Wiring Problem

SS Print

Member
Joined
May 13, 2015
Threads
8
Messages
18
Hello,
I posted this in small engine forum and had so many different things going on I couldn稚 exactly describe what the heck was happening. Craftsman 48" 24 HP started out by having to charge battery about every second mowing. Approx. 2 acres. Then one day the clutch just quit. I turned off the pto switch and I could run it a little while and then turn the pto back on and clutch would run 10-20 minutes and the clutch would quit. I pushed and pulled the pto switch so much it just broke. Got another and put it on, and great it worked fine, mowed all 2 acres. Next time I went to mow the clutch quit after 20 minutes. I checked the wires to the clutch and could not get 12 volts on the meter. I put my own 12 volt switch directly from battery to clutch. Mowed about 20 minutes, quit again. At this point I知 guessing stater/alternator. With a fully charged good battery it showed 12.65 volts. Cranked motor, full RPM and it read 17.12 volts. I thought this ruled out stater/alternator but now am thinking this was too high and shows it痴 bad because now I can not get it to show anything over 12.5 volts running or not. I知 thinking it痴 bad and want to replace it but I知 wondering why I couldn稚 get 12 volts at the clutch with good battery, not running. Yes I had weight on seat, pto pulled out, key on, brake locked. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

Mike
 

Rivets

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Threads
57
Messages
14,930
Voltage is too high, post your engine numbers so we can figure out the charging system you have. With the charging system not working properly your battery may be ruined and cannot deliver enough current to power the clutch.
 

SS Print

Member
Joined
May 13, 2015
Threads
8
Messages
18
Thanks for the reply. I kinda thought it was too high and then nothing. I have a pdf book on this tractor. It's 48 inch Craftsman 917.225740. However the original 27 HP engine was replaced with a 24 HP by Sear's Repair guy so I guess to be sure I need the numbers you refer to but am unsure what/where to find them on engine. The original 27 HP had an alternator #6696458 but this 24 could be entirely different.

Thank you for you help.

Mike
 

SS Print

Member
Joined
May 13, 2015
Threads
8
Messages
18
OK Mr. Rivits,

I guess I couldn't see them because the were right in front of me:confused2: Here are the numbers: Model 44M777 Type 0118E1 Code C70510Y6

Thanks
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,815
Well it looks like you still can not see :laughing:
go to Find Your Briggs & Stratton Manual: Small Engines and type in your engine & code numbers.
Looks like the code is 0113 not 0118.
Also if you can take a photograph of the alternator wires.
Briggs code their alternators by the connector plugs so that is the easiest way to identify the different variations.
 

SS Print

Member
Joined
May 13, 2015
Threads
8
Messages
18
OK, I double checked in daylight sure enough they are 0118 E1. I went to the link (thank you very much for the tip) and they do show 0118. It looks like the difference is, like you say, in the plugs. In my manual (for the original 27 HP) it shows different voltage out puts with different plugs so I'm assuming that's why you want me to take pics of the wires?

Thanks

Mike
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,815
Well then I need glasses, or a new computer.
Yes that is why we need the photo.
There are around 40 different alternators with different outputs from different wires and most have a simple diode to rectify the output.
When you swap out motors you should always swap the alternators if the motors are not exactly the same otherwise you can end up with the exact type of problems you seem to be having,'
The alternators are mactches ( only just ) to the power requirement of the tractor so mechanical PTO mowers have a low out put alternator because they do not need to feed a hungry clutch
 

SS Print

Member
Joined
May 13, 2015
Threads
8
Messages
18
Ok, I really appreciate the info. I take it down and see what it is. I'm still not sure why I couldn't get 12 volts down to the clutch when I know the battery was putting out the 12.51. Any ideals on that?

Thanks Again

Mike
 

ILENGINE

Lawn Royalty
Joined
May 6, 2010
Threads
39
Messages
10,291
Dirty or loose connectors will cause of loss of voltage. some of those electrical connecters have a piece that is folded inside of the curled edged to help to make contact. If that piece breaks it will cause problems. You are going to need to check all the connectors from the pto switch through any relays to the pto clutch to find why you are getting a voltage drop.
 

motoman

Lawn Addict
Joined
Aug 11, 2011
Threads
66
Messages
2,576
Just examined and replaced the 2 pin connector on my 24 Intek. After 10 years the connector body was brittle, falling apart, and the mating pins badly burned/corroded, probably dropping a couple volts pushing current accross.
 
Top