to get this engine pulley off so I can replace the drive belt and that sucker is stuck on there pretty good. Any tips on how to remove? I've been trying with a 3 jaw puller but am afraid I'll bend the pulley.

Model
CC XT2 131QA1CQ010


View attachment 69900
Click to expand...
Why would you need to remove the pulley to replace the belt? If you push in the brake and then lock down your parking brake, there should be enough slack in the belt for it to come off. I've been there and done that.


#14

B

Bob Leistner

There is such a tool as a pulley puller and I am surprised that everyone of you don't own a couple. They look very much like a bearing puller. They almost always make short work of removing pulleys of most any size that we work with.


#15

S

Steven65

You talking the electric clutch! I do know you know enough to remove that bolt up inside. Before you take bolt all the way out, Hit on wrench etc and push down on pully at top with whatever u can find. Wood is good lol. Mine will pop down everytime.


#16

S

Steven65

If don't work, start, warn up mower if it runs. Try again.


#17

K

kjonxx

air hammer, turn, air hammer turn till one full revolution of eng usually works.


#18

S

Steven65

I say.. Let bolt a little loose.. Not too far. Tap with hammer and with a pry bar or wood at top pulley usuaually will drop down. Is stuck with that "key". I was wrong before. Make sure you do it cold. But if that doesn't work, I have got some of them loose when I let them run a while.


#19

J

Johner

Lot of time the pully's hang up on the key. They jam up putting pully's on. As one surjection drill along the keyway and split along the key it will avoid ruining the shaft The air hammer will help a lot.


#20

H

hlw49

Get them in all the time where some genuis used a pry bar between the pully and the belt guide tabs. Then you have to get it off. Drill holes in the pulley and use a harmonic balance puller run bolts through the puller and the holes in the pulley and put nuts on the top of the pulley. I put an allen head bolt in the crank for the puller bolt and get them off this way.


#21

V

v4n5b1

I had the same problem. I ended up cutting it off with the angle grinder


#22

G

Gord Baker

CubbyCommando said:
Hi All,

Trying to get this engine pulley off so I can replace the drive belt and that sucker is stuck on there pretty good. Any tips on how to remove? I've been trying with a 3 jaw puller but am afraid I'll bend the pulley.

Model
CC XT2 131QA1CQ010


View attachment 69900
Click to expand...
I am quite sure you can replace the Drive Belt without removing that Pulley.


#23

R

RevB

StarTech said:
Just be aware when heating it usually takes more than a propane bottle torch. Here I use a ACE/OX torch to quickly heat the hub to expand it. This quick heating only slowly transfers to the crankshaft so work as quickly as you can. A propane torch just heats too slowly and the crankshaft will heat sink it and will expand just as much.

Since this is a MTD rider it is best to remove the engine as the engine deck tabs are usually in the way of most pullers. Here I use bearing separator puller, heat, and an impact to remove these stuck on pulleys. I have yet to heat damage a seal; of course, I have experience in doing this by having to remove many pulleys over the years.

As for penetrating fluid I will be trying a new one in a week or so that claims to work a lot better than PB Blaster. Only testing will prove if this is true or not so I not mentioning the product by name until I get to try it myself. I already got one project to try it on.
Click to expand...
Acetone and ATF.


#24

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

Gord Baker said:
I am quite sure you can replace the Drive Belt without removing that Pulley.
Click to expand...
Not on this model. It has guides around the pulley that are part of the frame and won't allow it. Having said that you can do this without removing the pulley by unbolting the engine and lifting it a bit to thread the belt on. My pulley was bent so it had to be replaced. I updated my original post with my successful outcome. Thanks for commenting.


#25

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

ddbtdd said:
Why would you need to remove the pulley to replace the belt? If you push in the brake and then lock down your parking brake, there should be enough slack in the belt for it to come off. I've been there and done that.
Click to expand...
Not on this model. The belt will in fact have slack using your method but there are guides that are part of the frame that won't allow the belt to be removed (very small gap). Additionally, my pulley was bent so it had to be replaced. I updated my original post on what was successful and a potential work around (unbolting the engine) if the pulley is still in serviceable condition. Thanks for commenting.


