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Won't run unless choked!

#1

M

mekelly

I own a Porter Cable PWH2500 Pressure washer. It has a Honda GCV160 5.5 engine on it. Not sure the carb make yet.

The unit is not used much (probably 5-10 days a year) but has always had gas stabilizer in it and I drain the tank when I am done using it.

The unit starts fine when fully choked. After letting it warm up for a minute or two, I attempt to take the choke off.

The unit will run about 1/3 - 1/2 choked, but dies it I try to remove it completely. So, the unit runs, but at much less capacity (power) that it should.

I am assuming this is a carburetor problem where it's not getting enough fuel once the choke is removed and is running so lean, it stalls almost immediately.

So, several questions:

1. Does this diagnosis seems correct?
2. If so, does it need a carb rebuild or a new carb?
3. If not, what else should I be checking?

Thanks!


#2

B

bertsmobile1

You are right.
Pull the float bowl off.
It will most likley be rusty & require replacing.
Find a close fitting screwdriver ( I use a long impact bit) to go up the main jet tube abd remove the main jet
If the emulson tube does not fall out pop your finger into the carb throat and push it down.
There are a lot of small cross drilled holes that need to be cleaned out .
Ditto for the main jet.


#3

robert@honda

robert@honda

I am assuming this is a carburetor problem where it's not getting enough fuel once the choke is removed and is running so lean, it stalls almost immediately.

So, several questions:

1. Does this diagnosis seems correct?
2. If so, does it need a carb rebuild or a new carb?
3. If not, what else should I be checking?

Thanks!

You're spot-on with your troubleshooting and process. The issues you describe are classic symptoms of clogged carburetor, probably the emulsion tube or main jet. While simple enough to clean out and repair, if that doesn't solve the problem,you'll just get frustrated. I'd suggest just replacing the entire carb (they are generally < $25 brand new.

On the side of the engine block is a serial number, in the form of GXXXX-1234567. If you'll share that number with me, I'll get you the part number for a new carb. Just Google that number to find a dealer selling online.

Or, if you'd prefer to give the cleaning a try, here's a guide Honda published for their service technicians:

How to Clean a Honda Carburetor


#4

M

mekelly

Robert@honda,

Thanks for the reply!

The # is GJAEA-3471637 N5AF (I think;very hard to read the way it's punched on the block).

Also, I can't access the Honda carburetor cleaning link. When I click on it, it opens another window and asks me to log in. It doesn't like my log in; I think it's a rights problem.


#5

B

bertsmobile1

Rob also posts on My Lawn Mower Forum and you will need to join it to see saved files.

You used to be able to click links as a guest but they changed it a while back.
Not a bad group mainly conceren with restoring and collecting, good if you have older models.


#6

M

mekelly

Thanks!

I just saw where 'How to clean a Honda Carburetor" is a sticky on this forum!


#7

robert@honda

robert@honda

The # is GJAEA-3471637

That's a good number; a complete, new genuine carburetor is Honda Part Number 16100-Z0L-023, list price $15.08.

Google any part number to find a Honda Dealer selling it online, or use this link to find a Honda Dealer in your area:

Find A Honda Dealer


#8

M

mekelly

robert@honda,

Thanks!!! That certainly makes it a no brainer!

I will be getting a new carburetor!


#9

M

mekelly

Just wanted to close the loop. I did end up cleaning the carburetor because a buddy loaned me his ultrasonic cleaner. Cleaned it for 45 minutes (after removing the bowl, float, metering needle, main jet, emulsion tube, and pilot cap screw.

Read mixed reviews on using Purple Power, Simple Green, etc. as they may etch the aluminum. I ended up cleaning the parts with water and dish washing soap. The cleaner did heat the water to 145 degrees.

It was amazing what started coming out of the carburetor, clouds and clouds of debris. I rinsed the parts off with water and blew them dry with compressed air.

Reinstalled the carb with 4 new gaskets and fired it up.

Runs like a beast! Can run unchoked with no surging or stalling.

Thanks for all the help!


#10

B

bertsmobile1

Just wanted to close the loop. I did end up cleaning the carburetor because a buddy loaned me his ultrasonic cleaner. Cleaned it for 45 minutes (after removing the bowl, float, metering needle, main jet, emulsion tube, and pilot cap screw.
Read mixed reviews on using Purple Power, Simple Green, etc. as they may etch the aluminum. I ended up cleaning the parts with water and dish washing soap. The cleaner did heat the water to 145 degrees.
It was amazing what started coming out of the carburetor, clouds and clouds of debris. I rinsed the parts off with water and blew them dry with compressed air.
Reinstalled the carb with 4 new gaskets and fired it up.
Runs like a beast! Can run unchoked with no surging or stalling.
Thanks for all the help!
:drink:
Good to hear. You deserve a beer or two.
Thanks for the "fixed it post"
You can see why we groan when some one posts "cleaned the carb with carb cleaner" or "poked all the holes with wire"


#11

M

mekelly

Thanks!

Carburetors definitely tend to be more of a finesse repair rather than a 'let me hack at it, till it's better' repair!

I will say I haven't had much luck with disassembling and ultrasonically cleaning 2 stroke carburetors.

I've tried it a few times but I've always seemed to end up just buying new ones. They're so cheap, it just doesn't make sense to purchase a rebuild kit for a couple $'s less or spend a bunch of time fooling with it.


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