#26

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

Steven65 said:
You talking the electric clutch! I do know you know enough to remove that bolt up inside. Before you take bolt all the way out, Hit on wrench etc and push down on pully at top with whatever u can find. Wood is good lol. Mine will pop down everytime.
Click to expand...
No, the pulley is above the electric clutch. The clutch came off easy. I've updated my original post with what worked for me. Thanks for commenting.


#27

L

LMPPLUS

If you can a replacement pulley take an grinder and cut thru the belt portion of the pulley and finish it off with a dremel type tool.


#28

F

Freddie21

Unbolting the engine is easy. 4 bolts then just slide the engine back. No need to disconnect anything. When reinstalling the bolts.\, you can usually see where the engine sat and the hole line up easy. If the pulleys don't fall off, this is the method I use.


#29

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

Freddie21 said:
Unbolting the engine is easy. 4 bolts then just slide the engine back. No need to disconnect anything. When reinstalling the bolts.\, you can usually see where the engine sat and the hole line up easy. If the pulleys don't fall off, this is the method I use.
Click to expand...
Yep, definitely the method I'd recommend too. My drive pulley was bent so it had to be replaced. I ended up using a 3 jaw puller and then added copious amount of anti seize on the new pulley to prevent this in the future. Thanks for commenting.


#30

G

gbrewer

CubbyCommando said:
Hi All,

Trying to get this engine pulley off so I can replace the drive belt and that sucker is stuck on there pretty good. Any tips on how to remove? I've been trying with a 3 jaw puller but am afraid I'll bend the pulley.

Model
CC XT2 131QA1CQ010


View attachment 69900
Click to expand...
Tiger Small Engine said:
Since you probably don’t have a couple weeks, put the puller on it and destroy the pulley and install new one. Can also use an air hammer to help remove pulley. Option two, bend the tabs, install belt, bend tabs back into place. The “hacks” bend the tabs and don’t bend them back into place.
Click to expand...
When all else is said and done-- get out the sawsall with a good metal blade and cut the thing off. I've had to do this with a stuck wheel and axle on a MTD GT1846. Heat will damage the main shaft seal. One cut will usually do the job. If you score the main shaft, use emory cloth to smooth it. Put the new pully on with anti-seize compound. This is a lot easier than pulling the engine and replacing the main seal. GOOD LUCK!!!


#31

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

Hammermechanicman said:
I have done a bunch of these types by MTD. Do yourself a favor and unbolt the engine. If you heat it enough to get it off you will probably damage the lower seal. The hacks will bend the 3 belt guides but that just proves they are hacks. The pulley is paper thin so any prying ruins them. MTD uses that same crap pulley and stamped guides on lots of different makes and models. If you have already buggered the pulley be prepared to remove the engine to get it off. I did one last year where the pulley was worn out and needed changed. Wound up removing the engine and drilling a series of holes in a line and the splitting it off with a chisel along the holes. Broke a thread rod on a bearing separator trying to get it off.
Click to expand...
Our record was 13 hours getting one off - a double stack with manual pto. when we get a drive belt replacement requesting a quote I exclude the pulley removal.


#32

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

I charge by the hour and i don't give estimates on belt changes.


#33

G

gbrewer

Get the sawsall. Cut through to the main shaft; go 180 degrees and cut again. seperate from the shaft, clean shaft, apply new pully using anti-seize. Heating will damage the shaft seal.
This is easier than pulling the engine or replacing the shaft seal.


#34

R

RayMcD

Kroil penetrating oil - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=kroil+pe...7bdc0bd834&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_82o56nxmn3_e


#35

StarTech

StarTech

I don't a lot of time on removing stuck on pulley. Just go ahead and destroy them if necessary and replace them. The costs involved is not worth it to save every one.

Penetrating are fine if they actually can get in there and loosen things but most just don't work as advertise. If I ever find one that works I will stick with it.


#36

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Next time i have one of those MTD pulleys that has never been off for 15 years i will have one of the folks on here just pop it off for me. LOL


#37

CubbyCommando

CubbyCommando

Hammermechanicman said:
Next time i have one of those MTD pulleys that has never been off for 15 years i will have one of the folks on here just pop it off for me. LOL
Click to expand...
If the pulley is still serviceable, do yourself a favor and just unbolt the engine and lift it a bit to thread on the new belt. This can be done much quicker than trying to remove the pulley. My pulley got bent trying to take it off with a 3 jaw puller so it had to be removed. If I would have taken a few extra minutes searching for solutions before mucking with it, it would have saved a lot of aggravation and the $45 cost of a new pulley. Don't be like me, ha ha!


#38

StarTech

StarTech

CubbyCommando said:
If the pulley is still serviceable, do yourself a favor and just unbolt the engine and lift it a bit to thread on the new belt. This can be done much quicker than trying to remove the pulley. My pulley got bent trying to take it off with a 3 jaw puller so it had to be removed. If I would have taken a few extra minutes searching for solutions before mucking with it, it would have saved a lot of aggravation and the $45 cost of a new pulley. Don't be like me, ha ha!
Click to expand...
I take you have learned your lesson...:p

Hindsight is usually 20/20. Just wish we don't have learn that way sometimes. It is always better to ask even you think the question stupid as personally I rather look stupid than being stupid. persay. And believe me I have ask some pretty dumb sounding questions but I truly didn't know answer and it has kept me out trouble multiple times.


#39

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

CubbyCommando said:
If the pulley is still serviceable, do yourself a favor and just unbolt the engine and lift it a bit to thread on the new belt. This can be done much quicker than trying to remove the pulley. My pulley got bent trying to take it off with a 3 jaw puller so it had to be removed. If I would have taken a few extra minutes searching for solutions before mucking with it, it would have saved a lot of aggravation and the $45 cost of a new pulley. Don't be like me, ha ha!
Click to expand...
See post #8


#40

R

rhkraft

One more thing to try is after the penetrating oil, is to put the puller on the pulley with just enough pull to keep from bending the pulley. FIRST thread a bolt into the shaft, one long enough to hit bottom to protect the threads. The tap the bolt head with a hammer. The bolt will protect the shaft from damage. Do I have experience? I once pulled the bull sprocket from a 1942 Bucyrus-Erie drag-line. I had to borrow a heavy duty hydraulic puller from the US Army. We hid under the dragline as I pumped the puller to 5000 psi before it popped. We hid the under the dragline after reaching 1000 psi, but when it popped it was just a little dink that moved the sprocket about a quarter inch, but it was free!


#41

R

RevB

rhkraft said:
One more thing to try is after the penetrating oil, is to put the puller on the pulley with just enough pull to keep from bending the pulley. FIRST thread a bolt into the shaft, one long enough to hit bottom to protect the threads. The tap the bolt head with a hammer. The bolt will protect the shaft from damage. Do I have experience? I once pulled the bull sprocket from a 1942 Bucyrus-Erie drag-line. I had to borrow a heavy duty hydraulic puller from the US Army. We hid under the dragline as I pumped the puller to 5000 psi before it popped. We hid the under the dragline after reaching 1000 psi, but when it popped it was just a little dink that moved the sprocket about a quarter inch, but it was free!
Click to expand...
In the snowmobile world, to get a clutch off a tapered shaft would have you turn the sled on its side with the clutch up and center bolt removed. Fill the cavity with oil about 7/8ths full, grease the threads of the bolt, screw it back in as tight as it will go and smack the bolt head with a small hammer. Hydraulic shock pops it off every time.

Probably wouldn't work on a:
1942 Bucyrus-Erie drag-line
Click to expand...


#42

stevestd

stevestd

Would a ball joint separator tool (or similar) assist?99175-Ball-Joint-Separator-Fork-300mm_1000x1000.jpg


#43

StarTech

StarTech

stevestd said:
Would a ball joint separator tool (or similar) assist?View attachment 70002
Click to expand...

Considering how the pulley in this case is located it would be impossible to even get that in there. Beside there is no separation to wedge that in there. Basically you use a puller and destroy the pulley when you have to in order to get it off.

Most times just unbolting the engine works as long as you haven't already damaged the pulley.


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